The key functional aspect of trouser cloth is the body that enables it to drape well and hold its shape.
It should throw a nice, clean line down the leg, hold its crease, and recover from wrinkling when hung at the end of the day.
Unfortunately, this is much easier with heavy materials. In summer there is therefore a consistent trade off between coolness and performance.
In this latest instalment in our Guide to Cloth series, we will run through the different options – the fibres, yarns, weaves and finishes – to make you aware of exactly what these trade-offs are.
It is then up to you which trouser cloth you pick – one which, as we will see, is largely a question of style.
Linen is often seen as the king of summer cloths. It certainly has functional appeal: it is cool to the touch and breathes well.
The biggest downside is style: some dislike how much it wrinkles, and for many others this feature just makes it too informal for the office or other formal environments.
The effect can be mitigated by heavier weights (as is the case with all these trade offs).
Irish linens, coming in around 11 or 12 ounces, hold their shape much better than 8 or 9 ounce Italian versions, and are still very cool. I tend to wear and prefer them.
Cotton generally performs slightly better than linen in terms of wrinkling, and can be woven quite tightly, which helps more.
Cotton gabardine, for example, is a tightly woven twill – a twill having more cloth in it per inch, and therefore having more body, and gabardine being a particularly tight twill weave.
Cotton can also come in two-way mixes (a little wool or cashmere) and a variety of finishes. Linen, by contrast, tends to be a simple plain weave and have a simple finish. Herringbone linens have a tiny bit more body.
The problem with cotton is that it lacks the elegance of both linen and wool.
“Linen rumples, cotton creases,” Audie Charles of the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery says, aphoristically. “Cotton tends to look like a dirty shirt when it’s hot and worn.”
Oliver Spencer, trouser cutter round the corner at Anderson & Sheppard’s bespoke shop, agrees: “Cottons not only crease but the colours tend to be brighter and more garish than the same in linen.”
I tend to wear cotton more as a casual trouser. It definitely has a coolness than can be attractive, but the style is a very casual, almost workwear one.
For some this might be an attraction; for others, the opposite of what they’re looking for.
Which brings us to arguably the best of all fibres, wool.
Wool has the obvious advantage of recovering well after wear. Hang up a pair after a day, and it will have lost most of its creasing by morning.
In general, animal fibres (wool, silk etc) will always crease less easily than plant fibres (cotton, linen etc).
Wool also responds well to moisture, and therefore can have its creases fairly easily steamed out of it, unlike cotton and linen.
That performance can be enhanced by twisting the yarn, to make a high-twist wool. This increases both its elasticity and its crease resistance.
The only disadvantage to high-twist wools is that they tend to feel crispy, rather than smooth like a normal worsted – or, noticeably in summer, like linen.
Interestingly, the best known of summer wools is fresco, yet it is not necessarily high twist.
Rather, fresco has been defined by using relatively coarse wool, traditionally a particular weave, and a lack of finish that gives it a raw feeling.
That raw, dry feel was historically associated with a cloth feeling cool and fresh – which in a way I can see. Softer things will often feel warmer against the skin.
But today it’s hard to make an argument for fresco, given its roughness and the need for many customers to line trousers made from it as a result – negating the supposedly cool feeling.
A finer, more finished high-twist wool is likely to be better. “It doesn’t have to be superfine – Super 100s is fine,” says Anthony Rowland at Henry Poole. “If it’s not too lightweight, that kind of cool wool can be perfect for a smart summer trouser.”
Some wools will also be open in their weave than others, but this doesn’t make much difference.
Unlike a jacketing, an open weave can’t be taken too far in a trouser without it quickly losing its shape. (And there’s normally less tolerance for transparency.)
A last word should be said about fibre mixes – usually a mix of three out of wool, linen, cotton and silk.
Cotton/linen can be nice in more casual trousers, such as chinos and shorts.
But it’s rarely a good idea in formal trousers – better to mix one or both with wool, in order to get its recovery and crease-resistance.
Silk can have a similar beneficial effect, but usually it’s added for a particular look and feel, so carefully consider the style of anything with a high silk content.
Style, then, is a big driver of what cloth to go for in a summer trouser.
Linen is wonderful – truly one of God’s gifts – and I understand why some people are as fanatical about it as they are about flannel in the winter. But its style will simply make it a non-option for lots of people.
Cotton has its appeal, but it is a style one and a narrower one than linen.
Lightweight wool is likely to be the safest option, particularly with smarter outfits for the office, or with a sharply tailored jacket.
But consider whether you really like the crispiness of high-twist wool before you go with it.
As with all these guides, I won’t recommend specific cloths or bunches.
This is both because I haven’t tried them all, and because the differences between the various mills are much smaller than the variation described above – primarily in fibre, but also in yarn, weave and finish.
Photography, from the top of the post including header: Scabal, Luke Carby, Simon Crompton, Simon Crompton, Andy Barnham, Jamie Ferguson, Luke Carby, Jamie Ferguson
Sort of related but in respect of summer trousers, what leg opening would you opt for when and if going sockless. Really I am asking about casual (mainly holiday) outfits – summer chinos, cotton trousers etc. Being on the shorter side of adv height 15/15.5 inch on some of my incotex seems way to bulky around the ankle. Im thinking of altering down to 14/14.5
Personally I’d prefer to stay around 15 to 15.5, but it does depend on other proportions, as you say
Yay! Another instalment of the Guide to Cloth. Quick question if you don’t mind, Simon: Coupled with the usual weather precautions like umbrellas, which trouser fibre would you say has the best chance of keeping the shins dry in the case of brief exposure to light or moderate rain?
Warmest regards,
Joseph
Wool is generally best. It dries quicker, and remains warmer when wet. Cotton is useless for that – hence the old Army phrase ‘cotton kills’ in regards to uniforms.
Well put. Thanks Simon!
Simon
Do you ever get summer wool trousers unlined?
Thanks.
Yes, I usually do. Only not when the cloth is a little rough, like fresco
I’ve tried summer cotton trousers, but I am unsatisfied. They are too warm for summer in Italy and they don’t regulate temperatures. I’ve always refused to try linen because of 7-8oz linen looks like garbage after 5-15min of use ahhahaahah and 12-13oz (W.Bill) is too heavy for our temperatures. Fresco wool or high-twist trousers are more indicated for climate like italian-one. I am really happy with Monadh by Holland & Sherry (for hottest days) and Crispaire as well as Cape Horn. This summer I’m planning to try Finmeresco or Gilt Edge (by Smith Woollens)
Interesting point regarding fresco’s appropriateness for summer. I opted for a navy fresco fabric for the purposes of a suit for my upcoming wedding (September), and have been surprised at each fitting by the stiffness of the material, which feels like a strong mitigating factor against the coolness the open weave affords. Having said that, I’ve only worn it indoors so have yet to get a sense of how it breathes out in the open.
Mr Roetzel, the authorof the book The Gentlemen, recommended as well Barathea cloth. I haven´t found much information about that. Would you recommend it as well and if yes, why?
Best regards
Phil
In general Phil, I wouldn’t recommend it for a summer trouser – only for more formal outfits such as evening wear.
Barathea is a weave based on the satin foundation. See the cloth guide here:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2017/01/the-guide-to-cloth-weaves-and-designs.html
I’m very surprised by your comments on fresco, as they are rather inaccurate.
All frescoes are high twist, and finished with an open weave; the method of weaving was patented, being designed in particular for warm weather. It is this rather than the hardness of the cloth which makes it wear cooler, and nothing at all to do with hard vs soft against the skin.
Thanks. It is usually high twist today, but isn’t necessarily and hasnt always been historically. It was defined by the weave, as you mention and I do too, by the lack of finish and by the relative coarseness of the wool. As with all information here, this comes from multiple sources at mills, not from myself
Sorry to have to correct you Simon, and I appreciate you are learning as you go along, but Fresco was patented in 1907 by Martin & Sons as a high twist, breathable yarn. Not as a name, but as a method of construction.
That is now, and has been, the basis of fresco construction.
As I said, this is not me learning. This is the result of several interviews with mill managers – all my writing is and has always been based on similar research.
The fact it was patented as that does not mean it is necessarily how it has been defined in the industry over the past hundred years.
It would be helpful to clarify your definition as well – a yarn can be high twist but not breathable. The weave can be breathable and the weave can have a particular construction.
Perhaps you should read the patent; you would then accept I am right and you are not. It is my profession, not my hobby.
There is too much “false news” around these days.
Thank you. Let’s leave the discussion here though, that’s enough about the technicalities of fresco for anyone.
Simon I think the roughness of fresco is less of an issue these days; Finmeresco has a smoothish finish, and Minnis lll is very soft to the hand compared with ll. The loose weave does make them very breathable cloths for warmer climates.
I agree with the comment on Gilt Edge, which is a favourite of mine for the summer, and which despite its weight holds well as a trouser. And, not for the first time, let me suggest bamboo; smooth, light, cool, crease resistant and, rather nicely, quite a talking point.
Thanks Nick. Yes, there is a question of whether you define historically as I mention, or current offerings. I guess current makes more sense.
They are certainly all breathable, but I’ve generally preferred others with more of a finish
Simon, the blue loafers with tassels in the cover picture. Do you now where the shoes are from?
I have a pair of wool-linen mix trousers that are easily the most comfortable and cool summer trousers I own.
Interesting post… does the cut make any difference? I favour slim (not skinny!) trousers but find in warmer weather a lightweight fabric with a slim cut doesn’t feel as cool as a wider cut.
Yes it does a little. Wider trouser legs may well have more air circulation.
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this timely post!
Tropical wool trousers look lovely. But allegedly, they’re not as cool as fresco. Is it really the case even when they’re light weight?
I love linen jackets, but over the years I’ve noticed that I only wear them with cotton trousers. And yet I’ve no explicit rationale for such a choice.
John
They generally won’t be quite as cool, no.
Linen jackets often end up being worn with cotton trousers, because they can’t obviously be worn with linen trousers, and a linen jacket might be considered more casual and therefore suited to more casual trousers. But I would encourage them worn with a high-twist wool.
I’m late here in my question but could you explain this comment about not wearing linen trousers and jackets together? I am not not much of an expert on clothing.
It can work, but as a rule of thumb it’s worth avoiding having both in linen – unless it’s a suit of course. This is because you generally want some contrast between jacket and trouser if they are from different materials, in colour but also in texture
Silk-linen is a blend that, in my experience, combines the lightness and breath-ability of linen with the wrinkle resistance of silk. I have bone-coloured trews in this cloth that I would wear everyday if I could get away with it: they go with everything, they’re light as air, and theyhold a decent crease.
I second the point that cut is important. In Summer, a slightly looser cut all round, and with a higher hem.
You describe linen as typically a twill … unless my eyes deceive me, that’s not the case.
You’re right, thanks. Typo – that should have been plain weave
Hi Simon,
Where would you rank mohair? Would you consider it similar to a high twist wool or is it considered too warm for summer clothing? Thanks.
It is probably most similar to the wools, yes, being an animal fibre.
It is quite cool, but the decision to wear it or not is always going to be 99% a style one, given its distinctive surface and crispness
This post gave me the idea to commission a pair of tan Crispaire trousers. To wear with odd summer jackets, mainly navy or just with a shirt or polo. Simon, what’s your opinion on this?
Sounds really nice
A word about Crispaire. I have several trousers made of this and I am only fond of it because tropical wool simply wears out too quickly for my liking. But Crispaire has it’s own issue as a summer material. It’s heavy. Yes, it has a high twist and open weave and, as a result, durability. But I must warn you that the weight will be noticed in the dog days of August. But, as I mentioned, tropical wool is neither cool nor durable. At least you stand a chance of being cool in Crispaire if you catch a breeze with the open weave. And I find Fresco to be lighter than Crispaire, but it doesn’t drape as nicely as tropical wools or Crispaire. In other words, choose your poison, sir……
Thanks Jackson
Hello, Simon. The raw silk is not the breathing material like others. I would like to call them summer tweed. However, I’ve noticed some gentlemen wearing the silk suits in the old movie. How do you think the silk suits nowadays?
Silk does have some cooling properties, but generally a 100% silk suit suffers from a certain look more than anything else – either a bit shiny, or with an odd slubbiness. Also not great in trousers unless pretty heavy.
Hi Simon
Regarding your March post on cavalry twill trousers do you think a good quality pair in navy would go well with a mid grey 13/14 oz woolen herringbone jacket( Australian winter).
Potentially, yes, though bear in mind that I’ve always said navy is a difficult colour to wear as an odd trouser. Generally charcoal or even dark green will be safer
I have crispaire trousers and they are very balanced and wearable 3 or even 4 seasons with appropriate choice of knee socks.
I have also tried 100% silk trousers. It was an interesting experience, but they loose shape too much and I would not repeat this experiment.
Hi Hristo
Do you have the crispaire unlined? Also, do they hold a crease well?
Thanks
They are partially lined (for example on the knees).
Yes, they hold crease pretty well.
Simon
How about summer flannel?.Appreciate if you could share some insight on light flannel of 8 to 10 oz..
Nik
Not a big fan I’m afraid. You lose pretty much everything of what makes flannel nice (this will be worsted flannel).
Better going for one of the other summer wools mentioned here.
@ NIK ISMAIL ALMURTADZA: don’t go for lightweight Flannel. It loses its shape so fast and that’s horrible. I’ve tried 10/11oz Marling & Evans light grey with few success.
@Anonymous under Hristo: go! Crispaire unlined for summer. It holds shape well.
Crispaire not itchy?
nope
no, don’t worry.
Mohair cloth from William Halstead is a magnificent summer cloth. Cool, lovely texture, comfortable, perfect balance of elegance and fun.
Something I’ve been wondering about linen – both trousers and jackets: What to do in between wears. Sending them to the cleaners seems like overkill, but starting the day wrinkled seems like a bit too much of an embrace of wrinkles. Trousers can be ironed, but what about a coat?
I think you need to embrace I’m afraid. As Will Boelhke once said, linen looks best the first time it’s worn and the 10th. You need to get to the 10th
With respect to linen, you mentioned above that Will Boelhke once said that linen looks best the first time it’s worn and the 10th”.
I take it that this quote means that you simply get used to the wrinkles (i.e., embrace them) by the time you’ve worn them 10 times.?
No, more that the wrinkles have become so abundant by the 10th wear that they become attractive.
I really like the first picture but wonder about the versality of a navy loafer. They look gorgeous but isnt a brown color more safe? I own 3 loafers (different shades of brown) but are thinking about buying a navy pair. But are they too dandyish?
Yes, buy brown first. Navy only as a second pair, or even third after a tan
Simon,
I think the London Lounge Brisa and Piuma summer cloths also deserves mention.
Brisa is a 13oz open weave like fresco, but butter soft and is really crease resistant. A wonderful cloth both for travel and wears very cool if unlined.
Brisas have been made in solid colours like navy (I know you have said before that you are not a fan of some of the LL designs). I really hope you try Brisa (or other LL cloth as Piuma or Mistral) soon, as that is cloth far superior to what is discussed in this post and may change your perspective somewhat.
It would be something if someone with your influence in the bespoke world became a fan of this quality of cloth and managed to convince the merchants to offer regular books in this quality. Maybe even a Permanent Style curated book? Now that would be something:)
Thanks,
S
Simon,
Would that kind of collaboration not be worthwhile? To get LL quality out to the “masses” would be another great feat for this blog.
Thanks,
S
Perhaps, yes. Obviously if I did my own cloth book it would probably be more of my personal selections, but it would be good to write more about the LL options
Simon – I think this has been asked before, but I’m interested in an up to date answer – where in London can you buy cloth yourself that you can then take to your tailor? I’ve made a couple of mistakes when choosing cloth from small swatches before. Thanks!
There are very few. My top two recommendations would be visiting Scabal and Holland & Sherry on Savile Row and asking what cloths they have in bigger lengths to see – or what can be ordered in.
Even if you’re not buying straight from them, this gives you the ability to see the cloth at scale before ordering with the tailor.
Hi Simon, following on the points raise above and yes, you’ve consistently said navy trousers are hard to match but can you suggest what colour and patterns that matches well with navy trousers…..
Hi Pat,
Pretty much any colour and pattern will go with navy trousers – just as long as the colour and/or pattern means there is sufficient contrast to the trouser.
The problem with navy trousers is that they often look like a piece taken from a suit, even in more casual cloths. It is for this reason that I recommend against them.
S
Does this also apply to chinos worn without a crease? Aren´t they closer to blue jeans?
No, it doesn’t. Blue chinos are fine.
Thank you for posting this informative blog on the trouser trends this summer. It seems cotton is the best fabric to wear in summer. This blog will serve as pointers to a lot of people who are confused about what to wear in summer. Looking forward to reading more helpful posts in the future.
Seersucker? Or is it too American? Works well in the high heat and humidity of the Deep South. Wrinkles? So what? It’s seersucker.
Perhaps as a jacket, but not separate trousers
Hi Simon,
Very quickly, if you only had 3 summer trousers and 3 summer jackets, what material and what colors would you have them?
Not easy to answer quickly I’m afraid! I’ll think about it and maybe do a separate post, but of course it also depends on what situations you want them for – eg office or not
Of course. I was thinking something from casual to business casual. Given a choice between linen, hopsack and something like fresco or crispaire, for both pants and jacket, which would you go with?
A little more information doesn’t help that much I’m afraid – if I’m to give a truly useful answer, that isn’t misleading, it would have to be lengthy and not really suited to a comment thread.
Quick things that might be useful though:
– Fresco/Crispaire for suits or trosuers, not jackets
– Hopsack generally for jackets, not suits, though heavier versions can work
What about linen? You said in your “how to dress in summer” post that you like it better than fresco or other high twist wools. Is that still true and did it apply to trousers, jackets or both?
Thanks
Still true, and it applies to both. I’m this piece I talk largely for men as a whole, rather for myself. For many, linen is too casual for their offices
Another considered, helpful and timely article – and after a wardrobe review over the long-weekend, a challenge I need to address!
Thank you Simon
Best wishes,
Andrew
Simon, quick question, do you have any thoughts on pleats for linen trousers? I tend to have double pleats and love them on my wool trousers, but it always seemed a bit weird on a more casual cloth like linen. But then I saw one of those pictures from your style guide, and now I am somewhat uncertain…seems like it can work…but also on the heavier linens I tend to prefer?…etc.
Any thoughts welcome as always.
Regards
Thomas
I wouldn’t leave them off for the sake of formality, but the functionality can be undermined a little by the creases of linen
Hey Simon, I have found darker oatmeal in combined shades of brown and grey in wool/linen blends to wear incredibly cool. Although they crease, it is my go to trouser to wear with linen and polo shirts for smart casual Fridays. On that note, I’m wondering if you have any suggestions for colors and cloths for summer trousers which can be worn in similar occasions? I have found cream/white linen to be quite showy. I have grey crispaire and fresco but find them too smart as well.
Charcoal, then dark green
I know that you like fairly slim fitting trousers but have you ever considered a summer trouser styled in the manner of Cary Grant in the movie To Catch A Thief?Personally,I think the style works only with a thin sweater or long sleeve polo shirt but not with a jacket .In the latter case the wider trouser leg just makes the outfit look too loose and somewhat old fashioned.
It’s a good point. I do have some wider-legged trousers (sometimes higher waisted) and I do find them easier to wear with just knitwear, rather than a jacket.
Simon et al, what fabric weight of wool trouser would you recommend for a summer trouser vs a year-round wool ? Perhaps a lightweight fabric may start to look to flimsy – like a worsted wool suit trouser?
It’s less about the weight, James, and more about the yarn and weave. Get a high twist summer cloth, like fresco, and it will hold its line fairly well
hey simon how useful would a pair of mid grey linen trousers be?
Thinking of commissioning one but not sure if it’s useful – grey being better in wool and linen being better in less formal colours?
No, I think grey linen is actually an overlooked area for linen
I have a pair of dark grey linen trousers from Stòffa. They work equally well with a polo and sneakers as they do with loafers and unlined chukkas and a lightweight jacket in the office. Granted, not as formal as a high twist wool, but if you like linen and can wear it, it’s a great choice.
Simon, what weight do you recommend for tailored cotton trousers in the summer? I’ve recently picked up a pair of 265g cotton twill trousers from Brisbane Moss which I’m wearing in Sweden (around 2-4C) right now and they’re fine, so I’m thinking they would be too heavy for summer. But on the flip side, I fear the cottons I’m considering for summer (160-190g or so) would be quite flimsy..
265g is pretty light. You should be ok for most of the year. Remember you can wear more weight on your legs than upper body as they get less hot and cold
Hi Simon,
I come from a tropical country which can be very humid and hot.
Would you recommend dry cleaning of summer wool pants after say 4 uses?
Any other tips are welcomed!
Many Thanks!
Shane
It depends, if they start to smell then yes. But some people sweat a lot less than others
Thanks Simon.
To be more specific, they are Holland and Sherry’s Intercity wool fabric.
Is it recommended to hand wash them instead of dry cleaning or machine washing them?
Many Thanks!
Shane
No, dry clean
Hi Simon
I am looking for summer casual trousers ( Spain is so hot in summer).
I am considering one pair of 100% linen ( 390 grs).
Other option is a mix 75% cotton 25% linen (370grs).
Are this options ok for a fresh casual trouser?
Thanks very much
Yes, they’d be very nice, with the cotton mix more casual than the linen
Hey simon, what are your thoughts on khaki crispaire as a pair of odd summer trouser? Would it be too formal given its drape and smoothness to work casually with (polos and t-shirts) and yet, too casual in color to work in more formal situations?
Also, would there be a specific shade of khaki you would recommend? More towards mid brown or towards yellow? Many thanks!
It would be too formal for tees and polos, yes, but could happily work with sports jackets – just depends how formal you have to be, as grey will always be smarter
Shem (and Simon, too),
I have a pair of yellow-y khaki crispaire trousers from Luxire styled pretty casually. I find that they can work well with darker polos (navy, green, etc), especially if hot and sunny. In my experience, how well they work is context dependent (bright sunny day in a more casual US office) . For me, they’re very versatile and get quite a lot of wear both with and without a jacket.
Hi Simon,
I have one sand color W/L/S suit and really love the cool and dry feeling when wearing it in the summer. But I found it’s not easy to separate the trousers to pair other sport jacket. What’s your opinion of wool/linen/silk odd trousers?
In general they don’t work that well as separates – not enough body and drape unfortunately.
Hey Simon. 2 questions
1) what are some summer fabrics you would recommend for trousers which are incredibly hard wearing?
2) what shades of grey for odd trousers do you recommend if one has light and mid grey covered? Would something between mid grey and charcoal be versatile or should one stick to mid grey or charcoal?
Many thanks!
1) For smart trousers you mean? Probably high-twist cloths like Fresco, but in heavier weights. Bear in mind you’re always going to be sacrificing something with that equation on a pair of trousers, given for something to be light and breathable it normally can’t be as hard-wearing
2) That shade might be nice, but charcoal would be my next choice. Largely because just a little bit darker than mid-grey might not be sufficiently different to look any different in outfits, or go better with anything in particular
Simon, I know it’s very hard to generalise, as there are so many variables, but how would you say cotton performs relative to wool in terms of keeping cool? Would a 300g cotton wear warmer, cooler, or the same as a relatively open weave wool (fresco/crispaire) etc?
It will feel cooler to the touch, but won’t breathe as well as wool or be as great with smells/sweat
Hi Simon,
since smells and sweat is mentioned, which is an essential parameter during summer or during other sudatory activities like dancing, i was wondering if a mixture of wool with synthetic fibers would perform better here.
I am about to commission my first trousers purely for dancing argentine tango. This kind of trousers usually have wide legs and double pleats on the front and even pleats on the back side. My first research regarding materials resulted that, that kind of trousers are usually made either from 100% synthetic or from a mixture of synthetic and a maximum of 50% woolen fibers.
Nobody of those specialized tailors could really answer my question why not 100% woolen. Most of them said that due to the synthetic portion a better drape of this wide trousers can be achieved plus minimization of creasing. Some also mentioned the cost factor, meaning 100% woolen would make them too expensive.
That kind of trousers are usually made to measure, with very poor finishing (to keep the cost low) and the price is ranging usually between 100 and 200 Euros. One can choose out of a small range of fabrics but bringing your own is not welcome and even refused from some of those tailors, because the ones they are offering have a “guaranteed” and “tested” drape.
What are your thoughts on making such trousers of a 100% woolen fabric? For instance, out of a very high twist? Or fresco? And what is your opinion of making them out of linen or a mixture of linen with cotton or even linen with wool? In regard of performance in Sweat/Smells, Creasing and Drape?
I really would appreciate your thoughts on that.
Many thanks in advance!
Hi Christos,
Synthetics will smell more, but they will be hard wearing, remain sharp and be considerably cheaper than wool. I’d imagine that is why such trousers are made from synthetics – because the wear is hard, and the budget cannot be big because they won’t last as long.
I’d suggest using 50% wool if you could, but I’d hesitate to recommend 100% wool or linen, just because I’m not that familiar with how they will be worn, and in particular how hard.
Simon
Do you think navy linen could work as separate trousers? Or do you feel, with navy trousers , material is irrelevant?
It’s not irrelevant – it works better in serge than worsted, for example, and ok in a cotton chino. But I don’t think it’s great in linen when worn with other tailoring, no
Thanks for the reply. In terms of weight for separate trousers, is 10/11oz ok? Or would you go to 12oz if it’s available? In past posts , you suggest the former is ok. However, would it be better to go heavier?
Thanks in advance.
I’d go a.touch heavier, but you won’t notice much difference between 11 and 12
As always, many thanks and hope the pop-up shop goes well.
Can you elaborate on why you think navy linen doesn’t work? I understand why you think worsted wool does not (looks like an orphaned suit trouser). But I assume that’s not the reason for linen.
To be clear, with both I’m just saying that it is hard to work as part of formal combination, with a jacket. Fine with knitwear, just a shirt etc.
Looking like it’s part of a suit is only a problem with navy worsted. Navy is still hard to wear as an odd trouser in other materials, eg flannel. It’s not impossible, but other colours like greys, browns, greens and other naturals usually look better.
Dear Simon, thank you for the article.
I’m not sure if you touched on this matter, but do you have lining in your linen pants? I’m considering commissioning a pair or two made out of Sobliati Linen (Tolomeo and\or Quarantalino) and I’d appreciate your advice.
Thank you in advance!
Hi Michael. It varies, but usually no I don’t
Thank you Simon for answering my question!
And I apologize; I meant to write “Solbiati”.
Once again, thank you and have a lovely weekend!
Dear Simon,
Please excuse my curiosity, but you said that the choice of applying lining to your linen pants “varies”; could you please enlighten me as to when you would choose to have your linen pants lined?
Thank you!
It’s mostly just that I’ve been inconsistent over the years Michael. To be honest, I don’t think it makes a big difference to performance, given the lining is just on the top of the front of the leg
Thank you for the insight, Simon!
Hi Simon
I am finally going to brave it with white linen trousers. However, being relatively modest I was thinking of getting them lined. How far should you go with the lining? Up to the top of the knees or below the knees?I am making them with a tab and button flat front but EZ elasticated band on the sides. Fairly loose and with a wide leg opening. The fabric is by Burgoyne linen (Irish) and fairly substantial. Thanks.
Half lining always goes just below the knees, so go with that.
And go for cream or off-white if you’re worried about them being showy
Hi Simon,
What kind of cloth is Venetian? Huddersfield Fine Worsteds apparently sell this under their “Eskdale” trousering bunch. Maybe not a suitable summer fabric.
It’s a weave rather than a particular cloth, and similar to satin weaves. It’s mentioned briefly in our A-Z of Cloth
A previous post helpfully points to a couple odd trouser staples for fall and winter (grey flannel, chinos, moleskin, cream trousers, etc). What would your top 4 or 5 be for summer (cloth type and color)?
Colour would depend a lot on your lifestyle, but I’d say maybe two linen, one cotton, two high-twist wool? Maybe cream and olive linen, cream or beige cotton, and two shades of grey for wool
That’s very helpful, thank you. What books and weight would you recommend for each? From what I could glean 9 oz Irish linen (of which book)? And unsure about the others…
That’s a fairly big question – best to read.other posts on the site about cotton, trousers, high twist etc separately. But briefly I’d say 11oz Irish linen from someone like W Bill, high twist my favourite is Crispaire from Holland & Sherry, cotton more complicated. But read separate posts on each of those
The 11 oz linen from W Bill feels like it will really hold up but the weave is relatively tight and not open. Doesn’t this negate the cooling properties of linen?
Have you tried Moygashel linen before Simon?
No, the linen is fairly open in weave even if it doesn’t look it. Not as much as a high twist but more than anything else. Linen as a fibre also benefits from being cool to the touch, unlike wool. Have a look at our Guide to Linen for more on that.
No I haven’t tried Moygashel but linens don’t vary much if they’re tight enough to work for tailoring
Simon, what is a good weight for crispaire high twist for Los Angeles summers?
I’m thinking of a 12 oz W Bill Irish linen. Is that too heavy?
And a good weight and mill for cream cottons/ chinos?
I forgot your answer to this: half lined or completely unlined for LA? Thank you
Crispaire is a bunch from Holland & Sherry and only comes in one weight, 9/10 ounce.
No, that’s fine for Bill linen.
I have yet to find a material I really like for tailored chinos, but the closest I have come across is the from Drapers, 420g, as seen here
See your previous question for lined/unlined
This would be for LA/beachy Santa Barbara weather. Unlined for all?
Yes, unlined
Hi Simon,
Do you feel Crispaire would be aesthetically inappropriate in autumn/winter? Not to do with temperature, as it would be worn almost purely indoors, but does the cloth ‘look’ too much like a spring/summer cloth to you?
No I don’t think so. Particularly not to the vast majority of the population who wouldn’t know what the fabric is (unlike, say, linen)
You said that cotton/linen mix is rarely a good idea for formal trousers. How do you define formal trouser in this context?
Is a linen/wool mix significantly more breathable as a pure lightweight wool trouser and significantly more crease resistant than a pure linen trouser? Or what linen mix would you recommend as a good alternative for high twist trousers?
Any trousers worn with the aim of appearing smart or elegant. If the trousers are meant to be worn with a T-shirt and trainers, then if they’re floppy and don’t hold a crease it’s less of a problem.
I haven’t had trousers in just linen/wool and their performance would depend on the mix of the two. But they would have the potential to have those two advantages, yes
Found your post interesting to read. I can not wait
to see your article. Good Luck for your upcoming update.This article is really very interesting and effective.
King regards,
Thompson Duke
Hi Simon,
even after reading this informative article, I´m still wondering which cloth I should choose for a pair of trousers that I would like to wear either a bit more formal with a sportcoat and also more relaxed with a polo shirt or a merino sweater and loafers or sneakers for example. Is there a cloth that could match these criterias? I´m just starting to build my wardrobe and have so far two chinos, one dark grey flannel and a navy blue heavy cotton brisbane moss trouser. I was now thinking about a trouser for spring/summer in light grey or brown. Please share your thoughts with me!
Kind regards,
Jens
Hey Jens,
I think you might be aiming for something that doesn’t exist, unfortunately. The two best summer options are a high-twist wool, which would be great with the sports coats but too casual for trainers; and linen, which could go with all of it, though might struggle still with the trainers, and is rather season-specific.
The only other option I can think of is chinos that are smart and tailored enough to work with the sports jackets. Do either of yours work in that way?
Hi Simon,
thanks a lot for your answer! You are probably right and the kind of trousers which I had in my mind don´t exist! I like the idea with the tailored chinos very much. I believe that a Brisbane Moss cotton would be a good option then, don´t you agree?
Yes, that would be a fine cotton. But I think you would find it would feel very much like a tailored trouser, rather than a chino like you are used to. The principle reason being that the RTW ones are garment washed.
Thank you very much, Simon and Happy Easter by the way!
Cheers Jens, you too
Are grey high twist wool trousers any good for combining them with heavier jackets? Since my wardrobe is rather casual, I intend to only own one summer sport coat (pale brown wool/linen). Is it worth it to go for light grey high twists to wear them with casual jackets and heavier sport coats in spring/fall? The other option would be to get light grey linen for general summer casual, and then perhaps light grey flannels for colder months.
I think it depends a little on how cold you get. Certainly, high-twists wouldn’t really look out of place in colder months, where linen for example would. So no danger there.
However, wouldn’t the high twists be much sharper and harder to combine with casual wardrobe? If I recall correctly, you have mentioned in a post that they are much more “formal” than linen or even flannels
Yes they are, sorry it’s hard to know how casual you mean. They’re fine with a sports jacket, and some casual jackets like a Valstarino and a shirt, but nothing more casual than that.
I see, I should have been more specific. By casual I mean I rarely wear sport coats. Mostly casual jackets, overcoats, knits, oxford shirts/polos/tshirts, cotton trousers with an odd flannel thrown in. It seems that linen will work better.
Yes you’re probably right. Also cottons, or corduroy, though less for warm weather too
I’ve seen some places do a ‘tropical wool’ is this a synonym for high twist wool.
Hi Simon! Thank you so much for such an lovely and informative post. I have few doubts and it would be really helpful if you could help solve it.
1) You have always said that you are not a fan of ‘made to measure or bespoke chino’ and therefore a person should try and find ready to wear chino for himself. Unfortunately even after a lot of trying and alteration to my off the rack chino, i am not satisfied with the overall fit and look of it and therefore at this point of time i do not have a single pair of trouser which can work in a smart casual environment other than a pair of linen trousers. Do you have any other alternative to ‘ready to wear chino’?
2) Are wool trousers appropriate for smart casual function?
3) Can i wear wool trousers with just a button down shirt( no jacket)?
Would my odd trouser look like an incomplete suit if i am just wearing it with a button down shirt and not wearing a jacket? Asking this question because a lot of times i would be attending functions where jackets would be a bit formal?
Would love to hear your opinion on this matter.
Thanks.
1) If you want something made, your options are probably flannel (to answer question 2) which is great as a smart casual option, though better in slightly colder weather. Or MTM chinos from the likes of Stoffa or a similar company
2) Yes, but ‘wool’ encompasses a big range of trousers. Aim for the more casual end, which generally means ones with more texture, softer and not in the darkest colours.
3) Not at all, that’s fine. Just err towards the casual end of the wool trousers spectrum. And if you want something over the top of the shirt, you can always wear a sleeveless cardigan or an overshirt perhaps
Thank you so much Simon for taking out time and answering my questions.
I just visited a tailor today and he told me a couple of points which i would love to share with you and i would be obliged if you could advice on the same. Sorry if i am disturbing you in any manner.
1) He said that if i take a tailored cotton trouser which is darker in colour(supposedly dark olive green) then it would not be much different than ready to wear chino. He was of the opinion that tailored cotton trousers would look formal only when the trouser is lighter in colour. Do you agree with his opinion?
2) He also said that if i am not very keen on cotton trousers than for smart casual i can go for dark olive green wool trousers which is quite apt for smart casual functions and can be worn without a jacket and it would also not look like an incomplete suit because of its colour.
Would love to hear your opinion on it as well.
Thanks
1) No I don’t I’m afraid. The difference is the trouser won’t be garment washed, and the material he has available will be smarter. Unfortunately, tailors are rarely a good guide here – they only know what they make.
2) The colour might help there, yes, but the bigger points are the ones I’ve already made about the cloth itself. Dark olive in a smooth worsted wool will still look smart.
Just ordered a pair of dark green olive wool ‘MTM’trouser. Thank you so much for the advice.
I am also thinking of ordering an Irish linen trouser 11oz for summer as i am getting it at a very reasonable price.
What is your opinion on dark olive green Irish linen trouser for summer and spring in India? Can linen be used for smart casual function and could i just wear linen trousers with a nice fitting shirt and a good pair of shoes( sans jacket). In total could linen be an alternate to flannel trousers in summer?
This is the first time i would be ordering linen trouser and therefore any advice from your side would be highly appreciated.
Thanks.
Yes Ayush, linen trousers could work very well in that respect
A beautiful read Simon!
I have a pair of charcoal grey wool trousers which want to wear with a shirt sans jacket for a smart casual ensemble. Do you think it could be done it would charcoal grey wool would like a suit trouser?
There is certainly that risk Kailash, yes. Some wools will look less like that – if they have more texture for example. However, if you’re unsure then I would go for a more casual colour.
Can i maybe put an overshirt on top of it to negate that effect?
That might help, yes
Hi Simon,
Beginning to thnik about next summeer season. Do you think hopsack / mesh fabrics can work for a full suit? I was wondering if the type of weaving would make it too fragile for trousers especially. I would say it is one of the few fabrics that allow a range of use, as the jacket could be used as a separate quite easily, if the construction allows it (patch pockets, sioft shoulders etc.). Thanks. G
Generally, no I wouldn’t recommend those materials for suits. Heavier hopsacks can be OK, but it’s generally not a great idea.
A few years late but what are the green trousers (cape horn bespoke) at the bottom of the piece?
You mean in the second to last image? Those are RTW green linen, old ones from Paul Stuart.
Or do you mean the suit in the last image? That was covered here.
Excluding linen, can you recommend some specific fabrics (or fabric types) for a cream summer trouser?
Generally you’ll be looking at cottons for something more casual (see here) or fine wools for something smarter (see here). What is it about cream linen that you wanted to change?
First, thanks so much for the quick, informative response!
Second, I was just looking for something a bit more formal, or “smarter”, as you like to put it…do you have any specific fabric recommendations for the smarter, cream trouser? For example, that article you linked mentions as wool gabardine…are there any other specific recommendations you can offer?
Thanks again…you’ve already been incredibly helpful!
No worries. Wool gabardine is beautiful, though very smart. I haven’t tried any for a while, so can’t really make any specific recommendations I’m afraid.
But that’s what I would look to for a cool, smart cream trouser
Looking back through this comment section, I see that you, as well as others, have mentioned that Huddersfield Fresco trousers, while relatively “light and airy”, are also quite “rough and stiff”….would you still say that the most current version of their Fresco trousers, the Minnis III at 8/9oz, are “rough and stiff” or have they softened up a bit? And would you still get these Minnis III Fresco’s lined to the knee, or would you consider unlined?
The new versions are certainly softer than the older, heavier versions. But I’d still say Crispaire, for example, is softer. You do give up a little bit of the sharpness to get that softness in the feel though
I’d have them half lined
Thank you so much for your informed and quick response!!
Would you also do the Crispaire half-lined?
No worries. Yes
As for pairing and wearing shirts with linen trousers (no jacket), of course there are no “hard” rules, but it IS acceptable to wear linen shirts with linen trousers, correct?
And thanks again for all your timely and insightful responses!
Yes, generally that will look OK. Particularly given the shirt is likely to be a lot lighter in weight than the trousers, and so have a different texture as it’s worn and wrinkles
Dear Simon,
Thanks for the article, or rather, articles. I have gone through most of them in just a few days since they are so interesting to read and so well written. However, I have yet been able to come up with a strategy for my summer trousers, particularly in color and texture. I have chinos in three colors: navy, khaki, and cream; grey, cream, indigo, and blue jeans. I also have a pair of mid grey trousers and navy in wool (which is hard to wear as you point out in other articles). What pieces should I have next? In terms of color, texture and fabrics. Thank you.
Well, it’s hard to give precise advice as I don’t know your style or lifestyle, but perhaps linen? That seems to be an obvious gap
Do you have any experience with Airesco from H&S? How does it compare with Crispaire?
No I don’t David, sorry
What are your thoughts on wool/silk/linen mixes for trousers? I’ve got some beige trousers in a Loro Piano summertime wool (70%) silk (15%), linen (15%). Not so rough as pure high twist wool but seems to hold its shape as well and seems wrinkle resistant?
I haven’t tried that cloth, but it sounds like a good example of how the mix can work in trousers – when it’s mostly wool.
Usually the mix is more even, and with the silk and linen in there, usually in a light weight, it’s not great for trousers.
I got a look at the Airesco book yesterday. Imagine the high-twist equivalent of flannel or tweed. It has a matte finish and is more appropriate for casual garments whereas Crispaire is what you’d want for a business suit.
It looks really cool (no pun intended) and I’m wishing I’d known about Airesco before I commissioned a pair of casual odd trousers earlier this year; Airesco is better for that purpose than Crispaire. (Being smarter, Crispaire runs a greater risk of looking like orphaned suit trousers).
Thank you
Simon, what’s your thought on mohair for suits in the summer?
It can be very functional, keeping a nice crease and being lightweight. The issue is sheen, and a crispy feeling, which some like and others don’t. Personally I’m not that much of a fan – even in the tux I have in a mix of it with wool
A question to Simon and fellow readers.
I am often told by tailoring enthusiasts that anything north of 320 grams in fabric weight is too hot for hot climate
Yet I often see those same enthusiasts who also appreciate jeans refusing to wear anything south of 400 grams when it comes to jeans
Am I missing something here? And let’s compare a cotton tailoring trouser to jeans here. Wouldn’t tailoring be actually cooler in the same weight given it’s usually not hugging the body??
Thank you
Your logic is good Nick – if anything, denim is a relatively coarse cotton, in a tight twill, so those are reasons for it to be hotter still.
I imagine for those enthusiasts, the point is that if denim gets too light, it’s start to lose its character – it starts to lose some of the qualities that make it nice denim. So if you can’t wear it in the heat, just don’t wear denim, because it’s not the same.
You see the same with tailoring fabrics. If linen gets too light, for example, it creases up rather than nicely rumpling. It looks like a crisp packet.
And if you make flannel too light, usually by using worsted yarn, it too loses much of the reason flannel looks nice.
No mention of light weight gaberdines. I have a couple of summer suits in these fabrics and they are cool and keep their shape.
True John, I should have mentioned them (I assume you mean wool gabardine, not cotton).
I don’t tend to wear gabardines because they’re so much smarter than what I normally wear – but I still should have included them. They’re also a little less cool than these options, really. A wool gaberdine is very lightweight, but it’s still a closely woven wool twill, without the cool surface of linen or the breathability of a high-twist.
I live in the North East of the US and don’t really subscribe to the dress down culture but you can’t look like a caricature from the 1920’s. So the challenge becomes to look reasonably elegant but still fit in. I’ve found light khaki colored gaberdine pants with 2″ cuff a reasonable substitute for chinos etc. Plus the fact that the only drill pants you can buy off the peg these days are of the current hideous skinny tube style with the leg length either what is called, over here, the flood pant (i.e. above ankles) or at the other extreme elephant ankles. How long before some drape comes back to you think? Classic men’s look had a tremendous revival in the 80’s/90’s and early 00’s. Current men’s styles are beginning to emulate the 1970’s (before your time) for ugliness.
Sounds nice John.
I’m hopeful wider trousers are slowly coming back. It’s taking a while, but then the mainstream already does.
If for nothing else, there is a special place in heaven for Simon just for the attention (and patience) he answers his readers questions. And the good thing is, specially in the older posts, somebody always has already questioned what I was about to ask Simon. Anyway, I think I already commented something similar to that, after spending hours reading the comment section. Keep up the good work, Simon.
Thank you
Simon!
For our office chinos are too casual and blazer too formal and so rather implied dress code for men is light colour shirt and dark wool trousers like grey or navy with black or brown shoes.
1)Looking at your apprehension for tropical wool trousers, do you find this outfit elegant and if not, what would you suggest could be an alternative in summer?
2)Would tailored cotton trousers(not ready to wear chinos) look more appropriate than worsted if no blazer is being worn?
1) I think that office outfit sounds fine, and tropical wool would fit with it OK. Perhaps try a shirt-jacket or sweater-jacket over the top instead of a formal blazer? Or a short-sleeved cardigan like our Finest Cardigan model. Those things would keep the outfit a little more elegant and tidy, without wearing a jacket
2) Either would be good, the worsted just a little smarter
I have been apprehensive about tailored cotton trousers after reading your article about ‘it looking a bit old manish’.
Was your view only in respect to casual chinos?
No, I think they still carry that risk. But it’s less of a risk without a jacket, and it depends a lot on what else you wear them with. Perhaps avoid other more traditional things with them, for example.
Simon!
1) Would a tropical wool trouser which is made up of 70% wool and 30% polyester be fine for summer as odd trouser. Would it drape that nicely?
2) I think I might be repeating this question but just want to make sure that whether pale blue chambray work with charcoal grey wool odd trouser and black oxford or would it look off because chambray is quite informal?
1) I don’t know to be honest, I’ve never had anything with that much polyester in it. It might drape OK, but I’d worry about that much synthetic in there. It’s not a great sign as regards quality
2) It would probably be too casual. Those colours might be OK with a more casual shoe (eg black suede loafer) but I think it would struggle with an oxford
Which runs coolest (broadly speaking)?
12 oz linen plain
9 oz linen twill
7 oz high-twist wool
The 12oz will probably be the warmest, but it’s also a little personal – for example, linen is nice in heat because it’s cool to the touch, where wool isn’t. But high-twists let more air through when there’s a breeze etc.
Why do flowing trousers without body exist for women but so rarely for men?
I’m not sure – perhaps because the look could seem a little effeminate, either because of the flighty nature of the material, or simply because that style of trouser is associated with women’s fashion?
Hi, Simon! I found a summer cotton trouser by PT Torino I was actually sure was wool. It essentially has the elegance and fineness of wool with hopefully the heat performance of fine cotton. That last issue could be it’s downfall though and I consider returning them for it – they’re visibly transparent. Not horribly so, but certainly visibly. Would this undermine them as a smart, office trouser? Photo ‘evidence’ attached.
I think so probably, yes. Fine maybe for the summer and casually, but not so great for the office. Particularly if it’s something you’re conscious of
What is your opinion on very heavy linen, Simon?
There is a small artisan tailor in my area that makes beautiful linen trousers. Yet, I have been hesitant to get one as they are very heavy (21oz).
Drape and feel is perfect, but I’m in doubt about their breathability… Do you think they can still work as summer trousers?
Thank you!
They would probably be stunning Tom, but they’d certainly be warmer.
I’d be vary about them for summer trousers, but it does also depend on how hot you get and where you live. Eg see comments on my heavy linen jacket here
Hi Simon, have you tried wool and cotton mix cloth for the trousers? Such as this https://drapersitaly.it/ug-en/collection/12002/
If so, would you recommend it for smart casual trousers?
Many thanks,
Jack
No I never have actually Jack, but I’ll try and have a look next time I see the bunch. I can see the wool element having some advantages
Thanks, Simon.
I am considering commissioning odd trousers in that cloth (they call it taupe), and I was wondering which jacket colours you think I should avoid wearing?
Avoid wearing with it? I’d say most really paler colours, though a textured or patterned oatmeal might be OK with a white shirt. Otherwise just greys that could be too close in colour
Simon, I just had my final fitting for my jacket with Eric Jensen. The jacket is a blue linen. I also commissioned three trousers. I have worn them for a while. They are linen tobacco, cotton grey and cotton sand.
I wear scrubs to work so my trousers are not worn for work. Eric likes his trousers high waisted, one reverse pleat, side adjusters. I think this style works for my disproportionately short legs as well. I have finally decided to add a trouser in the green family. Do you have a preference of the cloth that would look best per Eric Jensen’s style. I live in (usually) sunny California.
I also commissioned a jacket and navy trousers from Steven Hitchcock. I am having the final fitting in May. I will give you a review of my two experiences if you wish…
Always nice to hear Brian, yes.
On the green trousers, I don’t think my choice would depend on the trouser style so much as what you were going to wear it with – is it with the blue linen, and is it blue, rather than a dark navy?
Simon, You could see a picture on Eric Jensen’s recent instagram photo as the Azzurro Irish Linen final fitting post. I would say it is a medium blue jacket. I would probably wear the “green” trousers casually as well with button-down, knitwear, etc.
Thanks. I think a dark olive would be a good choice, it usually is, though if you’re not wearing it with a jacket then it is easier to use a slightly stronger colour
Hello Simon, do you think 14oz fresco is too heavy for a summer trouser? My instincts tell me such trousers would have better durability and drape than a lighter pair. Thanks.
They would, you’re right. It depends on how hot the weather will be – in India or Italy I’d worry, in the UK it would be fine. Equally, depends how much you’re outside and how much inside in A/C
Personally I’d for something lighter, more like 10/11
I’ve tried 11 oz Ecru line pants and I was not impressed with them. Even in hot weather they didn’t keep me much cooler, they lost their shape very quickly and look awful. I don’t think I’ll bother with them again unless it’s a cotton/linen blend. I found cotton gabardine to be more clean looking and keeps me just as cool as linen without the hassle. And I do love tropical wool.
How would you rate polyester and viscose mix trousers?
Not highly, avoid them
When it comes to cotton trousers then there is a wide range in it starting from tailored to rubato to incotex and armoury workwear each being different but still being cotton and you have mentioned a lot of times that you wouldn’t wear knitted t shirts or polo with incotex chinos or armoury but certainly rubato chinos. Do the same also applies to linen with knitted polos or t shirts not looking great with certain types of it or is linen easier to go with?
It’s easier in that respect
Hi Simon, I recently commissioned a linen jacket in cold olive but am having a difficult time choosing which trousers I should go for in terms of colour and material. I understand from reading PS that clothe for summer trousers mainly come down to two options, high twist and linen, which has left me with only one choice since I would like to avoid wearing both jackets and trousers in linen. Plus, most of my casual summer overshirts and unstructured jackets are linen. I considered cotton but I remember you often mentioned it’s not the best material to wear with a jacket. It would be great if you could share your thoughts on which colour and material of trousers you would go for if you were in my shoes.
I’m not sure if this would help but below is the list of summer jackets and trousers I currently have.
• Dark brown wool/silk/linen jacket
• Mid brown with a dark green overcheck linen jacket
• Dark brown linen trousers
• Stone linen trousers
• Mid-grey high-twist trousers
Many thanks,
Jack
Well hopefully the mid-grey high twist should work. And I wouldn’t discount linen if it feels like a different look to the jacket – perhaps if the trousers are a sharp Irish linen and the jacket is softer?
And try cotton and see what you think. It’s a lot easier in summer, I just find it hard to get the right cotton. Wear the jacket to a few shops and try it out with some beige cottons. You want the trouser to feel smart enough for the jacket
Thank you, Simon, as always for your helpful response.
Do you think the cloth below looks stone or cold beige?I am in the middle of choosing a cloth for the cotton trousers and would like to ask for your opinion as well.
Hmm, I’d say somewhere in between, but probably more of a light beige
Ah right. I am trying to find the shade which you usually define as ‘cold and muted’ beige without too much yellow in it, would you say I am on the right track?
Yes I would
Great, thanks, Simon.