Luxury chore coats compared

December 16th 2022

By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...

Luxury chore coats compared

Match in comments:
Hey BC, Yes the Lazyman would work, though I found them a little short. This is an area we covered quite a lot last year - we did a piece here on all the options, and then covered Tebas, chores etc separately. There are ...

JacketsDecember 16th 2022

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

July 24th 2020

This bespoke jacket was made by Shibumi, the Italian/Japanese company better known for ties and accessories. Over the past couple of years, founder Benedikt Fries has been working with a small Florentine tailor to offer this bespoke tailoring servi...

Shibumi bespoke checked jacket – Review

Match in comments:
I second the opinion on shibumi shirts. Wonderful details and the fit is just right....

Cloth - JacketsJuly 24th 2020

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

March 22nd 2019

This is the latest instalment in our series highlighting my favourite new seasonal cloths - providing a heads-up to readers on those that will mostly only be around for six months. It’s interesting to see how the ranges develop. While Cacciopp...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2019

Match in comments:
I do understand. No worries. Thanks again Lindsay...

ClothMarch 22nd 2019

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

October 19th 2018

This is the second post we've done highlighting our favourite cloths from new seasonal bunches. The first, on Spring/Summer 2018, is here. Unfortunately the bunches come in late in the season, but there's still probably time to use these recommendat...

The best cloths of Autumn/Winter 2018

Match in comments:
Thanks!...

Cloth - October 19th 2018

A guide to linen bunches

June 15th 2018

This is the second in our series presenting all the cloth bunches currently available for bespoke, summarising what they contain and picking out our favourites. The summaries should help determine which bunches readers need to see, or request. And t...

A guide to linen bunches

Match in comments:
They're all going to wrinkle, so if it's a suit I wouldn't worry about going lighter, like 9-10oz. If it was just trousers I'd perhaps risk it and go with Irish, to see how that feels. Bear in mind that coolness is a lot...

ClothJune 15th 2018

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

April 16th 2018

Great as our Guide to Cloth series is, it deliberately doesn’t recommend specific cloths in specific bunches. This is largely because bunches change regularly (sometimes every six months) and if we did, the Guide would quickly be out of date. ...

The best cloths of Spring/Summer 2018

Match in comments:
It depends a lot on the trouser. With high-twist wools, no. With flannel or tailoring cottons, yes quite a lot...

ClothApril 16th 2018

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...

February 28th 2018

Although casual clothing is far more susceptible to fashions than tailored clothing, it is possible to organize it into certain groups, or paradigms. These groups, such as preppy clothing or workwear, often have their roots in particular parts of th...

Five paradigms of casual clothing: Which do you w...

Match in comments:
They can absolutely be stylish Ayush, yes. There are many types of style, and ones such as workwear can be lovely. If you want to be a little more elegant or smart though, you can be one step up from others and perhaps n...

Casual clothing - DenimFebruary 28th 2018

Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again

October 2nd 2016

UPDATE: Original article published in 2013 The article in the bottom of this post was originally published in September 2013, when Berk in the Burlington Arcade was closing. Ballantyne, the factory, was shutting down and Berk was the last retai...

Ballantyne/Berk cashmere available again

Match in comments:
Does anyone have experience of the "new" Berk ? almost certain it is just made by Lockie (which is no bad thing I have 5 cashmere lockie jumpers) but I would love to know if anyone has bought and what their thoughts are ...

KnitwearOctober 2nd 2016

The corduroy suit

September 9th 2016

I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal environment like an office. Most no...

The corduroy suit

Match in comments:
Great, thanks, Simon....

Casual clothing - ClothSeptember 9th 2016

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

July 29th 2013

  This is a follow-up to my popular post on English mills and cloth merchants: how to tell them apart, how they are related and how to select between them (basically, don’t; there is little difference). Italian mills are a lot simple...

Italy’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
Oh, they look like just what I'm after, thank you!...

ClothJuly 29th 2013

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

April 15th 2013

  I was up in Yorkshire last week, based in Huddersfield and seeing a few of the mills and merchants, including Pennine, Johnsons and Dugdale. What struck me hardest when I got back was the lack of understanding among bespoke customers, ...

Huddersfield’s mills and merchants explained

Match in comments:
Thanks Simon!...

ClothApril 15th 2013

Half-lined and unlined jackets

May 7th 2010

An image-heavy post this week, to illustrate options for summer jackets. In particular, those half-lined and unlined. An unlined jacket is a nice way to create greater ventilation in hotter temperatures. The major disadvantage is that the jacket is m...

Half-lined and unlined jackets

Match in comments:
Yes, when people talk about unlined jackets they normally mean the sleeves are still lined and there is usually a little lining in the top of the back as well. Unlined sleeves are rather easier on cotton and linen, but s...

JacketsMay 7th 2010

The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale

January 18th 2010

Italian brands like Canali, Corneliani, Zegna and Pal Zileri all place a lot of emphasis upon the family ethic of their production and the hand-made nature of their suits. At least with the highest label, such as Zegna’s Couture or Sartoriale a...

The details of Pal Zileri Sartoriale

Match in comments:
Your suits are very eye catching materials> I do hope to visit some day on an individual shopping. I really love your fabrics....

January 18th 2010

The Rake: A real style magazine

March 3rd 2009

Finally. A magazine that professes to be about men’s style and actually dedicates most of its content to that topic. Finally. A magazine that takes men’s style seriously enough to include a regular section on tailoring, how it works and h...

The Rake: A real style magazine

Match in comments:
:o...

March 3rd 2009

Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits

February 27th 2009

It is always rewarding to get a look behind the scenes of a company. Nothing beats it for an insight into the philosophy, working practices and dedication to detail present in the production process. I was fortunate enough to peek behind the scenes a...

Behind the scenes: A Suit That Fits

Match in comments:
6 Guest Comments » 1. Simon, I’m incredibly jealous of you. I’ve always loved the thought of sculpting a gorgeous suit out of stunning materials, and you’ve managed to see it all going on for real. Can’t wait to...

SuitsFebruary 27th 2009