L’Impermeabile gilet, at John Simons
£435
This lightly waxed gilet, particularly in the pale beige colour, is reminiscent of the Eddie Bauer style that has become popular in recent years. It’s 100% cotton on the outside though, which means it will age a little quicker and perhaps more elegantly.
John Simons offers a navy too, but the beige is surprisingly versatile, suiting jeans and flannels equally. It’s not a dressy piece, more workwear than luxury, but makes a great weekend option.
The Real McCoy’s country socks
£30
The biggest problem with this guide every year is that by the time everyone has received their stock, some of the best pieces from the beginning of the Autumn have sold out. This is the case with these new socks from The Real McCoy’s, but apparently they are more coming.
The socks are pleasingly thick and slubby, pure cotton yet strong. The only downside to not using synthetics in the fibre mix (as most brands do) is that they aren’t as good when or if they get damp. But apart from an old AnonymousIsm pair that I’ve yet to find again, these are my favourite Ivy-style socks.
$165
I never really joined the rugby shirt bandwagon, but in retrospect I think it was because they were often shown with tailoring, as some kind of sporty high/low look. On their own, a great rugby shirt suits me well: it has a collar, it’s flattering, classic in a plain colour, and you can wear the crap out of it at the weekend with the kids.
I tried a Real McCoy’s one, which was an amazing weight but I didn’t like the hoop design. I’ve yet to get hold of a Barbarian one as they don’t ship outside North America. But I found this one in J Press and it’s very good for the price - not quite as heavy as the others, but lovely to wear, and with the proper collar, rubber buttons and so on. I bought size small, in navy.
£399
I’m profiling RM Williams soon, spurred by the idea of exploring a traditional menswear manufacturer in a different country and culture. And so ahead of that I tried the whole range of boots - and I was pleasantly surprised by the classic Craftsman style. I didn’t think I’d like a square-toed boot, but the shape is subtle and actually appealed to me more than the rounder toes.
Of course this is not a make on the level of most brands we cover (plastic toe/heel puffs, stitching fineness etc), but it’s not designed to be - it’s designed to be durable, and from those I know that wear them, it seems to fulfil that objective.
Colhay’s painter’s shawl cardigan
£595
*Update: I just heard that the Colhay's shawls arrived this afternoon, so they are available on their site now*
This season Colhay’s have a finer shawl cardigan, which is more a piece you’d layer under a coat or even a roomy jacket. It’s a four-ply cashmere, densely knitted as all their Scottish pieces, and in a plain stitch rather than the normal rib.
The thing most worth highlighting, however, is the little design details - something I haven’t talked about so much in the past in reference to Colhay’s. The wider placket, for example, which gives the cardigan a slightly collegiate feel, and the side-entry pockets that are cleaner that patches on a design like this, and stay nice and flush with the body.
The majority of the stock is arriving in a couple of weeks, by the way, rather than being sold out already.
Aimé Leon Dore shaker-stitch cardigan
£325
This is the first piece I’ve bought from ALD, and it pretty much met my expectations. On the one hand, the design is perfect - the shaker stitch gives the knit bulk; the trim is cream rather than white; the depth of the opening is great, as is the fit through the body. It’s well thought-out.
But it’s a straightforward make, in China, and is 6% nylon and 1% elastane (despite the website saying it’s 100% cotton). There’s nothing necessarily wrong with being China-made and synthetics can help with cottons in particular. But it’s not as nice as, say, an A&S cotton knit and feels like it should be a chunk cheaper.
$1,298
It’s often the case that if you want a traditional style of coat, you’re more likely to find it at Ralph Lauren that at some of the heritage makers, such as Burberry or Aquascutum. With trench coats this has certainly been true, given how short others have become.
The only problem is that the standard trench Polo offers was made in a stretch cotton, which felt odd. Fortunately they’ve now introduced one without stretch - which I tried in New York recently. It’s only available currently on the US site, but I was told it would be elsewhere too. It’s Polo rather than Purple Label, which is reflected in the price and materials, but the cut is perfect.
Drake’s brushed lavender shetland
£195
There’s no shortage of shetland sweaters out there, but I highlight this one for a couple of reasons. First, it’s a lovely shade of purple, with little wisps of yellow and pale blue in there. And second, it’s brushed to a fluffy texture, which I think readers who find shetlands a little scratchy will prefer. Not as thick as a Shaggy Dog, but just as soft.
I like bright knits like this as a layer under a coat - as shown here - and this lavender would be great under a navy. But I also think that if you’re the sort of person that wears a sweater around the shoulders, a bright colour can look great. A pop of colour not unlike a scarf or beanie.
For rugby shirts I can recommend the brand Black & Blue 1871 (https://www.blackandblue1871.com/black-and-blue-1871-rugby-shirts/). They have a classic series without club logos and the quality is very nice. As for the vest, my recommendation would be the deep powder vest by Holubar, looks better imo, also from cotton, and somewhat less expensive.
Trench coats, I don’t know, they look very unfashionable to me. I think a duster coat coat in a wider cut fits current silhouettes much better.
Thank you Felix. How heavy are the rugby shirts? Most I’ve found aren’t really a traditional weight.
Thank you too on Holubar. I’ve seen them before and like the fact it’s a cotton outer, though I do like the waxed element on the Impermeabile, it means it ages in a nice way. Also obviously a different style – more a modern gilet, less that older Bauer look.
I know what you mean about trench coats, and a single-breasted, simpler style is definitely more practical. One thing that is nice about a trench is that it’s an easy and palpably practical way to add some style and strut to an outfit. If it looks easy on the wearer, and not fussy, then it’s actually quite a striking piece but easy to get away with because of the practicality and heritage.
I wouldn’t know the exact weight, but definitely “heavy” (like a dense, somewhat stiff sweatshirt, not like a thick t-shirt, if that helps). Also a very solid, reinforced construction. Very good for any kind of abuse from carrying around/playing with small children etc.
“If it looks easy on the wearer, and not fussy” – that’s what I mean. With a lightly oversized duster coat it’s much harder to look fussy even if the rest of the outfit is on the classic side. I can see a beige trenchcoat would (maybe) look cool with light jeans and beaten up sneakers, but with decent trousers etc. it quickly goes into Inspector Clouseau territory, at least for me.
Btw, since RM Williams is now LVMH and they have played their usual BS of increasing prices and introducing unnecessary extra product categories, maybe you could also provide some alternatives like Botte Gardiane etc.
Thanks Felix.
With the trench I find it’s a lot about how you wear it, as well as what you wear it with (as you rightly point out). I found this watching people try on the PS trench coat at the various pop-ups. Men tend to button them too much, rather than just belt them quickly and simply. There is perhaps another article in this, or indeed series.
RM Williams have certainly increased their prices recently, although I find it interesting how many people I know swear by them in terms of comfort and longevity, which is why I thought it was worth covering them.
La Botte Gardiane I’ve only tried once or twice in the past, although their classic tall boot I see more as a western-boot alternative – an interesting French-flavoured alternative to this.
LVMH sold RMW back into private Australian ownership back in 2020.
Saved the fate of Church’s (Prada)…Berluti…etc.
Let us pray Edward Green does not succumb.
Those Black and Blues look great; is the collar a bit of a spread? It appears that way.
The website says that the one that interests me, the Mohicans 1971, is 380 gms, heavy enough for most.
Thanks Gary, it looks like a nice cotton too. At £110, it’s of course pretty much the same price as the J Press one at normal exchange rates.
Yes, and it fades nicely. I am btw usually not a fan of vintage logos but some of those actually look quite cool too.
I am just a little annoyed that they all have an “1871” embroidery at the back of the neck and that there is always a narrow black and blue grosgrain ribbon at the inside of the collar. This is overall very subtle though and otherwise it’s the best classic rugby shirt I could find.
Yes, that is annoying, I didn’t realise that. For how I find I like to wear them, I wouldn’t want anything at all on the outside.
It might have been worth emphasising that I like the dark navy specifically because it is so plain – it does a similar job to a navy Cashmere Rugby, for example, but more hard wearing and clearly sporty.
Well, it’s very easy to ask a tailor to put a little dark navy cotton patch over it (it’s small) – or, if you’re me, to use a black marker to make it invisible 🙂
As for the grosgrain ribbon, with the dark navy (which I have) it doesn’t stick out. I just think it looks off on clearly different colorways.
Ha! Yeah, perhaps a tactical roll in some mud or little tear as well.
There are any number of suppliers of real rugby shirts in the UK. The J Press item here is a pure copy (collar, rubber buttons etc), and the real ones are less than half the price quoted here. So why bother?
I have owned a pair of Craftsman comfort RM’s for about 15 years. Sturdy and comfortable. I wouldn’t refer to RMW as a “menswear brand” though, as their ranges outside footwear are quite limited, and all fit in with the “outback” heritage of the brand.
Hi Peter,
Most suppliers today aren’t at the same traditional quality, I find. Also remember that more readers are in the US than the UK. If you could mention the suppliers in the UK you’re thinking of that would be great.
Completely agree on the rest of the RM collection.
Certainly. These are businesses that supply rugby shirts to rugby players, rather than as “fashion”. Think Ragingbull (Phil Vickery), Cotton Traders (Fran Cotton), Classicrugbyshirts, Rugbystore. These are “old school” and I think the J Press item is just a copy of them.
Thanks Peter. I have tried some of those and the quality certainly isn’t the same – specifically the RagingBull ones and Cotton Traders. Also knowing more about the supply side from a brand perspective now, you can’t really make the same quality for that kind of price. That doesn’t mean they’re not great, just not the kind of materials PS readers will be used to from other things we cover at the top end of the market, such as heavyweight Japanese T-shirts etc. And for me that’s the pleasure of wearing them.
I agree that J Press isn’t a rugby company, but as with many things (including some Ivy, Press-like pieces that are now made by Japanese brands) the ‘copies’ sometimes keep the heritage better and the quality
Fair points Simon, but my view is that a rugby shirt has got to be sufficiently well made to withstand the rigours of the game. However well made, I doubt the Press version would survive for long.
Thanks Peter. I think a heavier weight (in a better cotton, woven more densely) would actually hold up just as well and feel better (soften and stay strong) over time. This is why the traditional shirts were made that way. But of course I haven’t tried playing in one!
As a side note on withstanding the rigours of the game, I assume most professional shirts are entirely synthetic.
For me the distinction is clear. Some companies make shirts that are specifically intended to be worn whilst playing rugby(Canterbury, RagingBull etc), whilst others make shirts which look like rugby shirts but are fashion items.
I don’t think that’s really accurate Jason. Yes, the former are intended for play, but then so are pure synthetics that are nothing but stretch – not a piece any of us would want to wear outside of high-intensity sport.
The latter are old-fashioned types of sportswear – perhaps not quite so appropriate today, but built for durability rather than breathability, for example. It’s these pieces that are really nice to wear for active life but not high-intensity sport, like the aforementioned playing in the park etc.
The J Press website estimates duties and taxes (VAT) for UK delivery at a whopping £88, giving a total of £245. Then there’s the shipping costs to add on too so the total cost will be close to £300!
As noted Gary, there are just as many (in fact slightly more) US readers of PS than there are UK ones. I’m not endorsing buying one in from the US necessarily, especially given the current exchange rate. But US readers are usually underserved with these pieces, that inevitably focus more on UK availability.
Ralph Lauren and Gant sell heavy rugby shirts and some have the logo hidden. They should be readily available in the US. My Gant rugby shirts are still going strong after 12 years regular wear. Whether those brands are now worth the money is another matter but they are often discounted substantially in the winter sales.
Thanks Gary. I haven’t been impressed by what I’ve seen of the RL ones, but I haven’t tried Gant.
Even the smaller brands provide web based merchandise for global shipping. As a US reader I enjoy coverage of the UK/Eu shops. I have purchased from North Sea Clothing, Merchant Fox, Clutch, Natalino, Haulier, Bleu de Chauffe as a direct result of PS.
If I may add on the more affordable side, I was taken aback by the amazing weight, thickness, and rigidity of a Cos rugby in nice light-blue navy that a friend got recently. Nice straight cut, shorter in the body. For 70€ I just said wow and plan to go and see how it fits on me.
The Colhays cardigan, the socks and the shetland are the ones that interest me the most. Particularly the shetland, since most of my knitwear pieces are neutral colors. But I think it the color pop in the post you linked there (the yellow shetland) is great, particularly with dark colors! Which color do you consider more versatile, yellow or purple?
Also Simon, do you still own the Liverano purple jacket? If you do, it would be lovely to see how you like to style it! The color is lovely and looks close to the shetland in the pictures.
I think both yellow and purple are great, and fairly easy to wear. The yellow might stand out a little more, but less so with denim – I’d wear it most with a mid-blue wash jean. The purple might be better with navy
Thank you for the advice Simon! Also, have you tried anything in the new Riviera colour from Rubato? If so, how is it in person? In the pictures looks closer to yellow (reminds me of egg yolk), and far from their ecru, which I have. I was considering it as an option for a color pop with smart chinos and flannels, do you think it is intense enough for that?
The pictures look great and I think it is a great addition to the colour palette.
I have, I’ve tried the V-neck and I do like it – it’s definitely not close to ecru, it is a yellow. But it’s a more muted yellow than you’d get from a Ralph Lauren or see normally in a shetland, if you know what I mean.
I think it’s certainly intense enough for that look, yes. It’s nice with the faded green of fatigues too.
I can recommend the purple Shetland from William Crabtree. It’s quite a similar shade (as far as I can tell from the photograph) ad is slightly cheaper. It has a cable pattern, which may or may not appeal and, I think a slightly higher collar, which I like.
My knitwear is almost exclusively navy, grey, brown and a little green, but I was seduced by the Crabtree Shetland in this shade and I absolutely love it. Part of that may be because it is a little novel for me and adds a more strongly coloured option for occasions when I feel like wearing a little more colour.It looks quite good with denim and, as you say, Simon, good with navy.
Thanks RT. I’d prefer without the cable, but the higher collar would certainly be good. Interested to know if it is as brushed too, as I know some readers don’t like the scratchiness of a lot of shetlands.
It’s not brushed, as far as I can tell, at least not as much as the Drakes one, but is still quite soft. No doubt James would be able to provide more accurate information. I’d probably prefer it without the cable too, but it wasn’t really a major issue for me, compared to the desire for a higher collar and the price. At £145 I thought it was good value and £50 cheaper than the one from Drakes. Having said that, I notice that Drakes are also offering theirs in black. I haven’t seen anyone else offering a black one, so I’ll be quite happy to pay the £195 for it.
Thanks RT
Bosie.Co sells a Shetland in Midnight Black by Harley of Scotland. The price is a very reasonable £99 compared to Drake’s £195. It is seamless, has a traditional saddle shoulder and is brushable, a service that Bosie offers for a small extra charge.
Thanks for the suggestion, Gary. Much appreciated. I’ll check it out. Do you know what the collar is like? I have found the ones from Bosie/Harley to be a little low for me, in the past, but I’ve only ever tried one or two.
Hi RT, thank you for the recommendation. I will consider it, for sure. I also prefer without the cable pattern, but it is not a dealbreaker for me!
Cheers Jose. I’ve found the Shetlands from William Crabtree to be good value and they suit me well. They have quite a number of different colours without the cable knit – in fact, I’m wearing a grey one today – and they’re even cheaper. James Priestley, who runs Crabtree, is extremely helpful too.
My experience with Polo is that the quality is very low. If it had been $129 instead of $1,298 perhaps I´d buy it.
The Polo quality certainly isn’t the best, and the materials could be better. The thing worth highlighting here is how perfect the design is – from that tall collar stand to the length and belt position on the natural waist. It’s rare you see it done that well, and it’s what Ralph Lauren should be particularly valued for, to my mind.
Did you consider Grenfell’s Windsor trench? It’s still made in London and is available in gabardine and Grenfell cloth. At £775, it’s a bargain compared to the Polo and would be top of my list if I need a trench coat.
Yes, it is a nice piece. I think Grenfell suffer from not having the retail, so it’s hard to try things in person – and it makes a big difference with outerwear like that
Grenfell needs to improve its customer service and size guides. There are few stockists where you can try on in person. My Grenfell golf jacket (bought from Cordings), is a 46 rather than my usual 44. My chest measures 42 inches but I generally need 44s due to broad shoulders. The quality is very good for the money so it’s worth the effort to find the right size.
The Private White VC website suggests that the London store in Duke Street has closed. Can you confirm that? It could affect sales of the PS collaborations. I’m very fussy about fit and always try on garments before buying.
Yes, it’s been closed since Covid Gary.
Private White sold their stock in the shop, not ours, so it doesn’t affect us that much.
I know it’s easier to try things on though, which is why we do the pop-up shops and do free returns and exchanges
I had a look on RL website and there is also similar coat in Purple Label line that probably has better quality, also ~3x the price.
Simon can I ask if you own, have covered or have any thoughts on lightweight, in appearance not necessarily in weight, coats, made from worsted wool or some blends. I mean designs that usually come with trench coats, dusters, rain coats and the like where traditional materials are cotton and synthetics.
Yes there are two from Purple Label in the UK, but both are shorter I think and both are in much more luxe materials – a silk and quite a silky cotton gabardine. Both are what you often get from Purple Label but aren’t really what I’d want from a style like this.
I think wools can work well, but you generally want to avoid them looking slick like this.
Simon how do you find the heavier shawl collar from colhays ? I cant decide between wool and cashmere and im also not sure about the fit..
I love them, and have a couple. As a traditional shawl cardigan it’s perfect. If in doubt I’d go a little larger in fit – it should be slouchy, not a close fit. And whether you have cashmere is largely a question of budget I think. Cashmere is beautiful but there’s a lot of it in there…
I own and love the Colhays painter cardigan, so I’m glad to see it highlighted here. Interesting that you mention layering it under a jacket—I’d thought about that but worried that the shawl collar would look incoherent under tailoring. And, just like you’ve noted elsewhere that you don’t like wearing a collared shirt under a collared knit, I worry that it might look odd wearing a shawl collar (the knitwear-equivalent of lapels) under the lapels of a jacket. Seems to me the shawl cardigan works better on its own, while non-shawl cardigans are better for layering.
I know what you mean, but I find a shawl collar doesn’t really have that effect – under a jacket it almost looks more like a scarf than anything else.
It would certainly be bulky under a jacket – hence the ‘even’ in the text. It would need to be roomy and even then would be a slightly unusual style.
I’ll give it a whirl someday. The painter cardigan is great, though. Do you own the ecru colorway? I chose that one too and am seriously considering the dark brown as well. I like the original Colhays shawl cardigan, but it always seemed too bulky and slouchy for the office. The painter cardigan is a better tailored-jacket alternative, while still providing loads of warmth and comfort.
Yes, many of those shawls feel better around the house, or walking out locally.
I don’t own any yet actually, just tried them. But have my name down for an ecru when they come back in.
Barbarian does ship outside NA: https://barbarian.eu/
Now you tell me. Ah well, thank you V, for next time
Hi,
The british retailer All Blues Co do stock rugby sweaters by Barbarian.
Fantastic, thanks Carl
You should try to get your hands on a Barbarian. They are the genuine article, meant for playing actual rugby on an actual field, not a homage made by a designer with an excellent eye for historical associations and a keen business sense for romanticizing them, and therefore suffering some loss of fidelity.
Thanks Rodrigue, I will. Though do you mean anything specific when you say there’s a loss of fidelity, or are you just making generalisations?
Personally I actually think J Press are pretty poor at romanticising these things, certainly compared to someone like Ralph Lauren
I’m generalizing, of course. I was thinking of a blue and white stripe Polo rugby shirt I wore in high school. I loved it, but it wasn’t quite up to Barbarian’s quality, and it was a bit off in some of the details, for entirely fashion-driven reasons. As a rule, I think it’s hard to go wrong by seeking out the original that the designers are referencing (or faithful reproductions).
I’d put J. Press into the category of things that Ralph Lauren references, although I don’t own any of their stuff.
Thanks Rodrigue.
And I agree, that’s often a good idea, though there are certainly exceptions – eg Burberry and Aquascutum haven’t offered trench coats in the RL style here for a good while, and The Real McCoy’s and similar brands often make qualities of traditional pieces that aren’t made any more.
Simon, I think Burberry have a perennial full length, traditional fit, raglan sleeved trench coat they carry, no? How is this RL one different in design?
It’s not a perennial, they’ve only brought it back recently. I’ll have to try it again and check the design details, but I remember liking the RL version more – they tend to keep with more traditional aspects like a bigger fit through the bottom half
thanks, follow up question. how do you style that trench without looking like inspector gadget or humphrey boggart? i know trench with sweatshirt is one way, but to me it feels kinda done.
I don’t think anyone’s really going to look at you wearing a sweatshirt with that and think it’s ‘done’, Zo. It would look good.
But, in general I’d say the key is how you wear it, rather than what you wear it with. Belt it casually, maybe leave the front open a little bit (unless it’s actually poring down). Don’t button all the buttons. Or maybe even button just the top one or two. We talked about this on the post about the PS Trench here.
More casual things then also avoid that risk – jeans, maybe with boots; chinos, but maybe with tennis shoes; a shawl cardigan rather than a jacket and tie
Ooh shawl cardigan, didn’t think of that, good idea will give it a go. Thank you Simon
I must say I still have my khaki gabardine Burberry from the early 1990’s & it’s a perfect trench with a zip in wool liner; they don’t seem to have those old school styles anymore but seem to be looking to a younger fashion trend & more standard. But if I needed another trench I’d go for the PS one or Grenfell – I have their Shooter & it’s well made & utilitarian. But their customer service seems unresponsive to enquiries & limited outlet access.
Looking forward to the RMW Craftsman review soon, interested to see your thoughts – are you reviewing the leather or rubber soled ones? The uppers are slightly different.
Here in Australia, RMs are so commonly worn by men of all ages that there is a certain element of wearing them to just feel comfortable blending in. I’m 38 and associate the old leather sole style with my grandads generation of farmers who highly polished them regularly for wearing to nice occasions, but there’s also the more daily beater user who completely neglects them and have a scratched up look. The ‘comfort’ rubber sole version is actually such an easy thing to throw on for anything, like going to the supermarket or walking to the playground with kids! Haha, sorry I could write an essay on the topic. Very different quality to my pair of EG Galways though!
Indeed.
The rubber soled, just because I wanted to try the Comfort version. I don’t really like the rubber sole, but that was the only option with the Comfort padding inside.
Hi Simon,
Not the most exciting run down this year. I must say reather uninspiring. I wonder if this is a refoection of the market offering in general or if its down to the choices specifically?
I note there are a couple of pieces where you have stated ‘its not as nice as’ an alterntive which makes me wonder why the garment has made the list?
There might certainly be something in the market as a whole, Hamish, as brands have been doing fewer new products in the past year as they’ve had to cope financially with the effects of Covid.
But the bigger reasons is probably the choices, as I’ve used this edition more than normal to discuss some brands that it’s not worth covering in full articles or reviews, – but which I still think it’s worth valuing and discussing for what they do offer. The ALD cardigan might not have the same quality as A&S, for example, but A&S is just not going to do that style of cardigan.
It’s also a nice opportunity to broaden the kinds of brands we cover, an example there being RM Williams. It’s not the level of make we normally look at, but there are still a couple of great styles, and readers are always asking for lower-quality examples to be mixed in with the more luxurious pieces.
Those two last paras go to your point about ‘not as nice as’ too.
Hmmm, I think we ask for more affordable pieces rather than lower quality… though that may be the consequence of affordability. An unusually snobbish choice of wording
Thanks Jim, but those two are pretty much always in sync with the kind of brands we cover. Unless you’re talking about a big designer brand, where the cost base is very different, going down in price from the small craft-based companies we usually focus on will always mean lower quality. Not necessarily a quality drop you care about, and often an exponential drop in price, but still it will nearly always be there
Columbiaknit makes nice rugby shirts, in a wide variety of colors, for less. Personally I think going with a striped one is better, and more associated with rugby. If I were to get a solid one, I’d just go with a long-sleeved polo. Though I don’t really like wearing my rugby shirts under a tailored jacket.
I recently picked up a trench coat (from Coherence), with all of the bells and whistles: double breasted, belted, flaps, etc. I was afraid of it looking like a costume (the same reason why I have never cottoned on to military-type jackets like the M65) but I like it so much I don’t care! Agree that these are just better in plain cotton gabardine, no stretch. It just feels, and drapes better. I think going a bit looser is better than tighter with these anyway so stretch fabrics aren’t needed.
Thanks Craig. Perhaps I’m just after something more subtle with the rugby – I almost don’t want it to look like a rugby shirt, more like a collared sweatshirt almost.
That Coherence piece is beautiful. I saw someone wear it to the New York pop-up recently and it looked so good.
Coherence makes few trench coats. Is the one you are both praising Al coat inspired by Albert Camus? I’m in search of a classic trench coat and I’m considering Coherence Al and something from Grenfell. Do you have any thought on Grenfell trench coats, please?
Simon,
Rugby shirts are a major part of my weekend uniform for exactly the reasons you laid out (collared, flattering, robust). My favorites are Columbia Knit from the Pacific Northwest . Good colors, and 8-10 oz with the rubber buttons. They even do a “fun” rugby shirt where they take scrap cuttings and make them up to reduce waste
http://usa-wear.com/ostore/index.php?route=product/category&path=64_59
Wow, would I have known the vintage value of my old, battered, 100% cotton heavy rugby shirt, I would have certainly kept it. It withstood 5+ years of training and playing every week.
The fades by now would be amazing!
Community Clothing have a heavy rugby shirt in block colours. A real tradition rugby shirt. As you say,most modern shirts are sleek and synthetic
https://barbarian.eu/. Do ship to the UK but postage is expensive.
I wear my rugby shirts for grandad duties at the weekend, usually with a cardigan jeans. Much smarter when tucked in.
Thanks Peter – a reader noted above on Barbarian.
https://communityclothing.co.uk/collections/mens-jersey/products/mens-rugby-shirt-navy?variant=33059782393910
A link for the CC.
Cheers
Will jump in on the socks predicament – very happy with my Ivy Ellis pairs, would recommend.
Got the J. Press rugby in orange and purple (my school colors) in a large and it really fits a little big, but not excessively so. They seem to be a good make even after several washes. Also they have the traditional dropped shoulders.
I know you didn’t like the colour hoops, but I’ve got two of the Real McCoy’s rugby shirts and they really are much better quality than anything else I’ve had. Drakes are doing a nice one this season as well (https://www.drakes.com/collections/shirts/products/navy-olive-pink-and-blue-colour-block-cotton-rugby-shirt) but it’s not in the same league as the RM’s.
Thanks Oliver, yes I tried one of the Real McCoy’s ones and it was really nice – as you’d expect, the nicest I’ve tried in terms of the materials. Just a shame they didn’t do them in plain colours.
For rugby’s, Rowing Blazers are the best I’ve found, coming in at 14oz. Although most of the designs are quite bold, they do have a range of plain colours too. https://rowingblazers.com/collections/rugby/products/rugby?variant=40482674769954&primary=clothing&edit=
Thanks Alistair. I thought they were a little non-traditional, eg they don’t have the covered placket over the buttons
Agree with Alistair on the merit of Rowing Blazer’s rugby. It’s the most substantial and best executed that I’ve encountered.
I take Simon’s point regarding the absence of covered placket (and the omission of rubber buttons), but we embrace any number of derivative items not pointed towards original concept and use. Precise details aside, it’s a marvelous garment. With my compliments, I’d be pleased to send one to you for a road test, Simon.
That’s OK, thank you John. I wouldn’t be a fan of those details.
Just to be clear, are you a regular reader? Or do you work for them or run a shop that stocks them, for example?
Coming up on 7 years with my RMW Comfort Craftsman boots. I have put them through hell and they still look great. Can’t recommend them enough.
Although I see from the preceding discussion that you are opting for a rubber-soled pair of RMs, Simon, one rather unique option with RMs that you might keep in mind for future (or just be interested in as a curio) is their brass screwed soles. Rather than being welted at all, the soles are attached to the upper with a coil of brass and then tacked, leading to a profile that’s equivalent to a Blake stitch or even slimmer. You could easily mistake them for being glued/cemented, since there’s no visible stitching. A traditional method, there’s apparently only around five machines still in existence which make this style of sole, and RMW is one of very few who apparently will still do so.
Really interesting, thanks James
The traditional trench coats work well with suits, but in the current environment when you would wear them more casually, directly with a turtleneck or a cardigan, I tend to prefer the shorter versions from the heritage brands. They are a really good compromise in between a jacket and a coat. I find myself wearing 3 times more often my shorter version over my traditional trench-coat (same heritage brand, 30 years older than the new one…).
This is personal Eric, but I strongly dislike those shorter rain coats. They look, to me, like they’ve had the bottom cut off them, and take away most of what’s appealing about a trench coat in a first place – that long sweep that balances perfectly with the bigger lapels, and high collar. If I was going to wear a shorter coat, I’d prefer something that was designed to be that length, like a wax jacket, a longer pea coat, a fireman’s coat etc
I think Burberry and Mackintosh have trench coats that come to the knee or lower. Burberry’s is called the “long Kensington heritage”. It is very nice – and twice the price of the PS trench, which is just as nice, if you don’t have short arms… Simon, have you perhaps considered changing the design of the, cuff flaps, to put the coat within reach of those of us who’d need to have the sleeves shortened by more than 1.5cm? It wouldn’t take anything more than replacing the snap with a button, would it?
Ah really? That’s good news.
No I hadn’t considered that. Perhaps we should for the next iteration
Burberry also do one in a more classic fit called the Westminster in a ‘tumbled tropical gabardine.
Grenfell also do quite a classic trench coat.
Thanks Aaron. Yes not a big fan of that material, and prefer the other styles to the Grenfell one, but both nice options
Simon, I understand your opinion very well from your perspective (I think I have read that you are quite tall). But I find that long coats do not look that well or even outright bad on shorter guys. They make you look even shorter and somehow lost in the bulk of textile.
That’s certainly an issue Markus, yes, though I find if they are shortened more to the knee rather than above it, they can still look good. And if they were above the knee I’d just switch to one of those other styles
While true, with outerwear I think you can compromise a bit on looks for practicality.
And of course the very practical reason that a longer coat is more functional in the rain. A Barbour jacket is great, but your trousers get wet in a downpour.
Yes, very true
Fair point, this may be clearly less of a trench coat and more of something different, like the illegitimate child of a trench coat and a peacoat…
That feels like it could be a fun thread. Ill-designed garments that are the illegitimate children of two others…
The leather coat. IMO.
Hi Simon, may I know which size did you get for the gilet? Thank you.
I don’t have one yet, but the 50 was the best size on me
Ah a list from my own heart. I have a white Colhays shawl cardigan and fantastic it is, also by coincidence I picked up 2 x Eddie Bauer gillets on ebay exactly as shown (one red one beige – bargains both) RM Williams are great boots and I agree they are more work than show, my original pair are still going strong after over 20 years wear and one repair back in Australia (apparently they no longer do the same construction now as then and so they had to be returned to maker. Quality (march quality) rugby shirts a rare beast these days…
As Peter mentioned Patrick Grant’s Community Clothing do some really fantastic rugbys with all the details and quality you’d want at an extremely reasonable £59.
If you want a rugby with a more sporty style or have a particular affiliation to a national team then I would recommend The Rugby Company. They have some really lovely vintage details and embroidery.
Thanks Oli. From what I can see of the CC ones they’re not the material we’re talking about elsewhere, but then I haven’t seen one in person, and they certainly seem like good value for money.
You had me at « you can wear the crap out of it. »
Great picks, Simon. The Colhays cardigan reminds me of a classic Dehen cardigan (but in cashmere rather than more rugged heavy-gauge merino). I picked up a black collegiate cardigan with stripes on the arm from a vintage shop near me last fall – from the 1940s, with the original owner’s name stitched into the tag. Beautiful and sturdy, with a bit of bagging in the hip pockets and a stray hole, but mostly very well-kept (no pilling to speak of).
Curious if they still make to a high quality. Looking back it seems you might’ve perused some of their goods at John Simons last year.
I have, and this year actually as well Dan. John Simons have some at the moment. They’re a little scratchy and old-fashioned in style for me (I actually prefer some of the vintage ones) but the quality from a make an substance point of view is certainly there
Thanks for this post. Speaking just for myself — but perhaps for other readers — I am always on the lookout for items that are new but not so trendy that they will appear silly in a few years time. Such items are difficult to find, which is why your guide is so helpful.
While going through the list, I was struck by something: the absence of any Italian brands. And once I started to think about this, I realized that there is actually very little discussion of Italian brands on PS nowadays. Just to take one example, if you search for Kiton on the website, there are almost no recent articles, in contrast to a decade ago when mentions of Kiton were reasonably frequent.
So, I thought I would drop you a line to ask why. Does this say something about the evolution of Italian brands? Has their quality diminished? Or have they become too trendy, moving away from the precepts of “permanent style”? Or have they simply stood still while UK/US brands have passed them in terms of quality or durable style? Or is it something else entirely?
In any case, many thanks for this post — and for your invaluable blog, more generally.
Thanks Josh.
It’s an interesting point. I think there are a couple of things going on.
One is that I used to be (along with many readers) more obsessed with handwork, hand sewing, finer and more decorative finishing in general. It’s the kind of thing Kiton promotes heavily, but I feel is less of a priority for me nowadays, in line with other fine things (superfine wools, perhaps slimmer more hyper-finished shoes).
I think that’s mostly a craft angle. I think the second factor is a style one, which is that Italians brands still tend towards the slimmer silhouette, the stretchier fabric, the more washed or processed garment. In recent years I have come to favour more a (slightly) fuller silhouette, intensely dislike stretch, and prefer rawer garments that are about pure quality and how they wear in.
This latter tendency feels, to me, like a trend in general as well. And yet you still see a lot of the slimmer Italian look around. But it’s why there are more Japanese brands on here, more Scottish knitwear, more Americana too. Less of the old favourites of Incotex, Boglioli etc.
There are many exceptions to this of course, particularly among tailors in Italy but in RTW too. But it feels like that is generally true.
You raise some very interesting and important points to consider. What are your current thoughts on Luca Faloni garments in the context of this discussion?
I think they still have some lovely options – I’d be more inclined to Scottish knits often, but I know others will prefer that lighter, looser knit. The shirts remain nice too. It’s more the other clothing that falls into this category, like the trousers, but I’ve never worn those
unfortunately I agree, here in Italy everything in fashion/most RTW is still about stretch fabrics and excessively slim silhouettes.
Makes sense. You are certainly right that Italians are now going in for stretch and processed garments. But as you imply in your last sentence there are surely exceptions. It would be wonderful if you could ferret those out for us!
I really like that Colhays cardigan. I bought my first Colhays piece about a month ago, the brown mock neck, and the quality is stunning. I’m definitely focusing more on UK/USA companies these days,such as Private White and Billy Reid, that provide very well made, well designed, and very functional clothing. Thanks for this post!
Simon – on the subject of trench coats, have you tried or have any knowledge of Grenfell?
Yes, I don’t own anything but I know them fairly well and usually browse the new things each Pitti
What do you make of them?
Potential subject of a future article?
They’re nice, they always do good stuff.
Probably not, just because there is so little access to it in the UK
Always good to see a beautiful shetland – my favourite knitwear. But my impression of the plain Drake’s shetlands on my recent visit to their new Copenhagen store was not great. They seemed a bit flimsy and loosely knit compared to my Harley of Scotland (which is half the price).
However, the Drake’s colour palette is great. Personally, I’m not sure I’d feel comfortable in a purple like this. Or get enough use out of it to justify choosing it over a navy or grey.
Seeing that you often wear brighter colours these days, I would be interested to know how much use you get out of them? Is it just that when you already have enough basic colours you can experiment more?
Largely, yes. I wouldn’t say you need a navy or grey shetland before getting a brighter colour, but it’s probably sensible to have a navy and grey crewneck before you do
Have you tried Mazarin’s Ivy line from e.g. Mes Chassetes Rouge? I just bought 2, as I was desperately looking for non-dressy, sturdier but still nice socks, and they were proving impossible to find locally. Only tried them on but so far really liked them, they are a surprising mix of cotton-linen-synthetic. They even seem to stay up fairly decently considering they are mid-calf.
I have tried them, yes. They’re nice, but not really what I would call an Ivy sock or really a casual sock – they’re still using fine yarns and to me look a little too dressy
Hi Simon,
I came across these and remembered your search. Perhaps one of these variants are closer to what you’re looking for:
https://www.americantrench.com/products/athletic-stripe-crew?variant=44368081879286
https://www.americantrench.com/products/fw19-kennedy-luxe-athletic-socks-classic-colors?variant=17795247177818
https://www.americantrench.com/products/retro-stripes-ss22?variant=44622466842870
Cheers Mike. I’m not sure about the stripes to be honest, and the price makes me worry a little on the quality side (plus the spandex included). But I didn’t know the brand and maker before, so it’s really good to be aware of them – thank you
Regarding trench coats, I fantasized them for a long time, eventually bought a vintage Burberry’s from Ebay in size 48 (which is my size in theory, but they were huge really) since it seems impossible to find a 46, and ended up almost never wearing it. In part because it is in fact too big for me, but also I found it a bit too dramatic, and the huge double breasted closure was more a hassle than practical as most of the times I don’t need to use it. I think I should have gone for a more simple single breasted style.
Spot on re: RM Williams. I’ve had my Craftsman pair for 14 years now and use them as rain beaters. I had them resoled with brick red colored Dainite soles a few years back by B. Nelson in NYC. I was likewise initially skeptical about the toe shape but learned to embrace them with time. Looking forward to your deeper dive.
Nice to hear, thanks
I’ve had a Barbarian rugby shirt in the past (300+ wears over 13yrs), and I’d be hard pressed to tell my new JPress replacement from my recollections of it. I think the JPress one is a bit softer and lighter weight, but they don’t list details on their website.
If being worn as collegiate gear, they seem to target slightly different markets. Barbarian has better matches for big Midwestern schools from what I’ve seen but doesn’t have JPress’s coverage of southern ones.
How did you size in the ALD cardigan? And are you happy with the size?
I took a small, they come up quite big
Barbarian are stocked by AllBluesCo in Leeds. I also like Columbia Knit but they don’t have a UK presence.
100% Cotton UK made Rugby’s can be had from Community Clothing, but I don’t like their current designs. Interested if anyone has any other leads on UK Made rugbys that aren’t a poly cotton blend.
Looks like a good selection what I found interesting is that you picked a Ralph Lauren trench coat , you looked into their knitwear as well as I hear it’s good quality and has a classy preppy aesthetic about it?
There is certainly that aesthetic, and I’d say Ralph is nearly always the best for that. However the quality isn’t that great in relation to the price, as another reader alluded to here. If it’s something simple like a navy cashmere cable knit, you can probably find better value elsewhere
Dear Simon, I am interested in the boots. I often deal with clients and people who wear jean and white sneakers. I am currently looking for an alternative in leather (like the LHS I wear in warmer months). Would the boots fall into this category? What other options could I consider?
Second question, if I may: What do you think about the boots in black?
Yes they would. Other options would be the English makers – Trickers, Crockett’s, Edward Green, depending on your budget.
In black the boots could be a little more showy, a little bikerish perhaps.
Simon,
What is the ideal length of a traditional Trench Coat? Obviously, the length varies on each person’s height and I’m wondering if I should have mine hemmed being a shorter guy? My coat is sitting just a hair past or right at mid-shin. Thank you.
That does sound a little long. I’d say just above mid-shin really, between there and the knee
Thank you, appreciate it.
Without having read all the comments – I would be interested to know if you thought/tried rowing blazers offering of rugby shirts?
They seem to have a traditional heavy cotton. At least marketed as the real deal.
When I was at school in the UK we had heavy cotton rugby shirts that was reversible – red one side, black the other, with a white collar. Some nostalgia in these pieces for me, but generally too hot to wear in Australia most of the year.
Yes that has been mentioned above Charlie. I know it’s hard to read all the comments, but a ‘find in page’ search would bring it up
Yeah it’s not the most versatile but I think it would also look good with grey denim and dark olive chinos
Simon, your Drakes’ shetland selection reminded me of this piece from Mallochs:
https://www.mallochs.co.uk/collections/knitwear/products/wreay-shetland-crew-neck-pink-haar
What do you think of this? I’m drawn to it. The dusty pink gives an interesting pop of color, yet seems easier to wear than the stronger Drakes’ purple.
Yes that does look nice, but I would want to try it in person. I feel like it might work best with one or two combinations, eg that dark denim and a white shirt. But so hard to know with colours you’re not used to
Can testify to the durability of the RM Williams Craftsmen boots. I’ve worn mine for 27yrs and are my main weekend and evening shoe so they’ve seen some use. They fit gloriously almost like a leather sock now as they have adapted to my feet.
Amazing pair of shoes and nothing comes close
Hey Simon, have you tried this Website for Barbarian Rugby Shrits?
https://barbarian.eu/
It says that they ship EU-wide.
Yes Moe – that has come up a couple of times in the comments above!
Interested to see your breakdown of RM Williams. I’ve owned two pairs for quite a while now and love them. In recent years black RMs have become a staple of business wear, and the dark brown. When I bought my second pair in dark tan, they had to be specially ordered and the quality is much higher, however that’s no longer an option I believe.
Thanks. How did you feel the quality was higher, and why was it? It was the same model correct?
Same model, yes. The dark tan leather has moulded to my foot and aged better with wear. I’m not a shoe expert but I also feel the welt (connection between sole and leather upper) is sturdier and better stitched. Both pairs are many years old now and have held up beautifully though.
OK, thanks Lachie
Hi Simon,
On the L’impermeabile gilets. Is there a case to be made for having both the taupe and navy?
I ask because I am still in two minds on that Real Mccoys deerskin – I suspect it is quite heavy and while the quality is not in doubt, still not sure on the style (I am finding it difficult to get past the the western inspired “pointed” suede shoulder inserts for reasons I cannot fathom. Love the rest of it).
Back to these, the taupe is clearly unique in look due to the waxed cotton etc, but is the Navy equally unique in look or does it look like other Navy alternatives? I am guessing though, that the way the Navy ages is what will set it apart.
Thanks in advance.
Yes I think that’s right Yash. However, as with most things I’d recommend taking one first and seeing how you like – I assume you don’t have the taupe yet?
Hi Simon, no not yet. I might start with the taupe and see how we go. Thanks.
Completely agree with the comment on R.M round toe vs. square toe. When I was looking at getting my first pair the round toe just didn’t sit right with me… always thought I’d go with rounded, but apparently not.
Dear Simon,
I’m surely not the only one who’s been waiting for that R.M. Williams deep dive! I’ve been in the market for a Chelsea and I cannot decide between RM and Carmina to try, so I’ll need your help I guess!:D
Thanks!
Hi, Simon. Given the Ralph Lauren/Polo coats no longer seems to be available, what are your thoughts regarding this J.Crew trench coat?
https://www.jcrew.com/p/mens/categories/clothing/coats-and-jackets/anorak/ludlow-trench-coat-in-water-resistant-cotton/BS470
It looks OK Jake – a little short perhaps, a little plain, and I guess not the highest quality from J Crew, but probably a decent option. Hard to say much about fabric or shape just from images