Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
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This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review.
The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market.
And it was to check the quality was as good as the previous good suit I had from them - because the fitting is now being done by Domenico Pirozzi, rather than his moustachioed father Nunzio. The baton is being handed on and, on this evidence, very competently.
Finally, I thought it was worth writing a full article on the jacket because the material is quite unusual - dupioni silk from Holland & Sherry.
I’d had the cloth in my mind ever since I saw another Neapolitan tailor wearing it, about five years ago.
Expectations of silk are that it will be shiny and delicate. No matter how matte the little swatch looks, it’s hard to escape that presumption.
So when I saw it made up, looking pleasingly slubby and nowhere near as iridescent as dupioni is seen to be, I took note and saved it into my ‘Fabrics’ folder on my phone. My way of remembering these things.
I need to organise that folder actually, as a lot of it is out of date (as in, I’ve used the fabrics or decided against them). But it does speak to the point I’ve made before, that today when I select a material that isn’t a basic navy worsted or grey flannel, it’s usually because I’ve seen it on someone else.
Dupioni is a type of silk where a fine yarn is used in the warp, but a coarser and slubby one is used in the weft. The slubs come from two or more entangled cocoons, closer to the look of raw silk before it’s processed.
Dupioni is not that dissimilar to shantung silk, but it's usually thicker, heavier and has more slubs. The density is what makes it more appropriate for tailoring (and dresses, and interiors) as opposed to the shantung used for ties.
Dupioni also often uses different coloured yarns in the weave, which creates that iridescent look. But actually, in darker colours such as this, you can barely see it. There is a slightly shinier yarn buried the weave if you look closely, but overall the fabric is less shiny than most worsteds.
It was the slubbiness of dupioni that initially attracted me - it looks rather natural and organic, a little like my linen canvas jacket. Having worn it for a while, I’d say this come across nicely, and the silk is also lightweight and holds a crease really well.
On the downside, it isn’t especially breathable (linen is better there) being so dense, and it has zero natural stretch. So don’t get it fitted closely.
The dupioni I'd originally seen was dark green (217108), but it was a little too strong for me, so I ended up going for this dark brown instead (217114, H&S call it dark olive).
A lot of my jacket commissions have been in this tan/beige/brown spectrum recently. There was the pale jacket last year from Brioni, and I have another in the works to replace my Biagio Granata.
They’re in the same family as the oatmeal ones I’ve recommended in the past. Similarly smart without being the traditional navy; good with neutral trousers like cream, grey and black, and with dark cold shades of brown and green. (Unless they themselves are mid- to dark brown, as here.)
Sometimes it’s only in retrospect that you realise you’re creating this little capsule, driven just by thoughts of what trousers would go with something, perhaps, rather than part of a grand plan.
Domenico Pirozzi, as mentioned, is now travelling to London to conduct fittings, and is doing all the cutting back in Naples, alongside his father. Marco, his nephew, is also helping out and was there for my fittings.
The cord suit that Nunzio cut for me back in 2016 was great - well made and well fitted. The only real issue was that it was a little slim and short, even after requests to make it more comfortable.
So it was reassuring that Domenic made this jacket as roomy as I wanted immediately, and as I now need body-wise. The fit is just as solid as that first commission, but the style is more to my taste.
It’s worth saying that the issues with the first suit might have been down to my lack of persistence, or the fact that everything was conducted through the staff at Marinella, who at that time were using Pirozzi as their in-house tailor. Nunzio spoke no English, so there was no direct communication.
On this score Domenico too was better. Not fluent by any means, but requests seemed to be understood, and proved to have been when the final garment came through.
Domenico is travelling to London every month or so, with appointments at 11 Shepherd Market (a space shared with 'Officine del Cashmere').
A jacket in London costs £2400 and a suit £2900, so pretty reasonable. If you can get to Naples for all your appointments it’s €2000 and €2500.
Domenico also conducts frequent trunk shows in Milan, and less often in Spain, Russia, Beijing and Hong Kong. Contact them on the website or through Instagram for details.
There is, by the way, another tailor called Domenico Pirozzi in Naples, on Via Chiaia, but he is no relation or connection to Sartoria Pirozzi.
I wore the jacket here with a cream shirt from Simone Abbarchi, in a new, more pointed collar style.
The trousers are black corduroy from Pommella, while the pocket handkerchief is peach and white - the peach seems to set off the tone of the jacket quite nicely.
The shoes are an old pair of alligator that were originally made by Lodger. I later had the skins taken off and remade on my bespoke last at Gaziano & Girling - a favour from Tony that hugely improved the fit.
The brown of these is so dark that they work under the black trousers, which is rare. I should replace the laces with black ones though - that would help that combination even more.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Really nice. What is the weight? Interesting to pair with corduroy – would this work in autumn/winter or do you see it as a spring/summer fabric?
It’s mostly spring/summer, but I think it could cross into slightly cooler weather, particularly with a cardigan or something underneath.
The weight is 11oz – you can see all the details if you follow the link to the Holland & Sherry site
Thank you Simon! Trying to get a feel for how formal this fabric is. Is it sufficiently slubby that it might work with a spectrum of trousers like indigo jeans, cream chinos and charcoal flannels?
I haven’t tried it yet, but I suspect not with jeans and chinos, no
The close-up pictures of the fabric has me believe it would work well with jeans. The shots from farther out, just the opposite.
Yes, there’s texture there but the overall cloth is probably a bit too straight, not soft and malleable enough.
Thanks for this explanation- really helps understand what works and why.
Starting to think ahead to next summer. Would this jacket work with cream linen trousers? Or is it better to look at silk/linen mixes for jackets
No it definitely would, it would be lovely
H&S doesn’t seem to carry the fabric anymore. Do you know of any other merchant that may? Been wishing for something like this for a year now…
Sorry, no Sam. If it’s not available anymore we will see if it’s something that could be reissued or we would sell ourselves though
After being a bit more patient with their site, they do seem to stock some colors in their black tie bunch, but only black, various off-whites and navy. Would really like a medium brown.
Sorry to keep annoying you about this. Looking closer, the one they stock now seem quite different. It’s listed as 4oz – I realise silk fabrics might be lighter, but that seems VERY light. Images look very slubby, which I like (reminds me of my shantung silk ties), but the weight has me wondering… IS it usual that silk fabrics are that light, considering yours was 11oz? The bunch they stock is at https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/jackets/9722046-black-tie-parchment-dupioni-silk
That is very light, and I wouldn’t really recommend it for a jacket unless you had seen in made up. I think it’s rather different to mine in the weave and possibly the shininess too – which is why it’s more there for black tie
Hi, I’m not 100% sure if it the same cloth, but there are several silk in H&S interior section.
Actually I wear this fabric in Singapore, meaning hot and humid weather, and it is perfectly fine (yet not as breathable as a linen, obviously).
Hello Simon,
That really is a beautiful fabric. Is there a reason for the double track stitching around the lapels or is it just a style point with the particular tailor?
Kind regards
Mark
It’s the style – most Neapolitan tailors do it, particularly on sports jackets
beautiful jacket! Something in common with the anthology, no?
the soft tailored, gentle roping with wide lapels and a slightly lower gorge. Is this their house style or did you request aspects of it?
This is their house style, what they’ve always done. The only difference is that I requested specifically more room in the body, slightly wider shoulders, slightly longer length.
I don’t know if the Anthology looked at styles like this at all when developing their house cut
I am confused. In your Pirozzi style breakdown you stated that the gorge is the highest of all the tailors in the style series. Thanks for clarifying.
Sorry, yes Alexander I asked the gorge to be lower too. But I wouldn’t say the position of it is a point of house style. More just that I didn’t specify anything the first time when asked, but I did this time
Hey Simon,
Great jacket and thanks again for the article,especially since I was eyeing a jacket made in dupioni silk too.
Just for reference for other readers(though they may already know very well), Saman Amel has I think 3 jackets mande in dupioni silk one in hazel, one in (I think) same brown as yours, and one in a “gold”
Photos are never perfect in conveying color and shine, especially Instagram, but I found them helpful at least
What a gorgeous jacket. And that ensemble where you’re leaning on that pillar is so tasty. By the way, it’s nice that you’re covering a less casual outfit again. My perception lately was that you’re leaning a bit too much on the casual side of things.
Thanks Fatih. The PS coverage has broadened rather than swayed one way or the other – one week morning dress, the next week denim. But always with the same focus on craft, quality and elegance.
Hi Simon. A fascinating commission indeed. Is that H&S 11oz Dupioni Silk considered a hard wearing fabric or delicate?
You mentioned in this post that you have a fabrics folder.
I’m using an app, albeit only available on Android called “Random Name Picker”. You can store your fabrics, even bunch lists in this app.
I mark the fabrics from a particular bunch with an asterisk or several according to what’s important to me. You don’t have to use the random facility as such, albeit fun to use on occasion, but a fantastic app for my fabric list storage.
Can highly recommend.
Lindsay McKee
Thanks Lindsay. I’m not sure on how hard wearing it is, but I’d assume not as much as anything heavier, but as good or better than delicate summer fabrics like wool/silk/linens.
Interesting on the app. Sounds nice, though a pic of the cloth in the bunch usually does me
Jacket is visually interesting, fits well and is quite reasonably priced (in Naples at least).
Though I do wonder what would be practical advantages of having 100% silk jacket? As you mentioned it doesn’t regulate cold/heat, doesn’t stretch, and as far as I know isn’t antibacterial or “self-cleaning” like wool. Would it be tougher and harder wearing compared to other traditional materials?
Somehow I am often more drawn to the trousers you have made up rather than jackets the article is about. Can you share the provider for that black corduroy?
It certainly doesn’t have the performance aspects of wool, but then most don’t want wool in warmer temperatures. It holds a line better than cotton or linen, which is one clear advantage in summer. But most will want it for the unique texture.
The cords are from Pommella, a material that Gianluca has in a suit of his. Not sure of the mill but I can ask
Please forgive me for using this post to ask a question which is not relavent while confuse me for a long time:). The question is nowadays in many RTW brand’s website, there is also a category called tailor and the products in that very category are also RTW instead of MTM or bespoke ones. How do you think we should define the “tailor” in that situation?
No problem. I assume in that case they are just trying to separate tailoring – tailored jackets and trousers and suits – from other types of clothing?
I think that’s fine, it doesn’t have to suggest that it’s MTM or bespoke.
Is that what you were asking?
Beautiful jacket Simon. I know there is a large price difference but could you compare this to your Brioni jacket from last year please, in terms of fit, construction etc? Many thanks David
The Brioni has better finishing, but the fit and construction are pretty much the same.
Most Neapolitans don’t really emphasise finishing and it isn’t that fine. Brioni is much more similar to Milanese makers in that regard, which are among the finest there is.
Ooh, alligator shoes. A bit tony soprano for you, no?
Yeah but in the darkest, darkest possible colour and conservative shape! I’m boring even with alligator…
Hi Simon,
A great jacket and overall ensemble. On the latter can you please tell us a bit more about the shirt. I’m looking for a casual alternative to my more usual ‘go to’ OCBD. I have a few long point collars from Drakes which I like but they unfortunately don’t do so much now.
Thanks
Stephen
The shirt is in a cream herringbone, bespoke from Simone Abbarchi, I can find the precise number if you want. However, it is pretty smart and luxe looking – I wouldn’t have thought it was a good replacement for an OCBD.
Or did you mean you were interested in the style rather than the material?
Hi Simon
My mistake I read the article twice and missed the shirt maker (word blind!). I meant more the style. I can follow up myself. I’m looking for a long (ish) point collar , possibly linen or a mix with cotton.
All the best
No worries. Simone could certainly reproduce the style – it’s essentially my button-down without the buttons though
Thanks, I think that’s what I’m after. Thanks again.
Would any button down shirt without the buttons on the collar give that effect, or is yours particular in its shape ?
It depends on the shape really – some are rather shorter and set wider
Hi Simon
I confess to being a little confused by this. I know you like to experiment (as should we all), but given dupioni silk is really intended for formal wear, what is the thinking behind having it made into a casual jacket? Whilst predominantly used for formal evening gowns (and curtains!) I would have thought a more natural choice for a Pirozzi coat would be silk/linen or silk/wool.
Equally, not quite sure I get the combination with cords.
Thanks for another interesting article.
No worries. I think that’s the thing that surprised me Andy – and why I wouldn’t have made it into a jacket had I not seen it on someone else first. The slubbiness, matte texture and lack of sheen (at least in this bunch) really doesn’t make it feel formal to me at all.
I guess it’s worth not making too many assumptions about a material just because it’s traditionally used in other ways.
Looks great! By the way, would you consider posting more jacket and black trousers outfits? I’m getting the hang of it, but I’d still love to see your take on them. Black trousers used to be the devil in tailoring for so long for little reason, and it feels great to see them worn and appreciated
Sure, will do and easy to do as I wear them more often. I do think there is some logic there, in that navy or grey will probably always be more elegant, to my eye at least. But black has its own advantages, most obviously looking not like something corporate
Always liked the dupioni suit Al Pacino wears in The Godfather Part II.
Does he? Thanks, missed that, I’ll look it up
And in „The talented Mr. Ripley“ jude law‘s character is wearing a navy dupioni silk jacket at the San Remo Jazz festival, I think. Hard to see from images, but in the movie itself it is quite obvious. Just realized it yesterday when I coincidentally re-watched the movie. Without reading your post before I would have had no clue what this fabric was.
Dear TH, I’m pretty sure it’s a shantung:
https://www.posterlounge.com/p/702754.html
https://www.amazon.com/Posterazzi-Pacino-Godfather-Photo-Poster/dp/B07GX45C7B
Really smart. What do you think about a silk like this for black tie / dinner jacket? Would you also ever have this made into a suit?
I’m not sure about black tie – although it’s silk, it doesn’t look it, so it might just look slubby and matte.
I did see it as a suit on that Neapolitan tailor, but I’d look more into detail on how it would wear before having a suit made of it.
Hi Simon, out of curiosity, will you tell us who that Neapolitan tailor is?
Also, congratulations on the jacket: it looks just stunning and it is a great contribution to our understanding of the possibilities of silk for tailoring!
Thank you. But no, I didn’t mention them by name on purpose.
It’s a smashing jacket Simon. “Raw” silk is one of those intemporel, if unusual, fabrics that remains under-appreciated.
Simon!
Having read the article I wanted to ask which is your favourite Italian tailor, only to realize that I asked that very question on the Biagio post. Is it still Ciardi? 🙂
Among Neapolitans, not Italians, it probably is yes. But Pirozzi make a very good case with this jacket
Among all the italians then? If such a distinction is possible. I take its difficult to compare the style of Northern italian tailors with that of southern.
I think that’s the issue Nicolas – whether you like Caraceni, Liverano or Panico is 90% about the style you prefer
Interesting pairing with black cords. How else would you wear black corduroy trousers if I may ask? Understand I may be off topic here.
No worries. As with many things black, probably worth a separate post.
They’re not the most versatile in the world, but nice with other things in what I’ve called a cold-colour wardrobe, like dark browns, creams, olive etc
Nice jacket Simon. Black corduroy trousers are fairly versatile (for being black) and feel modern. In most other fabrics black trousers look odd unless they are part of a black tie suit.
Yes, I think this or linen is the easiest way to wear them. Still, having got this far I have started now thinking about black flannel
but at which point black/navy linen starts to risk looking like a tired suit?
black/charcoal corduroy is certainly interesting! would be nice to see article about it! (you did have a dark grey corduroy double breasted jacket, no!
It definitely has that risk, but less so in trousers than in a jacket or suit I think.
I do have a DB grey cord, though it’s maybe not quite charcoal. I did also have some charcoal cord trousers from Thom Sweeney, which were great but are way too slim now. I’m having them remade currently.
Good point on black linen Simon. Black flannel would certainly be interesting to see. Charcoal works well, but would black flannel? It would be an interesting experiment. Let us know about it if you order such a pair.
I really like the color of this jacket. It’s the urban version of the brown check jacket that is so popular in menswear, but sometimes seems too country. Instead of signaling it’s not an orphaned suit jacket by using a loud pattern, use a fabric that wouldn’t be seen in a suit. Instead of a deep, rich brown, use a colder, lighter color. Instead of a heavy tweed, use a lighter fabric that is better for indoor offices.
Great jacket and I particularly like the material. How would the fabric perform for trousers, in terms of drape, keeping a crease, and comfort?
See above on that Rags – question about a suit
Thanks, I see it now. It seems like you’ve seen these made up as trousers but are not sure how good they are.
Does anybody else have experience with this material as trousers?
Dupioni silk is a wonderful fabric for Spring and Summer. I have two Dupioni silk jackets, made for me by Oxxford Clothes, in navy and black that have served me extremely well over the years. The look is sophisticated yet understated and always receives positive comments.
Beautiful jacket and fabric.Thanks for direct link to H&S swatch. Love the stylish pick stitching on the lapel although the lapel buttonhole almost overlaps the inner stitch? Minor detail, but this is bespoke. Really lovely.
True. If you push the buttonhole further in though it starts to look a little odd – it needs to look anchored to the outside
Looks great, Simon. I’ve always been a fan of Alain Delon’s style in Purple Noon, and allegedly, his dark blue suit in it was made of dupioni silk. Was always curious about it.
Thanks Tom, I didn’t know that
I am curious to get your counsel on how best to care for linen–both suits and trousers. I recently took a pair of my favorite Rubinnaci linen trousers to a high end dry cleaners, and well…the results were quite unfavorable.
Any guidance you could provide would be welcome.
How were they unfavourable Joseph?
It appears that they shrunk, the color faded and were shiny in spots
Oh dear. To be honest that just sounds like a bad dry cleaner. That’s always going to be the process you want, but you need to find someone better.
If you’re in London, I’d recommend The Valet
I think this jacket could be a good candidate for pair of navy flannel or linen trousers.
Interesting, I hadn’t thought about that. I’ll give it a go Jack
I have a dupioni silk jacket in 217101 “oatmeal solid”, also from the H&S bunch. Somehow I do find the luster from yours more pronounced than mine. Could this be beacause of the lighting or color?
Interesting – that looks very nice. I suspect it might be the lighting, but hard to tell just from these shots
Thanks for the photo Michael, great to have more references
Love this cut. Do you think Pirozzi would be a good maker for a “Neapolitan Tweed” jacket that is suitable to wear with jeans?
Yes I do
Small point of curiosity – On some the previous, casual sport coats linked here (the oatmeal cashmere, the linen canvas) you have a single button at the sleeve. On this one you have 4. Just curious whether your tastes have changed or whether it’s a matter of how relatively smart/casual a sport coat is? To my eye, the two linked and this one read as fairly casual.
I generally have one button on Neapolitan sports jackets, but if it might be a little smarter, like I suspected this one might be, then I’d often go for 4
Why never three which is also common?
I have had three in the past, but it always feels a little unfinished to me. It’s a tiny thing though Noel, I wouldn’t sweat it that much
Hi Simon,
This jacket is a lovely piece.
This post has reminded me of a query wrote by Will Boehlke years ago on his then blog “A Suitable Wardrobe” about where to get this very fabric. Presumably, at that time Holland & Sherry didn’t offer it.
As to the trousers, is the cord Italian or British made? Italians produce a kind – with fine wales – that is similar to the cotton used in smart chinos. If that is the case, then they are ok with this jacket. I wonder whether charcoal or even mid-grey wouldn’t work too.
But I think a dark brown suede tassel loafers would make the entire outfit even more sophisticate. It sounds a little bit paradoxical. Doesn’t it?
John
I know what you mean, and that would be nice yes. The mid-grey might be a little too light, but I like the idea of the charcoal.
The cord is Italian, not particularly fine wale
Very interesting post and I really like this outfit. I have heard of dupioni silk before and been curious about it but not seen as comprehensive a write up at this before. It sounds like a beautiful fabric and I can see the appeal, even if its use might be limited to more temperate weather (although of course no reason it cannot be worn with flannels or cords in winter under an overcoat).
I particularly like the black cords, as it adds an unusual touch in a subtle way. Like you I am increasingly seeing the appeal of black trousers in more casual fabrics. Do you think they would work with a grey herringbone tweed jacket like your Anthology one (asking because I’m thinking about whether it’s worth getting a pair to wear with a similar jacket in my wardrobe)?
Thanks.
I think if you’re going to wear jacket and trousers that have no colour – black, grey, white – then there’s a risk the whole looks washed out, almost like a black and white photo. Something else needs some colour – eg a pink or pale blue shirt, or a brown shoe, maybe even both. But then it certainly can work, yes
I take your point there, although I think personal preference also comes into this. I quite like mostly monochrome black and grey outfits where the patterns and textures do the talking, which is why black cords with a grey tweed jacket appeal to me. More of a “look” than the subtle outfit you have put together here and something I probably need to try out before deciding whether it works.
True, and I think you fully realise how it looks good and what the risks are there.
Also depends a bit on your colouring. If you’re not too pale it’s easier
Very nice jacket and very good fabric choice! I love Dupioni silk and I actually have two jackets made with this fabric, one in 217115 Brown and another one in a cream color not available anymore. Could you please tell us the difference between Dupioni and a Tussah silk? Always difficult to understand the difference between Tussah, Shantung, Dupioni,…
The definitions aren’t always clean – tussah is the type of silk, for example, and shantung the region. Shantung was the name given to tussah silk from that region.
But in general tussah tends to be stiffer and lighter than Dupioni. Better for something light like a sari than for a jacket or suit
Simon- Beautiful jacket. I am always drawn to “slubbier,” more uneven fabrics and this jacket is no exception. The outfit you style here is reasonably smart, but do you think this fabric would hold up to a more casual outfit (vintage 501s/white oxford) or does the 100% silk still veer ever so slightly to the more formal direction? Thanks!
Too formal I’d say. A slubby linen would be better in that regard, if you can find one
The corduroy trousers look quite heavy for this outfit, even if they weren’t actually physically uncomfortable for the temperature on that day. Not that it doesn’t work, but it was a little unexpected and I can imagine other options working better.
Love the jacket and dupioni is something I’ve looked at in other shades of brown.
Those shoes are fantastic! I like the laces as they are.
They were actually really nice for the temperature – it wasn’t warm or cold, and the brushed cotton shirt under the lightweight jacket worked well in that regard too.
I can see them looking a little heavy, but I think it helps a lot with cord when it’s kept pressed, if intended to wear fairly smartly like this – if that makes sense
What happened to the Biagio Granata jacket, if I may ask?
I confess that when I saw the photos of your original post on that jacket , I loved how it paired with cream linen and tobacco and the Florentine streets when it was probably 35 degrees in the evening… that, ladies and gentlemen, is elegance! Most of us would’ve have just tolerated shorts!
So I found that Drapers cloth and had it made up for the Roman heat… the weight (240g), the silk/wool/linen mix is really wearable …. I’d say of many silk blends from that Drapers bunch wear the coolest in my opinion . That Dupioni looks like it might get really warm?
Have you changed shape or was the cloth not to your liking?
These combinations you mention – ie your Brioni jacket and grey H&S crispaires- in beiges, taupe, browns and creams are also what I have been making up the past few years, too. And yes, I keep a folder of cloths and images too, when I see something I like on someone else, which seem to be coming from PS a lot lately…hahaa
It wasn’t the material that was the problem there, just the fit, which was never great. I’ll be replacing it at some point with exactly the same material probably.
It is a little cooler than the Dupioni, yes.
This is a good one. I am officially green of envy!
Hi Simon,
I have two questions for you, do you have any good recommendation for a beach bag?
Number 2: When are going to try Attolini mtm? 🙂
For a beach bag, I’d say a canvas tote from any shop that has them. Nice if it’s something personal, related to a store you want to promote for example.
But otherwise, the ones from Haulier are nice – great canvas, though a little pricey.
I’ll try Attolini when I get a chance – they have no presence in London.
Nice bags. Always appreciate links to smaller merchants we might not otherwise be aware of in the states.
I love this colour. What are your thoughts on a corduroy suit (probably double breasted) in a baby/fine wale cord in this colour? Hoping for something with equivalent wearability to your a&s double breasted (ie three way, or at least two way). Thanks!
That sounds lovely Sam
In 2019, Andreas Weinås posted a taupe dupioni silk sport coat from Prologue HK on his Instagram feed, which I promptly saved to my list of desiderata. Seeing yours reinforces my wish to have one made in the future. The earthy tone in both cases is particularly appealing and removes any ostentation of wearing a silk jacket.
Amazing, I hadn’t seen that Christopher, thanks. It must be tasteful if Andreas wears it
Great jacket Simon. The price you gave for the cord suit was 3,500 euros. Have they become cheaper?
That was when they were working for Marinella, so I imagine there was an extra party’s margin in there
Hi Simon, great look. I’m after for black corduroy trousers for a while. May I ask where is the trousers cloth from? Brisbane Moss? Regards, Henry
It’s Italian, but I don’t know the mill. I’ve asked Gianluca at Pommella, I’ll post here when I hear
Thank you
Hi Simon. I don’t think anyone has asked, but can you provide any particulars on the cream herringbone shirt? I’ve been looking for a suitable material in cream and this seems lovely. You mentioned it’s quite luxe.
Yes, it’s a brushed cotton I think so has a luxe feel. Let me check with Simone where the cloth was from though
Got the details – it’s a cotton/cashmere from Thomas Mason, Balmoral quality. Code 56926
Thanks so much Simon! Cheers.
The price of € 2.000,00 for a jacket (all appointments in Naples) is excluding VAT? If it is including VAT it would be a lot cheaper than Caliendo or Ciardi, am I right? In terms of overall quality (cut, fit, finishing, consistency) is Pirozzi up there on the same level with the two mentioned?
I think it’s excluding, but might be worth double checking. Yes I’d say it’s on the same level
Hi Simon,
Love this peach pocket square. Are similar available that you know?
I haven’t looked for a while, but somewhere like Simmonot Godard is a good place to look – and their resellers
Ciao Simon
I love this jacket – have you other examples of how you styled it?
No, sorry Marek.
OK! In Summer do you think this may work with charcoal high-twists, black or cream linen? In Winter like now, I wonder if it will be OK with charcoal flannel.
The fabric seems difficult to get now.
Yes I think it would be.
What a beautiful jacket. I am going to have a winter weight jacket made in Naples – tweed, herring bone or other. I’m torn between Pirozzi or Ciardi. How do I choose? Any advice?
They’re both very good, you can’t go wrong. Perhaps Ciardi is a touch fuller in fit by default? Does access make any difference – where they travel to?
Thank you Simon. Yes, access will be the issue. Being in Toronto, neither of them travel here. Pirozzi does go to London, but again, it’s not a usual stop for me.
I assume you’ll have that with either, as they don’t go to Toronto. If New York is easier, you might need to go with Dalcuore or Solito perhaps
Hi Simon
What kind of tie would work with this ensemble?
I’d look to a grey to start with, either a wool or a knit for something casual, or a silk, printed or woven, for more formal.
But other colours might be nice too – a pale yellow perhaps, even a dark brown or dark olive
thank you! Something like this? https://www.drakes.com/collections/ties-1/products/tie-qca80n-01211-005
Yes. That’s a little wintry perhaps, but the colour is great
Thanks Simon – or something like this to be more year-round? https://www.violamilano.com/product/knitted-solid-v-end-silk-tie-light-grey/#gallery-4
Yes, if you like that knitted silk texture that would go well
Hi Simon, do you recall from where the pocket square is from? Thx
I believe it was Drake’s, but I might be wrong. Hopefully not a hard thing to find around
Hi Simon,
The jacket looks great. I’d love to have something like this made, but unfortunately the bunch has been discontinued. Any idea who might carry a similar bunch?
Thanks!
No, sorry Benedict
Hello again Simon,
I did a stock inquiry on this fabric and saw that it is no longer in production. Would you be able to suggest an alternative silk dupioni that is just as matte and slubby as this?
And general question. Is silk dupioni generally more expensive than wool silk linen mixes?
Thanks!
I don’t, sorry James. And yes, it’s often fairly expensive, though it will vary a lot with the mills
Hi Simon, I commissioned a jacket in this fabric and will be wearing it over the summer with some black linen trousers and white or cream shirts. I’ll be at events like weddings where a tie is mandatory, but can’t think what colours would make sense there. What do you think would work??
Hmm. I’d try some neutrals like cream, grey, charcoal, and then some cold versions of dark brown and dark green/olive
Thank you so much.
Sorry to ask one more question. Would wearing something like this be appropriate at a wedding if worn with a tie. Or is a suit called for? I expect most others will be in suits.
I think a suit would be better, but it’s unlikely a jacket and tie would be inappropriate
Hi Simon.
do you think this could be worn with black tie trousers and black bow tie? Eg to a summer event where some are in a smoking jacket with their black tie?
Yes I think that could be nice as an alternative, particularly if people know/realise it’s silk
Thanks Simon. Are the patch pockets and Italian shoulders an issue, or not really a problem
Good point. Italian shoulders no, just a different style. Patch pockets aren’t ideal, true, so I guess flaps (that you could also actually tuck in to get jetts) would be better
I wonder if you know when the last time that Pirozzi visited London was for their trunk show? Thanks.
I saw them a couple of months ago
Oh, then you must have last seen them when I did back in January. I asked because I ordered my wedding suit back in January when they were in London, based on their words that they visit more or less every 2 months. Yet they haven’t shown up for 4 months and have no plans to come in the near future that I know of!! How frustrating is this since my wedding is coming up next month! UK readers should beware that they have accessibility and punctuality issues.
Oh dear, sorry to hear that Kane. Have they told you anything at all about when they might be here next?
Not really, no. From their Instagram posts and stories, I know that they are busy expanding worldwide, which doesn’t help existing clients like myself.
Hmm, ok, sorry about that. I will ask them about it next time I see them