Reader profile: James
James is a reader I met in Korea last year. A friend of our host Sam Ahn, he joined us for dinner on the last night with Assisi.
James has been a customer of various bespoke tailors for about 10 years, but has largely settled down to using Sartoria Jun in Seoul. He likes the Neapolitan-like comfort, but also, interestingly, Jun’s level of taste, which he thinks many tailors lack. He also finds that most of his friends in Seoul have stopped using international tailors in favour of those in Korea or Japan.
His portraits were shot by Matt Choi in the Vint furniture gallery in Seoungsu-dong.
Outfit 1: Spring
- Jacket: Sartoria Jun
- Knit: Anderson & Sheppard
- Trousers: Sartoria Jun
- Shoes: Anthony Cleverley
- Socks: Votta (throughout)
- Bracelet: Cartier (throughout)
What do you do James?
I work in an asphalt and concrete business, serving the construction industry. I’m in a big office, and seeing everyone in tailoring was what first got me into tailoring originally. My Dad was always very smartly dressed too.
But you’re dressed in a very consistent way in these shots, a more tonal and relaxed version of tailoring?
Yes, most people in the office don’t wear a suit and tie any more, they wear polo shirts or something like that. It got to the stage that someone would always ask you where you were going if you wear wearing a suit, so I started dressing more casually - this was three or four years ago.
I’m very consistent now in what I wear - soft jackets and trousers, usually with knitwear or a T-shirt. I like understated colours and textures, so also suede shoes rather than leather. These three outfits represent how I dress through different seasons of the year here - the coat and scarf in winter, jacket and knit in spring, T-shirt and lightweight jacket in summer.
Is that OK with the weather, it seems to involve a lot of pale trousers for instance.
Yes it’s OK most of the time in Seoul - I probably wear one of these types of outfits 300 days of the year. The trousers are a foundation piece for me too, I have five pairs all in pretty much the same colour. Not white, as that’s a bit too flash on men, but types of off-white.
Is this kind of look unusual in Seoul? I don’t feel I saw many people wearing it.
No it is quite unusual, you’re right. Soft and comfortable things are popular, but you don’t see many people wearing tonal tailoring like this. I like that - it feels personal but also understated and well-dressed.
A lot of tailoring in Korea is still quite flashy - I think you saw a lot of that kind of thing at Sam’s party. Loud ties, lots of patterns, lots of pocket squares. That was the style that became big when tailoring was very fashionable here.
That probably happens everywhere, right? When something is trendy, a lot of people go over the top. It certainly happened in Europe, and you always used to see it at Pitti.
Yes, it’s fading here now, but it’s the same kind of attitude that makes people want to adopt fashions very quickly and intensely. Koreans have a tendency to do that as a whole, but I’m sure it happens everywhere.
Outfit 2: Summer
- Jacket: Antonio Pascariello
- T-shirt: James Perse
- Trousers: Sartoria Jun
- Shoes: Aubercy
Which tailors have you tried?
I think maybe 10 in total, mostly Italian, Korean, Japanese. I used Antonio Pascariello in Naples, who made this houndstooth jacket, some in Florence, Ciccio and Anglofilo in Japan, Jun in Korea obviously.
You never travelled to the UK?
No, just Italy really. And today I pretty much only use Jun - maybe for 90% of things. He has a very personal aesthetic and an interest in clothes that you don’t really find in most places. I wish more tailors cared about style to be honest, it would make things a lot easier. They are wonderful craftsmen, but the style side doesn’t interest them much.
Jun is always thinking about that, and we have long conversations about the history of style. He imports his buttons from Italy because it’s hard to get good ones here. In fact I think that’s one of the things that also swayed it for me - I could talk to Jun and discuss clothing where I couldn’t with anyone in Italy.
Do you always wear these kind of fabrics?
Yes I think that’s been part of the evolution. It’s important to be able to try different things as a customer, and fabrics is a big part of that. Trying tweed and cashmere, for example. I find I prefer the softness, the drapiness of cashmere and that type of fabric.
It’s actually been something that Permanent Style has been very useful for over the years - discussion of fabrics, weight and weave, how they perform and feel.
The other thing I like about your writing is the way you assess what the best is in a particular category - like T-shirts for example. There are so many out there, and you might end up having ones from 10 different brands. But you break it down and explain what the characteristics of each are, so you understand what something is good or bad at.
Where is this T-shirt from?
It’s from James Perse. I like his clothes because they’re in washed materials, which fits in with the kinds of colours and look I like.
What do you like about Jun’s style?
Mostly how comfortable it feels, but also masculine. It’s elegant, but it isn’t fitted anywhere - it just sits on the body well. The shoulders aren’t too big or too small, the waist is always comfortable. It's very well-balanced.
I found that I always reached for my Jun jackets, even when I had lots of other pieces from other tailors. I knew I would look good in it, but I'd also be very comfortable. So over time I gradually got everything from him.
I know you didn’t have much time to see him on this recent trip, but if you ever come again we should go see him together. It would be good to talk about his aesthetic.
Yes we only talked briefly unfortunately. His son was ill so he had to get home.
He doesn’t travel to Pitti anymore either, because he has a family. His wife would kill him if he travelled as much as he used to!
Outfit 3: Winter
- Coat: Sartoria Jun
- Knit: Loro Piana
- Scarf: Denis Colomb
- Trousers: Sartoria Jun
- Shoes: Anthony Cleverley
I think this might be my favourite of the three looks. I like the V-neck underneath without a T-shirt, though I don’t think I really have the shoulders to pull it off.
Thanks. Actually I only tried wearing my cashmere knits without a T-shirt underneath recently, but it’s so comfortable, a really different level. And you really appreciate the cashmere in a different way.
I think I’d find it a little uncomfortable, at least by the end of the day. Do you not?
No it’s fine, but I think people feel these things differently. It’s also what got me into wearing more scarves, like this one from Denis Colomb. They’re really great by the way, the best scarves I’ve tried, you should look at them.
Thanks, I don’t know them at all. I’m guessing you wear quite a lot of Loro Piana as well?
Yes, I’ve been a customer for a long time and this V-neck is from Loro Piana. It certainly fits my aesthetic.
You mentioned at dinner how much you like raglan coats - who made this one?
It’s from Jun, like most things. I know most tailors don’t like making raglans, but Pascariello does it well and Jun [who trained there] does it now too. I think he’s perfected it.
I probably wear raglan coats 90% of the time in winter. I like the fact they look more relaxed than a traditional overcoat.
I noticed you're not wearing a watch. Do you ever wear one?
I used to wear a watch but in Korea watches became a really big status thing for men, and something I wanted to opt out of. I used to have some vintage Patek and Cartier but I sold them all in the end, as they just drew too much attention. I guess it's a cultural thing largely. I prefer a simple bracelet now.
Last month we ran a project called Dry January, where we talked about caring for clothes and how the best ones age. Do you do much of your own sewing or alterations?
No, I don’t think I can even thread a needle! But alterations are so easy in Korea, there are alterations tailors on every block, and it’s high quality and cheap. Much more so than in Europe.
So there’s no need to learn to do things yourself really. You can get repairs done easily, cleaning done easily. I think I look after my clothes well though, and my wardrobe is pretty slimmed down with everything revolving around this kind of look.
Do you think you’d ever change in the future?
There are fashions in tailoring as in other things of course, but I don’t think so. It fits me and my lifestyle so well. It also feels in keeping with the other things I love - like the vintage furniture in this gallery, which I’ve bought from a couple of times.
I guess it’s always going to feel more of a long-term thing when it’s so connected to your personality and taste.
Yes I think that’s right. Also as you get older, your taste in lots of things matures and settles. As you said in your article, Korea feels like it has gone through that process in recent years, and I have too.
Personally speaking, while this style of tailoring may suit some, there is an inexplicable casualness to this style which is not for me, IMO. To each their own of course.
For me it is good British tailoring, which I would like to hear and see more articles on followed by good Italian.
A good and informative article nonetheless but I’d like to see the UK (home) revisited soon.
Thank you. We did of course do that two articles ago, and this tailoring is in nearly all ways very good Italian tailoring
that’s a beautiful scarf
James has a really distinctive but also understated style. I like how relaxed but thoughtfully put together it looks. I could see variations of his style working really well for people who like tailoring but spend most of their time in casual environments. I also appreciate seeing a non-European perspective.
It’s nice to see someone looking very relaxed in what they are wearing, all looks very comfortable and effortless.
Whilst I’d balk at any form of v-neck, I think there is a casual elegance to James’s outfits which embodies that effortless style that I feel a lot of other PS articles have been about.
The only downside I can imagine, if I were to copy this myself, is that I’d be rinsed senseless in the pub and stand out for the wrong reasons!
Perhaps I need to find better bars to hang out in.
I dress like this to the pub and only receive compliments!
Why do you balk at any form of Vneck?
Re. his last comments: I don’t know about the longevity of this style. Very Saman Amel, who did it well for a long time but IMO have gone over the top with it in their latest lookbook. Too many pale colours and too much volume all makes it a bit too fashion. My bet is the pendulum swings back to darker colours, tougher fabrics and more slimmed down fits
You think this is on a pendulum? Interesting . My first thought was it was the sort of international art gallery / architect style that’s been around since at least the 1990s, but done really well.
The only aspect that I feel is too much of the times is the suede shoes. Regular leather would’ve been a bit more effortless, I feel.
Maybe you are right. Perhaps the problem is the broadening of this style to readers who would normally wear classic menswear for more everyday jobs. Simon’s questions about the pale trousers’ practicality also gets at this.
Also, aren’t the pale colours and the proliferation of taupe and soft greys something new in this style?
100% agree on the suede shoes. I think his outfits really need some contrast in materials, with all the softness going on
I agree that the monochromatic neutral palette is more trendy than James realizes. To be clear, it’s a look I love and adopt in my own personal style, but I can appreciate that the style is a product of our current moment in time. Nonetheless, the look does contains classic elements that will insulate it from inevitably evolving fashion cycles. I hope it’ll age better than most other menswear aesthetics that come and go over time.
100%. Saman pants are becoming ludicrous in style. Not timeless. Same with Stoffa, their fits/jackets are great material but the style is becoming more and more performative.
Performative is nicely put. I certainly would not feel comfortable wearing pants cut like that or in those colours. Each to his own, but I wonder what drives this development
Is there a chance that is down to what you might call the look-book effect? Almost like a catwalk model with everything very exaggerated all at once.
Whereas if you took one standout item and incorporated into an outfit with more restrained pieces there would be an element of interest but wouldn’t be over the top. I find that’s the case with the bits I have from Stoffa or something like Scott Fraser Collection.
You could even group something like a rubato knit shape or leg line of their into the same category, but probably to a lesser extent as I think their full looks work great together.
That’s certainly a good example of how to move things along the showy/subtle spectrum – full looks are often more showy, but if you pair one item with more standard pieces elsewhere, if can become more subtle
The slim fits are still dominant everywhere except in #menswear, though.
But I can see how even craft brands like Saman Amel are expected to deliver something “new” for every lookbook, and that it will eventually need to be tuned down towards a more modest silhouette.
Nothing wrong, even nice, but it reminds me of an article I read recently in The Guardian with this introductory comment “Is your wardrobe boring enough?”, and this conclusion: “That’s the trouble with the so-called dressing-down trend: it takes serious money to get away with looking this boring…”
Interesting point Eric. I don’t think it actually takes that much money to look like this, as it’s mostly about cut and colours. Luxurious materials are certainly part of it, but they’re less important than those other two aspects.
The comment which made me uncomfortable is the comment about watches: you want to opt out of the status issue, but do not want to wear anything else than a Patek or a Cartier… Loro Piana cashmere or James Perse T-Shirts are understated status pieces as they cost 3 or 4 times (and some time even more) the price of non branded equivalent quality pieces. But it is simply less obvious to identify than a Patek or a Cartier… Then what I see here is the quintessential tentation to avoid the vulgarity of easy to identify.expensive brands becoming mainstream, but with a real appetite for uber expensive clothes which will only be recognised by a minority elite. You could wear a vintage Omega for example with this colour palette, but then you may think that it would send the message you cannot afford a Patek or a Cartier…
I think you’re reading too much into this Eric. There’s nothing that says he would only wear a Patek or a Cartier, just that he prefers not to wear watches at all because of the scene around them.
Equally, you make an assumption when you say any of this is about recognition. It’s perfectly possible to like those clothes, appreciate what they are and how they’re made, and not care if anyone recognises anything.
You may be right, I may have pushed a bit too far, thanks in any case for the discussion
“Yes, most people in the office don’t wear a suit and tie any more, they wear polo shirts or something like that. It got to the stage that someone would always ask you where you were going if you wear wearing a suit”.
James – what is the reaction now? Do people regularly make comments on how well you are dressed or do you tend to glide under the radar?
Wow, that is one tasteful style! Just lovely.
Great style. The shoes in outfit 2 shouldn’t work with how chiselled they are, but somehow they do. I guess the colour helps, and being a derby as well.
Personally I find the yellowish shade of the shoes in outfit 2 to be the only detail that doesn’t fit among all the outfits given the grey top half. Overall very well done though and pleasant to read.
When I saw the pictures I immediately thought Saman Amel.
I think this is one the best profiles .
It’s very calm , elegant and relaxed . You almost Sense the comfort from the photos. The tonal colours work beautifully.
The cut seems to be a happy medium between Italian tailoring and structured tailoring.
I think this is how most men would like to feel in tailored clothing .
Completely agree with you here Robin. It wasn’t the first thing but by the end of the article I was thinking that James really found his way to the SA style all on his own!
I also felt just a great tranquility seeing the fits and his responses. Some people are commenting that it’s boring but sometimes that may be what comfort looks like to others. Thinking of the analogy of a bachelor commenting on his friend that’s married with kids lifestyle…
IMO James looks truly comfortable and happy, which is really an enviable position!
Agree saman Amel 1 to 1. I find those colors and the tonal way of putting the outfit together pleasing on the eye. Personally I struggle to see an occasion where dressing like this will fit my lifestyle.
Pulled the trigger on a few cream trousers and taupe knits over the years got very little use in the rotation.
Not sure of your personal situations but i have a some ecru pants and lighter tops that i also hardly wear. For me, its about a little too aware of the lightness of the pant (how it stands out, even as an ecru) or how the white cloth of the knit / t shirt highlights fat on my torso. However, these things can be fixed with proper sizing and simply getting used to the colors through wear!
Hi Simon,
A very interesting profile! James has a great sense of style! If by sheer happenstance, I met him, say, anywhere on the street, I would instantly suspect him as a PS reader, despite the broad diversity of styles of the readership. .
Not so surprising, he loves suede shoes, as apparently many PS readers also do!
John
Hi Simon, I’ve enjoyed reading your blog recently. I have had a question for sometime and wanted to wait from an appropriate thread to ask, but might end up waiting forever so going to ask it here. Apologies.
I have tried six or seven different loafers from various brands and have yet to find one that my heel did not slip out of. I figure I must have skinny heels. I all but gave up on loafers, but thought if anyone would know you might. Is there a maker who accommodates for ‘thin heels’, or is bespoke my only option (not really an affordable option for me currently). Is there such thing as ‘made to measure’ shoemakers that do adaptations that are more affordable than bespoke? Thank you!
Hey Lucien,
So, it’s a very common problem and one I have too.
If you’ve tried different brands and none of them worked better for you, there’s nothing much you can do in terms of finding a different RTW last shape.
Bespoke is not necessarily the solution either I’m afraid, as my experience there has been very patchy on fit.
To an extent, this is what loafers are like and they’re just not designed for lots of walking or a really close, functional fit. Eg see Anatomica piece here.
My only suggestion would be to try a maker, like Edward Green, that will do an MTO for you where the heel is slimmer than the front.
That’s something I’m trying at the moment and will report back on.
Are you trying EG’s loafers? E width at the front and D width at the back? I thought their loafers fit you well though.
They’re pretty good, but that would be an improvement if it works, hopefully
I have D width Piccadillys but find the instep to be very tight with no show socks. Have to go sockless for the instep to feel comfortable. Do you know if EG can make the instep higher on MTO?
I don’t think so Mark, it’s more a question of different widths or set things like that, rather than bespoke-level changes.
Hey Mark, they can make the instep higher without any extra charge for the instep adjustment, when they charge around £350 for what Simon did. You need to tell them you would like ‘extra fitting’ around the instep. Hope this helps.
This is so helpful to hear. I see so many images of men wearing loafers looking so comfortable, and it’s only reinforced the idea that I must be the odd one out since I’ve never found one to fit me well. If they’re not designed for a functional fit, then perhaps it’s time I stop looking.
There are good and bad options, but yes it’s not just you!
Just adding on to simons response, you could try adding a suede heel grip. Or if the shoe is truly a little loose, add a suede tongue pad. Hold this helps!
True Calvin. I’ve found tongue pads make a good difference, though heel grips just move my foot forward which is not what I want
I own and have owned many pairs of loafers and there is something you could try to help with this…
Ultimately you need to size down to get a better fit on the heel, and sizing down with loafers and particularly suede ones is fairly commonplace.
But what about the rest of your foot? Well, you don’t mention whether the rest of your foot is slim too, but assuming you don’t typically have a problem with standard width fittings then you could look for a maker who offers wider fittings. This would enable you to select a smaller size than normal to fit the heel and avoid the inevitable trade off elsewhere in the shoe by selecting a wider fitting.
Crockett and Jones sells its Sydney loafers in E (standard for them) and G fittings. The G fitting gives you a lot of extra width that would enable you to experiment with smaller sizes than you’d normally consider and see if you can find that elusive sweet spot. The tongue pad suggested elsewhere on this thread is also useful for fine calibration, as is varying the thickness of your socks.
Good luck!
Hey Paul,
If you size down but also go for a wider fitting, do you not then find that the heel size doesn’t change – as it too should be wider in a wider fitting, along with the front?
Well, that’s a good question Simon. All I know is that this worked for me but it might have uniquely worked due to the shape of my foot. It does feel to me that the loafer is wider in the toe box area than it is in the heel relative to a smaller fitting, which I would also expect to be the case. At the same time even a maker like Crockett & Jones is also going to have some variance from shoe to shoe that could make my scenario a one-off.
Thanks, yes I’d expect the proportions to be the same, but perhaps you got lucky!
Hi Lucien, I tried some cheap heel grips but they only cut into my feet at the heel, maybe some quality grips might help, In the back of my mind I also remember Vass shoes being recommended by someone with flat feet so maybe an enquiry could be worthwhile, Or derby’s, monks or elasticated shoes maybe?
This is a great profile. James’ style is excellent, all great examples of cold colour outfits.
I have gravitated to a tonal style very similar to this in the past year. Probably an influence of Saman Amel and Stoffa. It feels like a nice way of looking put together and thoughtfully dressed without being overly showy. It’s also a better way of looking a bit casual than deconstructed jackets – the casualness comes from the colors and not the cut of the jacket. I find it hard to wear more traditional sports coats with louder patterns or colors, especially when I’m out with my friends. I know these louder patterns have some historical context – marching around the English countryside – but I find them hard to wear in my actual life. Though I do opt for long sleeved polos or crew neck sweaters over crew neck t-shirts.
It also works well with the concept of capsule wardrobes.
I very much like the look – James brings taste, style and knowledge to how he dresses. I do like how understated it all is.
This has a Saman Amel meets Wes Anderson costume quality, which I don’t mean as a compliment I’m afraid.
The outfits are too studiously casual for my tastes. Overtly trying too hard and slavishly following a set of fairly arbitrary rules on what you will and wont wear always stops people looking genuinely stylish.
Love this piece thats not the usual UK/Italian bend. I think Japan and Korea have a ton of excellent tailoring and style. Love this guys smart but relaxed look, reminds me of Saman Amel, Stoffa etc
Cheers, it is nice bringing in a view from a different place and culture
Very nice overcoat
I like how he mention that he feels that he has finally eased into a style that he has made his own and does not see changing it in the future. I just donated my jeans. I now favor chinos, wool and linen pleated trousers. I do not anticipate changing that.
Quite an elegant, clean look. I can see myself wearing most of James clothes, except for wearing jackets with collarless knits. I’ve tried it, but it always feels and looks odd to me.
Not a fan of the open neck. The T-shirts devalue the tailored jackets. By that I mean that to my eyes these outfits would look even better without than with a jacket. The tailor’s chagrin. You also see this when people pair e.g. a too colourful sweater with a jacket. It steals the attention and drags down the subtle beauty of the tailoring.
However, James clearly explains how he arrived at this style. Thanks 🙂
James has a very sophisticated and understated style. And one that he seems totally comfortable with. He really makes it look effortless!
Out of interest, Simon, what is your perception of how well people in Asia dress relative to their Western counterparts when you visit that part of the world? Do you find attitudes towards tailoring/style are typically homogenising across the developed world, albeit with some local nuances, or do you observe any fundamental differences?
The question is prompted by my recent experience at a large trade show in the States, where I was struck by how well dressed the substantial contingent of visitors from east Asia tended to be. Primarily visitors from Japan, South Korea and China, they were typically more formally and stylishly dressed than their largely scruffy American and European counterparts. Not only that, but there were a significant number of very well tailored individuals – sports jacket, flannels, striped shirt, tie and loafers were fairly commonplace.
Now it’s highly possible the stark contrast with the US, which must be one of the most casual societies in the developed world, may have over-emphasised all this in my mind, so I’d be very interested in your views on the matter. Thank you for giving this your consideration and apologies if it is veering too far off topic for your preference.
Interesting, nice point Paul.
I don’t notice anything I could make a generalisation about, but I think that’s because I’m seeing a wide range of people – it’s probably easier in your example, when it’s a particular slice of Asian culture in a different context
Actually, Bruce Boyer has made a comment on this very subject raised by Paul. It would be interesting if he could chime in.
John
The more interesting aspect to this article is that he’s comfortable in his skin and has no plans of changing his style.
That’s Rock solid. And should be respected whether it’s your perdonal style or not and it looks good on him. Something I wouldn’t gravitate towards, but it’s obvious that this is who he is.
Great profile to read.
Nicely put
Love it!
Great addition to the reader profile series. Very different to earlier ones but still keeping to an aesthetic that is consistent with the overall PS ethos.
I have a question regarding the practicalities of these outfits for an office. When all worn together it creates a certain look but most people wouldn’t sit at their desk (or walk around their office) wearing their jacket (or scarf, coat etc). It would seem to my untrained eye that wearing just a t shirt with tailored pants and elegant suede shoes wouldn’t look right.
I actually have this issue with many of the cultivated multi layered looks in menswear. Sure looks great as a “complete” outfit but that is just not how people wear clothes.
True, you’d have to either like wearing a jacket like that mostly, or find it appropriate in your work environment, or like the outfit without the jacket too.
It is something I try to bring up in my outfits because you’re right, it’s often ignored
Love those suede derbies!
While I don’t find his style unique or original, it does speak to the value of having stylish people in your orbit. The majority of rich people I know dress terribly which is not the case here. Respect to James!
Very nice looks and a strong style!
What seems weird to me though, is that this tonal styling like what Saman Amel and Stoffa are using, is marketed as more casual and understated and as drawing less attention compared to a more ‘traditional’ tailored outfit.
In my eyes at least, an outfit like this draws more attention as it is very unusual in the real world compared to let’s say a navy/brown jacket with grey trousers, that has a long history behind it. There is of course nothing wrong with that, and I think that you will inevitably stand out if you choose to wear any type of tailored clothing these days. I just think that it is a bit funny to see Saman Amel pictures with models dressed from top to bottom with cream or taupe and sell that as understated.
Yes good point.
Speaking of Korean brands have you heard of casa del sarto? I think its a mid range rtw that offers good value which some of your readers will surely be interested in. I have yet to purchase one but always keen to read a review of it (there is currently non on the net)
No, sorry Shem. Though I have to say my impression of the cheaper Korean tailoring wasn’t great
Hi Simon, I don’t think they’re considered cheap! I have heard they are comparable to ring jacket and are being carried by stores like the decorum. https://shop.thedecorumbkk.com/collections/casa-del-sarto
Thanks Shem, I didn’t know anything about them so sorry to lump them into that category – I just saw quite a lot of pretty cheap and less tasteful stuff
First time one of these reader profiles really spoke to me; no silly “1950’s captain of industry” cosplay with db suits, hats and pocket squares, no weirdly overpolished loafers or vintage pieces that I can practically smell through my screen. Just modern tailoring in considered colours, with an emphasis on comfort.
Thanks Andreas though let’s try to avoid throwing insults around, I don’t think that adds much
This is a great piece, Simon. Thank you for featuring more readers from across the globe, and giving us a sense of the subtle nuances that factor into the way each individual approaches how they present themselves. I resonate strongly with James’ motivations behind his dress–subtlety, a love of fabrics, and comfort. Since moving to the West Coast of the U.S., people have much more frequently commented on my outfits, sometimes in appreciation other times to inquire if I had a more formal business meeting or event to attend to. My response has been to slowly change my wardrobe into something more casual. Whereas I wore ties 2-3 times a week, now I virtually never do at work. Some of my work days are more “active” now, where I have to move around and set up expensive equipment in a creative lab setting, so that also impacts what I wear. Currently seeking inspiration in the ways that workwear can thoughtfully bleed into the tailored.
Keep these global perspectives coming!
Cheers Paul, and thanks for your perspective too
The man has great style. Very thoughtful and it shows. Thank you for the interview.
I’d like to add that his palette and manner of dressing reminds me of the young men I often see in Kyoto wearing brown, grey, dark blue or black traditional male kimonos–an extraordinarily elegant look.
This man knows who he is, what he likes, and what he wants to communicate. Most men would be lucky to tick one of those three boxes.
I love seeing tailoring in this context — really working for someone and the exact specifications of their lifestyle, rather than the expectations of others or tradition.
James is so incredibly thoughtful. Love the soft shouldered and tone approach.
I like James’ single minded focus to this look. All very coherent. He’s found a style and is going for it. Great that he can pull off light coloured pants; I’d struggle to. However, I agree with some of the comments that it might be too mono/uniform. But top marks to James!
Really like the cuts and colors, and even though I’m not a fan of the collarless look with jackets, it clearly works for James. Shows the value of being comfortable in your clothes! I think these informal outfits in muted colours are usually the most interesting ones in menswear – when cut, texture and material has to do all the talking. To me it’s the epitome of “whispering with your clothes”, as someone put it.
I find it a bit odd that there are a fair few people commenting about this bing boring or unoriginal. I can’t see that unless you live in a metaverse co-owned by Rubato and Saman Amel – while there are clearly a lot of influences from contemporary high end menswear designs, that’s a tiny piece of an already small market of tailoring. Slim fit navy suit, dress shirt with no tie, and white sneakers is boring – you can see entire groups of (bankers) wearing that uniform. I won’t see more than one person a day wearing an outfit like James’ outside of Pitti or Instagram. That’s living in Stockholm, too.
is this not the tonality that Mr Armani has espoused? but the fit here is better .
i have always respect for it.
You’re right Joners, though Armani tends to be darker consistently, which makes it a little easier to wear, and often more textured.
Though the fits were often more exaggerated, which made it harder
Interesting article – thanks Simon. Do you know what cloth the overcoat is made from?
I don’t, sorry, I can ask James though
Hey Anthony,
I asked James and he said it’s from the Loro Piana overcoatings bunch, pure cashmere. He doesn’t have the number but thinks there’s only one in there with this general colour.
Hello all,
i’ve read the comments on how the look of James seems to be very Saman Amel estetic, but i find it very tastefull as he looks comfy wearing it.
I think Saman Amel does a great job, because you can wear it, look good, without beeing loud.
Living in Germany i would be thankfull if some one looking like this will cross my road
!Great Style!
Many thanks Simon.
Does James have an instagram page where he shares more pictures of his outfits?
No, he doesn’t
Great article Simon, does jame have a public ins account? i really like his style!
I don’t think so, no
Wonderful style. Does he by chance remember what bunches the jackets are from?
I think it was a seasonal Italian bunch, like a Loro Piana, so the same ones won’t necessarily be available anymore I’m afraid. That kind of taupe-coloured cashmere isn’t too had to find though