Introducing: The Art du Lin Harrington

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A particular linen developed by Solbiati has generated a fair bit of buzz in the last couple of years. Finished with a matte effect and washed to give it an unusually soft feel, ‘Art du Lin’ has become popular with a lot of people who don’t naturally take to linen. 

I tried it first in a pair of dark-brown trousers, pictured here. I’m now having a jacket made up with Sartoria Pirozzi to complete the suit. The Anthology did a whole lookbook around it called ‘sueded linen’. 

I can see why suede is used as a reference. The material has more surface texture than regular linen, and the colours are soft and muted, much like suede. It also doesn’t form hard wrinkles and drapes beautifully as a result. 

The flip side is that it doesn’t hold a sharp crease. But that’s a plus for using it in a piece like our Linen Harrington, which is why I decided to use that same dark, dusty brown colourway in this year’s version of the jacket, which is on sale now. The navy from last year has also been restocked

The muted shade of the brown actually means it slots naturally into the ‘cold colour’ wardrobe we’ve discussed a few times in the past. It is not a warm brown, and so it's particularly nice with colours like stone, beige, black and grey. 

In the pictures here I’ve shown it with soft blacks: a PS T-shirt, which is such a soft, washed black that some people think it’s green at first; and Bryceland’s jeans, which are now approaching charcoal after several washes. 

But it’s also good with more regular colours of denim, like lighter blues and darker indigo. And with a white linen shirt and a pair of khaki chinos. 

The point of the Linen Harrington, of course, was to make a real summer jacket - something for the warmest of weather - that was sportier than something like the Linen Overshirt

The linen makes it cool, and it has ingenious ventilation between the two panels of the back (below). It sits tightly on the waist, with a lot of drape in the back that helps airflow as well as being flattering (see image above). 

But it can be worn open, and this year we’ve reduced the length slightly (2.5cm) so it is a little shorter when worn that way. 

We’ve also made a change to the internal pockets, moving down and enlarging one of them following reader feedback, so there’s more space for a larger wallet or phone.

Both the navy and the brown are made by Private White VC in Manchester, and have distinctive copper rivets on the back of the neck. We prefer gun-metal hardware elsewhere, and this is used for the delicate teardrop-puller on the zip. 

Both linens are made by Solbiati (part of Loro Piana), so the highest quality for something of this weight (as well as taste - the area Loro Piana always excels on). The Art du Lin is more expensive though, which is reflected in the end price.

Both colours are also good for summer, but the brown has less of a pure-summer look and so could be worn transitionally - in Spring and Autumn, perhaps with a fine knit. 

Other aspects I like are the fact the sleeves have a placket and button, so they can be rolled back like a shirt if you want to. And the fact the elastic is only in two panels at the back, leaving the front clean and more elegant.

You can read all about the design - including the Hermes and vintage pieces that inspired it - on the original article here.

Other shop updates

We’re trying to reduce the number of articles on PS that cover products (or at least keep them the same, even while the number of products increases). I don’t want product updates and events to swamp the editorial. 

So recent restocks to the Finest Polo, Linen Overshirt and Reversible Bomber (with new colours in each), have largely been communicated by email. If you want to make sure you don’t miss out on these, I suggest signing up to the Shop Update newsletter

If you already subscribe to other newsletters, you will have to update your preferences via a message sent to your inbox. Apologies this is a bit of a fuss - it’s just how Mailchimp works. 

Here are the product updates from the past few weeks that haven’t been included on the website:


The Dartmoor

This ultrafine merino collared knit, made to sit well under a jacket, was restocked yesterday in mid-grey and cream (above). Unfortunately there was a mistake with the charcoal order and we got mid-grey instead, but I know plenty of readers were waiting for that as much as the charcoal.

The Finest Crewneck

The partner to the Dartmoor, made in the same cashmere-like merino but of course higher performing than cashmere. This was restocked yesterday in navy and grey.

Reversible Suede Bomber

The button-up suede jacket, made to reverse to a water-resistant option, was restocked two weeks ago. It is still in the original brown, but a new navy was added (below). The navy is not quite as dark as a traditional blazer colour, which makes it feel a little sportier. 

Linen Overshirt

The most popular product over the past couple of years. It was restocked in navy, brown, black and pale olive, plus a new tobacco. We ordered a lot, so these will be good for the rest of the summer hopefully. 

Finest Polo

This super-cool merino polo, with a collar made to sit well under tailoring, was restocked at the beginning of the month. We brought back the navy and the cream, and added a dark brown (below). Most of the former have sold out, but we have reordered and expect them in July. 

Other updates:

Oxford shirts and cloth - Restocked in white, blue, blue striped, green striped and pink striped. Available now

Suede overshirt - Coming next week

Undershirts - Coming next week

Shorts - Coming next week

T-shirts - Later this month

Chambray and denim shirts - Later this month

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Nice looking.

Will the undershirt be the same as the one feom Hamilton & Hare (that closed down)?

What colors will the t-shirts be in?


I think I was unclear. I wondered about the color for the regular taped t-shirt. Not the undershirt color.


Forgive me for beating a dead horse with this topic but were you able to get a sample in grey for your consideration (or personal use)?


Good morning Simon,
If you could avoid releasing new items in the same week as Rubato my wallet would be very grateful!
In all seriousness now, Is the fabric similar to that of the new Anthology sueded suit?
Just on sizing, assume you’re wearing a medium? It looks slightly snug in the shoulders. Could you and do you ever wear a L?


Great thanks.
Also, a question on the overshirt sizing.
During my recent appointment with Luca i tried on an overshirt he had as a sample and the medium fitted perfectly – he said the overshirts for PS are the standard pattern from his shirts and just wanted to check that is definitely the case before ordering.


Hello Simon,

Want to ask further about the shrinkage on the Linen PS Overshirt.

I bought a navy in size small since it was first launch a few years back. The sizing is good although a bit longer on body and sleeve length will make it even better.

But after machine washed for a few times, it is now obviously short on both body length and sleeve length but still ok in term of shoulder and body width.

I like the texture and design so much and deciding to order another navy buy in size medium this time. I believe the length for a post- shrunk size medium will be a good fit but worry the shoulder and body width will be too big even after shrinkage.

May I seek your view?

Thank you so much.



Thanks for your views.

Separately, didn’t see you mention the restock date of the Friday polo? Is it restocking any time soon?



Hello Simon,
A follow up question on the PS Overshirt.
Understood you are size medium for Overshirt, but did you ever tried a size Large? Do you think it looks equally good for wearing it slightly oversized?


Is there a picture of you wearing size L? I think we have a similar build, but I tend to go up a size.


Chris, I feel your pain. Thanks to coinciding PS and Rubato releases, my wallet has now checked into rehab.


Hi Simon, hope you’ve been well. The new Harrington looks great, my wardrobe is slowly but surely filling up with PS items. Just wanted to ask, is this shade of brown the same as the AI trousers linked below? If so, would you say that navy would pair well with this jacket/trousers given that its a cold shade of brown? cheers


I hate the hassle of returns and always try-on a new garment before buying. Will there be another opportunity to try on PS summer merchandise, such as a pop-up shop, in the near future? It would be great if you could organise one in partnership with Private White VC as the brand’s London store is greatly missed.


Hi Simon,
A good looking and functional jacket. Well done.
On a completely different subject. The Photographers Gallery is a short walk from the Fitzrophia workspace you sometimes use – it’s just off Oxford Street.
The Bert Hardy “Photojournalism War and Peace” exhibition is worth a look. A small and well curated exhibition.
Link below if you or readers are interested.


Interesting how Solbiati linen gets so much attraction. I can certainly understand why yet I find that it’s a bit iffy, as it looks neither linen nor suede, not as cool as classic linen and nowhere near looks as luxurious as suede.

On a side note, are you hoping to wear your Sartoria Pirozzi jacket with jeans as you did with the Harrington?


I live in warm climate. Maybe a strange comparison, whether finest crewneck or cotton sweater do you think will have more usage in the warmer months? Thanks


I have an Armoury / Ascot Chang blouson in the Solbiati Art du Lin, and it’s really an amazing cloth. Very drapey due to the 400+g weight, dry to the touch, somewhat more crease resistant than other linen fabrics, and performs well as a summer material.

However, I don’t think it looks or feels anything like suede leather. In fact I’m comparing my blouson versus a suede leather jacket and a pair of suede shoes, and I don’t see anything similar. As long as you don’t have the expectation that the cloth will look like or behave like suede, I think this is a fantastic option for summer (and, where I live, transitional weather as well).


Hiya Simon,

I’ve been wearing my PS/Speciale jumpers often and am on the lookout for similar jumpers in “cold wardrobe” colours. Rubato have some in their nonpareil range.

The issue is the smalls (in Rubato) all sit well on my shoulder etc but are slightly too long in the body in comparison to my Speciale ones. Apparently the Rubato jumpers will shrink slightly after the first wash. My conundrum is whether to size down in the hope of a slightly better fit with the acknowledgement that the cotton will stretch out where needed over time or stick with the small and hope that the first wash reduces the length sufficiently to my liking. Thoughts?

Conversely, when looking for some knit t-shirts I am looking at XL in the anthology supima t-shirts so that the shoulder seam is on my shoulder. It seems incongruous that they don’t in comparison to my PS t-shirts (in which I am size medium). Are those style of knit ts not meant to sit on the shoulder as a shirt and others would?



“I don’t want product updates and events to swamp the editorial.”. I appreciate this. Even though I enjoy reading about the PS products and their development processes, in the last year or so I have felt that they often replace the regular articles that I enjoy even more.


I must be minority.. I like most product articles. They are one of few “ads” that doesn’t sound like “hey I was paid to advertise this so I’m just looking at it instead of actually wearing it”. And I often get nice ideas to try even if sometimes I don’t understand the product or just can’t afford it.


I think it’s good that you dont write articles with just shop updates. But I think that new colors actually benefits from new articles. Or a bit longer texts in the Shop Update Newsletter. New colors for the overshirts and polos can create new combinations (like the cold color wardrobe) and so on. That kind of texts is something that at least I appreciate.


Hey Simon, would you be able to provide the bicep dimension on the tapered T? Last year I ordered a large and it was skin tight! Unfortunately when I went to return the extra large was not available. This year I’d like to get it right from the beginning instead of returning.

Would you mind me asking how much space you have between your arm and the sleeve, or may be recommended for a nice fit, not too loose and not too tight – the PS way!

Lastly, could you please remind me what short of shrinkage is expected with a warm wash, and if a delicate dry is advised against or is fine, or if I can calculate any shrinkage from drying in to my size choice.

Many questions I know but you’re response is appreciated!


Ah gotcha. great to know on the shrinkage.
looking forward to the bicep info, thanks!


Really appreciate the follow up Simon! May I ask what size the 19cm corresponds to?

Also since I forgot to dig deeper when you first responded, why wouldn’t you Tumble do the T? I’m running out of perches to hang dry!


Understood on the shrinkage.

On the size opening, I know we’re talking about the sleeve opening. I meant what size (medium, large, x large, etc) the 19cm you provided corresponded to.

I understand that it should go up 0.5cm in increasing sizes, just trying to figure out where the baseline is, you know.

Thanks man


The joys of texting! Lol thanks Simon


Hi Simon, when will the Friday polos be restocked?


Hi Simon: Could you please add a close up of the mid grey knit wear ( Dartmoor). Thanks


Hi Simon : As that was posted a while back i cannot tell if that is a charcoal grey or a mid grey? Anything closer would be appreciated. Thanks again


Re: the charcoal Dartmoor, when will that restock? Many thanks.


i also prefer the normal linen 🙂 still the jacket making is perfect in my eyes!


Simon – did not see the Friday Polo mentioned in the shop update, so just wanted to ask if you were still expecting a restock this month?



Simon executes a descente des escaliers in his art du lin.

The humble Harrington in finest threads; very nice.


If this version had been available at the initial launch of the linen harrington, I probably would have purchased it instead. But I am quite happy with the navy linen that I picked up two years ago. it has served me quite well. I wear it pretty regularly and I am far from precious with it, and yet it has held up. I have only had it cleaned once, and it looks as good as new.

Shawn Adkins

Hey Ross! How did you size the Linen Harrington? I’m torn between a small and medium. I’m 5’10, 155lbs, 38” chest. Normally wear a size 3 at Private White.


Hi Simon,
Question about sizing, I see the new brown version has a 2.5cm decreased back length, are any of the other measurements different on this version compared to the original? Also wondering if the new stock of the navy version also has the new measurements or still reflects the older measurements? Thanks!

Rupesh Bhindi

Hi Simon,

What size do you wear in the brown linen style jacket?



Where did you get the jacket from? Thank you very much! GG


As an owner of the Navy I was looking forward to this release. Received the brown today and am really impressed (as expected).

What’s great about PS is being introduced to new fabrics such as this which would otherwise have passed me by.
The linen definitely feels heavier than that of the Navy and therefore as noted would seem naturally to suit a more Spring/Autumn transitional piece alongside the colder tone.

Look forward to getting lots of wear in and seeing how it slots into what I gravitate to from day to day. I’ve never really established here in the UK whether I dress more cold than I do warm and suspect this is the case, making this a great addition.


Just received my Art du Lin Harrington. Although I had already tried it on in the recent pop-up shop, I can confirm that it is a wonderful jacket. The linen especially has a luxurious and substantial feel, which I think is particularly relevant in an unlined jacket of this nature. Looking forward to wearing it out in the sun today! Thanks for coming up with yet another great product and for arranging the drinks last night, Simon. It was lovely to see you and others there.


Does the new Dartmoor use the same pattern as the Finest Polo? I received the delivery of my Finest Polo, and I have found that the collar’s circumference is a bit smaller than expected as fastening the top button makes it a bit tight on the neck. Although I would never really fasten the top button, I was wondering if Dartmoor’s collar would have some extra room or not.


Thanks, Simon.

Also, is it by design for the Finest Polo’s ribbing to not snap/hug the waist firmly? The ribbing seems to grip my waist very, very softly, which is a different feeling than I am used with my other knitwear. Therefore, I am trying to understand how should the ribbing of a knitwear clench to the waist.

Matt L

No plans yet to bring back the plain pink and yellow oxford cloth? I’m a little bit disappointed. I like my yellow shirt and would like another one, and I never got a chance to get a pink.


Will the chambray fabric also be restocked?


The navy linen Harrington is one of the most functional and beautiful casual items I own and I wear it year round (Sydney climate lends itself to lighter outerwear). Fabric and proportions are perfect. Can’t wait to receive this version.


Hey Simon

Regarding art du lin as a sports jacket choice, do you think the cloth (as per the anthology’s sueded linen) can work as a separate jacket, to be worn with jeans and chino’s as well as high twists etc? Or do you think it’s too refined to work?


Suspected you would say that! I’ve seen pictures of it worn with jeans. The fact I puzzled over them as to whether or not it worked probably suggested that it didn’t for me. I guess it’s the smooth lack of texture that makes it seem that much more formal than other linens


Do you think a dark olive would be similarly versatile as the brown or blue, regarding wearing with jeans?

Final question for you regarding Art du Lin – and linen more generally! – do you think pairing, say, an olive art du lin sports jacket, with a different colour of linen of trousers, would simply look like a mismatched suit? I’d never ask the question about other cloths, like cavalry twill, or flannel, but something about linen seems it might be more forgiving of that kind of pairing?


Ah sorry I don’t think my question was very clear!

I mean would you ever consider pairing say, an art du lin sports jacket with a pair of linen trousers in a different colour?


Hi Simon I am quite sure you adressed this but could not find it : is the weight similar to the navy iteration?


Question on the styling here – why do most of the shots have you wearing the jacket with the zip only done up a quarter of the way? It strikes me as a bit odd, and reminiscent of those deviants who only do up the bottom button of a blazer…


James Dean wore his jacket that way for the film stills for Rebel Without a Cause and Natalie Wood didn’t complain, so…
though, Dean’s character was more a delinquent than a deviant, if ever there was a distinction without a difference.

Michael K

Dear Simon,
These Harringtons look fantastic and as a very satisfied owner of the PS waxed walker, I’m looking forward to trying out this new collaboration. On a Private White related note, though, I’m just finishing up a hiking trip and the Arcteryx waterproof shell I’ve had for thirteen years has finally expired. When I got it, the brand was seriously performance focused, but by all accounts, it has now become a pricey fashion label and the cuts have certainly changed. I’m wondering if you or any of the PS community has had experience with the Private White ventile products? The Pendlebury looks like a slightly more tailored version of what a high-performance synthetic shell jacket should be. I’ve dug around some of the Japanese outdoors brands and nothing seems as good a match of form and function, while even in outdoor orientated places in the Austrian and Italian Alps, where there used to be serious hiking shops, it now seems as if everything is either generic muck (Jack Wolfskin, North Face) or unflattering but more or less serviceable (Patagonia) alternatives. Would love to hear from any and all.

Thanks, Michael

Michael K

Thanks, Simon, very helpful re Ventile. Sounds perfect for rambles, but not for real performance situations. And for rambles, I have my Waxed Walker.

Evatt Gibson

Hi Michael, you could try Hilltrek. A Scottish brand, made in Scotland, that makes technical Ventile clothing.

Jason H

Hi Micheal, I’ve just bought a Thurdark Aigis shell.
I haven’t used it in anger yet so can’t comment on its abilities , but it’s well made uses Event fabric, and the company seems highly regarded.
It’s not cheap , but worth a look👍🏻

Michael K

Thanks so much, Jason. I’ll check out the brand, which is new to me.


Hey Michael!
In my opinion, cotton is a great material for a hiking jacket. It is quiet and comfortable, it breathes very well, it is windproof, it is superb in sub-zero temperatures, it ages well, and it is stylish. Furthermore, some densly woven cottons (like ventile) and some treated cottons (whether dry or wet wax) are fairly showerproof. The downsides are probably that you will get wet if you are outside for suspended periods of heavy rain, that they get heavy when wet, and that they take a realtively long time to dry.
I have had and still have several syntetic technical hiking jackets. Although I try to follow the care instructions, it is my experience that the performance of the jackets often deteriorate quite quickly, and that you relatively swiftly end up with the worst of both worlds: A ratteling and poorly breathing jacket which leaks and in which you don’t look stylish at all.
Although I live in a wet climate in Scandinavia, I probably prefer cotton jackets 90% of the time. I only use a syntetic waterproof if it is raining heavily and have a lightweight one in spare in the sac on longer hikes over several days and in other situations where the weather cannot be anticipated.
Personally, I find the Private White VC jackets a bit too smart for hiking. Their care instructions also prohibit washing, which I find difficult for a jacket that you may use in a muddy place or by the camp fire eating something greasy. However, there are lots of outdoor brands doing jackets in the same materials. See for example and A more sartorial alternative might be Yarmouth Oilskins. Their Hooded Smock ( might be described as a shell jacket (or anorak), and if they were ever to make their beautiful Champion Jacket ( in an unpadded/unlined shell version, I would purchase it immediately.
Good luck with your search!


Hi Simon, were the measurements changed on the new oxford shirts? I just got a new one, and the sleeve and body lengths are very clearly a couple centimeters longer than my older shirts (which I personally am a fan of, the sleeves were a touch short before), but the measurements listed on the shop page haven’t changed.


Hi Simon, In regards to the mention of “cold” brown- do you think the brown linen overshirt is skewed more “warm” brown? To my eye, mine has a greenish cast making it difficult to pair with some colder colors, like a dark petrol. Perhaps its still in the cold category but just doesn’t work with some other cold colors? Thanks


Hi Simon, I guess you are wearing the Harrington in a size 4 medium? Have you tried a 5 large as well and would it do for you or is it just too big? Thanks


Hey Simon,
I’m a size M in Finest Polo and Crewneck for sure. Should I order a size M for the Art Du Lin Harrington too? Do you have any watch-outs for me before I proceed with the order?


Will the Brown Art Du Lin jacket be restocked? I was hoping to hit the buy button in a few days and just realised that it has been sold out (that was fast!). 🙁


I was able to find a size M on Private White V.C’s website? Is there a difference between the product on Private White V.C’s website versus Permanent Style shop in terms of the product itself? I do notice that the price is different, but I suspect that is due to the fact they account for import duties, shipping, etc., in their pricing.


Hi Simon,
Just wondering, has the collar changed on the PS linen overshirts? I ask this because on the tobacco one I have, the fusing on the collar seems to be on the inner piece of fabric, but on the cuffs, its on the outer piece. Its almost as if the collar was attached the wrong way round? Was this intentional? So it looks like a soft collar instead of a fused collar. On the older PS linen overshirts that I have, both the collar and cuffs have the fusing attached to the outer piece of fabric.