It's dress-up time!
In this second video with Audie Charles at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, Audie dresses me in five pieces of knitwear from the shop, showing how she thinks they can add variety.
In Audie's view, men too often go for a shirt under a jacket, when knitwear can be more interesting, more comfortable, and neater when you take the jacket off. It's also great for travel.
Interestingly, Audie agrees that this expresses some of the core attitude behind the Haberdashery. While the bespoke A&S shop round the corner would always be shirt-and-tie, the Haberdashery team want to show how tailoring can do double-duty, also being dressed down.
As Audie mentions, personally I would put a neckerchief or bandana into the crewneck sweater. And I probably prefer the shawl-collar sweater with just the T-shirt underneath. But it's really interesting seeing what pieces, textures and colours Audie picks out.
Audie's other recommendations include:
- Putting a silk neckerchief underneath the collar of a roll neck, if you don't like the feel against the skin
- To wear a T-shirt under knitwear, even if merino is nice on the skin, to save on laundry
- To play around with shirts, ties and knitwear under tailoring, to keep it fresh. Like moving paintings around at home
- Using knitwear (like hers) with a slim arm and high armhole, so it fits more easily under a jacket
- To not always wear a pocket square - to consider it as a possible variation, rather than required
The previous video with Audie, showing how to look after woollen knitwear, can be seen here.
Other practical videos we've produced are (also all on the YouTube channel):
- How a bespoke suit can be repaired
- How to look after tailoring
- How polish shoes part 1 and part 2
- How to fold a handkerchief
- How to look after suede jackets
- How to look after good shoes
Thank you to Lloyd and the whole team at Campaign for Wool for help with this video
The Haberdashery website and shop, where all the pieces can be found, is here.
Great video, knitwear under tailoring is something I have been experimenting with recently. More inspired by the series with Saman Amel and their aesthetic.
Agree with Audie regrading pocket squares, I find myself wearing them less and less. Maybe because I find them more unusual then a tie in an office environment, I also am more of the belief they can look slightly fussy.
Nice video! Personally I wouldn’t wear the Shawl-collar though.
Quick question: I find that most knitwear is a bit shorter in arm length than my shirts.
Do you find that knitwear has to show 1-1.5cm bellow the sleeve as a shirt would? Or is that less an issue with knitwear?
It’s less of an issue, though I still like to
Really great video .
I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on following …
1 Your thoughts about “submariner” jumpers which I seem to come across of late.
2 Given that most knitwear is RTW can you suggest some brands you think PS readers should look at?
3 If worn under a shirt what shirt collar would you recommend (button down or open wide ) and is it best to go with crew neck or v neck ?
Finally can I request Audie be made the honorary “godmother of PS” . Her advice and delivery is so elegant . She really is a gem !
1. What they actually are varies, but it tends to be a thicker, coarser version of a roll neck, in a tighter cut at the waist. Wear as you would a roll neck, though likely not under a jacket given the thickness
2. Maybe easiest to look under the Knitwear category of posts?
3. Button down is usually easier, but it basically just has to stand out nice and proud from the neckline.
Crew necks are generally easier, but it’s a style thing. Both can look good
Hi Simon,
On #2, I guess I have a more specific variation of this question – is there any place you’d recommend for good merino wool crewnecks, cardigans, polos, and rollovers?
I’ve been looking through the knitwear category and article comments. Seems like there is a lot of discussion of lambswool and cashmere, but little discussion merino. I really just want to improve my knitwear.
I have a couple of pieces from Suit Supply, and like that I can wear it on skin without it feeling scratchy or uncomfortable. However, I want to start moving to perhaps finer merino, and definitely better cashmere (though here I’m pretty convinced that Luca Faloni or Anderson&Sheppard would be my best bet).
From comments it seems like maybe Smedley, Johnstons of Elgen, Bryceland’s, Anderson & Sheppard, and of course the PS Shop (in long-sleeve polos) have options in Merino in the aforementioned categories (and perhaps the Armoury).
Dear Simon,
Who made the beautiful button down shirt?
Peter
It’s an Everyday Denim shirt – from PS
Dear Simon,
But who made the shirt itself. The button down collar is very beautiful, that’s why I am asking.
Peter
It is a ready-made one that is sold on PS, made by Luca Avitabile (like all our shirts). The collar is something we worked on a long time
Going to give that a try. Always impressed by Audie’s knowledge and helpfulness. Thanks Audie 🙂
What jacket are you wearing Simon?
The jacket is my tweed from Ciardi:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/?p=66855
Interesting. I was wondering the same, and looking at the post for the jacket now, the colors come off quite different in video. Perhaps due to the difference in background colors in stills and video. The softer and more colorful background in the video softens the jacket up a bit I think.
Looks lovely.
Ah interesting, yes I think you’re right
Some more unusual ways of wearing knitwear with tailoring, thought provoking thanks Simon.
Just wondering how A&S merino compares to John Smedley, crewneck and v-neck in particular? I’m curious given the previous comparisons between Uniqlo and Smedley. Thanks.
It’s good John, is say a step above Smedley perhaps. But I don’t own any so can’t speak to the longevity
I love the look of knitwear instead of a shirt under tailoring, I just worry about overheating (especially when traveling) with wool knitwear being a warmer layer than a shirt. I wish good quality cotton knitwear was more commonly available for this reason.
She has such a lovely accent/voice.
And that store is beautiful, such a homely feel to the place.
The Irish guy Connor I believe his name is has been there since it opened and is great it’s so nice to see continuity in staff when you go into these high priced high end stores.
Very true. Audie, Anda, Emily and Conor make such a difference
Did she have a mic on? Didn’t sound like it. I think it sound would be better balanced if both a mic. Otherwise, I believe in pocket squares! Great video. Keep up the good work.
Yes we both had a mic
The cardigan with the shirt and tie is a fantastic look as is the polo collar sweater. Audie has a deep knowledge of men’s style and superb taste. She really is fabulous, what a resource!
Very interesting post. Swapping shirt for knitwear is something I find myself doing increasingly often.
I do think the shawl cardigan under jacket looks a bit studied and bulky, to me it’s much more suitable for replacing the jacket itself.
On the knit polo, even with ones with higher collars, I find it best to close all the buttons, since they will collapse or bunch up if not done. Is this your experience too, Simon?
I love the tonal roll neck look, and must say the neck in that looked particularly good. Nice and fitted but not tight. I’ve yet to find such a fit myself.
I can see how the silk hanky helps with scratching but it looked bulky and I imagined uncomfortable having that small knot pressing against your throat instead?
I don’t find it uncomfortable, but yes it is a little bulky.
On the knit polo, yes that is my experience. It was the key reason I designed the Dartmoor that we sell on the PS shop
Hi Simon
This is an excellent post full of great suggestions!
The first video with Audie as well as this one are very very very helpful!
Many thanks for sharing these useful tips!
John
What about the cuffs? If you’ve had a jacket sleeve tailored to show your shirt cuffs, the jacket looks smart and natural with a shirt double cuff. But not so with a jumper or long sleeve polo where those cuffs are tight on your wrist, whilst leaving the jacket sleeve flapping and looking too short at the wrist.
Yes, unfortunately double cuffs aren’t really designed to be worn with long-sleeved knitwear like that. They were always more formal, and knitwear would have been seen as too casual, so it wasn’t an issue
Very nice! PS really is the one blog that can still teach me something new I like. However, I’d like to point out something about the shawl cardigan example. To make this one work, the cardigan needs to be fairy lightweight, with slim sleeves. But this isn’t what is my first thought about buying a shawl cardigan – the one I’d pick would be much thicker, with some room to layer it over another sweater. Such as the PS navy one, although I would probably have to sell a few unnecessary organs to afford it 🙂 It’s just the thing I tend to notice about unorthodox layering – it can look nice, but you have to think how much space there is for another layer.
Another thing: what can we do during spring/summer months? There is, as we know, the polo/jacket layer, either in long sleeve or short sleeve version. But what else could be done? Perhaps the dreaded t-shirt option?
Yes, a T-shirt or other undershirt can add some nice variation
Also playing with shirts/overshirts
Inspiration, thankyou both……
Inspiration indeed. Until I read this article, I would simply never have thought about wearing items of knitwear under tailoring. And the idea of wearing a t shirt under a sweater to help keep it cleaner is brilliant.
Thank you so much.
Audie is a sartorial Goddess and I find it impossible to go into this home (it’s not a shop) without being seduced into buying something either from her or one of her delightful colleagues.
She should really write a book. Between her time with Dougie Hayward and A&S, she must have the low down on every flaneur in London – past and present !
Beyond their great service, I always find their knitwear particularly spectacular and Audie is particularly adept at putting it together albeit I don’t lake any shawl cardigan or naked crew neck with a tailored jacket. The former is way too bulky and the latter just looks naked – like you’ve forgotten something.
That withstanding – viva Audie and viva her team. Forever the gold standard !
Quick question which has the highest collar – the A&S or the PS polo neck sweater ?
You mean the polo collar? The PS one is taller
Simon,
Exactly.
At launch you promised more colours.
What will they be and when will they arrive ?
Jason
I’m afraid I don’t know on either yet Jason, we’re in the process of confirming with the factory
Simon,
Could you do a quick compare of the Trunk and AS Shetland Sweaters?
Thanks!
I’d say:
– Trunk ones are a little softer, perhaps lighter in weight too, not so solid
– Trunk ones have no side seams, which is a nice touch but means the body is fairly straight cut
– A&S has a much bigger range of colours, and ones with more marl and variation within them
– I’ve found the sizing a little variable with A&S, and the sleeves a tiny bit long
Simon, this might sound silly but something I struggle with quite a bit is stains on the collar. These have been annoying me for a long time now. I started cleaning my neck in the shower (with just my hands because they say loofahs and brushes are bacteria havens and actually have a negative effect), but while it lowers the stain it doesn’t eliminate it. I tried baby powder, etc – again, just minimizes it but does eliminate it.
Wearing a shirt is OK because you can wash and clean cotton pretty easily, but a wool sweater is a different story. Is there some sort of life pro tip to preventing collar stains (before they even show up on the shirt)? Thank you!
In terms of shirts, I’ve always found the most effective thing is to occasionally use a stain remover on the collar and armpits, when the very first signs of dirt or yellowness appear.
But are you talking about stains on the collar of knitwear? I’ve never had that issue but I guess I normally have a shirt underneath
Try Fels Naphtha Soap on the collars before putting them in the washing machine. Something like The Laundress Stain Solution also works. Use a small brush with a rough bristle made for the purpose of laundering collars and cuffs.
Hi Simon,
Not strictly related to this video but do you have problems with the neck opening in roll necks becoming too loose, and if so how do you combat the problem?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
I don’t to be honest, sorry Isaac. Washing it might help though?
I’ve done a video on this at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4OXooiOzfw
Skip to 3:15 for the specifics, but, essentially, you can spot wash it to reshrink the neck or other parts.
Lovely video with Ms. Charles. Thank you. Regarding option “5b”, which I thought was very smart, would you please expand a bit on the scarf under the crew neck shetland? Weight, length, and if it is “regular” length, how did you arrange it with no visible outline under the sweater?
It was short and soft – one of the musk ox ones they have, details here
Personally I prefer something even smaller and lighter, like the A&S neckerchiefs, or the square scarfs we’ve done with Begg though
Thank you for such a comprehensive response, Simon. Apparently, I have not visited the PS Shop in a while – thought the “new” format was great, easy to navigate with very clear product shots and informative descriptions.
That’s lovely to hear, thanks. If you ever have any ways you think we could improve, please do let me know
all the combination you tried are so good and your ideas are also good hope you will try more with other attractive combination.
Hi Simon,
I have never stepped into any shop on Savile Row before, apart from Drake’s but might now venture into A&S on account of this video just to see the ‘Sartorial Goddess’ that is Ms Charles. Her manners just puts one at ease and it was such a joy to watch your double act, dispensing so much helpful tips.
Wool is such a difficult fabric to maintain and I could tell you many a calamitous tale from hand-washing nightmares to moth attacks, even on new, unworn clothes. One should just never be too precious about these things or else you lose the joy of wearing wool. By the way, when are you likely to restock the scarf rings and the reversible Valstarino (Black)?
Thanks a lot.
The reversible valstarino will be back soon, but in brown (the previous one was navy)
And we will be getting more scarf rings very soon
Cheers
how do the sweaters from A & S fit?
I vaguely remember you mentioning they fit on the loose end?
Don’t want to have to deal with an unneccessary return from the US.
Thanks
Yes overall I’d say they are a fairly classic fit – straight and not slim. If you’re unsure it’s worth contacting them though, they’re good on service points like that generally
Great video. It’s nice to see these creative ideas even if one wouldn’t necessarily wear all of these outfits.
I have just one practical point to make: a mid-weight knitwear like the cardigan (and I have that very cardigan from A&S) below a jacket usually means one gets too warm, unless the jacket is essentially used as outerwear and removed inside.
Hi Simon,
Have you reviewed that flannel suit before? Is it a 3-button (without roll)? I’m not sure you have any such jackets?
Hey Noel. No it has some roll – it’s the Panico suit you can see here. But the top button is quite high
What t-shirt do you wear under the knitwear?
Something close-fitting and designed to be underwear, like the Hamilton & Hare seamless tee for example
Thanks, I’ll check that out.
Out of curiosity, what do you think of undershirts with 5% elastane?
Nothing wrong with them if they work for you. Elastane has the potential to reduce breathability, but that can be increased through the knit of the material too
Hi Simon,
I have some geelong lambswool sweaters from Trunk and a Merz B Schwanen 346. The wool sweater fit me good but if I wear a shirt under them the sweaters are tight , uncomfortable and with time I see that the sweaters stretches. Should I take a bigger size? Why is this happening?
Thanks
Hi Michael.
Most sweaters will stretch a little if worn close and therefore pushed and stretched themselves. Wool particularly.
It sounds like you might need a bigger size if you’re wearing them over a shirt