New York: A menswear shopping guide
New York is a strange town for menswear. It doesn’t have the same traditional shops as Europe and bespoke is substantially undermined by visitors from Savile Row. If there is a tradition, it’s for value and department stores: l...
New York: A menswear shopping guide
Match in comments:
Yes, Kamakura closed both NYC shops. One can still purchase online, though the high level of Japanese personal service is missing....
How does Paris compare to Pitti? Pendleton, Frizm...
Boots on display at Viberg, at Man/Woman; above, Welcome Edition This past January, after Pitti, I went to see the equivalent shows in Paris for the first time. I’d never been before and was interested to see how it compared to Pitti in terms ...
How does Paris compare to Pitti? Pendleton, Frizm...
Match in comments:
No, sorry Avi...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
by Philipp Fröhlich Between 1966 and 1970, Barnett Newman, a prominent figure in abstract expressionism, painted four versions of a painting he called ‘Who's Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue’ (above). I assume Newman foresaw the intim...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
Match in comments:
My rule is akin to the doctors' oath to "first do no harm". In other words, with an outfit, avoid major blunders and you have done 90% of what's needed. If a tie is dramatic in pattern, the shirt and jacket must be subdu...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
A few weeks ago, a reader asked my opinion on a pair of suede boots that were clearly a copy of the popular Open Walk from Loro Piana . That soft, unlaced chukka has become so widespread in a few short years that some don’t even recognise them...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
Match in comments:
Well I'd argue there's another point on top of this one to make. Quality. Recently, my wife needed a pair of new shoes. She previously had both a pair of Clark's, and a pair of "More expansive brand" (to respect anonymit...
If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...
I’ve had a few requests over the years to do one of these, our wardrobe-building guides , about knitwear. One of the challenges of doing so is that very little is right or wrong, and a lot is personal. Still, there are some help...
If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...
Match in comments:
The biggest thing with shetland is that it's just more unusual, being so fuzzy. It's also a little less smart. But, if it's a style you like there's no reason you couldn't wear a lot of them and they do well for you. If ...
Reader Profile: Jeff
Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly m...
Reader Profile: Jeff
Match in comments:
Thank you for the answer. I wanted to ask this question as well after reading the article, but thankfully, Magnus already asked the question....
Wearing pink: Tips and combinations
By Manish Puri “That was the day I learned how dangerous a color can be. That a boy could be knocked off that shade and made to reckon his trespass. Even if color is nothing but what the light reveals, that nothing has laws, and a boy on a pin...
Wearing pink: Tips and combinations
Match in comments:
Hi Daniel! Yes, it was the Connolly’s one I write about here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/12/the-guide-to-shetland-sweaters-part-two-brands.html Still available in smaller sizes! I’d certainly recommend it ha...
Christmas gift list 2022: Towelling, tooling and ...
1 Double-breasted towelling robe Anderson & Sheppard, £395 The sartorial design of this robe from Anderson & Sheppard is so satisfying. It basically has ulster-coat lapels, with one buttoning under the chin when the collar is u...
Christmas gift list 2022: Towelling, tooling and ...
Match in comments:
I think the off-white x beige is the best yes, even with those trousers...
Reader profile: David
This is the second in our series of articles meeting, and questioning, Permanent Style readers. The first profiled Manish, who enthused about Russian watches and recommended that readers should start building a wardrobe with good trousers. It's wort...
Reader profile: David
Match in comments:
I know i am sounding like a broken record but the reader profile..another well dressed young man....keep it up!!!! Peace...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent ...
Over the past year, Agyesh Madan at Stòffa and I have been talking about how to create something useful together on sustainability. Today’s article is our first step. It sets out a definition of sustainability, and then a framework of ...
A Sustainability Framework: Stoffa and Permanent ...
Match in comments:
Hey Anders, Thanks for raising it, I hadn't heard about it no. I'd be sceptical about how much information the site has to be honest. Very little will be publicly available, particularly for a lot of the menswear compani...
Reader profile: Manish
Sometimes I feel a bit envious of brands holding trunk shows, because they meet so many more PS readers than I do. I see people at occasional events, and of course the pop-ups once or twice a year, but that's about it. So one of the nice things ab...
Reader profile: Manish
Match in comments:
Are those Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers in Dark Brown suede?...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
Reviewing this jumper from Stoffa is a good opportunity to discuss the current trend of knitwear being cut shorter and wider, in something of a vintage style. The way knitwear is usually designed to work, the ribbing at the bottom sits on top of th...
Review: Stoffa ribbed polo (and vintage knitwear ...
Match in comments:
I sized up slightly, because they are quite slim....
How clothing kept me sane
Something that has consistently surprised me over the past year of this horrible pandemic, is the friends - especially in the menswear industry - that have lost some interest in what they wear every day. I offer no kind of opinion on that choice, a...
How clothing kept me sane
Match in comments:
Good article but then again I find all of them enjoyable..enjoy your day.......
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Every day, when I get dressed, there is something new I’m interested in wearing. Not necessarily new clothing, but a new outfit, a new combination of colours, perhaps a mixing of styles. And sometimes just a combination that feels new, becaus...
Lockdown looks: What I really wore at home
Match in comments:
It's hard sometimes to quantify precisely, because of the combination of gauge and ply - the gauge meaning it might be chunky hard but it's more loosely put together. Our shawl is a little like that....
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
OK, so. Friend and photographer Jamie Ferguson has been locked up indoors for weeks, as we all have. And he’s gone a bit stir crazy. We had started talking a while ago about shoots we could do remotely. Perhaps looking at a few out...
Light relief: Jamie’s clothes and style
Match in comments:
Cheers Tim, good to know always...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
Tailored cotton trousers are, in my experience, an absolute bastard to get right. I had my first pair made with Anderson & Sheppard seven years ago. The colour was perfect (a light stone grey), as was the cut. But they always felt like old m...
Stoffa made-to-measure trousers: Review
Match in comments:
I wouldn't really, no. You want something without stretch, and I'd suggest Rubato, Blackhorse Lane, Buck Mason, or The Real McCoy's and other Japanese brands. If you search for chinos on PS you'll see coverage of quite a...
Best Brand 2018: Drake’s (or, how to expand...
Best Brand of the Year: Drake's Runners up: Stoffa, Private White VC The Permanent Style award for ‘Brand of the Year’ was understandably the hardest to define of our five awards - launched a few weeks ago. People can like b...
Best Brand 2018: Drake’s (or, how to expand...
Match in comments:
I'm not sure on which ones are made where to be honest Malcolm. It has varied a bit. The Portugal ones I've seen and talked to other readers about haven't had as nice a collar and had more variation/shrinkage...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
One thing readers asked for in our 'We are 10' post was more reflections on bespoke pieces. When covering bespoke, I tend to write both an initial piece giving the background and approach of the maker, and then a fuller review when the piece is read...
Reflections on bespoke: Stoffa, Richard James, Ca...
Match in comments:
I never did a full piece on it I'm afraid. But those trousers were in heavy Pardessus cloth that Holland & Sherry no longer sells, made by Elia Caliendo. The shirt is in Everyday Denim made by Luca Avitabile, and the sho...
Brands need to talk about product
There are several ways to define the menswear world we write about. As classic style, for instance, or about quality and craft. Also as luxury, given such quality is expensive. But one aspect that is rarely emphasised, and should be more in my opini...
Brands need to talk about product
Match in comments:
Well, my main point was, that the quality is often not there. I don't have an issue with paying a premium price for a premium product, but I won't pay it for an average or even below average product. Here's an example: R...
Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review
Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London. Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and modern, with jackets and trouser...
Stoffa suede flight jacket – Review
Match in comments:
Mine was made to measure Sid, so not sure I'll be that helpful. I believe we started with a 40 and then narrowed the waist and lenghtened the arms, I think...
Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London
This week, Thursday June 1st to Saturday 3rd, both Agyesh of Stoffa and Marcus Malmborg for Eidos will be back in London. I’ve written previously about the wonderful colours and design sense of Stoffa, but not about Mr Malmborg (above). Marcus...
Marcus Malmborg: Eidos made-to-measure in London
Match in comments:
Unfortunately I have to add that my own experience with Mr Marcus Malmborg is not a good one. At best I could describe his customer service skills as very poor, and at worst he is possibly dishonest. I would advise again...
Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It
He looks pretty suave doesn't he? Got a good lean on. Patrick at Swedish shoe shop Skoaktiebolaget recently posed for an article of mine, above, in How To Spend It magazine. (A supplement of the Financial Times, and arguably the top luxury publicat...
Skoaktiebolaget and Stoffa in How To Spend It
Match in comments:
Hi Simon, Have you considered writing for publications like Gay Times or Attitude? Both publications are aimed mainly at men and could increase your audience (and income). Best regards Joel...
Stòffa: Beautiful, refined, made-to-measure (and ...
Last week, Agyesh Madan of Stòffa visited London for the first time, in a trunk show alongside Marcus Malmborg (Swedish agent for Eidos made-to-measure, among other things). Eidos is more of a known entity, and we will cover the service more ...
Stòffa: Beautiful, refined, made-to-measure (and ...
Match in comments:
I can't remember seeing that shade in person. If it is any lighter than that, it wouldn't look great with grey trousers, which is a bit of a limitation. In the image it does just about, but also with particular things el...
