The style of King Charles: Top-level classic mens...
A friend of mine once told me about regular meetings with Prince Charles (as he then was). Assembled at Clarence House, a team of six would wait in a shockingly cold room, to the extent that anyone who was near a window could see their breath. Charl...
The style of King Charles: Top-level classic mens...
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Hi Cristobal, lovely to hear from you. I'm afraid I don't know who makes the Duke's suits. He does dress very well. I tend not to cover that many people in the limelight like this unless people specifically ask, as menti...
Women and clothes: An interview with Emilie Hawtin
It’s not uncommon to hear men complain that they don’t know what to wear anymore, particularly to the office. Or that there aren’t any good mid-market brands, just cheap high-street and high-end luxury. But no matter what our issue...
Women and clothes: An interview with Emilie Hawtin
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In my trawl of the internet for quality womenswear, I came across this article. Like many women, I'm interested in wearing all kinds of clothes and unlike some commentators assume, could quite happily wear a tomboyish ta...
Turnbull & Asser: The Sustainability Framework
This is the first article using our Sustainability Framework , which we set out on PS a couple of months ago. Its aim was to create a definition of environmental sustainability that could be used to talk to companies we cover, about their efforts to...
Turnbull & Asser: The Sustainability Framework
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Maz, your comments are not irrelevant but they are rather confused. Whether T&A made you a good bespoke shirt or not is not really related to any of these points on sustainability. And, they don't shout about sustainabil...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...
Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe
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I would be confident enough to trust in Luca making a more formal shirt suitable for a bow tie. What attracts me to Luca is that there are no minimum number of shirts for a first bespoke commission with him. T&A, if ...
London: A sartorial city guide
I’ve had quite a few requests by readers over the past year for city guides, so this is the first in a series. In London, there are so many options that it makes sense to group some together. Also, if I leave too many out I’ll...
London: A sartorial city guide
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Nice to hear Brian...
Kingsman: British and bespoke
Kingsman: The Secret Service launches in the UK in February. There are several nice things about this. Sections of it are set in Huntsman, on Savile Row. The clothing is all supplied by British brands (and nearly all made in the UK): George Cleverl...
Kingsman: British and bespoke
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He was not influenced by Edward directly. I'm afraid I'll have to leave these questions there if that's ok. I can't reply to all of them, but I hope I have helped with your thoughts process. Simon...
Interview: Dean Gomilsek-Cole, Turnbull & Asser
Over the past few months, Turnbull & Asser has gone through an interesting experiment, attempting to extend its signature bright colours and clashing patterns from tailoring to casual wear. While not all the results are to my taste, the met...
Interview: Dean Gomilsek-Cole, Turnbull & Asser
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No progress without experiments. True in the sciences (Dr. Bunsen :) ), but also in tailoring, esp. for a younger tailor. It's the exercise what it's about. Most combinations will work if you remove those ties, but I gue...
Shirt cuffs and watches
A reader recently asked whether he should have his shirt cuffs made bigger – or the sleeves shorter – in order to accommodate a watch. This is relevant to anyone buying a shirt, not just those commissioning bespoke. The short answer is ...
Shirt cuffs and watches
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Thank you Simon, I'll need to look at the position again. I didn't give it enough thought when I made this selection. You're spot on with your recommendations....
Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars
[NOTE: Luca Avitabile, the cutter for men’s shirts at Satriano Cinque above, has split from the company and set up on his own. I recommend contacting him for any inquiries, at [email protected]] One of the nice things about having cl...
Luca, Satriano Cinque and A&S collars
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Either double or single, perhaps with a rounded edge but doesn't have to be...
Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?
Hi Mr Crompton, I’m a fan of yours (Permanent Style, The Rake) from Singapore. I’ve been agonising over my shirts for some time and would like to ask your advice. I’ve been wearing bespoke T&A for about 10 years...
Should I change from Turnbull & Asser to Kiton?
Match in comments:
Thanks for the tip...
Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival
This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it includes Austin Reed and Daks...
Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival
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The latter is more accurate. But K&H are also not really saying they can do anything at all. All adaptation has its limits....
How a shirt should fit
Learning how a shirt should fit you can take surprisingly long – as most fans of bespoke try far fewer shirtmakers than they do tailors. Once learned, however, the lessons are fairly simple. They are becoming particularly clear to me as I c...
How a shirt should fit
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Nice to hear Edwin, and thanks for talking about the experience. Those online services can be great if you nail the fit and they are consistent in what they deliver. But it can be a pain getting there...
Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain
The Spanish version of How to Spend It, Fueria de Serie, interviewed me and did a photo shoot when I visited Jose Maria’s Club Aristocrata last year. The piece came out today. Unless your Spanish is a lot better than mine, you won’...
Profile piece in How to Spend It, Spain
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The lead times on things like this are quite long I'm afraid. If Drake's are offering it at Pitti now, it means it will be in the shop this autumn. If you are in doubt about the tie pin, try just using it on woven ties. ...
Satriano Cinque: bespoke shirt, Naples
In Naples last week, I was able to have a fitting on the shirt I ordered from Satriano Cinque earlier in the year. As neither Luca nor Gabriella travel to London, this was the only opportunity to get a fitting done – indeed, in the end we h...
Satriano Cinque: bespoke shirt, Naples
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Thank you....
Get your shirts altered – Turnbull & Asser
Normal.dotm 0 0 1 324 1852 Euromoney PLC 15 3 2274 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false Shirts cannot be tweaked and tucked quite as fully or often as a jacket, unfortunately. There is no inlay in the side seams, and therefore it cannot be ...
Get your shirts altered – Turnbull & Asser
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Yes, absolutely, just needs a good alterations tailor or seamstress that can cut the same hem line, and use the same stitching/thread...
The history of Drake’s
Drake’s was founded in 1977 by three ex-Aquascutum employees: Michael Drake (head of menswear design), Jeremy Hull (export sales director) and Isabel Dickson (export sales administration). “It always helps when you found a business to hav...
The history of Drake’s
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Nice idea...
Christmas suggestions
If you’re anything like me, Christmas shopping begins in earnest this week. Just long enough ahead to get everything done, but little enough time to inject a little panic into the process. Here are a few suggestions from a few of my favourites....
Christmas suggestions
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Excellent post....
Bespoke shirts at Turnbull & Asser, City branch
I’ve always felt myself very fortunate to have my tailor within walking distance. Few men today, particularly in the US, have that privilege. But my shirtmaker was always a tube ride away; until now. A few weeks ago Turnbull & Asser be...
Bespoke shirts at Turnbull & Asser, City branch
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Thanks Nico, I didn't know of either but I will be sure to visit next time I am in Spain. Simon...
PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan
You could never refer to yourself as a style icon. But if someone else gives you the title, it’s alright to pass it on, right? Seriously, I was highly flattered to be asked to appear in the latest issue of PEN magazine, which I am told by...
PEN magazine: Permanent Style big in Japan
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Thanks, I certainly will. It will hopefully also be the topic of my third book, which I'm talking to publishers abou at the moment...
Two ways to get shirts altered: T&A, Emma Wi...
I used to wear bigger watches. Chunky, sporty things with chronometer dials and a leather strap. So when my pattern was first cut at Turnbull & Asser the cuffs were set quite wide – though slightly wider on the left than the right, of ...
Two ways to get shirts altered: T&A, Emma Wi...
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To answer Kayhan's question about Karl Lagerfeld's special order of shirts, they are made to measure in Paris by Hilditch & Key from his own pattern which, of course, can be used only by him. Another famous Parisian cost...
Feedback on the A Suitable Wardrobe store
I wrote almost a year ago how impressed I was with Will at A Suitable Wardrobe setting up a store, to sell his taste and knowledge of European manufacturers to the blog’s readership. Since then the store has grown and I have purchased many thin...
Feedback on the A Suitable Wardrobe store
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Kayhan wrote: "I have been trying to get some Simonnot-Godard pocket squares, could you help where I could find them beside's Will's store." I found them in a small webshop in Denmark too: http://grunwald-true-style.com/...
A plain business suit from Timothy Everest
Readers have made the point that my bespoke commissions often seem to be rather outlandish pieces: the Huntsman shooting suit, for example, or the Timothy Everest velvet jacket. Why, at least one has asked, do you not have simple business suits made?...
A plain business suit from Timothy Everest
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Blimey. Up to you on the lining. Matching is conservative but can be nice; bright red or blue can be a little jarring; personally I prefer dark, sophisticated colours these days, like a mossy green or burnt orange....
Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?
You spend a lot of time talking about suits and bespoke shoes, but what do you wear at the weekend? I have trouble picturing what you put on to pop out to the newsagent. Here are a few of my favourite things. Two types of chinos: those from Albam, wh...
Reader question: What do you wear at the weekend?
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Ok, but I wouldn't really recommend it. A bit gimmicky and not the greatest quality...
Dressing gowns at Stephen Lachter
A dressing gown is not the most obvious thing to have made. There are some perfectly lovely ready-to-wear gowns from people like Turnbull & Asser (ask about specials there), Drake’s and Charvet. And fit is hardly the biggest concern &n...
Dressing gowns at Stephen Lachter
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Yes. They were good, though pretty similar to other English shirts, and that's not a style I wear much (I'd only wear them formally, with a tie)...
Bespoke blue voile shirt
It was a pleasure having dinner with Will of A Suitable Wardrobe in San Francisco last week, if only for the wonderful food at Kokkari and Eleni, our lovely waitress. But perhaps most sartorially significant was that I picked up two metres of blue vo...
Bespoke blue voile shirt
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Yes I know, the increases of costs everyone has experienced are really unfortunate - they pull much of this finest clothing out of the reach of more people...