Massura: Building on constructive criticism
Three years ago , I covered the German outfit Massura , who were offering a well-priced bespoke and MTM service made in Naples. However the jacket they made me had some substantial issues, which I covered in a review in the normal, honest way we do ...
Massura: Building on constructive criticism
Match in comments:
Pleasure Robin...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
Match in comments:
It depends how dark they are and how faded the jeans are - have a look yourself and see what you think perhaps...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
I'm back! Hello everyone, I hope you had a nice week in the amiable arms of Manish, and you haven't all decided he is better in every respect than me. Although even if you have, fear not - he will be writing again very soon, including the second par...
Vittorio Salino tweed jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Including the material...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
Having met the Florentine tailor Vittorio Salino last summer, I took the opportunity of being in Florence this past January to commission a jacket. I got on with Vittorio, was impressed with his outlook, and realised PS readers would be interested i...
Vittorio Salino: His philosophy, and fitting a ja...
Match in comments:
Thank you very much....
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
We covered the Korean outfit B&Tailor in some detail here at the beginning of the month. For details on them, their history and their style, please read that article. It might seem a little odd splitting things up like this, but I find it m...
B&Tailor double-breasted overcoat: Review
Match in comments:
Thanks, and sounds good...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
By Manish Puri. This article is the second in a series dealing with my personal experiences of having bespoke/MTM clothes made over the last six years. The first covered some of my tips for working with tailors, while this piece focuses on the lesso...
Manish’s five bespoke lessons: Picking cloth
Match in comments:
No problem John...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
In our voluminous Guide to Cloth series , we’ve already done an article on tweed. But that was about the history, the style and a little about the types. There was no mention of bunches. Today’s article takes on that introduction, fleshes...
The Guide to Tweed: Bunches
Match in comments:
That’s a big help as I love the Fox Tweed Dark green POW check and the some of the dark blue choices in same POW check. Nicely saturated with various colors mixed in the design. Best, Robert...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy. The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark...
The guide to hopsack (and mesh, mock leno and bas...
Match in comments:
I just received my jacket made with the same cloth. It's early days, but it's probably my favourite one to-date. I was a bit concerned that I'd made the wrong choice and that the colour would be too light, but as you say...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
I’m pleased to say that the next in our series of talks at Mortimer House will be with Oliver and Carl from Rubato, on March 31st. These events have a really nice atmosphere, with everyone milling around, browsing the products and chatting to ...
The next talk with Rubato, and pop-up shop updates
Match in comments:
There are quite significant differences. The Rubato cut is a little unusual - a little shorter, a little fuller in the chest. They also tend to use lambswool rather than cashmere, which is a little chunky, hard-wearing b...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
Long-term readers will be familiar with my passion for Hermes silk scarves, which I’ve often bought over the years as a treat, and of which I now have a small collection (nine of them, since you ask). I’ve found particular enjoyment thi...
An Hermes silk scarf with all navy
Match in comments:
Yes, that would be nice PA. Nice size for that...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
March 1 update: Rubato and Permanent Style dates confirmed as March 29 to April 1 Rubato will be launching new products, bringing almost everything to try on, and a good range to buy as well Fox will be running different on different days of their e...
PS Presents ’23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox...
Match in comments:
Hi Teo, Yes that's right, and I'll be there with them on Thursday, the first day. It will open at 10am...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
By Manish Puri In between short walks to the kitchen to restock on mince pies and watching Home Alone for the 83 rd time (this genuinely may be an understatement), the festive period offers a singular opportunity to contemplate weighty matters conce...
The Merchant Fox: All the casual jackets reviewed
Match in comments:
Not yet I'm afraid Ben, we haven't seen them in person...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
This might seem like a fairly simple question, but it comes up so often in comments that I think it’s worth answering in full here, and then directing anyone in the future to this post. The reason people ask about shoes with brown trousers, o...
What shoes should I wear with brown trousers?
Match in comments:
Strength and weather-resistance are the only ones really. I'd only go for it if weather-resistance were a big factor...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
In recent weeks I’ve been playing around with this button-through cardigan from Colhay’s. Initially I was sceptical as to whether I’d ever wear it tucked in - and afraid it was a little lightweight to wear untucked. The same fear ...
A collared cardigan under a jacket: Ciardi and Co...
Match in comments:
It is a little higher, but the same issue is there, it's not as big or as structured as a shrit collar, so is never going to behave in the same way...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
Back when these things were possible, I remember an American friend visiting in the Spring and asking: “How on earth do you dress for this weather? I can see my breath in the morning, but my midday I’m roasting and can barely wear a jack...
Layering and accessories for cold Spring days
Match in comments:
I don't think so, no. Though it's also one to think yourself - if you saw someone wearing one around where you are, would it look odd to you?...
Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos
Although Angel Ramos and I have only met a few times, we’ve always seemed to have something in common when it came to styles we liked. Angel wears slippers a lot, and has more of a tendency towards bright colours and patterns. The ov...
Both chic and bold: How to dress like Angel Ramos
Match in comments:
Yes I expect so. Certainly all perspectives valid and should be considered, but there are always many...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
Best artisan 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftesbury I decided to give my Artisan of the Year award this year to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury because, looking back on recent commissions, they have so consistently delivered on quality and v...
Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes...
Match in comments:
Amazing, so pleased Matthew. That's time, money and waste all saved!...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
A few readers asked in our recent Complete Capsule posts about the kind of navy jacket I mentioned, that would work with jeans as well as flannels. So I thought I’d shoot this example from Solito, which Luigi made me last year but which I've ...
Navy jacket and jeans (with recommended cloths)
Match in comments:
I would Ciardi, Pirozzi and Ettore de Cesare probably. The softness won't vary much, the thing to watch out for is just getting a very natural shoulder - no roping at all in the sleevehead...
Wearing black
Over the past year, I’ve gradually been wearing more black. Readers will have seen that in the recommendation of this Berg & Berg black shirt , for example, and these black cords . It's been particularly pronounced with shoes though, a...
Wearing black
Match in comments:
To be honest I'm not sure Charlie - I've never worn that style of jacket in anything other than blue denim and I think it might be a bit much for me if I did...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
On the final day of the pop-up shop back in October, it occurred to me to bring in my blue PS Oxford shirt - to show how it had softened with age. The response was telling. Half of the people that felt it bought one on the day, and several of the o...
Introducing: The white PS Oxford
Match in comments:
Hi Ayush I think that's a risk with all colours, but, I agree, the effect might be exaggerated with unusual colours because the standout more. In the example you've given, I think it's not so much the colour (which I don...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
Match in comments:
They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
Match in comments:
There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
Match in comments:
Thank you. I'm afraid that number of takes, audio and editing is a bit beyond our budget/time, but thank you for the suggestions - I'll bring them up with the team....
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
This series started as a way to highlight cloths from the hyper-seasonal collections - usually Italian - that came and went within a few months. The impulse was that readers often saw something I had had made, and asked what the cloth was - but by ...
The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2019
Match in comments:
The suit or tailoring is whether we like it or not on a decline. Many corporate offices no longer require a suit or even a blazer / jacket unless you are meeting clients. On the street suits and blazer / jackets are rare...
A guide to high-twist bunches
This is a summary and analysis of the high-twist wools available from different mills and merchants. As with the linen one we did last year, the aim is to set out most of the range so that bespoke customers know if their tailor is missing something...
A guide to high-twist bunches
Match in comments:
Yes, it would be one or other of those. The darker one would be a little bit more business-like, the other a little bit more casual/unusual. But both would be lovely. If in doubt go for the darker...
