Tokyo is one of the most varied, creative and stimulating retail experiences in the world.
Not only is the city huge, but each area has a distinct feel and atmosphere, reflected in its shopping.
There are small, niche brands everywhere, as well as workshops and artisans. Many of those are unique to Japan, but even the designer brands up their game – often with striking stores and developments.
There are too many to list in full, but these 50+ shops are our favourites. As with previous guides, we have focused on stores that are pretty much exclusive to Tokyo.
I recommend looking up the various stores on a map and grouping them into areas: the size of Tokyo means it could take a while to get from one to another. Below, however, we’ve divided the shops into sections by type, by interest. Because I know not everyone will be interested in both bespoke tailoring and vintage workwear.
CLASSIC MENSWEAR
There are two branches of Anatomica in Tokyo, one fairly central in Aoyama, and one further out in Nihonbashi. The latter is my favourite, but if you don’t have time to travel specifically to it, then do pop into the one in Aoyama instead.
The clothing is rather different to the Paris store that readers might be more familiar with (and we covered here) but the combination of French and Japanese creative directors means the clothes are a fascinating mix of cultures and styles, with berets and traditional Japanese handkerchiefs alongside original workwear designs.
2 Bryceland’s Co
Bryceland’s is a niche menswear store opened in 2016 by Ethan Newton. It mixes soft Italian tailoring with workwear such as chore jackets and jeans, and vintage-style pieces such as rayon shirts.
We’ve covered and reviewed several Bryceland’s pieces over the years, and they can be found on the brand’s page here. Tailor Anglofilo works out of the back of the shop.
Leather master Naoyuki Komatsu has a stellar reputation. He runs a small workshop called Ortus, which does 90% bespoke pieces such as day bags and wallets.
Everything is entirely hand sewn – in fact, Komatsu even goes as far as to make the brass hardware himself, crafting these additions small works of beauty in themselves. Trade mark designs include the ‘music bag’ – a briefcase made of one piece of leather with a brass bar securing the single handle. Dedicated post on Ortus here. Also very good, particularly with traditional styles of bag, is the older operation Fugee.
L&Harmony is a shoe store specialising in vulcanised canvas shoes such as Doek, Pras and Moonstar. But not only do they have a bigger range of those brands than you’ll find anywhere else, they also have brands such as Asahi, Yomiya and others. Plus there are accessories, socks and bags.
It’s a little out of the way, but if you’re uptown near Ginza or Ueno, it’s worth the detour.
Ring Jacket was the first Japanese tailoring brand to achieve serious recognition around the world, largely thanks to the promotion of The Armoury in Hong Kong and New York. There are two stores in Tokyo, in Ginza and Aoyama, and it is also stocked in Isetan.
The style is Italian and soft-shouldered, although there is a range of models (a decent reason to visit one of the standalone stores rather than just Isetan) and they also offer accessories and leather goods, all with rather Italian styling. The tailoring is well made and good value, particularly in Japan compared to imported Italian brands.
6 Eyewear: Solakzade, Gig Lamps and others
Out on the commercial shopping strip of Omotesando Hills is vintage jewellery and glasses specialist Solakzade. The shop is not immediately obvious – it’s on the basement floor down a small flight of steps – and is a stone-and-gold cavern inside.
Run by two brothers, the range is eclectic, everything from the nineteenth century to the 1970s. But everyone there knows the stock inside out, and it’s worth talking to them about styles if you have even just a passing interest in old frames. Upstairs is men’s jewellery, but this can also be discussed and accessed downstairs. Dedicated post on Solakzade here.
Also worth a look is Gig Lamps Eyewear, in Meguru City – a few metro stops away. And if you’re interested in eyewear more generally, Aoyama is the place for it – the main strip has a big concentration, including places like Eye-Van.
It won’t surprise most readers to learn that there is a Japanese brand taking hangers to a particularly high level. Here it is Nakata Hangers, a 70-year-old family business that supplies many of the country’s brands and department stores, but in recent years has also focused on selling particularly high-end pieces to end consumers.
The shop in Minato City is more set up for wholesale than retail, but if you want beautiful, unique hangers for your bespoke tailoring, it’s worth a visit to see the products in person. They are sold in the UK by Arterton.
8 Union Works and Sarto Ginza
These two are worth mentioning because they are examples of how well the Japanese do the things around menswear, such as repairs. Union Works has three stores in Tokyo offering shoe repair, but also does a plethora of other work, and has a small line of clothes and accessories. Sarto, on the other hand, has grown to the point of having several branches, altering and repairing everything from suits to leather jackets, holds trunk shows with the likes of B&Tailor, and even has its own in-house shoemaker.
WORKWEAR
The Real McCoy’s is my personal favourite workwear brand, and not only is their quality unsurpassed, but the range is huge, from leathers to jeans to sportswear. Until recently they had a shop in London, but even then it wasn’t as big as this one in Tokyo. It’s downstairs, but don’t let the entrance fool you – it’s big.
Freewheelers is another workwear brand at the top of its game – more of a biker focus than McCoy’s, but great quality. The shop is also charming – you might think it’s called Desolation Row from the outside, or Uncle John’s Bait & Tackle, so look out for those names as well.
3 M’Arijuan (D’Artisan)
Another good one is M’Arijuan, which is the home of Osaka-five member Studio D’Artisan and others in that group, such as Orgueil, which I’ve come to appreciate since they’ve been at Clutch Cafe in London.
Right on the corner, this is a delightful little multibrand store with both repro and modern brands – Camber and Chamula, Engineered Garments and Needles. It also has a nice selection of vintage southwestern jewellery.
4 Full Count, The Flat Head, Lewis Leathers in Harajuku
This area of town – Harajuku and Omotesando – has the headquarters of most of the other workwear brands that fans in the US, UK and elsewhere will know from their local stockists. They include Full Count and The Flat Head, plus the British institution Lewis Leathers.
There’s also Time Worn Clothing: less well known and not always the friendliest, but with a big following for its At Last denim brand and Butcher sportswear. That’s over in Shibuya.
5 Phigvel
An area of town that was new to us on this trip was Nakameguro, and I’m really pleased we made the time to go down. It’s a lovely district, with shops ranged along a canal hung with trees. Our favourite discovery there was Phigvel, which although workwear-influenced, very much updates those styles and offers them in a clean, modern palette.
Another good shop in the area for workwear is Post O’Alls, and there are both men’s and women’s Nigel Cabourn branches.
Over in the Daikanyama area, the little UES shop has unfortunately closed since we were last here (2019). But fortunately the rambling Okura is still open.
The original flagship store for Blue Blue Japan, it’s styled like a Japanese warehouse (kura) and is great for anyone that loves indigo-dyed clothing. It’s stocked floor to ceiling with indigo-dyed jackets, T-shirts, sweatshirts and kimonos, both from Blue Blue Japan and cheaper variations made overseas. Look out for pieces in sashiko cloth.
A few doors down from shoemaker Yohei Fukuda is a small doorway next to a glass display case. It proclaims ‘Bailey Stockman’ and leads to a tiny shop upstairs. There, a small operation has been importing American-made western clothing for almost 50 years. That includes hats, shirts and boots, and with some of them the makers are no longer around, so they’re effectively NOS vintage.
There are also some Japanese-made pieces, including the company ‘Funny’ from Osaka, that makes stamped buckles and moccasins. There’s also a great burger bar downstairs owned by the same people.
VINTAGE/KOENJI
Vintage shopping in Japan is covered in a separate shopping guide, here. That piece includes not just central Tokyo (Harajuku) but also Koenji, the vintage-specialist area outside the centre, and places in Osaka and Kobe.
Among my favourites are Berbejin in Harajuku, Safari (all of them) in Koenji, and Acorn in Osaka. I’ll also use this section to mention a great non-vintage store in Koenji, which is Mogi…
1 Mogi
Mogi was founded by Terry Ellis, a London-raised designer who lives most of his year in Japan. Best known for heading the Fennica brand at Beams, Terry recently set up his own independent store in Koenji that mixes folk art with new and old menswear. It’s an inspiration, and worth a visit to Koenji on its own.
DEPARTMENT STORES
1 Isetan
Department stores in Japan do things very well, from the brand mix to the merchandising. But one thing that will set them apart for many readers is the presence of bespoke and made-to-measure clothing, from all around the world.
Isetan is worth seeing for the pure department-store experience, though also make sure to visit the made-to-measure area and look out for any trunk shows going on at the time. Oh, and there’s a whole building just for menswear.
Strasburgo takes this a step further. With a more select range, and slightly more sartorial approach than the other department stores, it has several branches around the city.
Strasburgo has also tried to host more bespoke makers in house over the years, with the Sovereign House location unfortunately closing recently. It was where artisans such as shirtmaker Masanori Yamagami and tailor Noriyuki Higashi (Sartoria Raffaniello) were located. Trouser-maker Igarashi also started out here.
3 Beams F and International Gallery Beams
Having said this, on our most recent trip to Tokyo it was Beams that really stood out. I think it was because we were looking less at bespoke producers, more at retail in general, and it was a salient reminder of how much better Beams does it than anywhere else in the world.
Go into Beams International Gallery and you suddenly discover a host of European makers that you can’t get in London – perhaps have never even heard of. Sandals from Giacometti, moccasins from Castellano, Paraboot special editions that are exclusive to Japan. It reminds you how poor English department stores are on all these things.
Beams F is more tailoring and smarter clothing, while Beams Plus is more casual (and readers might be familiar with from elsewhere). While we were there the windows were full of a collaboration with LL Bean.
Compared to the stores above, Tomorrowland is more fashion-focused, but the men’s side tends to be fairly classic and have some interesting variants on menswear staples. It carries its own brand as well as range of others, including Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten and James Perse.
FASHION/CASUAL
So, we’re not talking high fashion here, or indeed low-end mass-market fashion. Rather, this is a space for craft-based brands like 45R or Visvim that don’t really fall into classic or workwear categories – perhaps because few places in the world do this kind of clothing like Japan.
1 45R
45R is an innovator in natural, crafted clothing that often involves organic indigo dye. The pieces are deceptively simple, uncompromisingly made, and intended to look vintage from the moment they’re offered. They’re expensive, on a par with designer labels, but all that money goes into the product and process.
The clothes can be unusual, but there are always great jeans, tees and bandanas as well. I completely get why some people don’t take to the brand, but if you like craft, they deserve your time in understanding what they do. There are a few shops in Tokyo, but the one to go to if you can is the flagship Badou-R.
2 Kapital
Kapital is similar, but a lot weirder. There’s often a lot of craft involved in the clothing, but the results will often be more extreme in design and proportion. Personally it’s less for me, but the brand is unique and Tokyo has the greatest expression of it. The main shop is in Shibuya, but Kountry has the weirdest pieces and the women’s shop, oddly in a pristine shopping mall.
3 Visvim
Like the two above, but more expensive and more fashion-driven. Visvim often takes inspiration from classic pieces of menswear, and there’s a good amount of craft involved, but there’s a reason the HQ in Nakameguro feels more like an art museum than a shop. I’d say it’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area, or like the brand, but I wasn’t personally tempted by anything.
4 1LDK
An interesting example of a good multi-brand shop, which is something that’s fast disappearing in the rest of the world. Largely more casual, but with great brands like Auralee and Arpenteur, plus Comoli, Kaptain Sunshine and Studio Nicholson. There are two shops, both worth a look, in Nakameguro.
Arts & Science is a small chain of stores in Tokyo founded by stylist Sonya Park. It’s an interesting crossover between Japanese crafts and modern, minimal sensibilities, with accessories, menswear and womenswear. Although the clothing offering is pretty small, it is a good place to find unusual (if expensive) homewares and accessories, in simple styles and colours. Look out for loose linen jackets, wooden boxes and leather pouches. Either the Aoyama or Daikanyama branches.
6 Outdoors brands: Snow Peak, Nanga and everyone else
Walking round Omotesando, one can’t help but notice how many outdoors brands there are. Everyone has a big flagship, North Face and Patagonia, Japanese specialists like Snow Peak and Nanga.
The non-Japanese brands often have products that are only available here too, or there are labels that are the result of licensing deals, like North Face Purple Label that is actually owned by Goldwin, the clothing conglomerate that also has its own store.
BESPOKE MAKERS
Some of the finest bespoke makers of menswear are in Japan, despite usually learning their trade in Europe. These are some of the best, though do be aware it’s necessary (or at least polite) to make an appointment.
1 Shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Seiji McCarthy, Marquess
Japan has a huge number of bespoke shoemakers, perhaps more than the whole of Europe combined. They are largely young, working in small workshops, and good value for money – though the small size can mean there are long waiting times. Most importantly, their quality is amazing, often excelling those European masters they learnt from.
There are too many to try and recommend any specifically, but it is certainly worth trying to see Yohei Fukuda, Seiji McCarthy and Shoji Kawaguchi, the latter operating under the brand Marquess. More on them at those links, and generally on Japanese shoemakers here.
2 Tailors: Sartoria Ciccio, Anglofilo and others
There aren’t quite as many new tailors as shoemakers in Japan, but the quality of the work is still very high. They’re largely influenced by the soft tailoring of the south of Italy, although some also trained in Florence or Milan. English influence is felt only in the older, more traditional tailors.
The best known is Noriyuki Ueki, who runs Sartoria Ciccio. He trained in Naples and cuts a soft-shouldered suit with a Japanese level of precision. Others include Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica and Vick Tailor. You can read more about them here.
3 Trouser makers: Igarashi and Osaku
There are a couple of workshops specialising in bespoke trousers worth highlighting: Igarashi and Osaku. Of these two, Igarashi is in the centre of Tokyo and is therefore easier to visit. Osaku works from a small town outside of the city, and comes in for appointments.
There is a similar level of precision to their work as there is with the rest of Japanese craft, and a focus on details such as curved waistbands and neat pick stitching. More on them here.
NON-MENSWEAR
Those wishing to see traditional Japanese craft in Tokyo should consider visiting Motoji, the most famous of the kimono makers in the city. Although none of the work is done on-site (fabric is produced all round Japan, and tailoring done outside the city), the shop, its bolts of cloth and finished kimonos are a virtual museum of craft in themselves.
2 Chicago kimonos
The other way to experience kimonos is much cheaper – go to a second-hand shop like Chicago in Harajuku. There you will see a range of pre-owned pieces from the seventies to the present day, as well as all the types and parts of men’s and women’s kimono.
The fact there are outer jackets, inner layers and even short ceremonial jackets, means there’s likely to be something for everyone. I bought a beautiful seventies olive silk kimono for £65.
3 Cow Books and Tsutaya books
Tsutaya is a chain of bookstores, but the one in Daikanyama is really lovely – there are few better places to understand how much the Japanese love printed material, with a huge variety of coffee-table books and magazines.
Cow Books, in Nakameguro, is an second-hand bookstore that specialises in the arts and counter-culture works, but also has a surprisingly large range of fashion titles, including old copies of magazines like Popeye. If you like magazines, Magnif Zinebocho on the other side of town is also worth visiting.
4 Ubukeya knives and Edoya brushes
Two lovely shops that are close together, specialising in Japanese knives and brushes. As in a lot of more traditional stores, there is little English among the staff, but that isn’t really needed to understand the product, and if you’re after something particular then pointing and playacting usually do the job.
If one is more than six feet tall then these stores a mostly off limits.
Very interesting roundup, thank you! Notwithstanding the flexibility offered by bespoke, are there RTW sizing options for taller, wider western frames in Japan?
Great list Simon !
You forget probably the best stores in Tokyo, United Arrows and their sartorial shop, The Sovereign House…. ; )
Best,
Akim
Sovereign House is good, yes. I rather thought I had too many department stores on the list already though
It is a pity, but the Sovereign House at Marunouchi near Tokyo station area was closed a couple years ago…
Was it really? I’m sorry HS, I didn’t try and visit this time. Do you know if it’s being moved, renamed or just completely closed, and where the artisans that were based there have gone?
Dear Simon,
Unfortunately, it is true. I am based in Tokyo and was one of Sovereign House’s customers.
“Sovereign” now continues as one of United Arrows’ own brand name, and there is a small pop-up shop in the United Arrows store in Roppongi Hills that is a kind of replica of the old Sovereign House. However, it seems to me to be quite different from the atomsphere of Sovereign House. Of course the shop is lovely, though. So I would say that Sovereign House is lost.
https://www.instagram.com/thesovereignhouse/
Thank you HS, what a shame
There is a probem with Asian sizes for tall westerners – like me – for anything off the peg, but this is not a problem in many of these stores which have alteration tailors on hand, e.g. Brycelands. The bespoke shoe market is probably the most interesting aspect of Tokyo menswear – a veritable boom. I ordered a pair from Yohei Fukuda in March and was very impressed with his operation, and level of service. We spent an hour discussing shoes, and other matters, in his charming atelier. I imagine the finished product will be very special indeed, and at around half the price of Lobb, Cleverley etc, could be considered a bargain.
By the way Simon I am working on an article for the Japan Times about Fukuda and the bespoke shoe scene here, and Permanent Style will get a mention. If it’s published, of course.
Thanks Phil, very kind
I find the problem for the western man shopping in Japan is not so much height as breadth of chest and shoulders. I am only 5’10” and 73 kg, but anything other than XL is too narrow across my chest and shoulders.
Couldn’t agree more. At 185cm and 90kg, my choices here in Japan are heartbreakingly limited.
Yep, that old chestnut. I used to work in Osaka and I’m a 190cm 94 kg former rugby player. Nothing, I mean nothing off the shelf would fit me so I had to resort to MTM. The service has always been great. Big shutout to the Ring jacket store , the guys there were always superb and would even order larger sizes for me if I told them that I would be coming along in a couple of weeks. Also Starssburgo was always great ( and a bit cheaper than Ring).
I couldn’t agree more that Tokyo is just the best city for menswear worldwide. It is especially even more true for smaller guys like myself (5’9″) where small sizes are plentiful.
I particularly loved the many concepts at Beams and United Arrows. The selection is very different based on which shop you visit. Beams Ginza and Beams Marunouchi don’t have at all the same vibe. And as for United Arrows, the Sovereign House store in Ginza is rather impressive I’ve found.
Sovereign House is in Marunouchi, and despite Simon’s note, it isn’t a department store. It’s a brand of United Arrows — a “select shop” in Japanese retail parlance.
You’re right, of course. Part of the confusion is that department stores used to have actual departments, rather than being collections of brands, but few are anymore. And of course a select shop in Japan is a boutique carrying a collection of brands. I guess today ‘department store’ indicates scale more than anything else.
MTM is the way to go in Tokyo. Beams, United Arrows, Tomorrowland, Strasburgo, Isetan Mens, Hankyu Mens, and Azabu Tailor and its many imitators will do you very good MTM in any fabric on earth, in less than a month, at a small markup over RTW — making it a sin to buy RTW at full price. True bespoke is hard to find, expensive (everyone clocks in right at $4,000), takes forever (6 months), and you can’t get the same access to fabrics. But you’ll get nice buttonholes.
Though it’s not cheap by any standard, Ciccio is an amazing tailor
Arts & Science has some pretty out-there labels by PS standards, I would expect—I know they stock Maurizio Altieri’s m_moria shoes, and I believe they’ve collaborated with Maurizio Amadei (of MA+).
Simon I notice from the comments that RTW and bespoke shoes seem well priced in Japan, can you shed any light on price expectations – thank you.
Bespoke certainly is – look up my feature on Yohei, Shoji and others. All the prices are there.
RTW from them is also good, but anything imported (English, Italian) is not.
For some reason that I’ve not been able to fathom, Italian shoes generally aren’t so outrageously priced in Japan. Also, quite a few decent Japanese stores have private-label shoes made for them by Italian makers, and they can be both high-quality and affordable – the biggest issue will be finding your size, as many stores won’t stock much at all over a UK9. However, UK and US shoes are typically far, far more expensive in Japanese than elsewhere and so are not worth buying, unless on deep discount during sale season.
Nothing beats Tokyo for shipping. Can’t wait to go back
Thanks Simon, though not helpful to have yen only prices. Suggest ‘at time of publication ¥300k =………’ etc. Fyi current rate is ¥100k = gbp £700. So, roughly, ¥350k = £2,450 for a pair of bespoke shoes but, as in UK does that include last, if so does second commission therefore see a reduction?
I prefer not to include conversions as exchange rates change constantly, domestic prices more slowly.
Yes, it includes last and no, there generally isn’t a reduction for the second pair.
Hi Simon
A music folio style case appeals to me and I wonder, does the Swaine Adeney Music Case compare with the Ortus music bag, or is the latter at a higher point craftsmanship wise?
It is at a higher craftsmanship level, yes, specifically all being hand sewn
Simon,
What hotel did you stay at in Tokyo? Would you recommend it?
Thanks,
S
Not really… Sorry
Thanks. Would be good to know which what it was so I can stay away?
Thanks,
S
I can look up the details, but it wasn’t bad, just not particularly special or worth recommending. And there are hundreds of hotels in Tokyo. I recommend finding the area you want to stay in first, rather than the hotel, as it is a very big city and lovely to be walking distance to some things.
Thanks. What district did you stay in?
Ginza
It depends where you want to be—Tokyo is huge. In Shibuya I stayed at Cerulean Tower Tokyu up on 34 floor. It’s a good location—Harajuka, its own fashion scene, and Shinjuku nearby. Also near a few of the shops Simon recommends—e.g. Brycelans and Solakzde. Also, the Yen is relatively dear now…
Hello,
What is the price of a basic Ring Suit in store in Japan vs. online/US retailers? It seems the majority of their suits are in the ~$2000 range online and in the US retailers that stock Ring Jacket. What is the cost in Japan? Much thanks.
Just a textual comment, in case some of your readers try to look up the place – the boulevard in Aoyama with all the retail is called Omotesando, rather than Ometasando.
Thank you – I’ll correct that now
Simon
Not a Tokyo but a London Q!
I have an interview next week, I need a dark blue suit (not something I currently own). Clearly I don’t have time to get MTM, as an emergency measure where can I go for RTW (obviously caveated by the fact that you don’t use these places etc). Hackett? RL?
It’s so hard to know, it’s been so long… Maybe see if Anglo-Italian has something?
Thanks… if not will be going to Hackett or RL… not ideal re make but relatively tasteful.
I was just about to recommend Anglo Italian! They have some lovely suits off the peg and can tailor to fit very quickly.
Hello Simon. Off topic but was wondering what your impressions were of the EG Shanklin in suede after more than a year of wear?
Very good. Super soft, and worn in well. Not that formal, but would certainly recommend
Hello Simon,
Maybe it is time to update the Sartorial guide for other cities too?
I am sure there are many new additions in New York, Paris, Stockholm and London.
Thank you.
Thanks, yes I will do that gradually over time – when I’ve visited them and have some personal recommendations to make. I’m in Paris in a couple of weeks, for example, and in New York in October.
Thanks for the suggestion
As Tokyo born and raised, my personal recommendations in Tokyo are
Brycelands&Co (Omote-sando)
Cathedral (Ginza)
ANSNAM (Shirokane-dai)
THE H.W.DOG&CO (Harajuku)
Minami Shirts (Nihon-bashi)
Thank you
Some great finds there Simon. Would you have any experience with bespoke or MTM eyewear in Tokyo? I was told there are some very high quality makers there, but have yet to come across them.
No, sorry
Thank you Simon for this review. I’ve visited some of the stores you recommend, they are all worth the visit although european sizes are a rare breed 🙂 .
Simon,
Going to be in Tokyo for just a few days and need to pick up a traditional fine quality overcoat. Any suggestions?
Not for ready to wear, no sorry. The department stores are pretty amazing though, so check them all out.
There is another appointment only super high fashion men’s and women’s store in Tokyo that I’m searching for. Any help?
Thanks!
Hi Simon, I was wondering if you list a few Japanese bespoke tailors who visit London for trunk shows.
I don’t currently know of any I’m afraid, Ali. It’s one of the problems with Japanese artisans in general
I lived in Japan for 16 years and found it really, really hard to find clothes that fit. In fact, I generally made my purchases in the States when visiting. And I am not a big person at all by American standards – 6ft tall and slim – yet I ALWAYS had trouble finding anything that fit my shoulders and chest. Once I went to get an MRI, the technician couldn’t take a complete scan because my shoulders were wider than the device could handle.
Hi Simon, I’m heading to Tokyo on Friday. Could you share with me your top spots to visit based on your recent trip? Looking for some casual wear recommendations.
Hey GD,
I’m working on a full article with these, but in brief I’d say:
– 45R, the best indigo and wonderful company
– Beams shops, always brands you don’t see elsewhere, and unique versions of products
– Vintage in Harajuku and Koenji, places like Berbejin, Fake Alpha, Banana Boat, the Safari stores in Koenji
– The Real McCoys store and similar workwear stores, Freewheelers etc
– Brycelands, obviously
– Solakzade vintage sunglasses
– Chicago for vintage kimonos and all kinds of clothing related to them
Since you mentioned Freewheelers, Simon, have you tried out their jeans offering? The 51s cut in particular, mid rise with a slight taper. I am very happy with them, but I don’t remember you ever mentioning them before.
No I haven’t, sorry Rodrigo. Interested to hear you like them though, and the cut sounds good
A superb guide, thanks so much Simon and all those who helped you to build it. I have a work retreate in Tokyo in September and this guide will be so useful for planning my down-time.
A small question – do shoe stores usually stock larger sizes, or do they max-out at around a UK 10? This is a problem i have had when buying shoes from shops here in China, as well as buying Japanese-made shoes in the UK.
Thanks again.
No worries John.
To be honest I only know that they have up to a 9 for me – I didn’t tend to ask about larger sizes. But I do think it’s an issue there as well.
Cheers for the update to an already comprehensive list, Simon. A perfect point of reference that will come in handy for my Tokyo trip year after next.
I’m a huge fan of Tokyo, like many people are. And like many other people I’m too large for many off the rack jackets (Tailored and otherwise), and long-sleeve shirts are bad for me too (38.5 inch sleeve). But a few brands over there have served me fine in their largest sizes. I have a pair of Sugar Cane jeans from Hinoya (which also had rain coats that fit me, but I didn’t buy).
Like you, I adored the Tsutaya bookshop at the T-site (that whole shopping area is lovely) and is certainly my favourite bookshop in the world. On the way home from Tokyo, half my luggage was filled with bubble-wrapped Nakata hangers. It really is a destination shopping experience. So much more than anyone can possibly cover.
I live near Koenji and as a long-time reader, it’s funny to think I could have bumped into you on the street Simon! Agree Safari is great (all of them) not only for shopping but as a way to find a new home for all the well-loved clothes I’ve sized out of.
I believe Noriyuki Higashi goes by Sartoria Raffaniello now, you may want to update that bit.
Great, thank you Ryotaro, yes you’re right I’ll update that now
For workwear there is also Junky Special in Shinjuku, halfway between Shin-Ōkubo and Shinjuku stations, who carry a fabulous selection of Buzz Rickson’s and its sister brands like Sugar Cane: racks upon racks of limited edition stuff I haven’t seen anywhere online. The staff speak good English.
Thanks Peter
Do you know of any Japanese companies selling good pyjamas?
No specialists, but I would go to the department stores first – they will definitely have options, and they will definitely be a higher-quality range than the UK department stores
My tastes have moved on from most of Time Worn Clothing / At Last & Co / Butcher Products but visiting the shop was a great experience, perhaps helped by the staff member who used to work at Vintage Showroom in London being there (circa 2018).
Would definitely seek them out if into workwear because they are probably the best of that repro style and almost have a Goro’s level of elusiveness.
Waiting to fly out of Narita as I type… Upon your recommendation I visited Solakzade last week. Cool guys and a very cool young lady. I bought a pair of Christian Roth fly (wrap) sunnies from the 1990s—dead stock, methinks.
Whilst there one of your readers from London popped in to also buy something (Hi Sam). We had a lovely chat while being serviced. I showed them specific images of what I was looking for while Sam appeared content to let them decide what suited him best. An hour later I left feeling joyful, which is unusual for me. All good people.
Amazing. That’s so, so lovely to hear Fred. Wish I’d been there with you both!
Hi Simon, this is another super article!
I do look forward eventually to a possible new update on London outlets, particularly on the bespoke side …. new artisans, shoemakers…..new tailors of which there must be several that could yet be included eventually…..new casual or specialist shops…new talent!!!
Thanks Lindsay, will do
I can vouch for Nakata Hangers, a thing of beauty and great to support your suits.
Hi Simon,
What are your thoughts on loafers with a business suit I.e EG picadilly
I have always worn lace ups/ oxfords but my love of the loafer is taking over….
Thanks!
Absolutely fine. You’d have to be in a very conservative office these days for a black calf loafer to seem too informal
Hi Simon – any experience with / impressions of Kamakura Shirts in terms of value / quality?
Best regards
Robert
I know people that wear them and they seem solid quality, but can’t speak so much to the value or more extensively on quality
Hi Simon – any reason for not listing bespoke shoemakers Main d’Or and Orma?
There are lots of bespoke makers I’ve left out, though mostly shoemakers. There would be too many to include really, that’s all, and the point of a shopping guide is a little more the shops than the bespoke as well. So I’ve only mentioned the ones I know best
I’ve heard good things about Edoya brushes, but there aren’t many reviews available. Have you had experience with their brushes?
I haven’t, I’m afraid. I’ve only visited the store and had them recommended by a friend
as far as I know the store closed.
Thanks so much for the update – I was in Tokyo in October and sad to see UES had closed. I’m back in August – it would be amazing if the links above had Google maps links – I like to add them into the map so when I’m walking around I don’t miss the shops.
Noted, thanks Benjamin.
Seems like a never-ending list and somehow for menswear Japan can really be the ultimate rabbithole.
As an idea for next time: maybe focus on a route instead of just listing up shops? Aoyama to Meguro is a bit of a stretch, whereas you can easily spend a full day in just one neighbourhood, if you add in a nice lunch of coffee break.
Thanks. Yes it was a hard choice between breaking this up by area or by type of shop. We went with the latter in the end, because we felt we were covering so many types. But for an upcoming one on LA, which is also very disparate, it will be done by area
Hi Simon and thanks for this great guide, very helpful on a recent trip
In the work wear and casual categories, I think readers might appreciate these 3 additional suggestions:
1. Bears in Shimokitazawa. Small shop but with a surprisingly extensive selection of Japanese jeans (with some other workwear pieces) from multiple brands e.g. Samurai, Full Count, Sugar Cane, Warehouse, FOB, Denime, etc.
2. Americaya in Ueno. Similar to Bears, but a larger shop and a more extensive selection esp. in non-jeans categories.
I have always had more success in Bears and Americaya vs. going to the brands’ individual shops, due to being able to try and compare models from several brands. I think it may only be D’artisan that you won’t find in the above shops? Both will hem jeans for free if needed.
Lastly:
3. Va-Va in Omotesando. Carried the largest selection of Doek canvas shoes I found in any one shop.
Cheers,
Gus
Thank you Gus, that’s very useful
Hi Simon,
I just came back from an holiday trip in Japan.
Your city guide was really good and I wanted to thank you.
I bought some pieces in a lot of store (eg, the real mccoys which is extra-ordinary, arts&science…) and notably Solakzade. I bought two vintage frames and jewellery as well (with a potential on-going bespoke project for a necklace). The shop and the two brothers are really special.
I would like to share an address that the owner of fake alpha (excellent vintage store) shared with me. It is « the little reata » in Tokyo. The owner has a superb selection of very well curated vintage americana. You should visit next time. My understanding from fake alpha is that the guy is quite a legend in his field (same comment from the Solakzade brothers) Fyi the store is really small (so he has only super high end pieces) and the owner does not speak english at all.
Other and last brand I would like to share: Momotaro for jeans, a brand i love. I paid a visit to the headquarter in Kojima (the city of jeans) lovely to visit.
Cheers from France!
LaurentB
Thank you Laurent, that’s very useful (for me and for everyone else!)
Cheers
Simon, do you have any suggestions for makers for leather jackets in Tokyo?
No, sorry
Question for Simon or for anyone who would know: do any of these stock larger sizes? I’m going to be in Tokyo in a couple months but, unfortunately, I take a 44-46 jacket and 38-40 trousers. Thank you!
Most won’t go up that big unfortunately, no AK. But you can look at some of them online first and see what the sizes go up to, in case that helps
I visited L and Harmony back in March 2023 and was impressed by the range of selection. When I went back in December 2023, the shop seemed to be temporarily closed until further notice. Worth taking a note if anyone is planning for a visit
Ok, thanks for letting us know Dharm