Reader Profile: Jeff

April 14th 2023

Jeff Hilliard is Director of Limited Editions at Hodinkee, the watch magazine/empire in New York. But he used to work at The Armoury, until 2017, and then did two years at Mr Porter. So while not strictly working in menswear today, he is certainly m...

Reader Profile: Jeff

Match in comments:
Thank you for the answer. I wanted to ask this question as well after reading the article, but thankfully, Magnus already asked the question....

Style - WatchesApril 14th 2023

Black tops and tonal combinations under

September 5th 2022

In many ways, today's outfit is a natural extension of things we’ve been talking about recently. There was, back on August 12, our discussion about wearing all black , which has some bearing here. The outfit is not all black, of course, but i...

Black tops and tonal combinations under

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Yes on both!...

ShirtsSeptember 5th 2022

How to wear a cream jacket

June 24th 2020

A cream jacket is more useful than you might think. Certainly, I’ve found myself using this one from Jean-Manuel Moreau more than I expected since I received it earlier in the year. This post describes, and illustrates, three ways I&am...

How to wear a cream jacket

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Ha! Fingers crossed. Mid-grey definitely...

StyleJune 24th 2020

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

June 8th 2020

*Update: Although a couple of sizes have sold out, several customers have bought two jackets in order to compare sizes, and will be returning one. So if your size is sold out, do email [email protected] to receive an alert when it comes bac...

Introducing: The (brown) reversible Valstarino

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Hi Varun I’m afraid this model is no longer sold. Have a look at our updated jacket here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/02/introducing-the-new-reversible-suede-bomber.html Our best advice is to measure a jacket y...

Casual clothing - CoatsJune 8th 2020

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

January 21st 2019

  In recent years I’ve done an increasing amount of personal consultancy, meeting readers in person to answer their questions rather than just here on the website. I don’t really advertise it because I don’t have much capac...

Two reader stories: Starting and building a wardrobe

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I would be confident enough to trust in Luca making a more formal shirt suitable for a bow tie. What attracts me to Luca is that there are no minimum number of shirts for a first bespoke commission with him. T&A, if ...

January 21st 2019

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

June 11th 2018

I’ve always liked indigo in tailoring, and find navy a good partner for it. The deep indigo of this linen shirt from D’Avino, for example, is significantly quietened by the navy blazer over the top, and makes that top half a story...

Indigo, navy and natural: A summer combination

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Because it gets dirty easily...

Glasses and jewellery - ShirtsJune 11th 2018

Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to d...

January 31st 2018

Best-Dressed Man of the Year: Ethan Newton Runners up: Andreas Weinas Yukio Akamine Noboru Kakuta Bruce Boyer   Our Best-Dressed Man of the Year is Ethan Newton, founder of Bryceland’s Co – the store in Tokyo and now in Hong...

Best-dressed man 2018: Ethan Newton (or, how to d...

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Hi Christopher, Might I suggest Brooks Brothers or J. Press, or O'Connell's in Buffalo, NY? Brooks Brothers sells shirts off the rack that would definitely fit you, also suits and trousers in yr sizes. It is my understan...

StyleJanuary 31st 2018

The Ambrosi workshop, Naples

September 18th 2017

I think there is a tendency to view my reviews of artisans as binary - either ‘good’ or ‘bad’. Perhaps because there are just so few bad reviews of luxury products. But the reality is no view is straightforward. Some tailors ...

The Ambrosi workshop, Naples

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As far as I know there still is, yes. Have you not tried a Google search?...

TrousersSeptember 18th 2017

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

July 12th 2017

Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...

Naples: A sartorial shopping guide

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Probably not, but worth asking the maker if they can perhaps prepare a fitting for you in that time, so you can be fitted and have the finished shirt sent to you...

July 12th 2017

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to...

July 10th 2017

This summer there were several launch events at Pitti Uomo. Kenji opened up in Florence again, with his new Tie Your Tie store (small but lovely); Benedikt had his Shibumi showroom with new tailoring; it was effectively the launch of Neapolitan trou...

Sartoria Vestrucci launches: Bespoke and ready-to...

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In a week or two, just waiting on photos...

SuitsJuly 10th 2017

Wearing black (in a sports jacket)

June 26th 2017

I recently remembered these shots we took last year in Japan - it was September, but Tokyo was hot and humid, as Europe has been in recent weeks. Although wool, the checked jacket is 9 ounces and half lined, wearing pretty cool. It was a useful piec...

Wearing black (in a sports jacket)

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Sharp sport coat! I don’t have the same reservations about black that many seem to have. To me, a very dark navy or grey is virtually indistinguishable in almost all lighting. I have a black hopsack sport coat and two ...

Jackets - StyleJune 26th 2017

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

May 12th 2017

Shades of tobacco and tan are one of the loveliest things to wear in the Summer. As the weather warms up, I've put together three outfits here - all somewhere in the 5 to 7 formality range - that illustrate this. They are displayed on my wonderf...

Summer colours: Tobacco and tan

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That bunch is no longer current I'm afraid (as with pretty much all cloths older than 2 or 3 years). Most still carry a natural or biscuit-coloured version however...

Casual clothing - DenimMay 12th 2017

Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers

April 28th 2017

Last year, while in Japan at Bryceland's, Salvatore Ambrosi offered me two pairs of his new ready-to-wear trousers to try. Regular readers will remember that the bespoke trousers I had from Ambrosi the previous year suffered from consistency issues....

Ambrosi ready-to-wear trousers

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Yes it should be able to be corrected by letting out the hips a little, but it’s hard to give concrete advice remotely...

TrousersApril 28th 2017

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...

November 4th 2016

I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...

Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...

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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....

Bags - Casual clothingNovember 4th 2016

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

February 29th 2016

I began the process of having trousers made by Salva (-tore Ambrosi) just over a year ago. Since then I’ve had two pairs made – in fresco and flannel – and while the quality of the product has been good, the process hasn&...

Salvatore Ambrosi trousers – review

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No, and most of mine from him do have side adjustors...

Shoes - TrousersFebruary 29th 2016

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers – in London

July 10th 2015

UPDATE : A few people have asked for contact details to make appointments. The event is being hosted by The Armoury – it’s [email protected] and [email protected]. (Zach is taking appointments and measurements for Sai...

Salvatore Ambrosi bespoke trousers – in London

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Ambrosi can do a good mid-rise too, yes...

TrousersJuly 10th 2015

Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...

June 17th 2015

I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wears these things together, ...

Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...

Match in comments:
How true. Think what you want about the clothes — for me they are more an exercise in fashion rather than style — that said, all is ruined by the phenomena of 'the dodgy barnett '. All of us that are lucky enough to ...

Jackets - June 17th 2015

Reader question: belts with suits

March 29th 2013

Simon I have been thinking lately about removing the belt loops from some of my bespoke suit trousers. I was previously convinced that I wanted to remove the belt loops, but now I’m confused after discussing it with my Neapolitan tailor. Sh...

Reader question: belts with suits

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Regarding suit jackets, I’ll be trying my current Steed Jacket, currently paired with trousers and braces/side-adjusters, with another pair of “belted”and indeed very much cheaper RTW grey trousers to check the loo...

Belts and wallets - Reader questionsMarch 29th 2013