Over the past few months I’ve been trying out a pair of RM Williams boots, driven by the fact I know so many people who swear by them, and because it’s nice to celebrate a craft company in a different part of the world such as Australia.
I’ve found them (the Comfort Craftsman) just as comfortable as everyone said, and liked the style more than I thought I would. I would never normally wear a square-toed boot, but the shape is very subtle, and actually more elegant than the round-toed options.
The quality of the boot, however, is not really on a par with the other makers we cover. There are plastic heel and toe stiffeners, a fibreglass shank, and the other materials are not the same quality as, for example, Crockett & Jones.
The fact the boots have no seam on the side is part of their lore: it was something the founder introduced to reduce irritation on the foot. But of course, the reason high-end boots have seams is that they’re using smaller skins than RM Williams - it’s much easier not to have seams when you’re working with a yearling animal or older. Plus I’ve never found those seams irritating on my other boots.
Still, I can certainly see the appeal of RM Williams now, and their attitude to repair and care is admirable. They have become more expensive in recent years, but price relative price heavily depends on where you are in the world - a comparative UK or US maker is much more expensive outside those countries.
The boot I tried was the Comfort Craftsman in dark-brown suede. It was a UK size 9, which is pretty much my regular boot size, and an Australian G width, which seemed comparable to the E I normally wear in the UK, though it’s meant to be a little narrower.
Most UK stockists such as Trunk have the G width, though RMW itself also offers a wider, H width. Kudos to RMW for offering two widths in the UK as standard, and a big range of sizes at least in Australia.
I chose dark-brown suede because it’s the material I find the most versatile, but you’ll also notice quality difference less in suede, usually, than in leather. Certainly something like the yearling-leather RMW boot will not take polish or ever look as fine as a Northampton equivalent.
Of course, most people wearing RMW boots do not want to be as dressy as that fine, polished calf, but I’d still prefer the suede or perhaps even pull-up leather to the RMW yearling (below). Northampton shoes have probably spoilt me in that regard.
RM Williams boots are known for their comfort, and particularly the Comfort Craftsman with its padded insole. I can vouch for that, and that they required no breaking in.
It’s not the natural-feeling softness you’d have with a top-end calf leather lining, or the kind of support that would come from a last that gave you really good arch support (like the Alden modified last, on me) given it’s foam padding, but it’s still effective.
With a suede boot it’s these kinds of places where you notice the difference in quality of materials - and that goes for the rubber soles too, which are relatively thick and cumbersome.
I should emphasise again that when I say ‘relative’ I mean relative to the average brands we feature on PS, which are perhaps best typified by Crocketts in the UK and Alden in the US. So if that’s the benchmark, how does RM Williams compare on price?
RMW has certainly got more expensive since it was acquired by LVMH in 2016 (it’s currently owned by the Tattarang investment group). A pair of these boots in the UK will cost you £430, and Crocketts seems like a better buy (all else being equal) at £470 for its Chelsea 8 (below).
But, in Australia the Comfort Craftsman is A$649 (£355) and Crocketts are A$1295 (£710), which definitely pushes things in RM Williams’s favour.
In the end - like those that buy Alden in the UK - price and value aren’t the top priority for UK customers of RM Williams.
They buy for the look, because they like the brand, and because there is no obvious equivalent. The square-toed Craftsman really is surprisingly elegant for a casual boot, while the Gardener looks really nice for a very hard-wearing, round-toed, weather-proof boot.
RM Williams boots also last a long time because they have a good line in repairs. They reheel and resole as a matter of course, and will also replace the lining, tugs and elastic gussets - everything save the upper.
The factory in Adelaide usually does this work, although when I spoke to the team late last year, they were training a group to do resoles and reheels in the UK. The shipping cost to Adelaide and lead time (about three months) was becoming inefficient otherwise.
I really liked my boots, even though I wouldn’t actually wear them - and will find a good home among friends for my pair.
Thing is, for a suede boot I’d always go to a Northampton maker; even for a waxed boot my Govan from Edward Green are much nicer (and much more expensive). I’d wear Alden for a casual style, Viberg for a real workboot, even a roper boot for the style. RM Williams just doesn’t fill a gap I have in terms of style and value.
However, I’m glad I’ve tried the Craftsman for a good while, and understand the appeal.
I’ve got inside the head of the friend who wears a Gardener every day with wide-legged chinos, and the other who wears his Craftsman with his skinny jeans every single day to work. I shall try and convince my brother (who lives in Australia) that he should get a pair, because they will be good value and perfectly suit his lifestyle.
I’d recommend them to many people - just not myself.
Clothes shown: PS Reversible Suede jacket, Real McCoy's sweatshirt, Rubato jeans, PS watch cap
I bought a pair of waxy leather round toe, rubber sole, RMB boots around 1998/99 and did wear them a lot, they went back ‘down under’ once (2 years ago) for a resole/heel and gusset change (Gusset change? sound dirty) and they are going strong but I do have problems matching them with my wardrobe these days which is odd as my wardrobe has not really changed in style, could be my mind then. The boots however have waded in rivers, swam in the sea, been in every conceivable setting of towns, villages, deserts or countryside… (not jungle though) and performed/survived wonderfully in all locations. I love them, I always want them in my wardrobe but similar to you, I cant find a place for them in my daily dress. For the price I cant argue with the sturdiness and they really have been tested to the full. I do keep looking and lusting those Comfort Craftsman in that brown suede though….. they would be another pair of boots to look at and hardly wear.
If any readers are interested in R.M. Williams you should try to seek out the kangaroo leather pairs – it’s quite an unusual texture, holds up well over time and is remarkably soft – probably the most glove-like shoe leather I’ve found.
I can confirm that, I do have a second pair in Kangaroo laying dormant in UK but I do recall them being very comfy! In fact one set of my bike leathers are also kangaroo skin..
Simon, another great review again!
On a slightly different league, and my focus is a shoe, or maybe even a Chelsea boot, in suede for a rainy day, what would be your favourite?
If I were to revisit Gaziano & Girling, for say a MTO shoe (ideally) rather than boots in suede ,what would be an ideal all-rounder colour for suede?
What type of shoe, eg derby or Oxford?
Finally would you advocate a storm welt?
Just something smart, can be a tad casual, for a rainy day.
Thanks
Lindsay
I’d say dark brown suede definitely, Oxford v derby depends how smart you want to be mostly, and storm welt yes but only if the shoe is casual enough
It is a shame you won’t be keeping them yourself Simon I think they look great with the alphit you’re wearing – that’s a very nice look you’ve put together.
Thank you Ras. My EGs look just as nice fortunately
I completely agree about EG Simon. I would find it extremely difficult to look beyond them. The Lanark boot is the most comfortable, well made, aesthetically pleasing foot wear I have, topping a pair of G&G brogues into second place.
I have had two pairs:
I think the square toe look is spot on, looking elegant but unforced. (which is a very hard trick to pull off).
However, I have found they eventually lose fit, not an expert, but it feels as though the leather stretches over time, may because a walk a lot and weigh 100kg.
Neil
Dear Simon
An interesting article but I’m afraid I think you are missing the point here.
RM Williams as a brand is driven by its heritage; rugged, durable clothes and accessories made to a high standard and designed to last, but as the key word “outdoorsman” suggests, not designed with “fashion” in mind.
They are therefore made for a purpose, rather than to compete in the same market as Alden or C&J. Trying to connect these brands is, in my view, misleading. Subtle nuances around shank, cumbersome soles etc are meaningless.
Better really to “compare” RMW’s with cowboy boots than anything from Northampton.
Their growing popularity here is driven by what they are, rather than simply being an alternative to C&J. Anyone who appreciates them can spot a pair a mile off, but nobody would be able to look at some of the other makes you compare them to and say “aha! C&J!”
I’ve been wearing them for years; warm, dry, comfortable, incredibly durable and excellent value. By the way, your pricing is a bit off; £399 will get you the boots you are reviewing.
Thank you Mark.
I think, first off, the comparison is relevant to the extent readers are comparing them for urban use, which most are though certainly not all.
Second, most points about make would be the same if you compared RMW to a similarly expensive rugged boot like Viberg. Fineness of suede would not be a factor, but internal structure would be.
Third, I agree with you on the distinctiveness of the design. Though you get that with others too, particularly Alden, and it’s not always what everyone wants in a boot.
Thanks again for raising interesting points
Thanks Simon.
To be clear, my point on comparisons on make was that they are broadly redundant given that they would be trumped by durability and comfort by those who choose such a boot.
Equally, I’m not sure I get the suggestion that you would more likely compare RMWs to Viberg, the latter being a totally different style altogether (not least as they are laceups) and more similar in many respect to Pro Icons.
Hey Mark,
Well, the point is that some aspects of a better make are more comfortable and better lasting. For example, a leather heel cup rather than a plastic one that adapts to your heel shape.
The point about Viberg was not a style one, but that it is also a rugged boot (unlike the ones I mentioned in the article) and is made to a higher standard for the reasons I mention.
Thanks Simon for the great review of these iconic boots, it’s very interesting to hear your thoughts in the comparison with other makes and also how they would or wouldn’t fit into your personal style. I think Marks comment is valid, from what I see the RMW Craftsman is appealing to men here in Australia for its sense of traditional style, familiarity (and to some extent fitting in with the other blokes), ability for that single piece of leather to look better with age, and perhaps the yearling leather being more rugged than Northampton calf, has less need for find shoe keeping products, but instead can rub up well with some “Dubbin”. The comfort version is very easy to wear, but I also like the leather soles ones as they’re a bit thinner and mild nicely thru the inner sole. Aussie men buy these as a go-everywhere type of boot – not necessarily for bushwalking and farm work, but as their nice option for going into town. Pair of jeans or chinos, shirt/polo/tshirt and you’re ready to go.
Suede is a bit fringe to be honest, most would prefer either the chestnut brown or black, or maybe tan if you’re being fancy (or all three options as I have..!) You’re also right about the soles though, they for sure are a bit chunky, especially at the heel, I have bought a few alternative shoes since reading PS including C&J and EG and they are much more shapely in the sole and better for formal wear as in my job. RMs are just an easy boot to slip on that goes with everything though!
Thanks Jack, and agree on most of those points. You can still make an equally rugged boot to a higher standard, but I agree that’s not why most people buy this boot
*prefer the chesnut, black or tan normal leather, that is
Edward Green. Yes.
Period. End of story.
This is a very relevant article as I have tried on several brands of boots in the last 18 months. The fits were very different even though all were supposed to be 9Gs. The Chelsea 8 is the only G fit boot that C&J offers now. It was the only option for a smarter look. RMW also sells the Comfort Tambo in the extra wide X fit for £399. I may get them when resoling in the UK is available.
Those who want E or F fit naturally have more choice in Britain. Cheaney sells the Godfrey for £475 and the Godwin for an eye-watering £675. Tricker’s Lambourne Chelsea and Henry “Dealer” boots retail for £565! The Stephen Chelsea and Gigio jodhpur boots are only £345 on the Tricker’s Outlet website but sizes are limited. Those on a lower budget could consider Loake’s Dingley (£295) and Coppergate (£290).
Fortunately, Tricker’s Stephen was available in 6 fit and I got an additional 20% off in the outlet’s Black Friday promotion. I also bought two pairs of Tricker’s Grassmere boots, also 6 fit, for around £400 from other retailers. It certainly pays to shop around and search online!
https://thegoldenboot.co.uk/brands/rm-williams
These guys do full RM Williams resoles to original spec. Mine had to go back to Oz as they were old and made some odd way that can only be repaired down there.
Probably the brass screwed sole construction, given RM and William Lennon are I believe the only two companies with the machines now, as only five still exist.
I’ve had a pair of Lennons for almost five years and the soles are apparently indestructible as they have hardly any wear.
They are a heavy pair of boots !
yes, screw and brass were definitely words that came up when they told me my boots had to travel to the antipodeans for repair. Took time but they came back perfect.
The Australians’ know how to make a comfortable boot.My son has two pairs of Blunstone Chelsea boots which are possible the most comfortable boots I’ve tried on. At about the same price point,but,currently ,oh so fashionable .
Blundstones are far cheaper than RM Williams and are (by their own admission) in a much lower quality grade. RM Williams are the standard boot for a male who wishes to look smart (often with a suit) but doesn’t want to call undue attention to his sartorial choices. Blundstones are, but contrast, the boots that you actually do the gardening in.
Michael (an Australian)
Haha. I will tell my son that when I need the lawn cutting. They are currently so trendy in university culture in the uk.
The power of advertising .
Would be very interresting to see how (adjusted for inflation) the cost of these boots have evolved compared to shoes that are similar in terms of build quality, materials etc. My guess iss that the RM-curve beats the index in a bad way. In so many words thats what my cobbler says, at least. He says they’d be great value @ GBP 250 and a lot less so @400.
I’m not so sure as British boot prices have risen dramatically over the last two to three years. For example, my estimate is that Crockett & Jones’s are up by at least a quarter and Tricker’s boots by 40% or more. That was before inflation went up to over 10% so more rises are likely this year. With salaries falling in real terms, prices must be close to the maximum that even loyal customers are willing to pay. £400 is my limit for those brands which I bought for over 30 years. I’ll continue to take advantage of Black Friday promotions and seasonal sale offers.
When I was much younger, the price difference between RM Williams and Blundstone (another Australian boot but a bit more workwear) was quite small. Now RMW cost three times as much. In part this is because RM Williams have marketed well, but it is also because Blundstone shifted all manufacturing to Asia.
For historical context, I believe RM (that is, Reginald Murray Williams, the actual original founder) intended the boots to cost one week’s wages. We can ask who the original intended market was for determining the intended price then, compared to now, but I wonder how that’s tracked over time too.
Thanks Simon for the review. Years ago I spotted someone on a plane wearing a completely thrashed pair of Craftsman boots. They looked like very comfortable (worn out) slipper boots. I’ve liked the boot ever since and I now have a pair in dark tan leather. However, I still have a long way to go in order to achieve the perfect destroyed patina. Requires much patience.
Simon thats a great review considering that you arent the biggest fan of chelsea boots. I am looking for some nice chelsea boots for a long time since they are to me a great alternative to loafers cause they are both easy to put on and out. The rms are also not my style but i respect the brand and on some people they look great. What would you think of a japan made chelsea like this one ? https://urahara-store.com/en-de/products/rolling-dub-trio-stan-boot-oil-black
Sure a very different style but they look very well made.
Yes, a very different style – much more of a heavy workwear look. I would worry a little bit about the upper leather, seeing the way it’s creasing in the images, but it’s really hard to say having not seen it or anything from the brand in person
I tried some months ago another model of them from a friend but they were sadly 3 size biger than my size so i cant tell about how they fit but the quality was for sure on the crocket&jones leaque( i have the pembroke for 2 years) if not better. On the original page they seem to age good, if someone likes the worn out look
https://thebootsshoponline.com/collections/rolling-dub-trio/products/stan
Yes, interesting. I think that ageing shot shows how much of a workboot they are rather than a dress one. They’re using a more coated leather and a thicker one, which is good for this kind of boot – but if you got colour change like that on a Crocketts boot you would be disappointed. It’s about a type rather than quality mostly
You mention that the rubber soles are thick and cumbersome, can I ask how do these compare to the classic Dainite studded soles?
Good point, I was comparing it there to a thinner ‘city’ rubber sole, as it doesn’t have the studs etc of a Dainite. It is also quite slim around the welt which works well. I’d be interested to know what that RMW sole is made of exactly compared to other rubber options
I’ve never really understood the preference for Dainite – apart from looking quite classy. I’ve always had to have them replaced due to uneven wear and they seem,to me,to wear out quite quickly.
It’s rarely a preference and more like a compromise people are willing to make, at least that’s the impression I’ve had following discussions on this topic. I definitely prefer City sole on dressier shoes but a lot of manufacturers don’t offer it as a custom option. I hope this changes with growing demand.
Here in the north it’s basically mandatory to put gravel on pavement for 1/3 of a year and wet leather soles don’t mix too well with sharp gravel. Fact I discovered during one night out in town by nearly destroying my brand new JR soled oxfords.
Nice to see a review of a more entry level product here. I’d recommend Carmina for folks looking for a more elongated last and slightly higher quality calfskin. During their January and July sales, they can be had for around the same price as RM Williams—in the US market.
Bought a pair of r m Williams a few years back, and I was utterly disappointed. The sole didn’t last more than 3 months, the leather quality was quite poor and the boot lost its shape significantly.
Do you think these could be paired with flannel trousers, or are they too casual for that?
No I think these could be. I wouldn’t wear a jacket with them though probably
Hi Simon,
Thanks for a really fair review of a product that isn’t for you. Living in Australia, it would almost be a un-Australian not to own a pair. I have a pair of C&J as well, and they are of noticeably higher quality than the RMW’s. Sadly, the point about the price differences due to shipping etc does limit the options here. This is especially true if you have to return a pair, which I have had to do a couple of times with C&J shoes on different lasts. This is partly the reason why I own a few pairs of Loake, because even though the quality is less than C&J they make a great number of styles in the Capital last and I know they’ll fit.
Simon
I agree with you wholeheartedly about R M Williams boots. As an Australian, I am familiar with the brand and their operations in Adelaide. And you are right, their price has really jumped over the years. Not with a great deal of justification in terms of quality of materials. Although apparently popular in Australia, even with politicians who must be after a certain rugged look, there’s far better around. Some would say that, given the price, and all other things taken into consideration, they are probably mutton dressed up as lamb.
When I’m in the CBD of Sydney, I can stop and count the number of RM’s I see people wearing. An extremely popular boot here in Australia, seen worn with everything from T-shirts to business suits. Our prime minister wears them a lot too.
As for the gap that they fill, I see them as a bridge between boots that can be worn rurally and in urban environments. The lack of seams at the front of the boot gives a sleeker appearance that works with clothing you’d wear in the city, while the squarer toe, tough leather and thicker soles make it practical for when you’re out in the country. I can’t think of any Northampton equivalent that would look equally at home in both situations.
Granted, this is a bit cultural. Nobody here see’s RM’s as unusual, so they can be worn in a much wider range of circumstances. Suede models are more unusual though. The most commonly seen are mid brown, dark brown or black in yearling leather. I would even say that the yearling leather is more useful than suede since the casual texture of suede and casual last shape doesn’t look quite right with more formal, city clothing.
Agreed, I’m also from Sydney and your right they are ubiquitous here in Australia. Some find them to be a little tasteless when worn by men in finance in the CBD. I think they’re a good shoe that holds it weight though, hard to knock them from a design perspective, but a little inappropriate with finer worsted suiting.
Hi Simon
Would you say that given the lower quality level you attribute to these, they are on a similar par with a cheaper grade of Loakes?
Or are they more in the realm of paraboot as far as unique construction, quality and utility is concerned?
Jackson
They certainly have that in common with Paraboot, yes. As to quality level, I’d say probably a bit better than Loake
I’ve had a pair of craftsman, not comfort, for 10 years, and I still think they are superb, wearing them a couple of days a week. Mine are not beaten up, and are (very?) well maintained. The leather-soled non-comfort are a significantly better boot, but nowhere near as popular in Oz. On my second pair of Gardeners, for, well gardening.
Thank you Simon for sharing your views on RM.
It was the first shoe I wanted to try when I got into proper shoes. I found a lot of value in your take that you don’t see it filling any gaps in styling. I wanted to add some perspective as well, that I found after going through your post ‘5 shoes’ and some experimentation in shoes and other things.
It depends on what style a person has. And, without trying out new things with some guidelines, as in my case, your post offered, over a period of time, people can discover what really works for them. While style evolves, there is no doubt, there is still some definite essence which runs through evolution.
I know people who will only wear RM and look great but it all depends if it’s their style. But, for me, it is not. Without experimentation, it is hard to discover. In the end, I would like to add, your posts are very very helpful in not thinking about clothing too much because you offer such reliable insights one can take and move on. I have great appreciation the way you put effort into building posts.
Thanks VJ
Among the few other wholecut chelsea boots are those from JM Weston, though none are in suede. I stumbled across a pair secondhand in France in a local “vide grenier” 2 years ago (they retail for an eye-watering 995€). They are easily the most comfortable boots I own, though they are more dressy than rugged. One design feature is a central crease in the leather down the front. I’m not sure if this is why it’s done, but it is carries the crease of a decent pair of trousers down to the boot to the chiseled toe beautifully.
Worth seeking out if you have the budget, amazing handmade footwear.
Does that crease stay for a long time L? On the RMW it is there because of the making process, but becomes much less pronounced over time
Aha, you may have answered the question as to why it’s there. It’s still present after 2 years, but I’ve only worn them a few times so probably it’s too early to say.
Good review Simon, just one note from a narrow footed fan. In my experience, RMW stores in London stock F width in their more popular yearling styles. Perhaps just not for suede.
Ah OK, I didn’t remember that from the store or see it online. Thanks
No mention of the need for a shoehorn to put them on or take them off. So maybe not the best footwear for airports.
However, once on your feet they are extremely comfortable.
I have the classic chestnut yearling boots. The one piece construction is nice and it means I can never unsee the unsightly join on other boots, usually below the elastic gusset.
As for price, they are not cheap. That said, it is a bit rich to knock them for their cost given some of the outrageously expensive kit that often features on this site.
For what it’s worth, I don’t need a shoehorn to take them on or off.
As mentioned, the gusset is there for a reason on smaller leathers. It’s unavoidable.
As to price, as ever it’s not about price, it’s about value. Something could be ten times this price and still be better value.
They are great shoes for airports. The combination of tugs and elastic sides mean no shoehorn required. “Laughin’ sides”, my grandfather called them.
Thanks for the review, helped me a lot in my decision-making. I think I will go with Carmina then… since my love for the C&J is big and I’m very happy with the overall quality I may be disappointed by the R.W. Williams in that regard at their price point.
Super review Simon!
I see ur point RMW is not so much boot for the normal avagre person its a kinda good boot! I bought 2 pairs of RMW Craftsman boots and was so much better than the cheap crap that shoe/designer stores!
Nice soft leather, durable outsole an looks good one the feet etc(but sure if u go for C&J, EG, Alden u get more high end) her in norway people thinks that Tricker’s ailiens shoes but a damn good ladymagnet shoe;)
So RMW its kinda a good step up from the crappy shoes tha fall a part every year! Since her in Norway only a few know about C&J/EG/Tricker’s etc If ur regiular shope from Cavour!
Its kinda in the middle shoe for regular use and semi causal(some can use them more formal I use them for casual/semi amd perfekt everyday boots! The boots do the job very well and super happy!
Super comfy and i remmeber RMW use plastic toe and leather heel stiffeners back in time before LVMH came around! In Norway u did need to go to some more like Trunk store etc
The price for a pari of RMW in Norway is the same as in UK(£430) the time i bought them(now its like £150-200 because LVMH aka crap!
The did not have online store to ship to Norway! So i contact them dierectly and the could manage to ship 2 pairs (one dark brown and one black) an this was before LVMH raise the price and kinda «ruined« the brand!
The price i paid for 2 pairs of RMW CC in 7G + brown and black shoe cream and conditioner + shipping
Best price ever £530! Only £100 more than one pair!
A$ vs NOK was super good and the timing was on track! The customers service was indeed very good!
But a thanks to u Simon u did this reveiw af them! And ur blog is kinda the reasone have alot og more mid-end to high-end shoes/boots!
Cheers
Very good evaluation! Thank you!
Hi Simon
Would you be doing or planning on doing a review of Velasca shoes in the near future?
No, sorry, they’re not really at the quality level I’d normally cover
How about Morjas then? Milad Abedi was featured wearing them in the article dedicated to him. What kind of brands would you then recommend for a student?
I actually tried Morjas – they sent me a pair when they launched – but they really weren’t great, even for the money. I didn’t do a review though because it’s not the kind of level we cover.
I’m afraid there’s always going to be a big part of the market we can’t cover because we’re so small – to do any part of the market well with only one or two writers, you need to be selective. The only way others do it is by not really being that in-depth or nowhere near comprehensive at any level.
The H width craftsman with its narrow heel works well with duck feet. That’s why my RMs have stayed in longer in the wardrobe than other chelseas with otherwise nicer construction/leather.
The product is nice enough.
However the boots seem to make wearers feel the urge to give poor, unsolicited advice on style and quality, with the confidence of Hugh Jackmans jaw line.
Quite surprised by the price point outside Australia, while I have two pairs that get a lot of wear, they are not the nicest shoes I’ve owned and are already pushing the limit at the price in Australia.
I’m a school leader, which means in my day I might be in offices, classrooms, sports fields and facilities areas. I’m yet to find a pair of shoes that look as smart with a suit and can handle these different terrains as well as my black kangaroo leather comfort craftsmen. They’ve been reheeled once in just under a decade, although two of those years were spent mostly working from home.
There’s also a strong cultural pull for Australians to RM Williams boots, they are made in Australia when the vast majority of our previously local manufacturing has moved overseas. While much of our early history has been blighted by the reality of colonialism, Reginald Murray Williams was supposedly taught to make boots by an indigenous Australian stockman, the technique was honed in the outback and passed down to those deemed worthy. This narrative, while probably not true, is enticing for Australians from all walks of life, which is why so many politicians and business leaders have embraced the boots.
Thanks Lachie, I didn’t know that last point
Simon, you noted that you’re wearing Rubato jeans in the images above. You mention them in at least one other article in passing but I have not seen a full write-up of your thoughts on them. Is this something that’s in the works, or could it be?
Kind regards.
It wasn’t going to be, but sure I can plan a fuller article
To provide an update on repair options.
RM Williams are now doing their resoles in London for £140 or thereabouts. For those in Kent, The Golden Boot in Maidstone also offer the service. I have used it and it is excellent.
They are about to start offering Crocket and Jones. Family owned shop, friendly, knowledgeable staff.
Thanks Nicholas, very useful
My uncle has pairs of r.m’s that are over 20 years old. The new ones are not as good or robust.
I found the Harold boot company. They are £150 less than a pair of r.m’s and better made.
I really enjoyed this review. Just moved to Australia and going to have to leave behind my obsession for Northampton shoes. Interesting to hear about the quality difference, I would like a bit more quality from RM but I love the range of leathers they offer, this more exciting to me than top end calf.
I think a whole cut upper is perfectly achievable from Calf, it’s still quite a big skin. RM manage it from Kangaroo, generally smaller and a very awkward shape to cut from. They also offer a Calf version in their signature craftsman boot. Whatever skin you choose, a whole cut upper will give you less yield.
Out of interest on the latter Dan, can I ask why you say that? If all the top-end shoemakers say it’s better to use panels with calf, and do that.
Of course while a calfskin can be quite big these days, the best ones are not (no growth hormone) and you don’t want to use all the skin
I was interested in the point you made about it being easier to do a whole cut with yearling than calf and whether having the seam there is an issue. Which got me wondering, is really just a case of economics? Not that I would advocate wasting high quality calf skin. Is it better to not have the seam? Probably, but functionally it doesn’t really make much difference, maybe unless you’re riding a horse. Though wholecut footware does always seem to be very comfortable (like a wholecut Oxford).
I like the use of yearling on RMs, seems a waste to use good calf on something more rugged. I do wish they’d use more analine leathers though. The pigment died leathers scuff horribly.
RMs, as they are known, are good value for their longevity alone. I wear two pairs that are over 20 years old and while they certainly look a little scruffy they are still immensely comfortable and look, well, perhaps a little shabby chic.
Buy them to wear for a lifetime.
I like the boots. But the company PR?? This company may sell cowboy gear, but that doesn’t mean it should be run by cowboys! I bought a pair in May 2023. The service person was great, but he simply gave me the wrong pair – wrong size. Their mistake. That happens. But they made me come back into the shop to do the mistake. When i requested financial compensation, i was told the shop cant give discounts. Soi i made a formal complaint. Got an admission of responsibility and offered a $25 voucher. There is nothing you can buy at RM Williams for $25 – i’d have to spend more!!. Hardly admission of responsibility. So i proposed that RM Williams give a donation of $100 to charity, and i would make one of the same amount. I wasn’t out to make money from an error; just see an acknowledgment that they had made me fix their mistake. I was told this decision would have to go to management. I then heard nothing. I made 2 subsequent inquiries to customer relations and was told no decision had yet been made. Here we are 5 months on from my proposal and still no word. Pretty poor PR. Twiggy, you might have to give this management and PR team a kick in the backside. Happy to lend my boots.
I’m one of the folks who swears by them, for the reasons you mentioned—comfort and the wholecut look. I started wearing them in the mid-90s and have never found a good reason to try something else.
Hello readers. I find each time I sit down, my jeans rise up and then settle on the tabs of my chelsea boots, which I think looks sloppy. Is this a case of the wrong trousers, or is this why Simon appears to have folded up his jeans?
It’s not why my jeans are folded up, but certainly the length and width will determine it
Hello Simon – after owning a pair of R.M. Williams Comfort Craftsman boots for several years, I am considering purchasing a pair off Crockett & Jones Chelsea boots. I am trying to decide between their Chelsea 5 (with Dainite sole) model in dark brown wax calf leather and the Chelsea 8 in either chestnut or dark brown burnished calf (with city rubber sole).
I am in my late 40’s, and looking for a classic Chelsea that I can wear for business casual in my finance job (indigo denim and olive/ khaki chinos) and weekend/travel. I live in Los Angeles but with an Irish wife, we often visit Ireland and the UK (wet weather). Would love to have a versatile boot that I could get plenty of wear in the day/evening.
I thank you in advance for any advice and enjoy your writing.
Hey Michael,
I think burnished calf might be a little smart for the weekend – I’d probably go with the waxed leather of those two
Thanks you, Simon.