Video: Sartoria Ciardi in conversation
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This is the film of our small presentation with Sartoria Ciardi a couple of weeks ago - at Mark's Club in London.
We had 25 readers in the audience, with Poppy Charles kindly translating, and the result was a nice, intimate-feeling event with the Ciardi brothers, Enzo and Roberto.
We cover everything from the childhoods and their father Renato, to how the Neapolitan shoulder originated, to Roberto's new electric-blue mohair suit.
Thank you to those that came, to Mark's Club for hosting us, and to the Ciardi brothers for their time.
There was a trunk show the next day, and the brothers will be back in June for fittings. Contact for them is [email protected]
I am wearing:
- Sartoria Ciardi suit in VBC four-ply worsted
- Luca Avitabile spread-collar shirt
- Tom Ford silk houndstooth tie
- Permanent Style pearl cufflinks
- Anderson & Sheppard grey/white pocket handkerchief
Thank you for posting that video!
Very nice people the Ciardi brothers.
Very interesting that they have a high regard for british tailoring but are not very interested in florentine or milanes style.
Fascinating to me as well. I assume it’s because of their sense of history – all these tailoring traditions have their roots in earlier British tailoring. However, modern British tailoring has evolved since then no less than the Italian traditions have!
Actually that’s not generally true. The Italians have evolved fairly quickly in the past 100 years, and created their own styles, where most English tailors have not. In Naples for example you can look at the line in Naples from English visitors, to Angelo Blasi (a little softer, but still very English), to Renato Ciardi (and others influenced by Vincenzo Attolini).
Fair point – Italians have evolved into more varied directions. However when I look at pictures of British Edwardian tailoring, many things look quite different than what I expect to see today.
Very true, yes. I guess we should distinguish style changes from structural changes at the least
It seems to be more than style. English suits of the early twentieth century look like Neapoliatan suits of today, particularly the shoulders and armholes. The English suit of today is very different, the padding in the shoulder is far more developed. It seems all have changed, however in different directions. That said whatever the period or provenance I prefer the natural shoulder and small armhole, which feels so much more comfortable than the padded shoulder, and so much less about the show.
Lovely video, thanks for sharing to us not able to attend.
A nice video, Simon – well done.
I realize the love of sprezz but I’m afraid your tie knot looks very contrived.
Thanks Konrad. That’s interesting, given it wasn’t contrived or even considered to look that way!
A good idea, well executed but perhaps would have been more interesting with a House that has a more defined perspective.
Listening to the Ciardi brothers, it’s a simple story. Their father taught them, they do what they do. If you like it, buy it. If you don’t go somewhere else.
I think it would be much more interesting to hear the likes of Edward Sexton, Jo Morgan, or Anda Rowland interviewed. They are people who have evolved strong ideas.
Also, I have to say, when it comes to ‘soft’ tailoring, I really do think that A&S are the masters of delivering that beautiful dichotomy of a timeless piece that has at the same time a louche look and movement to it whilst remaining Conservative.
Frankly I find them vastly superior to our Italian brethren in the field of soft tailoring and they have the added advantage of being in the middle of town and speaking our lingo.
They are, of course, a completely different take on things to Jo Morgan who promotes a very distinctive style but both have strong perspectives that would make for a great interview.
Bravo, Simon!! Very good video.
… and of course charming video
Congratulations for this wonderful initiative, Simon.
This is a very meaningful contribution to our understanding of the Neapolitan tailoring culture, and of its historical development.
I would have liked to have heard more on what the Ciardi brothers think distinguishes the different tailors of Naples’ works, but I guess they weren’t willing to expand on that topic.
I look forward for the next talk of this kind!
Thanks.
Yes, it would have been nice to go more into that. I guess it’s not really something they see as important or significant, certainly compared to the style differences with the rest of Italy
What type of tie knit did you use in the picture? All you experts just recommend the four-in-hand and then go and do stuff like this! Looks good. I want to copy. Spill the beans. Please.
Sorry to disappoint you but it’s just a four-in-hand as well. It’s bigger and longer because it’s a wider tie with a thicker lining
Haha OK cool, thanks. Great video. Cheers.
Hi Simon,
Excellent discussion. Thank you so much for posting.
I could not stop staring at the bracelet/cuff on which you wore right above your watch though; interesting looking piece. Would you mind providing more details or perhaps doing a post on it?
Sure, I can do a piece. It’s an old Victorian cuff, from Grays Antiques Centre. Bit fancy for me, but nice for an occasion
Thanks Simon!
Great video. I’m sure there are always exceptions but the impression given by both the Ciardi brothers and other interviews I’ve seen with Italian tailors is that their general demeanour is that little more relaxed and less intimidating than many of their English counterparts. In your experience Simon is this the case?
Hmmmm. Interesting question. Perhaps on average, yes, though there are some very friendly English tailors and some gruff Italian ones
Amazing video Simon! Great insights and perspective from the Ciardi brothers. Please if you could do a video or an article about their visit to one of the British tailoring houses covering their discussion, questions and reactions in general.
Nice point, sure will do Hazwan
Wonderful and interesting interview. Bespoke addict from Cape Town. Small tailoring service /company A LIST CREATIONS. Love the bussiness of top end clothing.
Firstly congratulations for staging this, it has a warm friendly feel. I think your readership/ audience would love to see more; people such as Richard Anderson, Steven and John Hitchcock and Edward Sexton would make fascinating individuals to interview. Some suggestions if you would allow… Even for enthusiasts 55 mins is long – perhaps 20 – 30 minute bites to start (if done without audience), longer if you have cutaways to locations or workrooms. Whilst entertaining the constant delay for translation halts the rythym. If budgets allow (and I understand the cost attached) suggest tightening the flow by cutting out the translator (though she is very good) and cutting from your question to their response but with sub-titles (think Inspector Montalbano). It would lose the intimacy but sharpen the interest and reduce duration. Should you then wish to develop the theme you could have cutaways placing the subject in-situ in the cutting room demonstrating techniques or showing cuts or cloth (as with the Richard Anderson video on pressing). Camera and, importantly sound, seem bang on. Should you do more please let readers know beforehand, I’m sure dozens would forward questions. Feel confident in your ‘on camera presence’ – its great. Please do more.
Thank you.
We did consider subtitles but time and budget prevented it. That would certainly have helped with the timing, though I know some readers want to see everything
Noted on other English tailors – they tend to be covered more, but you’re right we’ve never done video coverage with them, only the text coverage from the Tailors Symposium, which featured Edward, Richard and John Hitchcock
Fred made some pertinent points about the reversal of styles (Edwardian soft shoulder developing into the structured style of today etc.). It might be a little obscure but given the interest in international styles would it be possible to focus on this within an article – I think it would be interesting to know why the English style developed in the way it has (whilst contrasting with the Italian direction) but also to challenge the tradition – is it still
developing and evolving?
Good point, and it would be interesting. More so if a tailor today were actively following that style I guess
Very nice and pleasant video.
Grazie mille)