I’ve never actively disliked T-shirts under tailoring. I just tend not to wear them myself and, when I have seen them worn, I think it can be done quite badly.
Done well, wearing a T-shirt rather than a collared shirt can pleasingly subvert the formal expectations of tailoring.
Done badly, it looks like someone trying much too hard to be cool. They’re clearly striving - obviously, consciously - and that’s rarely a good look.
One helpful way to think about it, I find, is to treat the T-shirt like a crewneck sweater.
So get a T-shirt that is knitted together (fully fashioned) like knitwear, so the collar will look smarter. And wear colours that are similar to knitwear that works well on its own - cream, navy, grey, brown - as well as standard white.
(There’s a feature on those knitwear colours here. We need to think of a phrase for knitwear worn like this though, on its own, without a shirt collar. Perhaps ‘solo’ knitwear?)
In fact, there’s no reason it couldn’t just be a sweater under the jacket.
In fine-gauge merino, it would be just as thin as a T-shirt but look smarter. And the long sleeves could avoid that strange feeling of having bare wrists peeking out of jacket cuffs.
In the outfit above, I’m wearing a navy Anthology cotton T-shirt under the DB blazer. Navy on navy is the easiest combination there is of ‘solo’ knitwear and a jacket, and the T-shirt looks quite smart, being knitted.
But looking at it now, the look would have been even cleaner with a fine merino crewneck. The collar line would have been finer, and the body smoother. A cashmere could be nice in the winter as well.
I think it’s generally good advice when wearing a T-shirt under a jacket to stick with one of two extremes. Either this smart look of mine - where the T-shirt is basically doing the same role as a formal shirt - or something more casual like Yasuto Kamoshita wears above and below.
With the casual look, it’s less that you’re swapping a shirt for a knit, and more that you’re wearing a T-shirt and chinos - just with a jacket on top in the same material.
This is why those suits are often cotton. The T-shirt may be plain, but it can also be coloured or patterned. It’s more likely to be worn in the summer. And the shoes will be similarly casual, either Belgians or trainers.
I like Kamoshita's colour combination below (even if I want to tuck that T-shirt in) and it can also work well with completely unstructured suits, like the Drake’s Games blazer below.
One thing I didn’t notice until I started thinking about this piece, is how many well-dressed men do this look with double-breasted jackets. I thought I was largely alone in thinking that worked better than single-breasted.
It does make sense though. It’s subtler when a relatively small amount of T-shirt is shown, which is inevitable with a DB jacket.
Something else that can help is wearing a scarf under the jacket, to fill the neckline. This also adds a touch of dressiness, and is something you could add for a smarter appointment, like drinks outside on a warm Summer evening.
My favourite pieces for this are my silk Hermes scarves, one of which is shown below. This is also more effective with a double-breasted jacket than single.
Adding a pocket handkerchief would also add some interest.
Most other points will be pure intuition to PS readers - or at least, obvious once they look in the mirror.
You don’t want a white T-shirt that’s so thin it's transparent. Oddly, that seems to be a mistake celebrities often make.
Those actors also have a tendency to wear V-necks, which have the same problem as thin tees: they make you look like you’re wearing underwear. And in any case, unless you have a particularly strong neck and shoulders, a crewneck will be more flattering.
Lastly, don’t worry about getting the collar of the jacket dirty - something often put to me as the main problem with this look.
Unless you’re wearing it every week, or do so with only pale-coloured jackets, it won’t be a problem. And any small blemishes can be dealt with by dry cleaning.
Having played around with it, I think I might wear T-shirts under tailoring more. But I’ll wear knitted tees more than regular ones, and knitwear colours more than T-shirt ones. Both will make a difference.
If I’m honest, I also thought a T-shirt under a jacket would be less flattering on my long neck. But the high collar of the jacket actually means a T-shirt (or crewneck knitwear) looks better on me than otherwise.
Another good candidate will be double-breasted casual suits, such as my Musella Dembech suit.
Clothes pictured:
- Navy knitted-cotton T-shirt from The Anthology
- Bespoke vintage-wool/cashmere jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni (a recent addition, exact same cut as my vintage cotton)
- ‘Mink’ 13oz Holland & Sherry whipcords (9518502, Dakota bunch) made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
- Black-suede Sagans from Baudoin & Lange
- Silk carré from Hermes
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Despite my initial scepticism I’m persuaded that t-shirts can look good with tailoring. Nevertheless I think mostly jackets look better with collars. The links to “knitwear colours” and your earlier Caraceni jacket illustrate this well. In each case I think the with-collar look is better than how I imagine the without-collar look would be. I can see that if one regularly wears tailoring casually then it’s nice to have variety, but as some one who wears it infrequently I’ll keep to odd jackets plus Oxford shirts or Friday polos rather than investing in knitted t-shirts and cotton suits.
I enjoyed the article. It’s nice to have ones biases overturned (occasionally).
Spot on Dominic, and nicely expressed. It’s largely about variety, about another potential style. It’s not what I wear the vast majority of the time, as noted, but it is a nice option, and when I do do it, this is how I would.
Hi Simon
T-shirts under jackets. A fine balance between looking completely contrived and looking like you got dressed in the dark!
Yasuto Kamoshita is one of the few people who can pull it off. Hoops under a cotton blazer has a vintage/ artistic vibe , that I have also seen elsewhere. That for me is the the only way to go or leave it alone.
Useful to raise the options around this look. I’ll be interested to see what other regular readers think.
Great article
T shirt with tailoring looks good when done like this – so often it’s jeans, un-ironed t and an odd suit jacket. In the early 1990s when I remember wearing t-shirts with suits it seemed much more daring though as (in the real world) suits were always worn with collars and ties.
But would you go so far as pastel linen suits and pink/ turquoise t shirts? Testarossa entirely at your discretion….
Hello Simon, thank you again for a very interesting article!
But I had another question, would you be kind enough to share the name/pattern of the Hermès scarf?
Hi Tom,
Sure, that’s Robe Du Soir. Bear in mind, of course, that Hermes designs are rarely available for more than a couple of seasons.
The two photos showing striped t-shirts point to a third option to consider in your conclusions. Wear a marinière. They are widely available with long sleeves and there is something intangible about stripes that simply “works” under a jacket (though a bit less so if it’s double-breasted).
True, that is a really nice option
I have to agree, marine inspired shirts work well! Armor Lux has some nice long sleeve shirts in their heritage collection, made from a soft cotton/linen mix. For me it works well with a DB jacket…
What is the source of the image with the gray striped jacket and the yellow/white leaf print scarf? This is second from the bottom in the post.
That’s Drake’s. It’s a flannel chalkstripe suit, with the T-shirt effectively complimented by a scarf
Interesting.
Personally I think this is one of those ‘looks’ where you have to be completely honest with yourself regarding your physique and age.
It just never looks good on tall guys. They invariably finish up looking like nightclub bouncers or someone who has lost their luggage.
For some reason Asian guys (as illustrated above) with very relaxed tailoring and creative T-shirts make it look good as does the black man with the grey beard (albeit I suspect he may look good in anything).
Unfortunately Simon, your image just doesn’t cut it. You are the wrong size. You are too tall and your neck is too long.
Also, I think that as one ages, unless one maintains a very youthful and playful style – with the exception of the beach and tennis court – it’s best not to head out without a collar or something around your neck.
Thanks David, appreciated as always.
I was concerned about my neck too, but I think actually it works because of the neck of the jacket. It’s that much higher at the back than a normal T-shirt or crewneck would be on me, and so more flattering. That said, a collared shirt will always be more flattering on me, but of course that’s always only one factor.
I don’t understand what height has to do with it. All tall guys have to wear collars? Makes no sense to me.
It’s a question of dimensions. Not everything suits everybody.
I am inclined to agree with David’s last statement; as a man ages, his neck becomes the least attractive part of his physique. That’s probably why, even before the advent of neckties, men wore ascots, cravats, Elizabethan collars, etc.
I think most men look better without an Elizabethan collar, but that’s just a personal opinion.
First, that is wonderful jacket. One of the best I have seen on you. I did not think Italian, more British.
I think you could have buttoned the jacket on the lower button to match the casualness of the look.
I wear long sleeve Zimmerli shirts with DB jackets. I do so for comfort more than style. Looking at the photos, I feel something is missing wearing just a t-shirt under jackets, even if it is a look I do myself.
Could a t-shirt be made, long sleeves, with a mandarin collar with only a very very minimal v opening to wear under jackets? Would that work? I find the missing shirt collar is the main esthetic problem.
Looking forward to jacket review.
Hi Feurich,
Thanks on the jacket. It is exactly the same as my previous, cotton DB from Ferdinando Caraceni, so I wouldn’t necessarily do a full article on it – only the cloth is different. But you can look that one up if you want more on the style or make. The Milanese style can look more English to some, but it is rather more lightweight.
I’m not sure I’d like a Mandarin collar in that style, personally. I’d be more likely to go with a polo shirt or perhaps a mock neck if I wanted something between a tee and a collared shirt.
I completely agree on the jacket, a stunner!
I’m with Limekiln with this. The mariniere is excellent under tailoring. Orcival have excellent ones. The mariniere blanc (copy of the French Navy mariniere) has large areas of white – so isn’t overpoweringly stripey,- just be careful of the usual very slim French fit.
Thank you for another article, Simon. I was specially looking forward for this one as a guide to wear more tailoring in the ultra casual environment I live and work.
One comment and one question.
I believe that double breasted jackets from my view end up being more flattering option to the t-shirt specially when used open, in a way that does not emphasise “precision” from a tailored garment and giving the impression more roomy and comfortable. I particularly like how Shuhei Nishiguchi does it with a similar navy DB as yours and black t-shirt.
What would be your advice on patterns/texture with using jacket swith t-shirts? From my impression, the jackets should to be casual (as you said) but with no pattern, ideally plain. Is this something you feel too?
Kind regards,
Tamaki
I think it helps if the tailoring is more casual, yes Tamaki. Though if the tee is smart – dark, knitted, as here – then the tailoring can be quite smart too. I guess I wouldn’t wear the look here with a worsted suit though.
And yes, often better without heavy texture or pattern.
Stating the obvious, another consideration is the type of jacket and the way the collar falls on the neck. A flatter jacket with less structure works better with a T-shirt as there is no void where the shirt collar should be.
I think the Colhays merino sport shirts you featured a few weeks ago would work well with these looks. What do you think of the olive, below? Good solo-knitwear color? I think it would be. Not quite as strong as navy. Unlikely to be wearing it elsewhere. Muted and versatile.
https://colhays.com/collections/ss21-collection-vintage-british-sportswear/products/merino-sport-shirt-in-olive
Yes you’re right, they would. And I think the olive would be very good – as you say, not as easy as navy, and perhaps cream, but a good second or third
Thanks! To clarify, when I referred to navy as “strong,” I didn’t necessarily mean navy would be a top choice. I meant it as you meant it in this piece (https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/01/what-are-the-best-knitwear-colours-under-tailoring.html), when you noted that, because navy is a rich color, it doesn’t work well under other rich colors “or earthy colours like brown and beige.” I love wearing brown and beige jackets, so if it’s true that navy knitwear won’t look good beneath them, then it’s not a good choice for me. Again, I’m not sure I agree with you that navy knitwear is a poor match for brown/beige jackets. But to the extent it is, I thought opting for olive over navy might fix the problem.
Ah, I see. Yes navy is useful but only because guys have so many navy and grey jackets, which it does look good under
Hey Simon,
I happen to really like this outfit on you. While the jacket is a standout, the navy t-shirt is just the right shade of navy and both work brilliantly with the trousers. You’re right in your observation that when done badly, this can look like someone TRYING too hard to look cool. But when done well, it looks effortlessly cool. When I lived in London back in the early 2000s I used to see Paul Weller roaming around Mayfair sporting this look a lot, and he certainly couldn’t be accused of not looking cool. I say relax, embrace it and stick to the colours you know will work. I actually really like the more smart casual outfits you’re tending towards these days. It strikes me as a sign of confidence that you know what works, and when and how mess with the rules. I also thinks it shows you can be unfussy with you tailoring and extend its use.
Tim.
Great article as always Simon.
Shuhei Nishigushi is a master at wearing a t-shirt under tailoring, being a mariniere or a plain T.
I would say that a more casual DB jacket looks best in that instance, and can even modernize the gold-button navy DB blazer from its old-mannish look
Btw Simon, would you happen to know what blazer it is on the last photo ? DB, gold buttons, looks like cotton.
Thanks
It’s from Drake’s, but not the current season I’m afraid
One other question: I think you’ve said repeatedly that knitwear is not meant to be tucked in, and doesn’t look great when it is. So why tuck in the knitted tee? I guess the idea is the tee is less bulky, so doesn’t look as odd tucked in.
I still rarely would – I’d only do so under a jacket, to make that waistline nice and clean. It could look odd without the jacket, and yes definitely, not with anything remotely chunky.
There are times when the phrase “ just don’t “is appropriate and this is one of them. This looks contrived and, as you note Simon, smacks of trying to look cool. Also wearing a silk scarf with a tee and jacket borders on the effeminate which should be avoided. This is another example of why PS is fantastic: showing different looks and ideas and letting readers decide what works for them and what doesn’t.
Nice to have one negative! I knew it would get some strong reactions
Yes sir! While I’m negative on the look obviously, I do appreciate the post and ensuing discussion.
Nice, pleased to hear it
I have to agree with Scott here (although I don’t really understand the ‘rule’ that effeminate looks should be avoided – what on earth does that mean? ) I just really don’t like the t-shirts under a jacket look. It looks forced and alien to me. The DB jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni is divine though! Interesting post in any event
Hi Jan. I believe that men should always dress in a masculine manner, whether in dress or casual clothes. Therefore, I avoid any clothing combinations that are or border on effeminate. Of course this can be somewhat subjective, but usually it’s very straightforward and clear what’s effeminate and what isn’t.
same here
good thing is that we can only expect better things for the future
i dont get the obsession of the menswear scene with SUBVERTING everything
Thanks for the view Ezequiel.
I don’t think you’re trying that hard to understand why some men want to subvert tailoring? It obviously has associations of being traditional, of being stuffy, of being formal, and that’s not how many people want to look. And consumers and designers have been doing that successfully with tailoring for a long time, from Armani onwards.
I don’t think tees under tailoring particularly subversive – arty types have been doing it for at least 50 years
I’ve never liked the fact the the collar of a jacket is in direct contact with skin and have therefor avoided wearing a t-shirt under a tailored jacket. What are your thoughts on this?
I discuss it at the end of the article
I’ve never been worried about staining for the reasons you mention but I do find I need the jacket to be soft if the collar’s in contact with my neck. I’ve tried this with my mohair suit and with a lovely vintage jacket in a very heavy twill and it was just too uncomfortable. With an ultra-light unlined summer blazer I got from Uniqlo to wear onstage with my band it feels fine. Fairly obvious I guess but before trying it, it hadn’t occurred to me how rough a jacket collar can feel again your neck.
Good point Tommy
Hey Simon – are you aware of any good cotton mockneck shirts or jumpers? I have been wanting to try some under a jacket as a midpoint between a rollneck and a t-shirt.
I’m not I’m afraid, but it’s not a style I wear much so I’m not a great one to ask.
We did cover mock necks in an article here, and I highlighted those from Colhay’s, Loro Piana and Michael Browne, all of which are great, but none are cotton.
Consider taking a look at Adret’s Instagram. They do a very nice cotton mock neck.
Ah yes, good point. Thanks Chris
Miami Vice goes Mayfair. While the jacket and shirt are great on their own, the combination is a bit too “high-low” for my taste. I get the explanation for a DB jacket but I wonder if a single breasted version in a brighter, more casual fabric would be produce a more congruent look.
Hi Simon, will you add your picture to your comment ident?
Yes, not sure why that isn’t working at the moment
Really not a good look for pale guys with long, skinny necks such as myself. And even though I’m sure the dry cleaner can get out any sweat-related stains around the collar, I’d hate to send my suits/jackets to the cleaner more than once per year.
Looks good on certain guys, but I’d rather go casual by wearing a dark polo under a dark suit.
Well Don Johnson used to carry it off quite well too:
Yeah… Odd how so many people wear the look with a thin T-shirt that looks like underwear
A solid (i.e. nonpatterned) suit over a solid tee is one of my favorite casual outfits. Super smart and crisp without looking like you just came from the office. I’m not a fan of the bare wrist look and roll the sleeves up a lot, so I prefer suits in casual fabrics that can stand up to it. Never double-breasteds though; look strange to me.
Dear Simon,
T-shirts under a jacket are simply a bad functional choice.
With a t-shirt the skin of your neck, with its oils, flakes, lotions, sweat and more is directly in contact with your wildly expensive jacket, which will lead to lost of damaging and expensive cleaning.
In contrast with a shirt collar, this protects the jacket, and the shirt you wash every use in any event.
I guess you could get round this with a the shirt with a high collar or a scarf, or with a jacket that you can put in the washing machine.
But overall it just seems a bad idea.
Thanks Fred, yes I touch on that at the end. I’ve never found it a problem on dark-coloured jackets – no sign of staining, no smell etc. But I also don’t sweat that much
I suppose for a London summer!
But it seems the look sends a summery message, so I can imagine hotter climes, with suntan lotion and so. Where I am gets to 40c or so this time of year.
I do like your jacket. And thanks as ever for getting us thinking.
Can do it with plain pocket tee with suit jacket?
No, probably not. A suit jacket is unlikely to work on its own anyway – presuming it’s a fairly smart wool. And a knitted T-shirt is much easier than a normal one, pocket or not.
A pocket tee might be OK with a casual cotton suit, but it’s harder.
Dear Simon,
inspiring article and great to read! I like the cut of Anthology’s T-shirt, but it has to be ordered from Hong-Kong. Maybe you are able to give a recommendation placed in Europe? I guess Colhays sport shirt would work well, but they are overpriced in my eyes.
Colhays is not really overprice, it’s just different – you’re buying a sweater, not a T-shirt. Same material, same make. In that context it’s still a lot of money but a much closer the average. Does that make sense?
Berg & Berg has some, but I haven’t tried them. Also Thom Sweeney has a white one. John Smedley also sells them still I think, but those also feel quite stiff in the seams to me, and restrictive.
Dear Simon, thank you for your reply. Yes, it makes sense, from the perspective that the knitted T is not comparable to a classic T-shirt…
I think I’d agree that stripes really work here – it seems significant that they feature in all three photographs of Mr Kamoshita – two on the Ts and one on the jacket. I also feel it works best with very relaxed tailoring – the spalla camacia of his DB makes it look intentional rather than a hasty swap following an accident with a bowl of pasta or ramen on the way to the photoshoot. The discussion below of the supposed ‘femininity’ of some styles made me think that, by contrast, this look works best on women when the tailoring is very structured and contrasts with a T in much lighter fabric. Perhaps it’s similar to the reason why I tend to think women look better in trench-coats than men?
I think, to be honest, most tailoring and things we discuss just look great on women. The two main reasons are that it’s just unusual for a woman to wear that, so she never risks looking too traditional or staid. And that proportions often favour her – certainly any woman with a slim waist
Hi Simon,
I welcome your experimentation as a way of assessing potential looks or outfits.
I’m not convinced it works that well, I think that the polo shirts( knitwear or pique) provide a better casual alternative.
Regarding this jacket, it looks rather formal, almost as part of a suit (I guess the pattern in the cloth is hard to see ). Perhaps the cotton version would have worked better with a t-shirt our you Caliendo hopsack DB?
I agree Noel, most of the time a polo shirt will look better, and it’s what I wear more of the time.
The jacket is quite formal, but in real life it looks like a cashmere blazer essentially. There isn’t that much pattern, but it has enough texture to feel like that.
I think the cotton version of the jacket would have been too striking for me, but the Caliendo hopsack DB would certainly have worked.
I’m sorry but that DB with formal trousers and t shirt is most definitely not for me. Not only do I dislike it, I can’t imagine under what circumstances it could be worn.
The last couple of pictures are okay, but they are with unstructured cotton/ linen jackets
I sometimes wear a white Sunspel Henley with a bespoke Solbiati Dresano brick red linen suit. It shouldn’t work but it conveys a super casual look that at least for me, works. It’s a particular look I seek when I do that.
I find this look gets easier the more causal it is. For those looking to dip their toes in it, imagine you’ve been on the deck of your boat all day and have thrown on a jacket because it’s what you had to hand (and given where you were, was probably cotton, unstructured and double breasted).
I think the version Simon is doing is the hardest – structured tailoring and t-shirts are pretty tough to match well, I think.
I think the Andy Warhol version (slim jeans, converse, t shirt, blazer) can look very good in most circumstances where a shirt and tie aren’t necessary. Very dressed down from the usual PS style, of course, but not badly.
As many have noted, mariner-striped tees do very well under a blazer. I’d recommend getting some ex-Russian military ones. They come in a few different colours, lengths and weights. Again a fair way from the usual PS style, maybe, but they’re great.
”that strange feeling of having bare wrists peeking out of jacket cuffs” ha yes! I’m glad I’m not the only one. This t-shirt under the jacket thing, its an odd one, it can look cool or scruffy or too ‘studied’ Its another one that ”If it works it works, if it doesn’t it doesn’t” I do think some guys pull it off but I have never been comfortable doing it myself…. I think its the wrists thing 🙂
I do like the look of the t-shirt and suit when done right. Like any ‘look’ it can go wrong but the t-shirt seems to be an easy one to get wrong. One word of warning though for the summer hot or humid weather – you may sweat into the collar of your suit jacket directly. So watch out for that.
I find that there is something unnerving in the way the neck sits between the collar of a jacket and a t-shirt. Almost as if it’s about to be chopped off by a guillotin. Kamoshita-san’s striped shirt counteracts this effect by pulling the view down. So does a scarf. Without this effect, especially when jacket and t-shirt are of the same color, it looks like a head on a pedestal to me.
Hi Simon, On this occasion, though I typically agree with your choices, I think the DB blazer is too formal in material, perhaps, to pair with a t-shirt, however tailored it might be. Even though it’s DB, it seems too – “worsted”, perhaps? The other examples are spot on.
I think it’s just a matter of proportion. Trousers must be wide on the hips and narrow at the ankle and a white sneaker with a high sole (I would call it structured) it’s kind of mandatory. Aka not all the suits fit the look. This is at least how we sport a t-shirt with a suit or sport coat here in Italy, as I am sure you have seen in many local events or pictures.
Thanks Al – do you have any images you could share? Trousers with wide hips and a narrow ankle with high-soled sneakers sounds quite odd, but I’m sure that’s just my failure of imagination!
Simon: I tried to attach a picture from my phone. but looks like it doesn’t work. Anyway I am not talking of clownesque trousers or whatever. It’s just a matter of right proportions. There are plenty of such pictures but to start I would suggest an IG account like https://instagram.com/otokomaeken?utm_medium=copy_link where you can find a big collection of such pictures, mostly took on the streets of Florence.
…ok, looks like I managed to attach a picture.
Yeah, I see what you mean. That’s a very different look. Completely unstructured, much more sloppy. The guys from Man work it well, but it’s a different look I think.
Yes, exactly. You see it here on the 90% of men wearing a suit or a sport coat. Not all have that “sloppy” look, many wear also double breasted jacket over souch trousers. But that touch of casual makes things work better. More structured suits, even high end ones, don’t work the same.
Thanks, yes I see it all the time when I’m around Italy, and over the years going to Pitti.
It can work well, the only issue is I find guys often push it too far – the trousers very short, the jacket too short and tight, the trainers too big or ungainly.
It would be good to read some advice from someone that does this look well, all the time. It’s not my look so I’m not best placed.
I’m a newbie at the style too and I’m trying to learn what works and what not and I must say it’s not so easy at all. I can already say in the every day life people don’t push it so far like at Pitti or such. One of the outfits I wear in the weekend is white sneakers with a higher sole (think to Richmond sneakers), navy blue chinos, white structured t shirt (made of heavier cotton and with a rounded cut) and a navy blue hopsack DB. I also pair a tan or sand chino or linen trousers with a tan or sand sport coat, all with the same sneakers and t shirt.
It’ s the classic MAN 1924 look, which I really like. I tried to copy, but failed 🙂 never look as cool and relaxed as the both
OK. Here is my take on this… and I won’t be rude about Simon’s neck, like some people here. 🙂
For sure being old and white does not help with this look.
The look really only works with very soft tailoring. Old school Miami Vice Armani stuff as an example.
It mostly only works in summer. ie. it can work with linen, it does not work with 13/14 ounce worsted. It could work with, say, not too closely tailored whipcord or similar, perhaps.
I think your example with the navy DB breasted precisely does not work because the blazer is too classic, and too closely tailored.
By far the best example of what works is the ( I believe ) Japanese gentleman in the ( I think ) brown linen suit with the striped t-shirt.
Voila !
I would dispute there is such a thing as doing well t-shirt under tailoring. Just not too bad if anything. Always a ‘look’, hammered down through media until familiarity sinks it into. Isn’t that how fashion works? Swapping the shoes for sneakers might be around the corner.
However, as long as you are well aware of the trade offs enjoy.
Reminds me of Miami Vice era!
First I join the chorus in praise of the jacket. While I don’t subscribe to the rather dated notion that “a blazer works with anything” this one, especially in this context, does validate the blazer’s versatility.
I do, however, have some issues with the T-shirt under tailoring approach. This may be, in part, a reaction to having lived in Los Angeles for many years and thus seeing this look done badly so frequently. Throw it on with a neck chain and a pair of aviators and we’re definitely on the way to an open call for Quentin Tarantino’s next movie. When I do this look, which isn’t often, I absolutely favor a scarf to lift the curse. It’s nearly impossible to go wrong with Hermes, and like a turtleneck, a scarf covers a multitude of chins, so to speak, which is of some concern as one ages.
However, my real problem with this style is farther south. Coming from a long line of luxury menswear retailers as I do, I was taught that a tailored jacket required full sleeves under all circumstances. A turtleneck or mock version of one could pass, but bare wrists next to a jacket’s cuff buttons seems unfinished.
Others here have suggested the same fix for that problem in several variations that almost all add up to the long-sleeved T-shirt approach. That’s the solution I favor. They’re available in from a wide variety of quality manufacturers and while solid colors are the safe choice, some subdued patterns can add a touch of wit. I have long-sleeved version from D&G in black and burgundy with a retro musical instrument motif that’s a little bit beatnik but fun for a casual occasion (plain scarf if any with something like that, though). But whether monochromatic or a bit decorative, I still think a T worn under a tailored jacket is best with sleeves. Much less likely to suggest you’re showing off your new Rolex.
Lovely points, thanks.
Also, a multitude of chins. Wonderful
Glad you enjoyed it. Couldn’t resist the temptation of a useful pun.
Will the PS square scarf be back in stock?
No, sorry, we’re not doing them anymore. Anderson & Sheppard does some nice ones that are close in style, if you’re interested
Thanks for encouraging some different ways of playing with classic dressing . The problem for me is that t-shirts won’t sit symmetrically on my neck. They always skew to one side. It’s very noticeable under a collar. I don’t know whether this is a common issue for men or my own little cross to bear.
No worries Alec.
Have you tried with knitted T-shirts, as I recommend here? Or indeed with fine-gauge knitwear generally?
The collars there are likely to be much more stable.
Thanks for the advice Simon. I’ll have a look for knitted and fine-gauge t shirts and see if that helps. I’ve a long neck and sloped shoulders so I haven’t invested in better quality t-shirts in the past. But its worth a try. I would like to try experimenting with this look.
Cool. If it works with a normal crewneck sweater under a jacket for you, chances are it will with a fine gauge one, or a knitted T-shirt
I am not against t-shirts under tailored jackets, I just think there are always other options I prefer. I would go with a polo shirt over a t-shirt every time. Probably a personal thing, the way I prefer v-neck sweaters to crew neck sweaters when wearing a collared shirt.
Hi Simon,
I really like this look, I think the dark navy goes well with the trousers (which appear to be taupe?). My only question to you, is why would you choose black shoes as opposed to brown? Brown would compliment the trousers and navy jacket better (in my opinion) and be more appropriate given the casualness of the outfit. What are your thoughts?
Hi Michael,
Thanks, and yes the trousers are a dark greyed brown.
Either shoe could work with the outfit I think, and I tried both. They’re just create a different look.
The trousers are dark and muted enough for black to work, and it reflects nicely the dark and tonal top half as well. Had there been more warmth or colour going on, I would certainly have chosen brown.
I’m trying to explore this look as well, but my biggest concern especially in summer is soiling the collar of the jacket when the t shirt does not have a high enough collar.
Also considering mock necked t shirts and short sleeved knitwear which have been coming out here in Japan lately, but I’m worried this could be a stuffy look in the warmer months.
How do you balance these points, Simon?
Hey Jay,
I’ve mentioned this briefly in the piece. I don’t find soiling of the collar is a problem unless it’s a pale jacket, I’m wearing it this way frequently, and I don’t clean it often enough. But then others might sweat more than me .
I don’t think knitwear under it would look stuffy myself, and it can be as cool as a T-shirt if a high twist
Hi Simon!
The Anthology tee is really nice. I have the navy since before and the brown you worked out with them is really nice too.
What do you think about Colhay’s alternative to this one? It’s in merino rather than cotton of course and costs twice as much, putting the difference in material aside.
https://colhays.com/collections/extrafine-merino/products/merino-sport-shirt-in-olive
Personally, I feel like the bottom rim is a tad too long. But it might be the slim nature of the model here not stretching it out a lot sideways, making the bottom rim appear thicker than it may actually be in person(?). The arm rims are definitely longer on the Colhay’s but I’m more worried about the bottom rim appearing to long. I used to have a beige merino sweater that I liked in the beginning but it just didn’t look good over time, both because of the quality but also because I eventually thought the rim was too thick. Unless of course the tee is proportionally longer, then you can just tuck it in of course.
What is you take on the bottom rims around the waist? Any upsides/downsides on it?
I don’t think the size of that bottom hem is too noticeable, no. I wouldn’t worry about that.
Personally I wouldn’t tuck either in usually though
Just giving a data point. I bought a t-shirt from Colhays in olive and it is absolutely great. And I don’t think the bottom rims appear too long, they are really unnoticeable in my opinion.
I’m particular, there is less drape then The Anthology t shirt and less of the vintage feel as a consequence, so I also think it feels a bit easier to use.
I would just warn that the t-shirt is quite warm, so definetly not something I would wear in a hot day in South america but if one can bear to use a jacket, I think the look with Colhays t-shirt is quite nice (and I did with a navy dB jacket)
Nice, thanks Tamaki
Hi Simon,
I’m considering having a MTM suit from Suitsupply in a 320 gms merino wool. Would you recommend a full suit in merino wool and does merino drape nicely as trousers?
Would love to hear your thoughts!
Kind regards,
Lukas
Pretty much all wool suits are merino wool Lukas – that doesn’t really indicate anything. And it varies hugely in terms of fineness, quality and so on.
So yes, merino should be fine, but if you want to know more it’s worth having more information about the cloth.
There is the Guide to Cloth here if you want to delve deeper.
hello Simon and others,
first time comment from me here.
I must know about the blue DB jacket the bespectacled black gentleman is wearing; specifically how the puckered “jeans” seam look is achieved.
I want to have a few suits made with this look–
+definitely not off the rack,
+most likely with no canvas,
+most likely washable.
A bit non-standard, I know.
So I any guidance / advice that could be provided would most likely save me from having to endure multiple attempts at this with a maker.
Simon, thank you for all your work, I have benefitted from it immensely.
I apologize for only just now joining the conversation.
Thanks,
Joe V
No problem Joe, and I’m very pleased you’ve found it so helpful.
I might be about to disappoint you on the suit though. That’s a washed linen jacket, and garment washing is not really something you can get easily made to measure or bespoke. It’s usually only available ready to wear, as this was, in linen from Drake’s
hi Simon, thanks for your reply. Just saw it now.
Obviously you know way more than I do, but I don’t want to give up just yet.
If my suit comes out not looking quite as puckered as the Drake’s in the photo, that’s okay, I just really love the look that some slight wear and tear will provide, enabling the suit to be worn outside of big cities without people thinking “that guy is way too studied–who does he think he is, and where does he think he is?!”
What if I:
1) order 1 yard of cloth from the maker
2) wash and dry it a few times to assess shrinkage
3) have the maker allow for that shrinkage in the measurements
Is there any reason that won’t work? A suit made without a canvas that I can machine wash every once in a great while?
Thanks again so much.
If you can machine wash the suit, then it will get a little of that fading over time, yes.
However, a suit a tailor normally makes won’t be able to be machine washed.
The problem is not shrinkage of the cloth – a good tailor would pre-wash it anyway unless it was a cloth they knew well.
The problem is that the internals, such as any lining, canvas and padding, won’t be able to be reshaped afterwards. At the least, they’ll need a professional presser to do so (not a dry cleaner).
If you have a tailor that can make you a suit without any canvas or padding, and someone who can press it well after washing, then it could work. But I would only do so if you’ve seen a tailor do that, and liked the results.
Hi simon im going to make my first db jacket from the anthology in feb next year. It wiill be mu first custom order as my other scs are rtw from the Armoury and ring jacket.
Im going with navy. Im wondering is there any advice on fabric? Im thinking of a 4 season cloth which is matte and can be worn casually with army chinos below mostly
Sounds nice Shem. I think we’ve talked about this together before, but a tailored jacket with something like army chinos is a little bit of a harder combination, and perhaps more so with a smarter colour like navy. I’d make sure it has plenty of texture as a result – perhaps a lightweight tweed.
I think you’ll struggle to find something that could be worn like that in hotter weather though. A washed linen, perhaps, but that wouldn’t be great for the other half of the year.
Hi simon, wow you remember! Yes actually im aware but ive seen guys like ethan newton and wong wear navy db with casual bottoms and it looks great. I do agree with you thst navy is not the easiest colour or perhaps the shade of navy and the fabric plays a huge part. I have an armoury model3 sb dark navy jacket in super120 wool and it looks incongruous to my army chinos in a bad way!
Yes, I thought you’d be aware of that.
Ethan and Ethan do of course look great in theirs – just bear in mind they are often not aiming for the most subtle of looks, the slightly more unusual, and that there will still be many things that make those jackets work better, including proportions and design as well as material
Im going to second simon. Navy. Double breasted. Worn year round. Casual? Thats a really hard and risky ask. You’d need 2 jackets for that. As a minimum.
Hi simon do you have any recommendations foe short sleeved tees that one can wear under jackets but don’t move that much in the collar? I have the real mccoy ones from the Armoury and they bunch and shift alot at the collar.
My favourites are the undershirts we recently introduced – did you see those?
Ah thanks. By the way simon would you recommend long sleeve cotton crewnecks vs wool ones? Any difference in how the neckline holds up under a jacket?
This is a piece of knitwear, over a shirt, under a jacket?
In general wool will have more integrity from that point of view and move less, though it depends how the collar has been made too
Hi simon no no. I mean to wear the wool knitwear either directly on its own or jist over a singlet and below a jacket. Ive done so before and feel its much more sturdy than the cotton short sleeve tees that i have (worn on their own).
Im wondering for wool knits, is white a good colour to own given how useful a white tee shirt is?
I wouldn’t say so, no – I outline my favourite knit colours under a jacket here
Regarding knitted T-shirts Simon, would you choose The Anthology version over Cholay’s offering? If yes, what would be the reasons for your choice? I’m swaying between and it would be nice to hear your thoughts. Thanks
The Colhay’s is only merino right? That would be the thing I’d go off. A merino tee is going to be more limiting in that you’re not going to wear it in the warmest weather
That’s correct, Colhay’s is merino. Assume the Anthology is lighter and therefore more useable year round?
if I remember rightly, you had highlighted the Anthology knitted T-shirt as having a short body, does this limited your wearing to high waisted trousers only?
Yes, the Anthology is more versatile that way. Also, some people just find it hard to pick the time for something that is essentially short-sleeved knitwear. (To be clear, it’s more like regular knitwear, not the fine merino you get with Smedley or the Finest Polo for instance)
The Anthology ones were very short and are now a bit better. My mid-rise trousers are fine
Thanks for your time and input.