I’ve had a lot of questions over the past few weeks about summer clothes, which isn’t surprising given most of Europe has been running through unseasonably warm weather.
For me, the keys to casual summer style are white (or pale) trousers, brown suede shoes and a blouson – the off-duty jacket of choice.
White ducks or pale flannel trousers (grey or cream) look great when the sun is out, and really at no other time. As the Italian tradition teaches us, and the pictures here from Loro Piana demonstrate, brown suede is the best accompaniment to those trousers.
These suede shoes can range from dark Goodyear-welted models (I own and highly recommend the Edward Green Asquiths, in mink) to unlined, pale desert boots. A casual brown slip-on can also work without socks – though only with more casual trousers and suits. Pale Incotex chinos, for example, or a navy cotton suit.
As to the blouson, this recommendation is born out of a common mistake. Some men who buy tailoring revert to off-the-peg when it comes to summer, unlined jackets. It’s a mistake I’ve made myself more than once. Just because the jacket is in an unstructured hopsack does not mean it does not have to fit.
Commission a lightweight navy blazer from your tailor and, in the meantime, find a nice zip-up blouson in a fine wool or suede. Wear it with an open-necked blue oxford or a long-sleeved white polo shirt. Then add white trousers and brown suede.
More on summer jackets here: Unlined jackets.
A summer suit suggestion here: Inspirational lovat.
Simon
Who makes the blouson in your first photograph? I like the look of the shape and lack of over fussy detail, the bane of so many casual coats.
Michael,
I wouldn’t call the jacket in the first photo a blouson – only the last one really has that shape, as it is shorter and zipped. All the pieces are made by Loro Piana.
Simon
hello simon
not related to this post, but i was wondering if you have ever heard about an a gentleman accessory called “Shirt Master braces”.
As mentioned last week by Mr Bryant at the FT style column.
http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/e64efb3c-66e0-11e0-8d88-00144feab49a.html#axzz1JzXSbIYE
i’d appreciate your help.
best
ram
No, but they sound horrific. And given that he thinks TM Lewin shirts are Savile Row, I wouldn’t put much faith in his recommendations.
Simon
TM Lewin shirts are Savile Row? I had worn one and never again.Period.By the way, your blog is excellent!
It would appear that Alexis Petridis read this post with interest:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/jul/08/refined-suede-alexis-petridis
Simon
Lord piana is too costly for me
Where can I get a more affordable blouson
Also please advise on a v cold weather jacket that might also be used skiing
Simon – if you are only going to have one pair of white trousers, do you think they should be cotton (more casual) or cloth? Or do you think an off-white is better suited to jackets and a smarter look? Many thanks!
I’d say off white, probably in cotton
When you say that white chinos and cream look good only during day, what does that mean exactly?
Can’t it be worn at night?
They don’t only look good during the day, but usually white things like that look best in the light, in sun. See article here on the traditions behind that.
It applies more to smart clothing than casual clothing, but still – white jeans will often look better on a bright day than an overcast one
Simon!
Do you wear your white sneakers even after the sun goes down?
I was planning on wearing it but a bit confused.
Yes I do. White doesn’t really apply to sneakers in this respect I don’t think, given they’re so ubiquitous