Sartoria Pasinato cavalry-twill suit: Review
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This suit from Vicenza-based Sartoria Pasinato has turned out very smartly, with a clean fit and very sharp line.
Part of this is a result of the cloth, which is a cavalry twill from Vitale Barberis Canonico (584, 440g).
Twills like this (covert is very similar) are woven so densely that they drape better than anything else. And yet their colours, and that pronounced twill, also give them a slightly casual touch.
It’s interesting to compare this to the Sartoria Vergallo suit I had made two years ago, which was darker but perhaps - given its green cast and muted colour - equally smart. That too was from VBC.
However, the lion's share of the credit must of course go to Massimo Pasinato.
I covered Massimo’s background and his slightly unusual use of technology in my initial post here, when I visited him in Vicenza. And the first fitting was covered in a more personal, narrative style.
Since then we’ve had one more fitting - in London - after which I was sent the suit. The fit is very good, but particularly with two fittings on a first-time customer.
In that piece on the first fitting, I commented that the jacket looked rather short and boxy, and we lengthened it - so it was just hitting the second joint of my thumb.
The effect was significant, with the jacket now looking much leaner and in proportion. If I could I might lengthen it a touch more, but not much - perhaps 1cm.
I also asked for a more fitted waist, and that too has made a difference, though here too it could be taken a little further. Fortunately that’s something that it is easy to change - unlike length.
I think Massimo has a tendency to shorter jackets because of a need to cater to younger clients, and a broader range more generally, in a small town like Vicenza. Input and suggestions from those prefer a more classic look is therefore very helpful.
Hopefully as he begins to travel more this will only increase.
Massimo likes his finishing, and the suit has pick stitching half a centimetre from almost every seam and edge. (The distance is important - the closer to the edge, the less obvious it is.)
This amount of decorative handwork will be too much for some people, and on a second suit I might have it in fewer places.
But having said that, it is much more most noticeable on a light fabric. On anything dark or indeed with more texture (like flannel or cashmere) it would be barely visible.
The focus on finishing extends to fine buttonholes and a Milanese buttonhole on the lapel. The lining inside is also top-stitched nicely (see close-ups at the bottom of the post).
I think the selection of dark-brown horn buttons works well, given I think I will wear this largely with mid- or dark-brown leather shoes.
It doesn’t necessarily come across well in the photos, but something about the muted colour of the cloth makes it feel better suited to these (for me) than tan shoes.
Having said that, a dark-brown button with some lighter bits might have been more versatile, and still smart enough for dark shoes as well.
The ones here, by the way, are my bronze-coloured Top Drawer monks from Edward Green - the Oundle model on the old 888 last.
Elsewhere I’m wearing a white poplin shirt from Luca Avitabile, with a navy club-stripe tie from Drake’s.
Again the colour of the suit - pale but formal - makes it most suited to white shirts.
The tie, though, could be more colourful and summery, and that would make lighter-coloured shoes more suitable too.
The handkerchief, which is mostly cream, lime-green and black, is from Rubinacci.
The socks are light brown with a large geometric pattern (from Bresciani) and the cream panama hat is from Anderson & Sheppard.
I generally prefer browner panama hats, or at the least with brown bands, but this starker colour combination suits the formality of the outfit.
The photos, other than the close-ups below, were taken as part of a profile on me and three suits (Panico, Ciardi and Pasinato) in an upcoming edition of Japanese magazine Men’s Precious.
Thank you Yoshimi for the piece, and Kaomiyama-san for their use.
Pasinato bespoke suits start from from €2200 (€1800 without cloth), with made to measure from €900. If Massimo starts travelling to London, however, that might be slightly higher to account for the larger costs.
More details on Massimo’s work and his different bespoke and made-to-measure offerings can be found here.
Photography: Above, Jamie Ferguson; below, Permanent Style.
Would you have patch pockets with a cavalry twill again?
I prefer this to your Panico suit myself and would argue that the coat length is about right now.
Good point, possibly not
Simon
Lovely suit and cloth. However, for me, the Vergallo suit is nicer in terms of fit and colour. Do you have a preference between the two?
Hard to know yet – I haven’t worn this one much
I struggle to see the reason for making a suit out of trousering.
It’s hard wearing, it tailors like a dream, it breathes well and from 14-16 oz onwards it might survive its wearer. If you choose a lovely mottled grey or charcoal, nobody will notice the double twill structure. Also, the elastic structure makes it feel pleasant to the skin.
It’s lightweight, 440g, for cavalry twill and the colour is fine for a suit. I have a 3 piece suit in a lightweight keeper’s tweed in a light olive for spring and autumn wear. I have heavier cavalry twill trousers, generally worn with barathea and serge blazers, for cold winters.
Hi Simon. Does the suit tend to stain more, considering the colour?
I have similar trousers (from Cerrato) and you do have to be more careful with them, but not as bad as cream by any means
Simon,
Another handsome suit. I checked your cloth style guide but could not find cavalry-twill. I know the material and my question is, what is the ‘right’ occasion for a cavalry-twill in a suit? Cool days in the country? I am struggling to see a broad(er) use. When and Where do you think you will wear it?
I’d wear it mostly on brighter days in cooler weather, more city than country, but in the city that’s fine for me, for others in more professional offices it would likely be too casual
If you choose a navy or grey/charcoal cavalry twill, apart from the most formal occasions it will work fine in most environments. A big advantage is that cavalry twill wears cooler than its weight suggests. E.g. a pair of 20 oz in a light colour can still be worn in summer in say 22-25 degrees Celsius.
why does it wear cooler? Is it because it has no nap whatsoever?
Great suit, super neat and sharp. More balanced than the Panico’s one I think. Regarding the weight, would you say a 530/560 gr cavalry twill would be too heavy and warm for a suit?
Well, that would be pretty heavy. It would feel more like outerwear. But then if you don’t wear your jacket indoors much, that might be fine
What a lovely suit. I enjoyed reading about it and it looks great on you.
Why would you want to wear a more colourful and summery tie with a suit so heavy you would never actually wear it in summer?
I like the overall silhouette, but think jetted rather than patch pockets would have looked better, and I think having a lapped seam on a suit is just plain wrong. It should stay on a traditional bleu de travail.
There aren’t really any lapped seams on this, just double pick stitching that gives it a raised edge. Nothing is lifted off the cloth (as it is on my Chittleborough or Whitcomb navy suit for example)
The close up of your shoulder seam shows it is lapped. Sorry.
I was actually talking to a tailor about this today. He said he wouldn’t call this lapped as there is no extra material, but that his old cutter would.
I guess the terms aren’t always consistent.
Beautiful suit; the picture of you coming down the stairs is sheer perfection! My only quibble with the entire outfit is that I fail to see how the pocket square complements it in any way….
Thanks!
With the square, I quite liked the cream reflecting the white of the shirt, and the lime green has something in common with the cast of the suit. The black I didn’t mind as the brown elements in the rest of the outfit are so dark
Simon, another great post. I read the previous post (The First Fitting Process) again after reading this one and had a question on the buttoning point of the jacket. You wrote that the buttoning point for a newcomer to bespoke is around the natural waist and one could experiment within 1 cm above / below that point. Do you find yourself adjusting that within the range depending on the cut of the jacket or do you usually have it at the same point?
Well, it would definitely be higher or lower depending on the length of the jacket – the amount above or below has to be in rough proportion. But otherwise I don’t think so, no
A small question: would you say that someone who was not as tall and slim as you are should wear shorter turnups or no turnups at all?
Turn ups do tend to shorten the figure, and as a small man you might not want that, yes. Up to you though.
More detail here.
Veramente bello, e proprio ben fatto !
Wool or cotton CT ?
Wool
Nice suit although the finishings are too obvious from me.
Just checking: this twill is cotton not wool isn’t it?
White shirt: blue not ok? Does the shirt colour have to be lighter than the suit?
No, it’s wool…
A shirt doesn’t always have to be lighter that the jacket, but it generally will be.
Another beautiful bespoke suit. How many is that now? There must be a book in the works.
I try not to think about how many suits it is…
These shots were taken for Men’s Precious magazine, but we will likely make a book out of the Tailor Style series of posts. A few readers have asked about it.
If you ever find you have too many, I might be able to help… Just saying
Simon
Slightly related topic. Have you come across Bedford cord? If so, where would you put in on the formality scale? It’s part of the HS Dakota bunch along with cavalry twill.
Yes – and we discuss it briefly in the weaves and designs post.
I’d put it similar to cavalry twill, perhaps a touch more casual. But I’d always prefer normal cord or cav twill
Why would you go with normal cord or cavalry twill over Bedford cord? Is it just a personal preference?
The texture of Bedford cord just doesn’t appeal to me much – an odd mix. Personal though, yes
Could jeans be made with woollen cavalry twill?
Not really. Depends how you define jeans (weave, dye, style etc) but these would basically end being indigo-coloured twill wool trousers, unless you used a pretty coarse wool, and even then it wouldn’t really look like cotton
Hello Simon,
Travellers Club? A good setting. And raising the bar for the members. I hope I see you there.
Not a member I’m afraid, though my father used to be.
The Travellers Club looks very tatty these days. I thought the portrait of General Roberts (I think it is he) implied the Cavalry and Guards?
What a wonderful suit.
Thank you for explaining the different materials, styles and finishing of the suits.
Since you actually wear them you undoubtful have the best expertise and credibility in your reviews.
I like how sharp this suit is.
One question: does the suit have a neapolitan-style shoulder? From the overhead shot, it looks like there’s plenty of shirring in the sleeve-attachment. But in the long shots, I get the sense there’s a fair bit of wadding in the sleeve head, perhaps more in the front than the top. But those are long shots and what I’m seeing may be distortions from movement.
Yes, in that it has a spalla camicia shoulder (shoulder cloth folded back under). Yes, it has fullness kept at the top of the shoulder (causing those ripples). But yes, it also has some wadding in the sleeve head, which most Neapolitans don’t. (Though some do, eg Pirozzi normally does).
Interesting addition. It looks to be beautifully finished with a more useable hue than the Vergallo. Great close-ups of the detail work – it would be good to see more of these in future articles. The trousers look particularly sharp with a beautiful drape – how do they fit? One query Simon, it looks to be a little full in the waist (you mention it was formerly a little boxy) – if so how is the fit through the back now? Overall I like the clean look and the cloth has a sleek ‘go anywhere’ finish. I hope it will give good service and perhaps become a favourite. Massimo’s prices also seem fair, especially given the level of finishing.
Yes, it could still be a little.more fitted in the waist
Excellent suit Simon.Nice to see variation on a suit theme….patch pockets and Neapolitan shoulder.
As you say you have countless suits,shoes etc but that’s understandable given the nature of this blog.So what follows is not a criticism of you!
For my part I have always resisted the temptation to constantly commission more and more suits,shoes,vintage watches,purchase ostentatious cars…the list goes on and on…because I think it’s just not very stylish. Other people would just think I was showing-off …flaunting wealth in the face of my fellow man and woman.Not at all cool.Be interesting to hear what you and others think.
I generally agree Tom – I’m not a good example to follow, as a large part of my buying and wearing clothes is to write about them – for professional reasons, basically
I take it that you enjoy the word in print more than a regular Vlog say on YouTube about menswear?
Personally, yes I do. I like to write, edit and craft something in text. We do do videos as well, but working video to that level is much harder – works better as more conversational, diary style
Simon,
A side topic but related to the images, are your socks over the calf and where do you purchase them from?
Thanks,
Stephen
Yes, I always wear over the calf with smart outfits – these are from Bresciani
Thanks Simon. When you say Bresciani, do you mean directly or via a retailer such as mes chaussettes rouges?
Directly – they were a gift when I visited the factory years ago. Sorry if that means they’re not currently available!
Dormeuil featured a cloth of the month recently that they describe as Whipcord but that is about 13-14 ounces . I had considered making a suit for my own use but till seeing this I have been reluctant. I’m not a fan of so much detail but overall I think the wall suit is beautiful.
Simon….As usual a wonderful story that leads to a desire for more detail..
I looked up the definition of “cavalry twill” and it stated that the fabric could be either cotton or wool…unless I skipped over it, I did not catch what you suit is made of…
On the jacket length issue, and the mention of your thumb’s joint as being a key marker..
What are the rules?
Do they always apply?
Which hand/side? – virtually everyone has arms of differing lengths.
I may have to throw everything out and start again…or at least spend a lot of money with my tailor to rectify things..
Yes, it can be either, but is wool here (see comments above)
The second thumb joint is one good indicator, but also covering the seat, and being half the length of the suit. None of them are hard rules
Cavalry twill has always been one of my favourite cloths and this is a beautiful suit. The drape of the jacket is elegant and the line of the trousers elegant. My only criticism would be what appears to be a “spalla camici” shoulder which I believe is totally out of keeping with the nature of the cloth. A slightly roped smooth shoulder would be much more in keeping with the rest of the suit. The suit reminds me very much of one in olive cavalry twill I had made back in the 60’s.
Tom raises the issue of superfluous commissions I agree but totally understand the thesis for PS. As such I’d love to read an article on the basis of ‘a slimmed down PS wardrobe’ (seen as a companion piece for the suit series?) with 6-8 of the suits that you wear frequently or are most applicable for types of wear (business, formal, warm weather etc.).
Nice idea. We’re publishing another in the ‘capsule collection’ series today, on shirts. Could maybe be part of that?
Yes, I think that would be a popular post and useful for many – for me certainly. Your ability and willingness to try so many is inspiring but is not within reach for everyone; and sometimes the number of variations we’ve seen through you can blend together.
I at least would love a capsule suit collection for two reasons 1) your choices, and 2) your reasons for why this suit vs that similar suit.
Nice suit. The turn-ups seem quite wide, though granted it is down to personal style. Generally, what is the status of turn-ups on suits these days? I rarely see them now, really only on suits worn by older men or stylish younger folk.
Yes, they’ve become more fashionable recently, and personally I like them (something you can always take off later on, too). They’re also more common on Italian suits.
The width is 5cm/2 inches, which is pretty much what I always have
Hi Simon – nicely done. Regarding the trousers, are they flat front? Could not tell from the photos. Am I detecting a trend in the width of the cuff?
Yes, flat front.
On the cuff, these are 2 inches which is the same as pretty much all my other suits/trousers – the Chittleborough was a bit of an exception
Good observation by Peter, this colth is not a cavalry twill, but a whip cord ( it may be in defence a cavarly twill in Italy, but not a British Cavalary twill)
On a personal note, worn with a white shirt, is a fashion faux par ! Needs to be cream, ercu ? Useful suit as could be worn as single jacket, with flannels/denim/ fine weight corduroy.
Simon
You are so right – cavalry twill in that weight drapes so beautifully as trousers and, never crease. I have a pair and they are my favourite trousers. Based on this success i had a lighter twill pair made once and it was a disaster – they just crease!
The interesting thing here is the use of the twill as a suit which is something i would never have considered.
For those interested in other cloth for suits, Die Workwear blog today has a wonderful article on the various options for more casual suiting material and, is worth reading.
Great suit and colour by the way
Bradley
Simon,
I am curious about the lining. I assume it is fully lined, just from looking at the pictures? Any particular reason for that ? I made the assumption is was seasonal related or perhaps a recommendation from Pasinato.
Overall I am very impressed with the suit to the point I have sent an email to Massimo to discuss a commission.
The fabric is a great choice. The texture looks excellent and the tone is perfect for a light coloured suit; as you say grey with a hint of brown, which must make it very versatile. Additionally the weight gives it great shape. As I do more research I am starting to realise that fabrics with a weight of 12oz + just look better.
I personally would have never selected this fabric from a swatch but seeing it in suit form just goes to show that you need to have a little imagination. Well done.
Stephen
Thanks Stephen, and yes it’s lined. I would always do so unless it was a summer piece and breathability was a concern
Simon, Stephen touches on an interesting topic. I am thinking of getting a tweed from an Italian maker, which I want to be quite casual (ie worn with jeans or chinos, maybe even paired with trainers) do you think I should go lined or unlined? I imagine unlined can have a more casual look, but I terms of practicality I feel a tweed may not be smooth enough to glide over a shirt etc and also I imagine that a lined jacket lasts longer. Would be interesting to hear your comments. Nick
I wouldn’t worry about the casualness of going unlined. Unless the lining is bright it won’t really be noticed – concentrate on the practical side of the lining and leave the material and cut to make it casual
Simon,
Do you know when Ciardi are next in London? I’m messaged them twice but they don’t reply…
Many thankd
No, sorry Len. I do tell tailors they need to be regular, consistent, and good with communications, but it’s not how they’re used to working a lot of the time
Ok, fair enough, thanks for following up.
Plenty of other good tailors around if they’re not interested!
Simon,
Have you considered organising a trunk show with Massimo in London?
I really like this style of suit – some structure but softer than the English cut. A generous lapel and some room. Can’t stand a “fitted” (read that as tight) suit.
Stephen
Not currently Stephen, no. I’ll certainly let everyone know if that comes up though
Dear Simon,
I really like this suit and the way the jacket turned out. The price of sartoria pasinato is quite similar to saman amel, how do they compare?
Yours,
Nick
Pasinato is better made, being bespoke and therefore involving more handwork and a bespoke pattern. But style-wise and in terms of access, Saman Amel is better
Why do you think Saman Amel is better on style? Thanks.
Style is obviously quite personal, but they definitely have a sense of style – an awareness of it, and a real expression of it in their clothes. If you ask them about style, for example, they will reply at length about what they like and why. Most tailors will not
I agree with everything you’ve said here, but this suit by Pasinato doesn’t strike me as unstylish. Quite the contrary, it looks like a very balanced, contemporary style.
Simon,
Would you consider this suit example typical of the Pasinato house style? I only ask as northern Italians typically do not use a spalla camicia,
How does this commission differ to Massimo’s “normal” style?
Stephen
It is a standard style for him, yes, but he does do a few – as discussed briefly in my previous article on him
For those who are interested I am in London next weekend.
Info:
https://www.permanentstyle.com/event/sartoria-pasinato-london/
Reservation:
http://www.pasinato.it/trunk-show_HK/
Hi Simon. Would the house style of Sartoria Pasinato be good/soft enough for a casual suit like corduroy? Aside from the house style they can also do a more Neapolitan style?
Yes, I think it would work well. They can do a Neapolitan style, but remember what you’re buying is there version of it – if you want an actual Neapolitan cut, best to go to a Neapolitan. (That doesn’t mean it’s better or worse, just always going to be slightly different)
Hi Simon,
Would be great if you could do a piece comparing the regional differences of Italian cuts e.g. Florence, Milan, Naples etc. I know you have covered these items separately but it often hard to notice differences from pictures if they are not specifically pointed out.
In this context how would you describe Pasinato’s style? North Italian? Is it similar to Milan or Florence?
I think if you compare the Suit Breakdown pieces we’ve done on Caraceni, Liverano and Solito then that’s the best comparison you’re going to get. Another post would just be compressing those really. They all go through the same points on each jacket deliberately, to make the comparison easier.
With Pasinato, the issue is more that there is less of a local tradition and less of a house style. More similar to southern Italian style, but with a lot of variation.
Simon,
How would you compare Vergallo vs Pasinato? Or in other words – which one would be safer choise for a first bespoke to a muscular built, 6feet person?
Thanks
I think these would be very similar. I might go for Vergallo just because they come to London more often and are more established here
During these months I was in London very frequently. At least every 3 months. I’m in London this weekend too.
Thank you Massimo
Very impressive suit Massimo! What fabric mills do you primarily work with?
This is a good looking suit. But I think it is a covert cloth rather than a cavalry twill.
I think the 584 cloths from Vitale Barberis Canonico are covert cloth.
For example:
https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com/fabrics/584-101-76/
https://www.drapersitaly.com/en/fabrics/fabrics-for-suits/7/wool-covert-code-no.-6734l
I think you’re right actually, good point. A cavalry will would have a double rib. I’ll correct it
Beautiful suit and interesting color. What color would you describe this? Hard to tell from the monitor, but it looks like a cross between olive, grey, and tan. Or perhaps a cross between a grey and a brown?
Yeah I’d say a light grey, but a warm grey
The color and texture of the fabric and the cut of the suit are all great. Thanks for posting this. 2200 Euros starting seems extremely reasonable for full bespoke. I’ve come to expect it at no less than $4000. I’m still new to the bespoke world and still am trying to get a grasp on what goes into the pricing. Do Italian makers tend to charge less in nominal terms than British ones? If you have general guidance on this, or can link an article where you’ve discussed this if you have, I’d be grateful. Thanks!
It’s more that smaller tailors in regional cities with lower rents charge more. Sometimes the level of work is not as high, but certainly not always.
That’s the same in Italy and in the UK, it’s just that there are more of them in Italy
Assume there’s a typo and the tailors with lower rents charge less.
Yes, sorry
Simon, this suit looks really good on you. You mentioned that the shoulder is extended. Is it just a slight extension I hope? I trust that the length of the jacket and width of the lapel can be changed based on customer request?
Yes and yes
Hi,
Do you know if Massimo is still travelling to London? I have been trying to get in touch but with little success…
No Nick, I don’t know if Massimo is still travelling, I haven’t spoken to him for a while sorry
Hello, I will be in London on February 17th. Regards
Hi Simon,
Do you think CT would work for an odd jacket?
Thanks
No, not really. Too sharp and dense
Hi Simon,
I have a lovely pair of navy cavalry twill trousers made out of a heavyweight Fox cloth – which I think is identical to your ecru pair in all manners except colour.
Could I ask what you think about commissioning a jacket in that particular cloth in order to have a suit please? And do you think it would be suitable for a professional environment (albeit one where most people don’t where suits anyway unless they’re meetings clients).
Thanks as always! I love this suit and the series of the photos. The socks are awesome!
Cheers!
I’m pleased that’s worked out for you so well.
I don’t think it would be great for a suit, personally. It would be unusual in texture and very heavy. Perhaps if you didn’t work in that professional environment, but as you do I’d suggest sticking to something more normal.
Concur – nice socks. May I know if a socks garter is necessary at all for over the calf socks?
No, not at all
Hi Simon,
I seem to be impressed with your commission with Pasinato as from your review it seems the finished product as exceeded your expectations. I am contemplating on having a bespoke suit or blazer with either Pasinato or Solito. On your opinion, which one would you opt for as a first time and in terms of quality and finishing. In addition, which one provides a wider fabric selection.
Kind regards
Rupesh
Hi Rupesh,
I’d say Pasinato was slightly better on finishing, and they both have the same fabric selection pretty much.
However, I’d pick on style. Pasinato is its own style, while Solito is definite Nepaolitan. If you want Nepaolitan style, then go for them
Simon I was thinking of having a cavalry twill suit made in navy perhaps in the h&s Dakota bunch. Do you think this would wear very formal (as it holds a crease) or more casual (as it has those ridges in the cloth)? Would it break up into separates namely would I be able to wear the jacket with grey cavalry twill trousers I already have too? This second question I ask as I do need a suit (although rarely) but like wearing separate jackets and trousers rest of the time. If not cavalry twill then does another cloth work as a suit and seperates better? Appreciate your expert opinion on the matter Simon)
Hi,
It would look quite smart, but not as smart as a normal worsted suit. Closer to a business suit than to anything casual though.
And no, it would not break up well. The jacket would be too smart to be worn as a blazer probably.
This so-called three-way suit is very hard to get right and I would be wary of pursuing it. The only materials I think it’s easy in are linen and corduroy.
Hi Simon, which VBC book is this cavalry twill from?
I’ll check – you’re better off asking Drapers though, as they are the ones likely to carry the cut lengths
You should ask directly to Drapers which is VBC retail seller.
My tailorshop is also a VBC selected retail sellers.
I had at least one Savile Row tailor I emailed recently suggesting the Dakota fabrics like Whipcords would make good and very durable jacket & trouser separates and there are some beautiful colours in that bunch. I would be looking at the 12 & 13ozs in greys for the trousers and the blues for a jacket as an alternative to a first bespoke suit in single breasted and being versatile at the same time which I may consider.
Hi Lindsay,
Everyone has their own style of course, and I don’t know who the tailor is. But I wouldn’t recommend those cloths for a separate jacket. And I’d think about whether you want to dress like the tailor in question before taking their advice on style.
Sorry Simon. I should have clarified who the tailor was.
It was from Andrew Ramroop of Maurice Sedwell who recommended H&S Dakota whipcord due to being a tightly woven pure wool with superb wearing qualities.
Probably Cavalry Twill would be similar but I could imagine these two types of fabric being quite warm in the Summer months.
Thanks
Lindsay
No worries Lindsay.
That cloth would certainly be very hardy, and have a nice line, but it would be too dense and sharp for a separate jacket, in my opinion. It’s woven for a suit or trouser, not for an odd jacket.
Cheers
Actually I an considering separates as an alternative to a suit in dark blue/navy for a jacket and grey for the trousers in hard wearing & durable cloth in 12-13oz cloth which allows for versatility. particularly if I choose a single brested jacket which could be teamed up with knitwear from say the A & S habidashery.
Following the very interesting suggestion from Sedwells, I looked at my own Dakota Bunch which I actually have and chose nos. 9518509 with 9518505 and also 9518508 with 9518506 in 13oz whipcord.
There it is…. I’ll gladly share these suggestions!!
Lindsay
Is cavalry twill good for a blazer?
Not usually, no. Better for suits and trousers
Nice fit and looks like good finishing. How would you compare it in terms of fit, style and finishing with Sartoria Vergallo which is similarly northern italian in hte same price bracket?
Also – how does the finishing and fit compares to smaller Neapolitan tailor like Solito?
thanks
Better than Solito, but similar in many ways to Vergallo. Similar fit and finishing, maybe a touch sharper in style
Hi Simon, do you still own this suit? if so do you have any further thoughts on it, how has it worn etc…? i have been contemplating a visit to Pasinato and im especially interested to know about his style and if you continued to like it
I do like the style – the fabric was perhaps a mistake, but for his price I’d still recommend Pasinato
thanks.
His prices have increased from your article now around 2900 EUR for suit + fabric
OK thanks, good to know
I’ve been having a great time diving through your amazing back catalogue in search of further guidance for non-corporate suiting! Have your feelings about twill/covert suits changed at all? They look to me like great options for a more casual but still sharp suit without the business association
I think they probably have evolved a bit – I found I didn’t wear this suit that much, and eventually ended up giving it away. I think the sharpness of cavalry twill just made it seem a bit too smart. I assume you’ve seen the post on five casual suits, here?
Yes, you kindly directed my attention to it before. My challenge is that I don’t like the cultural associations of cord nor the rumpledness of cotton, and linen would get relatively scarce use in London. Which leaves tweed – and Thornproof or similar is my current lead candidate. But I saw this suit and your db covert one and liked the sharpness yet distinct non-corporate feel. Interesting to hear you didn’t find it particularly useful though.
Yes, I think it would have been better in a darker colour, like a charcoal, but then that also makes it a little more corporate perhaps
Hey Simon. So if I understood you correctly Cavalry Twill and Covert are not the durable and casual cloths for modern tailoring but instead rather rural/traditional in brown/green or rather corporate/smart in navy/charcoal?!
You would probably rate flannel as more verstatile, correct (for instance wearable with knitwear on top or knit/wool ties)? How about a 14 oz Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Flannel for durability, i.e. riding a bicycle? Would that be as sturdy/hard wearing as a Cavalry Twill/Covert?
Yes I would say flannel would be more versatile, certainly. It wouldn’t be as touch as cavalry twill/covert though, I wouldn’t ride a bike in it (though I wouldn’t do so regularly or with any particular exertion in cav twill either)
Lycra. We need an article on men in Lycra!
You mean for city cycling
Well, got to look smart if it’s PS
Sorry to chime in here but as a ‘Brompton’ commuter (I hope that translates to an international audience), I’d love an article on decent clothes that can be cycled in. It’s all too easy to default to jeans which is a shame but then, I’m really reluctant to wear good clothes when chain oil is at hand. I fully appreciate this is a first-world problem!