New York: A menswear shopping guide
New York is a strange town for menswear. It doesn’t have the same traditional shops as Europe and bespoke is substantially undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it’s for value and department stores: l...
New York: A menswear shopping guide
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Yes, Kamakura closed both NYC shops. One can still purchase online, though the high level of Japanese personal service is missing....
Book launches in Paris and New York
We're going to have launch parties for the new book, The Casual Style Guide, in both Paris and New York over the coming months. The Paris launch will be on April 18th at Beige, and New York on May 16th at The Armoury. I'm really excited about this. ...
Book launches in Paris and New York
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Great news. I can't wait to hear more about the book launches in Paris and New York. It's fantastic that there will be stock available at the launch events, even though the book sold out online so quickly....
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Collar turned up and it looks like a Nehru jacket or one of those Bavarian/ Alpine jackets that often have either silver or stag horn buttons. In any event, this one you wear here is very nice....
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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Thanks Nezar, that is interesting and useful...
A shopping guide to ready-made trousers
By Manish Puri If my years of reading Permanent Style have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look better than a tailored jacket. If my years of having eyes have taught me anything, it’s that few things make a man look w...
A shopping guide to ready-made trousers
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Thanks again. I have a similarly coloured dark olive linen suit albeit not ideally fitting these days with which i can experiment. I still feel it has to be the darkest of navy or midnight to work but perhaps its a pairi...
This feels like me
I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
This feels like me
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Ecru as a colour would - navy is harder, as we covered here. Chinos as a whole with jackets is a tricky one though. Better with a Drake's style (very unstructured and casual), harder with a more tailored one...
A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
By Manish Puri Whilst the recent sun in London has brought a sugar rush of excitement for the warmer days that lie ahead, it also brings a more troubling, recurring question: how do I usually dress for summer? It shouldn’t be difficult to answ...
A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
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I am in the market for a polo shirt. Very helpful article. The pictures on the model wearing the two different A & S sizes reassured me of the correct size to buy....
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
By Manish Puri Whilst soft tailoring is hardly a new concept, there’s something about unstructured tailoring that feels particularly in sync with modern life: it’s indisputably more casual, reframes imperfections as characteristics, is l...
A guide to brands of unstructured jacket
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Manish/ Simon, I don’t suppose you’ve ever tried the Sunspel unstructured blazer? At £350, it seems to me pretty cheap compared to where the majority of their products sit in terms of pricing (although I’m no expe...
Reader profile: Ben C
I’ve known Ben for a long time now. He worked round the corner from me during my journalism days, and we were both customers of visiting artisans like Elia Caliendo and Simone Abbarchi. We even did a shoot together for Elia years ago. Ben and ...
Reader profile: Ben C
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Love the semi-casual....
Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...
I’ve always recommended Crockett & Jones to readers over the years, as a solid, good-value English shoe. But I’ve only briefly owned a pair. I had some when I was in my twenties, but bought the wrong size - so sold them within a ...
Crockett & Jones ‘Harvard’ loafe...
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I think they're fine, even on casual shoes, if the alternative is you wearing down your toes super-fast and both shortening the life of the shoe and making the front look worn. But if you want something subtler then go f...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
Unstructured jackets, or shirt-jackets, have become very popular in recent years, and The Armoury offers a bigger range than almost anyone else. So I thought it would be useful to review all of them together, and run through what I think of each mo...
The Armoury’s ‘Dayware’ jackets reviewed
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Probably matte-black linen, though silk varies a fair bit so it's hard to say much about it without seeing it in person...
Playing around with white bucks
During sunny weather in the past few weeks, I've been playing around with these old shoes from Lodger, the shoe shop that used to be on Clifford Street in London, and where I first started writing about menswear . The shoes were a recreation of a 1...
Playing around with white bucks
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I have two pair of white BUCS. One is Nunn Bush and is a Derby style. The second is by Churches. It is a wingtips style. I have a Sperry trainer in white canvas. I think I am well represented here. I like my white shoes ...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
Last Summer, I had coffee with a friend on a hot afternoon in Mayfair. Sitting outside a pavement cafe, he was wearing loafers, a beautifully tailored trousers and - to my surprise - a short-sleeved shirt. I’ve never really liked short sleeve...
Introducing: The PS short-sleeved shirt
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That is terribly sad. Might have to do a vintage tour around Tokyo or purchase the one that Fullcount is offering. Hoping it works out....
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
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Not really I'm afraid - the more formal cut is a little underserved for MTM. It's much easier to get softer Italian stuff, largely because all the factories are there...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
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I cannot believe its acceptable for the mayor of london to wear a suit without a tie, I work on a building site and have to wear hard hat ,boots and a hi vi's,xthats the dress code, if I worked in a office I would Don a ...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
Best e-commerce: The Armoury Runners-up: Mr Porter, Luca Faloni Mark Cho and I have been playing e-mail tag for a while. First he had to move the call, then I did, and when we finally connect, he’s in the back of a cab on his way h...
Best e-commerce (and video) 2021: The Armoury
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Ah, nice to hear that Leo. I do it really just to keep myself entertained, so good to know when readers like it too!...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
We all know different materials age in different ways. Leather is probably the most beautiful, and certainly the most varied. As a skin, if untreated it darkens when exposed to dirt or hands, yet lightens where it’s exposed to sunli...
Armoury workwear chinos: How great things age
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Yes I think so...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
With the continuing aim of covering more made-to-measure, I was keen to feature The Armoury’s tailoring on PS - both because I like the style, and because frankly there is little at their level in New York or Hong Kong. New York has lots of vi...
The Armoury 101 made-to-measure suit: Review
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Suits you well, Simon…or conversely so. The jacket is well-styled and fits nicely; and while I agree that trousers could use a bit more fluidity, they work well nonetheless. My usual small point of contention goes to t...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
One of the things bespoke artisans have struggled with during the Covid-19 crisis is not being able to travel. Savile Row makes more than half its money in the US, and the Spring trips weren’t possible. Should they try to do remote fittings? C...
The Online Symposium: How luxury menswear can bec...
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Mostly the style...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, becaus...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
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It's hard sometimes to quantify precisely, because of the combination of gauge and ply - the gauge meaning it might be chunky hard but it's more loosely put together. Our shawl is a little like that....
Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
Rubato The Permanent Style pop-up shop is coming back to 37 Savile Row, in the second half of March. Those following PS on Instagram stories might have seen the gradual announcements, but we have just confirmed the final two brands this week: Scott...
Pop-up 6 is coming! Discover the brands
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Navy would be my first thought, then cream knitwear. Maybe black as well?...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
Just before Christmas, I took my belted coat into Whitcomb & Shaftesbury to have it converted into a normal overcoat. As detailed on my original article, this was always a possibility. I began the experiment of a bespoke wrap coat with the...
The style of a belted wrap coat – with Whit...
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If you like the style and nothing else really works in the same way, then yes I think it's good. I'd go for wool I think. I'm not sure you'd notice much difference for 500 extra...
The polo shirt under knitwear
I have a particular problem with crewneck sweaters. Although I love them, I find my relatively long neck means they don’t look good without a collar underneath. I need a shirt, rather than just a T-shirt. It’s the reason I sometimes we...
The polo shirt under knitwear
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It could work, but I think the finer Smedley might struggle over the polo shirt - the latter would be a bulkier material than the former, which is not really what you want when you wear one thing over another...
Holiday snaps 2019: No shorts in the city
I just got back from our annual summer holiday: two weeks in Portugal, in a villa with my wife and children, miles away from anything. I normally write a post running through things worn on holiday, as I know readers find it interesting h...
Holiday snaps 2019: No shorts in the city
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'It's possible to be overdressed in this way, too'. If such an outfit which you are wearing or for example an outfit like a shirt/polo with linen trouser and espadrilles can seem overdressed then what does the average cr...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium ...
I’m not from China or Hong Kong. Although I’ve visited more than a dozen times, I can’t say I know it well. It was therefore a particular pleasure to host this edition of the Symposium in Hong Kong, and hear the experiences, views ...
Menswear craft in China and Hong Kong: Symposium ...
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Nice point. I have a shirt made by them so will plan to do that...
