Over the next few weeks on Permanent Style, I’ll be setting out the pieces that form the foundation of my smart/casual summer wardrobe.
We’ve covered the smart (read tailored) side of summer dressing in quite a lot of detail over the years, but less so the casual side.
This can be a hard to get right.
Tailoring in the summer is fairly easy: you wear the same clothes, just in materials that have the additional aim of trying to keep cool.
So cooler materials like linen and high-twist wool, shirts in linen or cotton/linen, and perhaps bare ankles or an open neck. Covering the head is important too.
Casual clothing is also fairly easy: most men are happy in a T-shirt and shorts, even if it doesn’t necessarily suit all of them.
It’s the areas in between that are tricky. For example, dressing up a little in what is a casual work environment; simply dressing for yourself; or trying to feel more work-like at home, without feeling silly walking around in full-on tailoring.
My foundation piece here, my go-to for starting an outfit, is a knitted polo shirt* like the one shown, from John Smedley.
Why? Because its combination of material, style and construction make it the perfect partner for other smart or casual clothing, enabling it to be dressed up or down.
The polo’s collar and knitted construction make it smart. Anything with a collar immediately looks more formal (as well as more flattering) and a pointed, fashioned one like this – on the Smedley ‘Adrian’ model – particularly so.
Shorter and more spread collars, as seen on normal polo shirts, always look rather sportier – see also the Smedley ‘Rhodes’ model. (The larger collar on the Isis is also nice and smart – but the fit is too roomy for me).
And the knitted construction of the polo adds to this smart impression: it looks more like fine knitwear than something associated with sport.
In fact it’s surprising how strong this impression is, given the subtlety of the actual difference.
These smart aspects mean the polo can be happily worn with tailored trousers – perhaps a high-twist, and certainly any linen or cotton.
But still, the polo has a casual appearance due to soft material and lack of stiffness. And of course because it is short-sleeved.
A navy version like this, below, could easily be worn with cream jeans instead of cream linen, and with smart sneakers or canvas tennis shoes. I wouldn’t wear it with heavy, darker denim, but cream and mid-blues seem OK.
I’ll illustrate these combinations in the next piece in this series.
The merino versions of these knits are also worth considering.
Although cotton will always be cooler, a short-sleeved fine merino polo still keeps you cool, holds its shape better, and the wool is a little better at regulating body temperature.
In a country like England, where a sunny day can feel chilly as soon as the cloud covers the sun and a breeze gets up, merino can actually be a more practical choice in the summer.
(Unfortunately there is no Smedley short-sleeved model in merino with a fashioned collar, just the Payton with the smaller collar style.)
In terms of useful colours, a knit polo can be tricky because some standard polo colours, like white, don’t look as good as knitwear.
And they have the same problem as other collared knitwear (like a roll neck) that standard shirt colours light blue don’t look great either.
This makes finding combinations of knit, jacket and trousers a little more challenging.
Personally I’d recommend navy (largely to go with other navy) and cream (as a white replacement – though make sure it’s not too transparent), followed by black, light grey, olive and dark brown.
This argument is consciously quite narrow – supporting a very specific style and make of polo shirt.
But I have tried other polos with this range of summer clothing over the years, and none of them work as well. The Armoury’s short-sleeved ones are great, but aren’t knitted and so look more sporty.
And the Friday Polos are good with both tailoring and casual wear, but they are long-sleeved, and their piqué cotton is deliberately heavier – making it not that suitable to very hot weather.
*Calling this a ‘knitted’ polo shirt isn’t really accurate, as most polo shirts (and indeed T-shirts) use knitted materials. What we mean when we use the term for a piece like ths is that the shirt is knitted together, rather than sewn. The seams are knitted. This is called ‘fully fashioned’ in the industry, but it’s a bit of a mouthful – so I’m switching previous policy and referring to them as ‘knitted’ – with the help of this footnote!
Next week: styling for smart/casual looks in the summer, followed by a capsule smart/casual shoe range.
Adrian polo from John Smedley (medium in navy) worn with cream-linen trousers from Jean-Manuel Moreau
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Thanks for an interesting and useful article. I am looking forward to the series. The Adrian is my go-to polo as well.
Simon
Really important article and yes John Smedley is very good at this with great choice but i find their cotton can be a bit heavy
Other brands you might consider is Sunspel sea island cotton which is very good although as someone said their colours can be somewhat limited Plus i think Zanone ice cotton polo is as good as it gets finally James Perse is good but hard to find in UK and they make alot of polos out of different fabrics but dont always differentiate them so hard to repeat buy what you like although the one i am wearing today say Supima cotton made in usa
An article worth going further on as this is the mainstay of any man’s summer clothing
Julian
Thanks Julian. One thing I find with all of those (which I have tried, and own Zanone) is the collars are smaller than here, and don’t work well under a jacket. There are very few of those
How do you wash a knitted polo like this? Hand wash or put in washer with “hand wash” mode?
My experience is the collar would look a bit messy after washing…
Delicate wash in a machine is fine. But yes, it needs a careful iron on the collar afterwards
Thanks Simon. This sort of content (and price point) is much appreciated, and no doubt many of us will be purchasing from JS tonight.
A very practical question: to tuck or not to tuck? Assuming a polo is sufficiently slim in the waist, tucking-in – with a touch of over-hang – will presumably look smarter (as is the aim of this article), but not so good for truly hot weather. Have you tucked-in in the photos, or just rolled up? If rolled, it would constantly need to be adjusted throughout the day as it inevitably un-tucks? Thanks!
Hey. I would never tuck in something knitted like this. The ribbing at the bottom should mean it doesn’t need to be – like any piece of knitwear. The ribbing should always stay on top of the waistband, and the body just fold over it, giving you some excess so that when you stretch your arms, the ribbing stays in place mostly.
Do you mean you never tuck in knitwear? I think it can look cleaner and smarter
Yes, I never do.
I can see why people think it can look clean and smart, but really good fitting knitwear should look just as clean and smart – and not as odd as a tucked in sweater
I wear the same polos but in the Roth style. Same fit as Adrian but honeycomb texture. Lovely shirts.
What’s your view on tucking in, either to shorts or long trousers?
I think it looks a little forced with a knit like this. And it shouldn’t be needed either, if the fit is good, given you have the ribbing at the bottom
I buy John Smedley’s Isis and Finchley (long sleeved) polos and much prefer them to the Adrian. The Isis’s collar is more classic and the bit of extra room makes it more comfortable to wear in warmer weather.
For very hot weather, Sunspel’s jerseys polos (made from the same pima cotton as the classic t-shirts) are unbeatable. I have bought over a dozen in every possible colour and they are ideal on holiday. It’s hard to understand why Sunspel has cut back the choice of colours in recent years.
Sunspel’s pique polos (now a bit lighter weight again) have a similar cut to the jersey polos and are ideal for the golf course. The cut of the Riviera polos is very different and just not suitable for me.
Sunspel’s management please take note!
Thanks Simon, looking forward to the next article in this series.
I’m actually the opposite, in a sense: I prefer long sleeve pique cotton Polos combined with shorts in the summer time. First, my arms don’t get as hot (and its nice to have that extra cover in intense sun), but if I’m being honest it’s really because I don’t think I have the right body for a short sleeve Polo (5’6″ and c. 135/40 lbs) – I’ve tried near on a dozen over the years from all the usual suspects.
Personally, I think longer sleeves rolled up, either with a Polo or linen shirt, combined with shorts, is a better look (at least for me). My go to Long Sleeve Polos for the moment are from Luca Faloni, they are relatively cheap and I haven’t found a better cut (happy to hear from you about others)!
The holy grail here would be a PS Button down Polo, in a lighter pique, with a short body to be worn untucked
John Smedley Sea Island quality knitted polo shirt are very delicate and require utmost care especially in washing, otherwise tiny holes and runs arise.
I am too brutal for this fragility.
Interesting point regarding merino vs. cotton; for anything worn against the skin and so requiring washing after every wear I always go for cotton (always wearing a t-shirt or undershirt under my thin Smedley merino knits) as I’ve long been under the impression the cotton stands up the frequent and repeated washing better than merino; am I mistaken in this belief?
Good question Alex, I’m not sure. I have a short-sleeved merino that I’ve washed a fair few times, but perhaps not intensely enough to compare
The answer to Alex’s question which requires repeated washing to determine its effect on the cloths decides if the Smedley cotton or merino survives.
Merino definitely stands repeated washing better than cotton. Not only does it keep its size, it will not fade either. On top of that you can wear merino wool many times before it needs washing.
Nice article and very timely. I’ve been a fan of the knitted cotton polo for quite a while, but have found good ones difficult to get. I have an old Armani one from years ago; not a brand I’d buy these days, but it’s worn well. At 5’11” I’m hardly short, but I find the Smedley shirts a touch too long – 2 cm shorter would be perfect. I was very pleasantly surprised to find a really nice light grey knitted polo in Reiss last year, which has a great cut, a decent collar and seems to wear and wash well.
Great series – I share Kenny’s frustration, Sunspels Jersey polos are beautiful and a nice substitute to this but they have radiclly cut down the colour choices over the last few years unfortunately. I find colour difficult in summer – all the navies, greys, browns and olives I like in winter feel too wintery when summer comes along but I am a too conservative to go for most of the extensive linen colour ranges including sky blues, pinks, oranges etc
Another great (if pricey) substitute for the Smedley are the short sleeved wool or cotton knitted polo sweaters from Caruso at the Armoury. I love the cream one.
I have Sunspel’s jersey polos in sky blues, other blues, greens, pinks and red as well as the “wintry” navy, black and maroon. If you can get them again, go for the bright colours because the ladies absolutely love them!
It’s worth nothing the Adrian has a stand collar. Only a few Smedley shirts have that feature, thus leaving the neck line too low and open in my opinion.
I found out that Smedley’s sea island cotton wears warm and unfortunately it has a tendency to stretch. I found out I had to size down in summer but that was after I’d bought a number of shirts. Mind Smedley has 3 fits: the Italian fit (tight), standard fit (your polo Adrian) and the original “easy fit”.
All that makes finding your right size quite time consuming, so I’ve dropped their summer shirts. The merino’s are great classics though, and as you write one can wear them on a breezy sunny day in July too. Looking forward to the next episodes.
Yes, unfortunately most are more sporty, with a low collar. A different audience I guess.
I haven’t found mine cotton ones to stretch, but they do wear a little warm, definitely.
Personally, I really like the standard fit now, which is still relatively slim. I used to prefer the slim cut, but this standard fit Adrian still looks pretty slim on me.
I agree with you. Smedley’s sea island cotton does wear a bit warm. For me, it’s more suited to Spring and Autumn than the hot summer months. However, the extra room of the easy fit wears cooler than the standard fit.
Hi Simon,
Nice piece. But I’m a bit confused. Is the PS Friday polo knit/fully fashioned? I thought it wasn’t but your note about it at the end (vis a vis a The Armoury’s) might be read to mean that it is. Thanks.
No, it isn’t. Like the Armoury’s and most other polos.
I think a powder blue polo shirt with light-beige trousers and white sneakers is a dynamite combination. See Steve McQueen.
Using the now extinct SS Friday Polo in South Florida has given me the ability to go casual with polo and trousers or smart casual with a light jacket because of the collar. Would like those SS versions to return.
Thanks Buddy. I’m so pleased you like yours, though we don’t have any current plans to bring them back.
I have the Adrian and really like it with one exception; the sleeve length is just a bit too long. Otherwise, it’s a fantastic model with excellent fabric and design, beautiful really. So, I’ll just have to get over the sleeve length issue or continue my search.
Thanks for this Simon. This looks like it’s going to be a very useful series! Summer is so much harder to get right for casual dressing than autumn, and I love a good knitted polo.
Out of interest- which collar do you find most effective with tailoring ? And also curious to know why you think that is?
I often find knitted polos don’t work open for some reason too but have found the reasons why hard to work out.
The best is a more rigid collar as you find on the Armoury sewn polos, or on the PS Friday Polos.
It’s hard to make a knitted polo collar sit well under tailoring – see our Dartmoor for more on that.
Simon, wondering how you feel the Smedley polo compares to Drake’s knitted linen/silk offering this season (I saw on Instagram you tried it out) in terms of fit and material? Thanks!
The make is very similar, but the collar is larger, and the material feels very different – crunchier, not smooth. The fit is a little more generous than this Smedley ‘standard’ fit
Where did the Drake’s espadrilles go in the pictures?! I was looking for those because I love espadrilles for summer but they always end up scruffy and a bit misshapen after say 10 wears…
Ah, sorry, I was thinking of the next article – they’ll be shown there.
Could you clarify what a “stand collar” is?
And which characteristics make a collar on a polo shirt work under a sports coat?
The things that affect it include the height of the collar, the length and position of the points, its rigidity, and how high it sits on the body of the polo. See the discussion on the Dartmoor here for more detail
Is there a long sleeved version of the polo with the same collar as the Adrian model?
Yes, the Belper
Hi Simon, it’s a great pity that JS doesn’t make the Isis polo in wool (or a short-sleeved Dorset). A merino short-sleeved polo with a substantial collar would be a classic.
You might consider the John Smedley “Cisis”, which is 54% Merino Wool and 46% Sea Island Cotton.
Interesting article, thanks. I’ve never really got into these sorts of knitted polos, but I like the idea of them. I did have a Smedley cotton one years ago, but I found that (in common with a lot of cotton products) the colour just washed out of it so quickly (it was black) that it looked terrible after a few washes. Presumably this is going to be a problem for all cotton products in dark colours, but not an issue for merino? I also had a couple of Sunspel Riviera polos and my god they were awful – the colour washed right out of them almost immediately and they quickly looked very tatty and got relegated to gardening wear. Shame, because I really liked the cut and the look of them initially.
Yes you’re right, it will happen with all cotton at some point.
I don’t mind the faded look personally, but it’s definitely more casual and different to the clean look you buy it for at the start
Hello,
I agree with you about the John Smedley merino wool, I think it’s very nice. I also think Pringles makes a very good merino short sleeve polo also.
Thank you for your articles.
Thanks Tim. I haven’t looked at Pringle in a long time. I’ll take a look
Hi Simon – worth another collaboration with Umbria Verde for a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor, perhaps? Would link nicely to the Friday Polos as being collectable/available in short and long sleeved versions. I haven’t actually ordered the Dartmoor yet, but that’s just a matter of time (and making sure I still have a job).
Yes perhaps, it would make be a nice versatile piece. Thanks
Hi Simon, thanks for your post. I’m seriously considering the Adrian: for someone 6’1”, athletic build and broad shoulders, would you go with M or L? Cheers!
It’s hard to tell Garbriele. I’m almost that height, but I’m not particularly athletic in build I guess.
I’d suggest comparing the Smedley measurements against a polo you already own – that’s the easiest way to tell, rather than using your own body measurements.
I’m interested in getting a couple of high quality merino T-shirts that can look nice for casual wear (e.g., under a linen shacket). Most of the ones I’ve seen are marketed at minimalist travelers. There are all sorts of bizarre ads challenging people to see how many days in a row they can wear their merino T (presumably, before everybody runs away from them). Needless to say, I have no interest in that and I’m looking for something relatively dressy, with a nice looking crew neckline. Do you have any suggestions?
Well, they divide into knitted ones (like Smedley ones) and then sewn ones (like those others you’re looking at).
For knitted, try Smedley or Connolly for standard ones, Drake’s has some nice ones this season, and No Man Walks Alone is worth a look too.
For sewn, the only ones I’ve tried and liked have been from Private White (great for cycling in particular) but they’re not currently available
Smedley’s “Singular” line has an interesting looking weave. Have you seen or tried it in person? Hard to judge these things on a computer screen, and since I live in the US, going to the store in person is not an option!
Thanks for doing such a great job replying to everybody’s comments!
No worries. I haven’t tried that no, sorry. I do tend to prefer the simple, classic weaves, as I’m aiming for something relatively smart
I have a J.S. singular long sleeved top and its great. They’re a unisex range and are particularly long in the body even by J.S. standards. Very nice to wear though.
Try loow. I’ve found them superb. Not quite as dressy as the knits but lovely material at a great price.
Thanks you Simon . It is nice article. It is really difficult to wear nice outfits during warm weather. I use to wear smedley polo in sea island coton . It is not too bad. Maybe there is other materials to feel cooler when it is going 30°C ? Looking forward to the next episodes.
Yes Alan, I think certainly other, perhaps coarser, cottons would be a little cooler. Also linen or linen mixes can be too.
How do these compare to the Saman Amel polo collar knits? I was able to order a black polo collar sweater (long sleeve) when they were last in NYC. I also ordered a blue cotton button-through with a collar. They were able to hem the sleeves, making it a short sleeved piece. I have worn the blue piece a few times this spring, and I am loving it. Both were MTM orders so the fit was superb.
Would you mind/consider adding a few photo of the detail of the seams to further illustrate the “fully fashioned” effect?
I don’t have Saman Amel polo-collar knits myself, but from what I’ve seen the SA ones have a lower collar, not quite so good under tailoring unless you have them over the top of the jacket. Is that right?
On the seams – it’s just the same as the seams you would get on any piece of fine knitwear. Like the close-up pictures at the end of this piece on our finest knitwear
Thanks for the link to the detail photos!
Regarding the SA collar, it works for me under a jacket. The collar is not as tall as my dress shirts, but it extends above the jacket in the back of my neck. The collar also stays standing under my jacket. Although I don’t wear my sweater and jacket together often. So far it’s been with a linen blend jacket. I’m not sure if the texture of the jacket and sweater is assisting in keeping the collar standing. Also, the collar is more of one piece than the collar and the stand insert.
I see. Thanks Ben
SEH Kelly also have a nice knitted polo at the moment.
Knitted polos have long been my standard summer tops. I find them to be very flattering and masculine, even on my not especially muscular physique.
I’ve recently bought a Smedley, but I also highly recommend Tom Ford, Cruciani and Malo, although I’ve only ever bought any of these vastly reduced in price. Tom Ford and Cruciani, especially, are very well made and use some fantastic materials, such as silk/linen blends.
Nice recommendations, thanks Matt
Simon: Do you (or anyone else} have experience with the Luca Faloni silk-cashmere polos? Looks to me like an interesting hybrid, which is more suitable for warmer weather than pure cashmere (and possibly more durable as well). Do you know if it’s similar in temperature to fine merino? And does the collar work well under a sports jacket?
Thanks,
I have tried them, and while they are nice, I think the answer to your questions is no. The silk doesn’t make them much cooler – not really for warm weather – and the collar doesn’t really work well under a jacket
I guess that’s not too surprising. I couldn’t help noticing that they don’t have a single product picture with a shirt, polo, or sweater under a sports jacket. I wasn’t sure if that’s just an editorial decision rif there is some other reason. have a Brera polo in Navy and a brushed cotton shirt in blue; both are very nice but perhaps not ideal under a jacket. I also have 2 cable knit sweaters which are very nice and do work well under a jacket (as you would expect).
If there is no diffeeence in warmth, do your think there is any reason to get silk-knitwear over 100% cashmere knitwear, other than color choice? Looks the silk-cashmere has a slight sheen to it. The ice blue and oatmeal colors look nice (even if they don’t with a jacket) and aren’t available in plain cashmere.
I have noticed that none of L
Exactly, I think different priorities there – not really tailoring. It’s more a casual brand in that sense.
The silk mix helps give a little strength to very lightweight cashmere – that’s generally why it’s used. But yes you do get a slight sheen
Hey. Thanks for the nice article. I’m wondering what shoes suit the summer-polo-and-linen trousers style. You suggest sneakers (I guess it should be white leather ones) or tennis canvas shoes. But, i think loafers like John Lobb’s dark brown Lopez would go well. I’d appreciate it if you could suggest what leather shoes suit this style.
Yes Ray, dark brown loafers would be good, perhaps mostly in suede. Also lightweight loafers like Sagans and unlined ones, espadrilles, and canvas tennis shoes
The Lobbs are great but you don’t have to spend a grand. I suggest the Bradbourne penny loafers from Anglo Italian, made by Crockett & Jones on the classic 72 last. I have the Wilton penny loafer, made by C&J on the 72 last in E or G fit, in burnished brown and tobacco suede from Shipton & Heneage. The latter are often on offer with 15% or 20% off.
The C&J website offers the Boston, Grantham. Harvard, Henley, Richmond (rubber sole) penny loafers. The Selby’s butterfly design is very well executed and is worth considering. My only option was Boston but C& J has sadly dropped the G fits in recent years.
Simon, have you ever tried Orlebar Brown polos and if so, what’s your take on them?
Hi Jeff,
I used to really like them, but primarily for their very slim cut.
They’re a sports polo, not knitted like Smedley, and even among those I’d be more likely to recommend the Armoury ones, or Sunspel
Simon, if you don’t mind me asking, what size do you wear for the Adrian? I am a very similar build to you, and usually wear the same. I would guess at an M, though the sizing for the Adrian seems to be small.
Thanks!
Yes, an M
Hello Simon,
I really appreciate the article especially for someone like me who lives in South Florida where the heat and humidity are oppressive in the Summer. Recently, I have purchased Yeossal’s polos with the swallow collar. It is stands up very well under a jacket. Just a thought.
Thank you again,
Alain
Cheers Alain, recommendations like that always appreciated – particularly why you like them specifically, and how they compare to other brands
Are you making another run of the lightweight Friday polos?
Yes – we’ll have some in June hopefully. Do always email [email protected] if you want an alert when they’re in
Hi Simon, how does the weight of the lightweight Friday polos compare to the cloth used for the Spring 2020 Button down Friday polos?
It’s a lot lighter. The button-down Friday Polos are made in the same material as the original Friday Polo, which is a heavier weight designed for wear all year round – like a regular shirt – rather than being a hot-weather piece.
Ok thanks – very interesting – look forward to these coming back in stock then. As I commented above, I’m much happier in a long sleeve polo in summer with the sleeves rolled up. May I ask, will this reissue also be a button down collar too?
Yes it will. We’re sticking with this style for the moment
Excellent! I’ve had LA copy this style (plus a few mm) for a run of new shirts I’m doing with him, thank you for all your work developing it. You’re right a good collar certainly makes all the difference
I have a Smedley long sleeve polo (Belper) in Bardot grey which I like a lot. It’s a versatile shade of grey.
I’d like to a Belper in navy, but they oddly don’t come in navy; the closest option are midnight and indigo. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Midnight is dark navy – that’s the navy I would buy from somewhere else anyway
Hi Simon,
Articles on everyday items nearly all of us wear are a great idea !
I have the Adrian in a couple of colours but find the Sunspel Sea Island polo better, although it does cost more. Sunspel’s Riviera shirts were my polo of choice but seem to have really gone downhill in the last few years.
Either of these is a better option than the standard Lacoste/RL polo, though I have to give RL credit on their colour selection of over 70+ choices
I really enjoyed this article and the comments. Due to the coronavirus, my dress shirts haven’t gotten as much use recently. Long sleeve polos are a good alternative (smart but not overly dressy) and short sleeve polos can be nice as well – although long sleeve polos with buttoned cuffs that can be rolled up are more versatile.
Nice to hear that R, thank you
As someone mentioned further up the J.S. Roth is a good alternative to the adrian should you fancy a pique cotton version. It has the same collar as the adrian.
Does anybody know of good merino options for a short-sleeve polo, with a stand collar preferably?
hi simon, i have been looking to get a knit polo to go with some shorts for the summer and came across this badass bryceland one in black (https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/knitwear/products/brycelandscottonshortsleevepoloblack).
I have never owned a black polo and am intrigued by the idea of getting one. However, my concern is with shoes. While the black polo may go with khaki/white/grey shorts, would brown/navy loafers go with them?
I think very dark brown would be good, yes. And maybe white tennis shoes?
That does look very nice, though I haven’t see it in person, only chatted to Ethan about it. Do check the measurements though as it looks like it’s intended more for high-rise trousers?
Hi simon how hoes very short knitted items (t-shirt or polo) pair with regular shorts?
Not so well really – the height of the trousers/shorts and the length of the tee/polo need to go together
Hi Simon,
Great article! Have you heard of, or tried on Kent Wang polo T-shirts? They are pique cotton, so not fully fashioned, but have a fairly stiff collar. And at $65, significantly more cost effective than Smedley or Sunspel. I’ve used their SS polos for years in hot weather (living in Singapore) and found them cool enough and hold up well to daily washing in the machine.
Another brand I’m thinking of trying is Son of a Tailor. They have merino polos, but without a stiff collar. However, the main selling point is the MTO service, that should result in a better fit than OTR options.
Please let me know what you think, or if you have had experience with either brand.
Hi Simon,
I think you missed a question I posted here asking about Liverano’s knit polos via The Armoury (https://thearmoury.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/cotton-short-sleeve-knit-polo?variant=32431640903751). What do you think of them, style-wise? Thanks!
Sorry about that.
I’m afraid I can’t comment on those polos though – I haven’t tried them or even seen them in person
No worries, and thanks. I understand your hesitation and appreciate the motives, but would also appreciate your take just based on the online depiction —particularly of the knit pattern. Is this something you would consider for yourself? In other words, would you, based on the pictures online, would be interested in going into the store and trying it for yourself? Thanks!
Certainly in trying it on, yes. But there’s so much that can vary in terms of fit and weight and stretch etc that I wouldn’t order it online without being able to see it in person first
Simon, would you mind explaining why do you think white wouldn’t work on a knit polo like this? I struggle to see the difference between a white knit polo and a white cut and sewn polo, such as the Friday Polo that would counsel against the former but not the latter. Thanks.
Good point. I think it’s being short sleeved – a white short-sleeved polo immediately looks much more strongly like something meant for sport
Hi simon i have this blazer here in blue
https://thearmoury.com/products/ring-jacket-hopsack-amj07-travel-sport-coat?variant=12255047450695
Apart from the obvious white polo would a black polo work with this blue?
I wouldn’t have thought so Shem, no. The jacket isn’t dark enough.
A light blue polo might do
May I ask why the jacket isn’t dark enough to work with a black polo, and why it would work with a light blue polo?
Is the idea to keep contrast between the jacket and the shirt to a minimum?
Light blue goes with pretty much everything. Hence the ubiquity of it in business and casual shirts. Hard to find a good shade in a polo though.
Black generally works best with cold colours – this is a little too strong
Simon, I am surprised at your recent of a black knit polo. I would have thought it wouldn’t look good. Would you mind explaining how would you wear/style it? Thank you
I do wear black tops like this fairly often. Perhaps have a look at these posts:
– Black polo with tailoring
– Black shirt with blouson
– Wearing black generally
I recently bought a JS Bradwell in black. I believe this is the long sleeve version of the Isis but could be mistaken. The collar is far from perfect however it has the huge benefit of looking good with the jacket off.
I find the black polo is a rare tool to help modernise a sports jacket. It’s not easy to get black in the game. I guess in winter a black roll neck is also useful but that comes with baggage!
Very true.
I like a black polo with tailoring – there’s a post here showing it, just in case you haven’t seen it
I have tried a few of the polos mentioned on PS over the last few years and thought I would give my thoughts. Living in hot and humid Singapore, a polo shirt is an essential item.
John Smedley, Adrian – I have to agree with Simon’s recommendation. This is the most sartorial polo I have tried, and beautifully soft with a collar that does not collapse. The cotton is extremely soft and very good in hot weather. However, it is undoubtedly expensive for what it is.
Trunk, Moxton – Trunk’s own polos are superb. They have the best collar for wearing under a jacket; it stands tall and is stiff. The fit is also quite flattering, though the cotton is quite heavy. I really hope they bring these back next year.
Sunspel, Riviera – more casual than the above two, but the collar is only suitable for casual dressing; it collapses far too easily. A good option for the beach/holiday.
Orlebar Brown, Sebastian – the slimmest fit of these four, and creates a very flattering physique. The collar is less prone to collapsing than the Sunspel. However, the quality is the poorest of these four, and it won’t last more than two seasons.
Overall, Smedley’s and Trunk’s offerings are superb. The Adrian is more refined, but the Moxton is by far the best value.
Hi simon I’m looking to get this bryceland rayon shirt in black (https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/shirts-1/products/bryceland rayon-Black) to be worn untucked with shorts in summer. Would you say that look works given the color of the shirt? Also what casual footwear goes with this? (looking for something more casual than any gyw loafers)
To be honest Shem, it’s not a look I wear so it’s hard to say
Thank You for the recommendation! This is by far the softest knitwear I’ve ever worn, and the cut is gentlemanly. This should be in a staple part of everyone’s wardrobe. No more overpriced horse logo polos.
Nice, so pleased to hear you’ve liked it so much
Hi Simon, I tried the Payton in a Large and even that was too slim. Normally I’m a Medium in knitwear, do you think I’d be a Large in the Adrian?
It’s hard to say Victor, sorry. Particularly given I have the opposite issues with fit to you, by the sounds of it
Not a problem! I’m going to try purchasing a Large in the Adrian to see if it fits better. Thank you. 🙂
hi simon, whats your take on a short sleeve polo like this (https://www.brycelandsco.com/collections/knitwear/products/brycelandscottonshortsleevepoloblack) worn with shorts on a very hot summers day?
The style looks really nice, but I haven’t tried them in person, so it’s hard to say exactly. I also tend to prefer light merino polos if possible in hot weather, over cotton. The cotton Smedley ones, at least, don’t look or feel as nice as fine merino, and aren’t really any cooler either.
I’ve been looking around for light merino polos. Are there any other brands, except for the Smedley (Payton), that you’d recommend?
Not really, but we are developing our own as well, which should hopefully we ready in a month or so
How exciting that you’re making your own. Can you provide information on the colors? Thanks
It will be navy and cream
Simon, what do you think of a charcoal knit polo? I’m specifically considering the Adrian in charcoal. Thanks.
I think the colour is a good one. I’m not so much a fan of the collar, as mentioned, but otherwise it’s great
After reading this post I’ve bought John Smedley polo. Very happy with the quality, it is a much dressier version of pique standard polo. More fragile but it survived standard machine wash, otherwise should be washed on gentle program. I’m 188cm and it’s a bit short, this is min length I can accept.
Simon
Quite a late convert to knitted polos, but took the plunge with a batch of John Smedley. Have to say I’m really enjoying the understated style and flattering collar. Quite different from regular Sunspel cotton polos.
Thanks
Nice. Knitwear is so much more refined
Hi Simon,
I did purchase a Smedley polo to wear in Sydney and it looks great. Certainly an upgrade from pique polo. However, I have a challenge with washing the shirt. A couple of times I’ve accidentally washed it together with shirts, chinos and other clothes on a regular cycle. This is because you dump dirty clothes into a single basket and then simply forget to filter through when transferring into a washing machine. This of course wore out (damaged) the shirt very quickly. The other problem is because it is worn on a naked body, it requires washing after one or two days. I’m afraid that even if I would wash it by hand or on the most gentle cycle, it would still shorten the life of the shirt to several months. How do you look after your polo and how many months/years do you get out of it?
You do need to be careful to wash it separately Nick. I’m afraid that’s just a result of having finer clothing that needs better looking after. If it helps, I have a string bag next to my washing basket, where I put everything that needs a separate, delicate wash.
If you do wash it on a delicate setting, it should last years. And it will likely need less washing that plain cottons.
Thanks a lot, Simon. Great tip regarding the separate string bag!
Cheers
Simon, can you recommend a string bag for this purpose? When can they be purchased? Thanks!
Just search online or Amazon for mesh laundry bag
Here is one, Guppyfriend washing bag: https://en.guppyfriend.com/products/guppyfriend-waschbeutel?variant=39518534402151
From personal experience, it works fine.
Hi Simon!
With most of my polos I try to keep low contrast and therefore end up wearing navy polo with dark grey chinos and dark brown loafers. Do you find low contrast outfits elegant?
What are you views on maroon and mustard polos?
Yes Danish, those kind of low contrast outfits are often very elegant. Sometimes harder to do, because you need a set of dark colours that all work together. But still, usually nice and yours sounds good too
More strongly coloured polos, like mustard or maroon, are much harder to wear with dark formal colours like the other ones you describe. They’re more likely to look good with casual fabrics and colours, such as warm browns and greens. More country colours
What is your opinion on cotton polo from gap?
Could that be worn with linen trousers?
A cotton polo can be worn with linen trousers. Gap is pretty poor quality, but if that’s the top of your budget, it’s fine
I agree, Simon, Gap is not a convincing quality for the money, the collar becomes wavy, the fabric is thin and does not hold its shape well. M&S polo is the best option for the same money. Polos with pique fabric are good or just suit for me)
Thank you SVT, that’s useful to hear.
Manish is working on another of his articles looking at the range of cotton pique polos, so if you have any more comments on the ones you’ve tried, it would be great if you could leave them on that article when it’s ready.
What about attaching button to the collar of the same polo you are wearing at the moment. Would it make the collar smart as asked by a previous user?
It means buying a polo from a normal brand attaching buttons by going to a tailor. Very difficult finding a brand which actually has stiff collars.
No, I don’t think buttons on a knitted polo like this are a good idea
hi simon can i get your opinion on how to pair a light blue polo like this with regards shorts without resorting to cream/white shorts: https://theanthology.net/shop/polos/superfine-knitted-short-sleeve-polo-powder-blue
Navy shorts seem a fit but I’m wondering if the total outfit looks too blue? Khaki may be good but the outfit seems too pale? Dark brown doesn’t seem to fit too…
Hey Shem,
It’s not a colour or piece I’ve worn, so hard to give specific advice, but actually dark brown would be one I would wear and find interesting. Cream would obviously work, khaki would need to be quite pale I think, and yes navy would be good but would look quite preppy/corporate perhaps
Hi, Simon. This is a lovely article that I am discovering now as I prepare for the summer (ambitious, yes). I do own a wonderful navy cotton knit short sleeve polo from Gran Sasso, which is really good. Reading your article now, I regret not getting the cream also, it was quite nice too, I just thought it would be as useful. I was wondering why you dislike the light blue colour for this garment? I was planning for that one to be my next number, as the standard pique polos in light blue look really good on me in the summer. Why do you think knits aren’t as good? The white I can see, sure, more transparent, is it also the issue with blue? Also, a tip, I see that you wear yours fairly slim, but I tried on a a size larger and it deliberately got as it is a great fit. It gives more air on hot days and looks as good as a fitted one, just a bit more ‘relaxed’ and ‘nonchalant’ if that makes sense, without losing out on the dressiness.
Thanks Steven, that does and I increasingly favour that too. Still a slim fit, but perhaps sized up.
The thing I dislike about light blue piques is that the colour is never the same as a light-blue shirt, like a classic dress shirt or oxford. That’s not that much of a problem when the polo is worn on its own, but I find it means they don’t look great under jackets or other forms of outerwear
Hey, Simon! Just to check back on this issue with my recent experience and a few questions.
After seeing photos of an older gentleman at Pitti wearing a light blue (a bit darker than pale) knit polo with a rumpled greyish ecru cotton suit I pulled the trigger on a similar seasonal Isis (Cisis) from Smedley (Eventide Blue is the colour) in their lovely summer sale. Am yet to wear it with a jacket, but love the collar, and on its own with light beige chinos it’s amazing. Think with navy or mid-brown jacket and cream or pale grey trousers it will work too. Will place an order for another in Blue Sky that was just added to the sale, which is ‘Anglo-Indian Gauze’ – merino and cotton. What do you think on that fabric? You mentioned somewhere also that Smedley cotton is not that great and that Perro was better – may I ask why? I inquired with Smedley about their Sea Island cotton and the detailed answer was reassuring and the final product feels amazing to the touch and to wear, and not warm at all either. From that same purchase I also kept a long-sleeved seasonal Ccotswold in Blue Sky and made out of that merino-cotton, but had to return a beige (Latte) as it was too transparent. Also learned that my best fit is Easy in M.
The problem with the Smedley cotton, for me, was that it wasn’t very cool, and didn’t hold its shape very well. It prioritises being soft and fine, but that detracts from its breathability and makes it wrinkle more.
The merino and cotton would probably be an improvement, but I havne’t tried it I’m afraid.
Thanks, Simon. I do agree it’s tougher to iron and doesn’t keep shape after washes. I have a similar knit polo from Gran Sasso (navy) and from Knize (yellow – you really should consider trying to review that brand and their amazing store!; yes, crazy expensive bespoke but some of the best RTW I’ve ever seen and great shirts, knitwear, and accessories) both of which are very fine but iron more easily. During wear all perform well though, including heat-wise and I do break a sweat easily.
Also, maybe give a light blue knit polo a shot – surprisingly easy to pair!
Thanks Steven, great recommendations all.
I went to Knize briefly years ago when I was covering Ludwig Reiter, and it was such a lovely place. Must go back again soon
hi simon, i live in a very hot and humid country and love wearing a knit polo and shorts on weekends. I haven’t tried an extensive range of knit ones but I realise the fabric from different makers make a world of difference in terms of comfort in high heat (e.g. uniqlo knit polos feel hot and those with nylon mixed in feels scratchy and uncomfortable). The knit ones from anthology wear very cool and I love it but they have limited colours. I like the look of the smedley isis model but wanted to get your take on how the cotton fabric feels on the skin in hot weather. I read somewhere that smedly wears hot. if thats the case are there any makers you can recommend that have cool/smooth fabrics?
I wouldn’t say that Smedley generally wears hot, but that cotton certainly does – you’d think it would be cooler than wool, but it’s not.
Have you looked at our Finest Polo? It sounds like that would be the kind of thing you were looking for. They will be restocked in a couple of weeks I think
Hey simon, thanks yes i totally forgot about the finest polo. Will there be new colours added? E.g. black?
There will be a new grey colour, yes, alongside the navy and cream
Thanks simon, would you say the finest polo is too smart to be worn with shorts though?
It’s ok with smarter ones – see the shot of me wearing mine with green linen shorts on the post
Hello Shem! I live in India and here the temperature is also hot and humid more than half of the year. I was thinking of buying knitted polo from ‘Zara’ but unsure as to whether it will be good for the hottest of months. It would be great if you could share your experience with knitted polos from ‘Uniqlo’ and whether did it feel too uncomfortable to wear it on the hottest of days.
Hello ayush,
Actually over timr im glad i still have my uniqlo knit polos and i wear them arguably even more than my anthology ones due to fit and design reasons (eg. My uniqlo one has a longer sleeve length and is slightly trimmer in the body and doesnt blouse as much ehen tucked out. For the anthology one it looks better tucked into long pants). Do note uniqlo has stopped selling knit polos for guys in a long while though. If they come back ill most definetely buy them again
Thank you for taking out time and replying.
Could you share your opinion on knitted shirt?
Also do you find knitted shirt to be associated with older people or could it worn by people in mid twenties and thirties?
Thinking maybe it can be as versatile as a knitted polo in summer.
I’m not sure to be honest, I think a lot of it depends on the weight. A summer, light pique cotton for example can be lovely and timeless. And so can a light cardigan as in here. Is that the kind of thing you had in mind?
I am actually facing the same dilema as you as to whether could I wear the lightweight knitted shirt untucked because if not then possibly a linen or an oxford shirt would be the most versatile.
What do you suggest?
I think if you’re in doubt, I’d go for the linen or Oxford – unless you already have plenty of those
Hi simon do you remember what size you are in the isis? It seems very relaxed in fit
I was a medium I think, but I’m afraid I don’t have one anymore, having replaced them with our finest polos
Hi Simon,
Do you recommend these JS polo’s for summer weather?
Thank you.
To be honest no, I designed my own version last year which I think is rather better, as a high-twist merino is cooler and performs much better (non-wrinkle, non-odour)
Simon,
Do we like the charcoal and ecru colors these polls come in? Thoughts on what pants pairs well with those colors.
Sorry Oliver, do you mean the Smedley ones, or PS ones?
Sorry. Smedley!
One other question. With a black knit or pique polo what color pants do you suggest. As always thank you for your answers.
With a black polo I would wear grey trousers, or cream or olive or brown or tan. Quite a lot really.
With charcoal, mostly the same, it’s just not quite as stark and a colour some people prefer therefore.
With cream, almost anything. Navy, green, olive, any shade of brown, black, denim.
Hi simon i know you don’t own the isis polo now but do you recall if the collar crumples like the adrian here? The latter looks pretty messy when worn open necked. Im wondering if thsts the reason most ppl seem to button up their John smedley polos all the way in commercial shots?
The Isis is a larger collar I think, and so looks different. But neither are that robust. I don’t think it’s why they’re done up in the commercial shots though – that’s probably just to illustrate the shape
Simon,
I see that this article is two years old – I wonder if you maintain the preference for John Smedley’s slimmer (standard) cut or if you gravitated toward their easy fit (in the post, you said that Isis is too roomy for you)?
I was thinking about it after reading the post where you say that you currently gravitate towards somewhat roomier jackets. So what about knitted polos?
You’re right, the east fit would be more tolerable now, but I’d still probably stick with the standard fit
Hi Simon,
Could I ask what size you wear for the polos? From my experience of buying PS products, I have noticed I tend to have slightly wider shoulders and a much narrower waist and chest than you.
This means when I wear knitted polos in small, it feels slightly tight around the shoulders but fits nicely on the waist and chest. On the other hand, when I wear a medium, the shoulders fit just right but are pretty baggy around the chest and waist.
I am aware that it’s better to aim for a shoulder fit for the jacket or shirts when buying RTW, but I just wanted to ask your opinion about the polos.
Many thanks,
Jack
I’d do the same with the polos Jack – much more elegant to have a little blousiness at the waist, and more the aesthetic we promote, than being too tight
Thanks, Simon.
What would you recommend with some excess fabrics around the back if I wear a knitted polo with a sports jacket? As wrinkles are pretty visible and messy through the back of the jacket.
Also, are you wearing a medium for John Smedley’s Adrian?
The wrinkles of the polo are visible under the sports jacket? If I understand correctly that must be a fairly transparent or tight-fitting jacket.
Yes, Medium
Hi, Simon. Have you ever tried Sunspel’s Sea Island Cotton knit? Any thoughts? Thanks!
I haven’t, sorry.
Do you like this collar on half sleeve polo t shirts?
Not really Amrinder, it’s pretty tiny and I’m not sure it suits a polo shirt
And how about a stiff collar on polo?
It would be great if you could advice on a couple of things.
1) What is your opinion on pique Cotton polo shirts from normal brands like H&M and Tommy Hilfiger. Would they look elegant?
2) There is a brand making knitted polo in viscose. Is viscose fine for a knitted polo?
1) They could have some style Ayush, but I really couldn’t comment much as I’ve never tried either
2) I wouldn’t wear one, it would remove much of the appeal of a cotton pique polo
Great article!
You say that they work with cream jeans, but would they work with mid-blue or dark jeans? Or is it the case similar to the Friday polos that the contrast would be too much.. Say a navy polo with mid blue jeans, or a white with raw denim.
I’m on a limited budget but at the wardrobe building stage, so trying to make sure my funds are best spent at this earlier stage.
With a really dark raw denim, yes I think it could be nice, less so with a mid-blue
Thank you Simon, much appreciate it
Could you suggest some trouser colours to wear with dark olive polo?
I was not particluarly pleased with grey and olive combination. I was thinking of navy or maybe white.
White or cream will certainly be nice. I’d also suggest black and darker/less yellow shades of beige
What would you buy as your first option between a knitted short sleeve polo and a long sleeves polo which is not knitted and more sporty for summer time wear?
It would entirely depend on how I wanted to dress Ayush, and my lifestyle
Would you wear knitted cotton polo with medium blue jeans?
Yes
How are you Simon? Please excuse the comment on an older post but as I was reading this I had a quick question: Regarding the collar of a polo, would a buttonless polo shirt be acceptable as part of a summer capsule? Or would that be too showy, and not as elegant as a buttoned one. I’d likely get them in cream and one in black, to work with a variety of trousers.
A buttonless polo can be nice – I have one from Rubato I like and am wearing here.
However, if versatility and subtlety are key aims then a buttoned one is probably better.
Ahh! I see, I see. I might do one of each, just to incorporate a little bit of variety while maintaining the versatility. I do love the Anfa knit by Casatlantic you wore in that all black outfit. I wish they’d bring back the single color versions of that polo, although I do like the cream with the green piping.
Sounds good.
I’m not sure how much I’d recommend the Anfa today though, it hasn’t aged that well.
Simon, could you please elaborate on this? How has it aged poorly? In terms of quality/make or style or both? Thanks in advance!
A little bit the style, with that much lower neckline. But more the quality – it’s a simple piece in a soft material without any structure, and I’ve found it loses shape quite easily. Casatlantic are changing their quality a bit now, as I’ve seen recently on trousers this season, but it was always quite a simple make (reflected in the price of course), which is OK in a pair of utility trousers or an overshirt, but for me affects knits and polos more
What about the ageing of your casatlantic trousers?