Hopsack and similar materials are a good choice for summer blazers - sharp jackets usually made in smart colours, such as navy.
The materials don’t vary that much, even if the weaves themselves are different. A mesh in a classic menswear dark-navy won’t look that different from a hopsack in the same colour.
But there are quite a few subtleties that can trip people up. They can lead to someone getting a material really designed as a suit material rather than a jacket, for example. Or focusing too much on weaves at the expense of things like two-tone colour.
This article explains the different types of material in a simple and accessible way (there will be no weave diagrams) and then gives advice that should enable any reader to pick a good summer blazer material.
Overall, the most important thing is to concentrate on how the material looks and feels, rather than these technical details that can often pull in the nerds among us.
The dangers of hopsack
Probably the biggest issue with understanding materials is that terms with narrow meanings come to mean something bigger.
Hopsack (above two images) is a good example. It's just a name of a weave, one defined in the Weaves and Designs chapter of our Guide to Cloth. It can be woven with any yarn, worsted or woollen, in any weight and any finish.
But it has come to mean something specific: a lightweight, breathable material using a worsted merino with a fairly dry finish. To be made into an unlined or half lined jacket for warmer seasons.
This could seem academic, but it has one important effect, which is that heavier, denser hopsacks intended for suiting are sometimes used for jackets. The Oyster bunch from Harrison’s and Worsted Classics from Fox for example: both contain really beautiful hopsacks, but they’re dense and heavy (13oz and 14/15oz respectively) and are largely designed for suits.
They could be worn as jackets, as they have a little more texture than smooth twills, but for me they’re not ideal given their density and sharpness. And they’re not what most men want when they’re looking for a summer blazer.
(A side point here: these hopsacks are often what confuse conversations about ‘three-way suits’ that can be broken up - they do work as a suit, which is not what most expect, but then not so much as a jacket.)
Basket weave, mock leno and mesh
Three alternatives to hopsack are mesh (above), basket weave and mock leno. All are quite similar from a technical point of view, and indeed can overlap; they are all characterised by having two tight yarns that hold the structure together, and two that float on top.
This means they’re necessarily open and breathable, where hopsack isn’t necessarily. They also all have more depth to the structure, which can give them greater texture. But as with hopsack, this is heavily dependent on the other factors: yarn thickness, density (‘set’) and colours.
Basket weave, for example, is often made with a thicker yarn to create that basket-like texture many would expect from it. Meshes are often made with two different colours of yarn (eg a darker and a lighter blue) because the weave highlights the contrast between the two. But neither has to.
Fox Brothers has just released a meck leno that’s a dark brown with ‘rose beige’ coming through. The contrast would be more obvious in a mesh, but it’s the colour that’s the most important thing there, not the weave. Plus the ‘up twist’ on the yarn, which makes it crisper and pushes more towards suits and trousers.
How to select
Having demonstrated how complicated it can be, how do you go about picking a material for a good, simple summer blazer?
- Concentrate on weight - you want light if it’s for summer, 8-10oz
- Then on colour. For a smart navy jacket, probably the darkest navy there is
- Then two-tone: Is there more than one colour? Do you want that? If you’re unsure, avoid it
- Next texture. Is there more or less, is the yarn thicker or thinner? They’ll be small differences, but the best way to think about the weave and yarn together
- Look at density. Hold it up to the light, can you see through it? It’s a decent rule of thumb on how cool it will be
- Only then consider weave. It will help contextualise the points above, though chances are it won’t inform the decision. Whatever you do, just don’t go in saying you want only one or another (as most people do with hopsack)
What to select from
And what specific bunches should you consider? Here are the ones I’ve tried or have seen made up and can recommend directly.
- Holland & Sherry, Mesh & Hopsack Blazers
- I had a jacket in the mesh from Ettore de Cesare, and it was very good. Nine ounce, a little more texture than hopsacks. I’d go for 003 (navy) or 004 (midnight, above)
- Drapers, Montecarlo
- Very similar to the Holland & Sherry. They may indeed all be woven by VBC for different merchants - Scabal has a similar one. The weight and weave that’s closest to my vintage black-cashmere hopsack
- Loro Piana, Jackets
- A little finer and so sleeker than the English bunches. Touch more shine, touch more luxe, but still tailors well. Also a little bit lighter (8oz) and more open. My first hopsack jacket from Elia Caliendo (below).
- Fox Brothers, Fox Sport
- A little heavier (11/12oz) and tighter than the others, perhaps more for an English summer than an Italian one, but makes up really nicely. I’d go for that over the Worsted Classics, which I’d use for a suit
- Smith’s, Finmeresco (mock leno)
- The bunch Finmeresco, not the material. Most high-twist bunches designed for suits/trousers, like Finmeresco, have a jacketing section too, which here is indicated as mock leno. Again heavier (12/13oz)
If others have tried particular hopsacks, meshes or similar, please do let us know and add your experiences below in the comments. Particularly useful if you’ve tried more than one and can compare.
As to colours of jackets, I would always start with navy. If that’s too smart for you, then you might not want this category of cloth anyway as it’s a smart material. A wool/silk/linen, lightweight woollen or pure linen might be better.
I recently had a black hopsack made by Paolo Martorano (below) and while it is great, it’s not that versatile. I might well get a navy one with him soon, to replace the Ettore one that’s too small.
Good guidance on how to choose the cloth. That’s what I did intuitively some years ago, when I wanted to have my first summer jacket made. I knew it had to be below 10oz, dark navy, breathable. Only after choosing the cloth I realised it was hopsack. The weave itself is simply unimportant after you’ve correctly identified all other characteristics.
Nice to hear Robert – I almost feel from a linguistics point of view it’s how, as soon as we have a name for something, a label, that becomes the most important or prominent thing
My main reason for wearing a jacket in hot weather is so that I have something in which to carry my keys, wallet and phone. Would a light unlined fabric be suitable?
It depends on how heavy and large they are, but it can certainly be an issue with bigger and heavier things. My wallet is fine, my keys go in the change pocket of my trousers, but my phone can be a little big and heavy. But I would usually carry a bag in any case
I live in an area where it is hot and humid. I do not think there is a jacket etc. that can be worn in 90 degree plus weather comfortably. I just use my pant pockets or a filson briefcase.
This is the article I’ve been waiting for….astounding!!
Simon, you could add Dugdale – TROPICALAIR ; Standeven FESTIVAL, CAPE TOWN and BRITISH MOHAIR ….they have mesh in that bunch; Taylor & Lodge – ICONIC BUNCH.
What about Holland & Sherry – AIRESCO and I think Huddersfield Fine Worsteds FRESCOES have some mesh in those bunches.
I may be wrong with some of the above … you can correct me accordingly! I may even missed on some like Groves & Linley, some of the Italian Bunches ….Ariston, atrociously hard to obtain IMO.
So here’s my “ tuppence worth” , hope this helps!!
Hi Lindsay,
Yes we’re not running through all of the high-twist suiting bunches that have some jacket options in them, but thanks for adding those. I’m also not including bunches more designed for suiting either, or different fibres like mohair.
Loving the design of the Fox Twist label.
I have just purchased a hopsack DB dark blu navy blazer. I am still waiting to receive it because there are adjustments and button holes in progress but I am thinking of potential combinations. My feeling is that it combines very well with light flannel or cotton trousers. Not so well with light linen trousers. Do you agree ? Another question: is it a delicate fabric ?
Perhaps not the very lightest of linen, that might not keep as straight/smart a line/crease. But with a lot of linens, certainly Irish ones, in smarter colours, it would be fine. I’m wearing mine with linen trousers in the top image here, and the bottom one
On delicacy, I’d say it is a little, but similar to a lot of summer fabrics – perhaps a little more so than linen, but hardier than most wool/silk/linens
Could I ask what the linen is from the bottom image? It’s sage green right?
Your photographers do great work, and that shot just has me wanting to replicate it… (which happens quite often btw)!
Yes, and it’s 11oz Irish linen, I think W Bill but I might be wrong. I don’t have the number to hand I’m afraid
I’ve found that colour lovely to wear but not so versatile. It tends to lead the outfits a lot of time
Thank you! Great point. I was going to ask just that question … “how versatile do you find it?”
Maybe it’s the photo, but it looks just barely leading.
I mean leading as in, I have to decide an outfit based on what those trousers would go with – I have to start with those. Rather than starting with something else and finding I pick these trousers to go with it
If anyone has experience of Anglo-Italian’s House Hopsack (AIT-076) I would be grateful for your comments.
It’s a slightly inkier navy than the darkest navy Simon suggests above for a hopsack jacket, but it is definitely still dark enough to be smart. The weight feels on the heavier side at about 10 oz if I had to guess. It keeps me cool enough for summer here in New York but only just. Otherwise it’s a great weight for the rest of the seasons. I’d even wear it in winter with sufficient layering. Hope this helps.
Hi Simon. I have a winter blazer made from a hopsack from Harrison’s PB Classics bunch, which is a little heavier than Oyster. I’m very happy with it but it is too heavier for summer.
I am having a summer blazer made up now in a pretty open hopsack in the Spring Ram bunch. I started with the idea of a mock Leno from Finmeresco which I really like, but I’m concerned there is too much risk of it getting ruined. The texture is such that it could very easily get caught on a fingernail, a broken chair, etc and come unwoven. So I decided to go for the slightly heavier hopsack in Spring Ram instead.
Interesting, thanks Andrew.
I can see the concern about hopsack catching on something, but it’s not an issue I’ve ever had. It’s also less likely to show on a material like that, and could be woven back in fairly easily – a lot more than on something like a smooth worsted for instance
Hi Simon. The weave of the mock Leno I like in Finmeresco reminded me a lot of a grenadine tie, which I manage to ruin quite regularly by catching it on something. I don’t mind too much changing a tie that costs eur 100 but I would be less excited about the same happening to a jacket that costs a lot more.
I can definitely see that. I find it tends to happen more with ties, and a grenadine is more open, lighter and more fragile – you certainly couldn’t make a piece of tailoring out of it!
I went to the Merchant Fox website to check on Fox Sport cloth. They have moved the cloth side of the business to a very beautiful and pristine new website http://www.foxflannel.com. It’s a beautiful website and sample swatches are available on this site.
For another English option there’s Dugdale Bros. Tropicalair. I have the brown mock leno (below), 11.9 oz/340 grams, but in my case in an unlined jacket. I only wear separates and this is my main alternative to rotate with my navy blazer as year-round options.
It seems slightly darker and more textured in person. My impression is similar to a grenadine grossa weave.
Some interesting options in the bunch like pink, multicoloured, stripes, glen check. etc.
Link here: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/tropicalair
I just saw this (assuming bunch 4606) and loved it as a similar all seasons option similar to my Anglo Italian house hopsack in Navy. Great texture and color, how has it worn for you in the summer?
I just received my jacket made with the same cloth. It’s early days, but it’s probably my favourite one to-date. I was a bit concerned that I’d made the wrong choice and that the colour would be too light, but as you say, the texture gives it real depth. I work a lot in the Gulf and it’s slightly too heavy for use over the Summer, but let’s be honest, no one is spending time outside and this is great for keeping out the chill of the aircon.
Already planning on commissioning a second in dark navy.
Simon, you mention about breaking up a suit something we all like to do , if possible, to get maximum usage .
However, I’ve noticed that there is very little guidance of when this works best and when it never seems quite right .
For example , taking a hopsack navy suit jacket and putting it with a slim fit Incotex grey trousers often makes a middle aged man look out of proportion (to exaggerate the point think ostrich body and legs !)
I’ve been caught out by this look and now tend to mix suit jkts with different coloured suit trousers or avoid slim fit casual trousers with suit jkts .
Maybe PS could give more guidance on how to get ‘mix and match’ looks right in terms of proportion
Hi Robin,
Nice question. I think it will be fairly intuitive to most readers that a slimmer trouser probably works better with a slightly closer fitting, shorter jacket. Most of the feeling of what is right will be visual, hard to put numbers on, but it’s those two things you have to bear in mind.
It’s not really about taking a suit jacket and putting it with trousers, it’s more how that jacket is cut – if it has a different style to the trouser, it’s not going to wear together.
(I’m assuming the Incotex is a tailored wool or similar by the way. If it’s a stretch chino then that’s a whole other issue.)
(And of course there’s the issue of what suit materials work also as jackets – the answer is, very few, and they’re mostly casual ones like linen, cord and other cottons)
Hi Simon, what do you think about this cloth for a summer jacket?
I would like to avoid what you wrote about picking a cloth meant for suiting…
https://shop.dugdalebros.com/tropicalair/product/4612dug13872/colour/tropicalair_mockleno_plain_midnight/page/249/
Most things labelled as mock leno or mesh should be fine Pete. I’d still take a look and consider the points above, but you’re usually on safe ground
Simon
”the dangers of hopsack “ is such an alluring phrase.
james
Hi Simon
Highly informative piece, many thanks. Incidentally, I have just bought a mock leno hop sack blazer from Natalino which is pleasingly textured and cool in this (likely fleeting) sunny weather.
Have you published a similar article on cloth and weight either for a four season or an autumn/winter navy blazer?
Many thanks
No, not specifically David. That would cover quite a few different types of material. However, the Jackets section of the Guide to Cloth has some guidance, as do other parts of that Guide
Thank you Simon! I really love and enjoy these kind of guides about fabrics. Do you know (or any of the readers) any book about fabrics (materials and weaves) to expand the information you provide on this guides? It would be fantastic to have some kind of “fabric bible”.
Have you seen our Guide to Cloth Oscar? I haven’t seen anything else that’s as in-depth as that.
And then of course there’s our parallel one on shirt fabrics.
Hi, how’s the Rake operating now? Sorry to bring up an unrelated topic.
They’ve been trying to find a buyer for well over a year now, and still owe people a lot of money. They had one buyer lined up but that fell through recently
Hi Simon,
Congratulations on the anniversary btw.
Very timely article. Wondered if i could have your opinion on trousers to match a navy hopsack jacket i have from Thom Sweeney. It’s not the absolute darkest navy, especially in the sun but very light weight and unlined. I was thinking a lightish, warm grey similar to the Drapers trousers you have. Would you class them as light or a mid grey? Either that or a mid to light grey fresco but it might be too cold. I find Navys difficult to pair unless they are very dark but thinking more of a contrast would be better…
If it’s a dark navy, I think pretty much any shade of grey works well. If it’s a stronger blue, then yes I’d tend towards more the mid-grey and the Drapers should be good
Unless I’ve missed something, a question on lining.
I can hear the word unstructured screaming at me so let’s consider an example:- Finmeresco. Around 12/13oz …rather heavy.
What about a buggy lining or three quarters lining…or unstructured?
For a lighter weight, eg. H&S or Drapers …..maybe a half lining (buggy)?
Advice please.
Thanks
Lindsay
With something that heavy I wouldn’t bother with anything but full lining, personally. It’s not going to make much difference compared to the cloth and seems a little out of place.
You could do it unstructured, that’s more a style choice. But it would never be as sharp, so it depends what you want it for.
For a lighter weight jacket, yes usually a half lining
Many thanks
Hopsack has a special connotation in the U.S.; it served as the go-to cloth for blue blazers from Brooks and J. Press for generations, perhaps because it could be sold to thrifty Yankees as a four-season item. Any Goodwill in the American northeast has a few.
I have a mock leno blazer made by Cad & The Dandy, which came from the Fresco III book. It’s great and further reason why I’ll never own a cat.
I will get my SB navy blazer in Finmeresco Mockleno SW4143 this month, can’t wait for it!
Nice!
I got my jacket!
Nice!
Hi Jerryshao,
which clothe did you choose?
What do you think about other hopsack colours?
My basic set of jackets for a business trip in warm weather is composed of a navy hopsack blazer and a tabacco linen odd jacket. I match them usually with grey fresco or cream cotton-linen trousers. Together with loafers and some blue and white shirts are a great capsule wardrobe for warm months in southern France.
As both these jackets slowly approach their end of life, I am going to replace them with bespoke ones.
I wonder if a tabacco / mid-brown hopsack jacket could be a good solution to replace the linen one? Maybe the overall look would be similar while it would be significantly less wrinkled, which is not always a desired look in professional environment.
Hey Daniel,
I do talk about this in brief at the bottom of the piece.
My view and experience is that hopsack and similar materials are quite smart, and suit smarter colours. My black is nice but a little limited. I can perhaps see a dark brown working, but not much else. And even the dark brown, I’d probably want in a wool/silk/linen or similar fibre mix rather than a hopsack.
In your capsule, I’d go with a dark-brown jacket instead of the tobacco, as I would think that would be subtler and a better business colour than tobacco as well. I’d have it in a w/s/l or a variation like a wool/linen, as we covered (and readers helpfully contributed on) in this recent article on them.
Great article, thank you!
Here’s my experience:
I have a dark navy blazer in a mock Leno from the Fresco III bunch (Huddersfield Fine Worsteds). I was looking for something smart for work. Looks great and I love it.
I have two observations that might help other readers. First, I was humming and hawing between the navy and dark navy in the bunch. Glad I went with dark navy, even though the swatch looked almost black to me, it made up to a perfectly acceptable navy business colour. In retrospect the navy would have been too light. Second, I’ve grown to like how the material has worn in, I feel it has “broken in” to my body and hangs in a pleasant but unexpected way.
Lovely and useful experience, thanks Simon
I had one made in vitale and have to say the darkest navy they offer turned out to be too light in retrospect. Same with loro piana. Not bad overall, but darker, closer to midnight would have been better for versatility. For example i often find it doesnt work well over a dark navy polo (like adrian from Smedly), which by comparison looks black. Works better with PS polos since they are also a lighter shade of navy.
Thanks Mark
Simon, I had one made from the same section of the same book but I went for the for the navy for exactly the reason you mentioned – the dark navy swatch looked like black to me. I wish I’d gone for the dark navy instead – would have made my odd coat much more versatile.
Simon, I’m so glad you wrote this article, thank you. Contrary to what one might infer, the overall selection available on the market is actually really limited and poor. It’s for that reason that Jake at Anglo had to commission his own cloth for his blazers! Nothing to do with exclusivity, just a dearth in the market. Strange situation for such a key type of cloth, right? Any thoughts on why?!
I haven’t talked to Jake about their hopsack, JL, how is it different to the others on the market?
Ring Jacket’s Balloon Fabric
It’s a mesh weave with a dry crunchy feel. It’s been my workhorse blazer for more than 7 years in the Florida heat and humidity.
Nice, very good call Caleb
Hi Simon,
Given the intended use of the blazer is for summer (assuming warm weather, though never a guarantee in the UK) is there any reason you’d opt for one of the aforementioned fabrics over linen?
Cheers
Primarily smartness – hopsack will always look sharper than linen, and be more suited to a smarter office or similarly formal occasion
Ah understood, thanks. How do they compare in breathability in your experience?
It depends more on what the two are like within their category – as outlined above, a dense hopsack can be quite different to a quite open mesh
Simon, I’m viewing on a small screen,so forgive me, but is the Holland and Sherry midnight(004) on the blue or blacker ends of the spectrum and is it especially versatile ?
I attend smart(ish) eveningbusiness meetings, with a social element after and I imagine it would be perfect but will it work as a day colour.
Thanks in advance.
Yes, it certainly would Peter. It’s on the blacker end, but not black. As the reader above related in his experience, the darker navy is pretty much always the safer choice, certainly for a business context
Thank you. Definitely think that business casual is moving back into tailoring. Just returned from Barcelona and there seems to be a move back into smartenng up.
On a related note,my son informs that the ‘old money’ fashion is influencing young men in a positive way.
Hello Peter,
I enjoy your comments, so felt inclined to follow up on your related note. I hope Simon will forgive me posting a link outside these walls (particularly as I have an association with the publication in question) but I thought you might find this piece interesting in regards to the reinterpretation of ‘old-money’ style.
https://robbreport.com/style/old-money-aesthetic-1234739376/
Thank you .That’s really interesting. My son is one of the tiktok ‘old moniers’ and he is very well dressed. I quite enjoy the asthestic and it kinks to the Riviera style. I don’t think the quality is there -he shops at Uniqlo and Zara with better vintage pieces ,but it’s enjoyable to see young men taking an interest in style.
‘Mock leno’ is such an odd name – any idea where it came from? (Thanks…)
Leno is a particular weave, like a gauze. Mock leno is one that imitates it
Would a regular leno be too open for tailoring then?
I’ve no idea to be honest, I’ve never seen or used it
No relationship to Jay.
Hi Simon, if you don’t mind me asking, how is it that Fresco and similar works quite well as separate trousers (all shades of grey, sand, cream etc) but is difficult as a separate jacket because it looks too much like part of a suit? I think it works fine with navy in an unlined casual cut but grey would look odd immo. For trousers it doesn’t seem to matter that much at all. Is that the larger surface area or what do you think? Many thanks
Well, personally I don’t like it that much as a jacket either, but I think the reason grey is harder than navy is that it’s more obvious in grey that there is less texture and openness in the weave – it looks flatter and more suit-like. Plus the fact that you’re more used to seeing a smart navy blazer, and associate grey with a suit (unlike perhaps brown or green)
Thank you!
I think a dark brown is a good alternative to navy. Pretty versatile, too.
I have the mock leno from the Minis Fresco bunch. It is a little heavier but is nearly see through. Go for the dark navy on that one. The mock Leno has a great stretch to it as well.
useful article and nice reminder of the anniversary pop-up where I was wearing hopsack, it was great to meet you there! kind regards,
You too Neil
Hi Simon, thank you for a very informative article.
Something is mixed in my mind, on technicalities mostly. I have a db blazer in Loro Piana fabric (TVR012 fabric). I read in the info that ‘it is a hopsack structure, so called high twist wool from LP’. As i understand it, the hopsack is the weave of course and the high twist refers to the yarn. So the two can be used together to enhance the resistance to wrinkles. is that correct as i understand it? also the material looks a bit smooth, not enough structure i feel. But it is a blazer, so it is ok at the end.
Thanks!
Hi Akis,
Yes you’re right, hopsack is the weave and then the yarn can be twisted to a greater or lesser extent. Twist will give it sharpness, perhaps not as much softness, but it sounds good as a blazer
The JJ Minnis Mockleno in the Fresco bunch is the best summer blazer jacketing that I have come across. Great texture, weight, and color.
Since you asked for experiences of other hopsacks, I have a jacket made from a Cerruti bunch called Oxygen (I wore it at your 15th anniversary event). The fabric is about 8oz and made from a very airy 90/10 wool and silk blend. There is also more colour variation than the fabrics shown in this post, with different shades of blue, navy and indigo – from a distance it looks like navy with a purple undertone, which I like because I have not seen anything like it elsewhere. Given that most hopsacks lean towards the smarter end of the formality spectrum, I like that it’s a more casual hopsack. It works well with jeans and chinos, but I have also smartened it up with grey wool trousers and a tie.
The colour is difficult to capture in photos because it varies depending on the lighting but this is my best try.
Thank you Alan, that’s interesting and useful
The brown pants look amazing. Where are they from?
An old New York start-up called Panta Clothing. I don’t think they’re around anymore unfortunately. It’s a silk material
Plumped for a wool/linen mix in navy from Dormeuil a couple of years ago for the late spring/summer/early autumn and can’t fault it. Thin and light enough for the heat or Asia and Southern Europe but can be teamed up with navy sleeveless cardigan if it gets chilly in the evening. As someone else said above, a jacket in 30C + humidity is nigh on impossible but once indoors with the AC on full blast as it can be in hotel function rooms, it always helps to have something that looks elegant and you feel comfortable in.
Hi Simon,
Thank you very much for having devoted a post on this subject. To me a timely one, as I have been thinking about a new navy blazer.The one, specifically for Summer I already have, is made of the VBC mesh. Color and weight-wise, it’s lovely. Unfortunately, I’ve realized that it’s too flimsy to my taste, that is, not at all hardwearing as I would have liked it to be even as a Summer garment.
Upon reading this post, I’ve come to think that a classic hopsack would be a better option. And perhaps even one by the same VBC or another Italian Mill. At his stage however, I’m still musing over the alternative options.
John
Thanks John. If that’s the case then yes perhaps look at slightly heavier ones
Would such a fabric (navy, translucent when held up to light) be suitable for a casual non-tailored jacket, say like a 3-pocket blouson from the Armoury?
The use cases would be (1) something to wear inside the office where it is freezing while outside is 30+ degrees and I can’t wear any jacket to and from the office; and (2) while traveling as a layer on top of a t-shirt or shirt.
If it’s going over a T-shirt, personally I’d go for something not quite so smart
Thanks. So you are saying, if you had to pick one material to fit all three of (1) extreme Hong Kong summer, (2) office wear in lieu of a sports jacket, to be worn with wool trousers, and (3) potential use in casual wear while traveling, it would not be hopsack?
Probably not, but then I can’t think of another material that would both be smart enough for a smart office and be wearable with T-shirts
Very much a fan of a Fox Air cloth. Had a dark navy suit made a few years ago. It has all the formality but the coolness is much better than any alternative during hot days (which is increasingly most of the summer months). Also, the trousers retain their crease for much longer than a standard worsted.
Thank you for this. I tend to run very hot, so want something as light and breathable as possible for a smart navy blazer for the office. sounds like your loro piana recommendation might be the one as its lightest from your list and very porous. any other you’re aware of that compare well? do you have any knowledge/experience of the Anthology featherweight jackets? i believe they have an in-house wool/mohair mix hopsack fabric.
No sorry, but yes I think something like that LP would be very good
I recently found a quite open hopsack weave collection (around 4 colors) from Dormeuil. Around 54% Wool and 46% Linen. I was quite amazed at how open so just wanted to share.
Perhaps you and others would like to take a look at it. From Dormeuil’s Hamptons Collection Traceable Wool Linen Jacket Collection. Ref 417600 for the Navy. They also have Green and Cream if I remember correctly.
Thank you Kevin. Sounds like a nice fibre mix
Thanks for putting this together, Simon! Very helpful!
Hi Simon,
Is the fox brother meck leno mentioned in this article suitable for three-way suits?
In addition, the production of this product has been discontinued. Is there any substitute product?
Big Thanks
Best Regard
Hi,
No, as mentioned mock leno is really a jacketing version of the high twists for suiting.
But your article mentions
“ Fox Brothers has just released a meck leno that’s a dark brown with ‘rose beige’ coming through. The contrast would be more obvious in a mesh, but it’s the colour that’s the most important thing there, not the weave. Plus the ‘up twist’ on the yarn, which makes it crisper and pushes more towards suits and trousers.”
so I’m not so sure.
Thanks
Yes, that is more twisted which makes it easier to wear as a suit or trouser. But in general mock leno is more for jackets.
Hi Simon, why Italian tailors like to use vintage fabrics?
Sorry Edward, have I suggested somewhere that they do, more than others?
Hi Simon,
I’m a little late to this particular post but hope that you and some of your other readers see this comment as I need to ask your advice, if I may.
Bryceland’s has recently launched their Easy Jacket in a heavy, 18oz hopsack linen from Fox Brothers. It’s available in a beautiful tobacco brown colour here: https://brycelandsco.co.uk/products/bryceland-s-easy-jacket-brown-linen
It’s a beautiful fabric but I’ve no experience of such heavyweight cloths in terms of jackets. My question is, how suitable would this jacket be for autumn as well as spring (I assumed it’ll be too heavy for summer!) And do you have thoughts on the shirt cuffs. Again, I’ve not worn a jacket such as this one with such cuffs.
I suppose I’m interested in how the fabric of the jacket might wear and age and, as I say, how practical it is for wearing in the coming seasons whether alone or under a thick balmacaan coat in winter.
With thanks and best wishes,
J
I was actually trying it this morning JP. The material is beautiful and softens up nicely. It would be good for autumn with a knit underneath, yes.
My only hesitation would be the dropped, slightly larger collar style and big breast pocket, which make it more unusual/distinctive
Hi Simon,
Thanks so much for this. Did you mean you were trying the Bryceland’s Easy Jacket this morning? I don’t meant to appear dense, am just unsure if you meant that you were trying the actual jacket or a different hopsack one!
That’s interesting about the collar and big pocket. I’ll be sure to see how they look when I try it!
Thanks again for your help so far, I appreciate it.
J
I was, yes, trying it in their shop.
No worries, hope it helps.
Simon, I presume the Easy Jacket in 18oz hopsack linen should be wearable with jeans, given its heavy weight and texture. Would you agree or was it still too crisp?
No I think it would be, yes
Great article! Unclear on what fabric is used in each picture. Is there anyway that you could clarify which fabric/s (mill, book, code) is used in each picture.
Oh, and a recommendation for a future articles:
Hey Jonathan,
Thank you, that’s very helpful. To be honest there are a few things like this that I could do more if I had a bigger team, but as it’s just me it’s hard to do all of them. The captions is a good point, though for some reason this never looks nice in the design. Nevertheless, I’ll try and find a way to do it better.
On the cloth codes, I tend not to include these because within two or three years the cloths have usually ceased to be available. The DB navy blazer shown here will certainly not have the cloth available any more.
Cavour is offering what they call a winter hopsack. Do you think its a fabric that would be suitable for winter in a heavier weight? Not necessarily in terms of warmth but in terms of working with fabrics like flannel.
It could certainly work with flannel, yes. I wouldn’t necessarily want it for colder weather though, as you say
Hi Simon,
Been thinking about commissioning a navy single breasted peak lapel jacket with golden buttons in mesh. I got several high twist navy suits to work as separates, which is why I wanted to get sth slightly unusual. Would like to heard your thought. Cheers
I wouldn’t wear that myself, as I prefer something subtler, but if you want to be a little.more showy or trad, it can certainly look good
Hey Simon. Very nice article. I have a jacket I’ve had for a few years using what was advertised as a thornproof hopsack cloth from Lovat mills. It’s a fantastic jacket thats really great for the winter and fall.
Lately I’ve been looking to get a similar jacket made from the same type of fabric but in a lighter color, but the original jacket looks like its no longer being made, and whenever I search for thornproof hopsack cloth my results come up empty. I’m honestly not even sure if there is a difference between thornproof hopsack and regular hopsack at this point! Any recommendations?
I’m afraid not, sorry Mark. But hopsack is a technical description of a weave structure, Thornproof is a brand name. There may be ones with that weave, I don’t know the bunch well enough to say
Hey Simon, I was just curious, have you ever come across a wool cashmere silk blend mock Leno? Perhaps your cashmere blend mock Leno from paolo comes close – how does it breathe?
I’m not sure, I can’t recall one. The cashmere one I have breathes well, because it’s still open, but the cashmere element does make it a little warmer. It’s not as much a high-summer piece
This is a wool cashmere silk blend (photo attached). I think it’d breathe well right? And it wouldn’t provide much in terms of warmth.
I’m trying to find a nice spring / summer blue jacket fabric.
Yes, that looks very breathable
What’s your opinion of the custom clothes from Alan Flusser Custom Simon? Have you ever tried custom tailoring from there?
Is custom the same or different from bespoke?
I haven’t tried it, so not much I can say I’m afraid.
Custom is a term you only really get in the US, but it usually means MTM rather than bespoke. Sometimes people refer to benchmade for real bespoke
Hi Simon, I was wondering if lightweight cloths generally appear less smart than heavier ones?
Many thanks,
Jack
No Jack, it depends entirely on the yarn (rough, smooth etc), the weave and the colour/pattern
Hi Simon-
I have a few navy blazers but none are perfect. I have one in Fresco Lite (part of a “blazer suit” but it is a little too smooth to be versatile with casual wear) and one from P. Johnson in Hardy Minnis Mock Leno (great cloth that has enough texture for summer or winter in LA, and never creases, but is a little heavy for truly hot weather).
I’m looking to upgrade with my current tailor Solito, and I’m considering Anglo’s AIT 076, which at 10oz/280g they describe as “marled and matte… light and open enough to be worn in summer, and textured enough to pair well with corduroy and flannel alike.”
Just checking in to see if you had any experience with the AIT cloth, or had any other recent recommendations for great fabrics for a warm weather navy jacket. Thanks, Simon.
I haven’t any experience with it I’m afraid, no. My favourite would probably still be the H&S mesh