The Permanent Style Anniversary dinner
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Last November marked 15 years since the founding of Permanent Style. To celebrate the occasion, we planned two things: a personal dinner with friends in Florence and a more public event in the pop-up shop on Savile Row.
The public event, to which all are welcome, is next Tuesday, June 27th. Details here. Please do come along and grab a drink, shake hands and (if you feel like it) have a portrait taken by Jamie.
Last week during Pitti we held the dinner, in the beautiful Castello del Nero hotel outside Florence.
We weren’t lucky with the weather. For the first time in the 11 years I’ve been going, it rained during the summer. Light rain on that Tuesday; storms and heavy downpours on the Wednesday.
I think that might have put a bit of a dampener on the whole fair to be honest, but it didn’t affect us too much. It meant we couldn’t dine among the hotel’s olive groves, as originally planned, but we were in the wine cellar instead. It is the original cellar of a 12th century castle, so hard to complain.
The rain also held off for a beautiful half hour before dinner, when we were all on the pavilion looking down over the valley. The hotel owns all of it, from the woods on the far left to the private villa on the right, with vineyards, a separate smaller hotel, and those olive groves in between.
Everyone suddenly went quiet as the sun lanced across the valley, picking out the walls of the buildings perfectly, as if they’ve been set there just for the purpose of being viewed from the castle. (Which I guess, historically, they might have been.)
Then everyone came to and rejoiced in the sun, walking down the hill towards the groves, in amongst the kitchen garden, and down to the chicken coop at the bottom of the hill.
It’s at moments like these that you feel so grateful for doing what you do - being able to celebrate in a beautiful place with some of your favourite people. I’ve been to events in great locations before, but never with so many friends.
After another drink it was down to the cellar, which was small enough and low enough to create a great atmosphere. Even the serenading went down well, although by the end it was more shouting than singing from those at the table.
The dress code was ‘cocktail attire’, an area we’ve talked about before on PS, and it was interesting to see how these menswear people took to it.
There was far less black-tie-alternative, which made sense in the summer, outside. But everyone was in their own version of tailoring – the Rubato guys in knits under jackets, in typically restrained and elegant colours; Ethan in a predictably western-feeling jacket, trousers and tee; Paul Croughton and Manish holding up the smarter end of spectrum (Manish in particular taking credit for being the only person in a tie).
There was a preponderance of earth tones, if you stepped back. Some navy and cream, yes, but a lot of brown and beige in the tailoring – an effective way to make both jackets and suits feel more summery, less formal, and certainly less corporate. I also liked how Jake and Milad used orange/yellow in their shirts/knits.
In fact we should have done portraits of everyone: it would have been interesting to pick through it. Never mind, next time.
I have to say I was slightly disappointed with the style I saw around Pitti this summer. The clowns were still there (someone was wearing a straw-based suit, including top hat) and there was plenty that was standard (a cream linen suit with a panama, jeans with a western hat for workwear), but less that was both interesting and well-executed.
Seeing what other people are wearing is one of my favourite things about Pitti – probably my single favourite, because it really stimulates my own style. But I can’t help feeling a chunk of that used to come from the older buyers, some of whom aren’t around anymore.
Anyway, I refuse to end on a down note after such a lovely event. It was hilarious, intimate, and a perfect way to celebrate 15 years of PS. Thank you everyone that came, and particularly to Castello del Nero for their hospitality.
I’m looking forward to seeing everyone next Tuesday, and completing the celebrations.
Here is to the next 15 years!!
Thanks Rafael
Now you and your friends are stepping into the role of inspirations for those who are learning the craft. The great burden of masters is that they no longer have their teachers to lean on. Thank you for carrying it forward!
This time I do not envy the clothes but the car.
Thanks Manish for holding the line! I wonder how long the tie still has in it. Even in the Dutch parliament the men have started wearing ‘whatever’.
Otherwise, sounds like a great party and gorgeous location!
Hi Simon, again well done on 15 years, where does the time go! Your feedback on Pitti perhaps suggests that some people attend more to have funbeing there rather than the more serious contingent and that should contribute to the rich diversity of the event.
As for inspiration, I do emphasise with your disappointment. I have however found in so many ways beyond clothing, that I have moved more slowly than the world around. Over the years you have highlighted some great style ideas and for me a great deal of inspiration and learning comes from your extensive back catalogue.
Here’s to the next 15 year and sorry I can’t join you all next Tuesday.
Thanks Stephen
Iooks lovelly, shame about the weather but you still look great! It’s funny you say that about Piti, I was looking through pictures yesterday and found them uninspiring too. There seem to be three uniforms: tastful menswear head, wealthy/italian (white trousers/blue dB etc) and peacocks. I’m generalising of course. Is this also just a sign of how influential (and normalised) piti style has become? A tobacco linen suit, espadrilles and a linen shirt still looks great, but is no longer the province of a small subculture since the rise of the modern menswear brands and bloggers? I’m sure there will be more innovations but is Piti still the forum for them?
Interesting, I hadn’t thought about that Fred. Perhaps the rest of the world has changed a bit, yes
To some extent being either tasteful or flamboyant is also straightforward. Take a plain navy suit vs a neon yellow suit with a thousand accessories. Finding the middle ground in a unique way is more challenging. This comes back to Simon’s old article about being flash vs. fuddy. Fred mentions tobacco linen and there’s many other options like safari jackets or sneakers with tailoring, but many have also been done before and they can also all be overdone.
It sounds and looks like it was a lovely event. Congratulations on 15 years! I hope to make it to Pitti some year, but as a man interested in style rather than someone working in the industry I wonder at how much there is for me to do there. I also don’t know most of the people at this point, although I do follow many on IG and other places. Still, if work takes me to Europe in January and I have a few days available I may well swing by a winter Pitti 🙂
I think you’re right to be cautious Simon, to be honest. There will always be events etc to go to, but unless you know people already it could be a little boring, and walking around the stands can be a little odd to an end-customer, given so many of the clothes are not available to buy for months, and may not even be at all.
I’d go if you’d like to go Florence anyway, and you may even find more joy shopping there than going to the fair
Thanks for the input! If I went, it would be with the hopes of meeting some of the folks that I’ve been following in the style world since entering it in the last few years, to build relationships and friendships with people in the community. Relationships have to start somewhere, and Pitti seems like a good place for that from what I see online.
Hi Simon, what about what you were wearing?
I’ll do a separate article on that Gabriele – did remember that one!
Yea!
I really enjoy what Oliver is wearing. I’m not a peak lapel on a single-breasted kind of guy, but in this instance (considering the color), it seems to elevate it into something black-tie adjacent but considerably cooler.
I agree Eric. And adds a little flair without tipping over into a DB, which can be that much harder to wear
Could not agree more re: Oliver’s jacket. It is a terrific look. Any idea who made it for him?
No but I can ask
It’s Saman Amel
Thank you.
What a lovely venue and great place to celebrate, even with a little rain!
Thanks for the words. They’re delightful and moving as they’ve always been.
But I really came here for the third to last photo of that dessert. And the eternal mystery of what’s on the inside…
A lovely chocolate cream, as I recall
“The clowns were still there (someone was wearing a straw-based suit, including top hat)”
Lol lol
It would be quite entertaining!!
Photos please
Not sure I have one of that, though Alex Natt did have a great top-hat one on his stories. Probably gone now…
Lovely event albeit I’d like to see some women !
Your comments about Pitti are interesting as I’ve always been fascinated how interest in such events fade as one becomes intrenched in one’s own style.
Yes, one of the biggest downside of menswear – very few women
Simon, how do you imagine more women being part of “classic menswear”? Would those be women who broadly like to wear pants & shirts & jackets as the backbone of their wardrobe, or would there be more stylistic criteria to this?
I was thinking of it more from the creative side – the industry, as that’s what Pitti and the dinner featured. I think female designers involved in menswear brands would be really interesting, as they often bring quite a different perspective, and often a broader awareness
I like that! I’m a woman who works on a menswear brand in South Africa & whilst I hope my influence is creatively positive overall, the more interesting thing is to observe how being entrenched in menswear has changed my own wardrobe and sartorial wish list over the years.
The « classic » of classic menswear is really a style philosophy that both men & women benefit from in building a wardrobe.
When I read PS, I bemoan the fact that featured menswear makers are not making also for women – of course different patterns are required, and sometimes a change of fabric weight to make a good men’s garment available to women. But I wish more would develop in this direction.
A lot have tried and a lot have failed – the issue is normally that not only do women have a greater variety of personal styles, but those styles change much faster. Just look at something like trouser rise in the past few years – and they’re easier than jackets.
The market place & culture have trained women into wanting new and changing colours and shapes too often. And yes women as a group are not homogeneous in their style choices.
But a brand never serves an entire spectrum of customers, it’s always a specific type. I believe there are enough women out there who want to lean into menswear but don’t have RTW brands supporting them.
I won’t hog this thread any more – but hope that a maker hears and responds to this implicit request!
Thanks Bilkish, I completely agree. I’m only a little sceptical because I’ve seen brands have that same thought and never quite grow anything out of it
Congratulations! ;)) And thank you 🙂
Simon how about a commemorative menswear trinket for your 15 year PS anniversary? Could you create something for your PS readers?
Hmm, nice idea I hadn’t thought about that. Any specific category you think would be good?
I think a small library tote bag would be an easy choice in a limited run. You’d probably have a good time designing something simple and practical like that.
Thanks Roger, true. I guess it would be nice if it was less disposable than some as well
Christmas jumper?.
How about a small case/mini tote for sunglasses? Speaking as a man who manages to lose his regularly.
Hmm, yes I can see how that would be nice. It’s hard because if it’s a temporary thing then I don’t want to design something completely fresh and that fills a gap in the market, then not be able to keep it in the shop. But on the flip side, it’s only those kinds of products that I enjoy making!
Could you take annual preorders and then supply to those, plus a small percentage, or is this too logistically difficult ? Thinking about it…always risky I know, a sunglasses case,plus space for a pen and bank card ,for example, would be useful. Certainly handy for summer style.
Pre-orders are possible, but a logistical nightmare. We’ve started doing them with some things, like the donegals last year and the shawls this, but I’d be loathe to expand it too much
Congrats and all the best, Marty
Hi Simon,
Great initiative on such an occasion. Absolutly worth celebrating! It belongs to PS life and dynamic!
John
What fabulous photographs!
Any idea what sort of tie Manish is wearing or who made it? Beautiful luster and color.
No, but I can ask him to reply
Hi Peter
It’s a sevenfold tie from Tie Your Tie in Florence that I picked up a few days before the event.
I can’t quite put my finger on the colour but it does have this gorgeous coppery, pinky lustre to it.
Thanks for asking!
Thank you both!