Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
The article ‘Which office are you?’ in 2016 was one of the most popular we have ever done on PS. I think largely because it showed clearly how outfits could be adjusted to different levels of formality, at a time when office attire was a...
Which office are you? A cold, current 2024 update
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It depends how dark they are and how faded the jeans are - have a look yourself and see what you think perhaps...
A vintage shopping day in New York
Recently myself, photographer Alex Natt and Carl and Oliver from Rubato (above) spent a day vintage shopping in New York. It was a lot of fun, and also I think interesting for those that are fairly new to vintage, or can find the process frustrating...
A vintage shopping day in New York
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Absolutely. Hopefully going back next week when I'm in NY for our book event at The Armoury...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
My favourite jeans largely come from brands that make in Japan, using Japanese denim, but that tweak the fit to make it their own. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that they’re also classic-menswear brands, who make or at least a...
My favourite jeans: Bryceland’s, Rubato, Blackhor...
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The reason to wear them for a while before washing is to get more fades - in the wrinkles etc. If you care about that, then fold them up for a while, yes. If you don't, then don't. If they say 40 then I'm sure it's fine,...
Wearing black shoes with jeans
This is something I’ve had questions about recently - I assume because fashion generally has taken a turn towards black and, combined with the general casualisation going, black shoes and jeans have become a more common styling choice. So the ...
Wearing black shoes with jeans
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It definitely could work. Perhaps a little bit harder than with a brown-suede shoe, but as long as being sockless looks natural (ie warm weather, casual clothing/tailoring) and the shoe isn't too formal either, it should...
Pop-up shops for 2024 – in London and New York
I'm pleased to say the dates are fixed for two pop-ups this year - in London next month and then in New York in October. In three weeks we will be back on Savile Row, kindly hosted by New & Lingwood in their space at No.19. This worked well ...
Pop-up shops for 2024 – in London and New York
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Sounds fantastic! Thank you Simon, I look forward to meeting you this year....
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. ...
Layering up for travel: Shawls, cardigans and vests
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They're a very dark brown, but yes look pretty much black. Perhaps a very dark brown is nicer in that it has a little depth. Plain black can look a little cheap or plasticky...
Journal article on my children
I wrote a little piece for the Rubato journal this weekend, about how good my children's instinct is for clothing. They nearly always give a good steer, I think because they're both very observant and know me very well. You can read it here. The coa...
Journal article on my children
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My 9 .year old son has been saying for years "can I have that when I am older?" almost on a weekly basis. It could be something that was outwardly cool in his eyes (that may have made me look younger) or something that i...
Eight outfits I liked at Pitti – and why
Pitti Uomo this year felt busier than last, but that was a little deceptive - two of the big buildings were still closed for lack of exhibitors, and more squeezed into the main pavilion. The show’s future still feels a little uncertain. My ti...
Eight outfits I liked at Pitti – and why
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🙏...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
by Philipp Fröhlich Between 1966 and 1970, Barnett Newman, a prominent figure in abstract expressionism, painted four versions of a painting he called ‘Who's Afraid of Red, Yellow and Blue’ (above). I assume Newman foresaw the intim...
What colour theory can teach you about clothing
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My rule is akin to the doctors' oath to "first do no harm". In other words, with an outfit, avoid major blunders and you have done 90% of what's needed. If a tie is dramatic in pattern, the shirt and jacket must be subdu...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
This jacket from Ferdinando Caraceni has become one of my real favourites in the past couple of years, and I think it’s worth exploring why. It says something about where tailoring is today, at least for me. It was made in 2021 by Nicoletta C...
Why I love my Ferdinando Caraceni blazer
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Beautiful jacket Simon...and what a colour! The wonderfully dark navy prompts a question I have struggled with recently. A few months ago I had a MTM suit from Sexton, with which they did a great job. I wanted a navy so ...
Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!
Permanent Style reader, this is not for you. This is intended for your wife/husband/partner/child/dog, in an attempt to help source a Christmas present for someone who, let’s face it, is very fussy in general but particularly about clothing. ...
Christmas Gift List 2023: Do not read!
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I'd go off the shoes primarily, and I think both suede or leather would be fine, I don't think leather would be too smart...
The weekend gilet or vest
As colder weather has arrived recently, there have been a few questions from readers about gilets or vests. It’s not a category we’ve covered in much detail, so Alex and I took a bunch to the studio last week and had a play with a few ou...
The weekend gilet or vest
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I like them under a coat in winter since there is then at times no need for a jumper. Admittedly that means wearing a wool gilet rather than something bulky. The extra freedom of movement for the arms is most pleasant at...
Reader profile: Sebastian
Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar...
Reader profile: Sebastian
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Saman Amel does. P Johnson for some things...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
I like wearing suits. Not only do I have a lot that I like wearing, but I continue to commission them – not as much as sports jackets, certainly, but consistently. It can be an issue knowing how to wear them without a tie though. I know I have...
Casual suits with collared knits: A new default
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The Faloni ones don't, I've tried them, and I don't know about the Saman ones but I seem to recall they were better but still not great. It's a problem we tried to solve for a reason unfortunately. The only other ones I'...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people - more, perhaps, than London. There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the kn...
Dressed-up New Yorkers: The view from the pop-up
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That's so lovely to hear, thank you Robert...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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Personally I did what you're thinking, Kristian--I ordered a reddish/brown half lining for my new solaro suit. But I live in Italy and am a bit more at ease with (relatively) showy tailored clothing. I would not however ...
We’re coming back to New York (and bringing...
The pop-up shop we did last year with Rubato and Taillour went really well, so we're coming back to New York in October, with the addition shoemaker Seiji McCarthy (shoes below). This time we'll be on Christopher Street, with J Mueser kindly letting...
We’re coming back to New York (and bringing...
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Thank you Robert, it was lovely seeing you too...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
A few weeks ago, a reader asked my opinion on a pair of suede boots that were clearly a copy of the popular Open Walk from Loro Piana . That soft, unlaced chukka has become so widespread in a few short years that some don’t even recognise them...
Should you buy a copy? What’s the harm?
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Well I'd argue there's another point on top of this one to make. Quality. Recently, my wife needed a pair of new shoes. She previously had both a pair of Clark's, and a pair of "More expansive brand" (to respect anonymit...
If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...
I’ve had a few requests over the years to do one of these, our wardrobe-building guides , about knitwear. One of the challenges of doing so is that very little is right or wrong, and a lot is personal. Still, there are some help...
If you only owned five pieces of knitwear: A caps...
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The biggest thing with shetland is that it's just more unusual, being so fuzzy. It's also a little less smart. But, if it's a style you like there's no reason you couldn't wear a lot of them and they do well for you. If ...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
On Permanent Style we’ve always talked about dressing with subtle elegance - clothing that makes the wearer appear simply well dressed. This is still the style I get most pleasure from. It's a matter of good fit, quality materials, and tastefu...
Kind of showy: All black jacket and jeans
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Thank you Alex...
Swimming shorts: Simple, tasteful, flattering
I haven’t written about swimming shorts for a long time. Other than a passing reference on our regular ‘holiday snaps’ articles , it’s been over a decade since they were covered on PS. Even back then, it was a pretty short ar...
Swimming shorts: Simple, tasteful, flattering
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I dont think I've ever had any that sit at the natural waist, no. Sounds like those ones are really mid-rise and being pulled up too high....
The Permanent Style Anniversary dinner
Last November marked 15 years since the founding of Permanent Style. To celebrate the occasion, we planned two things: a personal dinner with friends in Florence and a more public event in the pop-up shop on Savile Row. The public event, to which al...
The Permanent Style Anniversary dinner
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Thank you both!...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen has been covered on PS before - it was reviewed by contributor Tony Sylvester in November last year. But seeing that jacket in person made me reconsider the style, and then when Christophe of Chato Lufsen - who ma...
The Bores jacket: My Fox version
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Thank you Alex...
Video: Carl and Oliver of Rubato, in conversation
One of the things I enjoy about this series is the way each conversation drifts onto grander topics. Even though many of the people are similar, and the questions don’t vary too much, we always end up discussing abstract, interesting ideas. W...
Video: Carl and Oliver of Rubato, in conversation
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I recently picked up the Rubato fireman’s jacket. Leaving a review here, since Google brought me here when I was looking for opinions. I was thinking about the jacket for months and had the good luck of trying Carl’s...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
Wearing a sweater over the shoulders has a lot of negative connotations. But if you can get away with it - because of your style, of where you are, or just because of your personality - it’s incredibly practical. This suit I wore at Pitti earl...
The practicality of a sweater over the shoulders
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Understood Rob. I personally find it doesn't really fall off, but then it depends what I'm doing that day - I'm just walking around town and chatting, not playing with the kids. And, if I tie the sleeves I don't find the...
