(The book version of this series is going to press now, and will be out in a couple of months. It will feature extra content and tailors not included online. More on that soon.)
Sartoria Panico is known as one of the more traditional Neapolitan tailors. Which means a soft make, but not an overly tight or short cut.
As we’ll see as we go through the dimensions on this suit, that’s broadly true. The shoulder padding and chest canvas are light, while the shoulders are wider and the back straighter than most other Neapolitans.
But there are little idiosyncrasies in there too. The low gorge and high roll on the lapel, for instance, which both make that lapel rather small. Or the fact the jacket is actually fairly short, but looks bigger because of those shoulders, chest and back.
House: Sartoria Panico
Address: Via Giosuè Carducci 29, Naples
Site: www.sartoriapanico.it
Cutter: Antonio Panico
Price of suit (at time of writing): €3200 (incl VAT)
This suit was made for me fairly recently, in 2017, with measurements and a fitting in Naples, plus two fittings in Florence during Pitti Uomo. Panico doesn’t travel much outside Italy, and not regularly to either the US or UK.
As with most of my tailoring, and certainly all featured in this series, I asked Antonio to cut his house style, with only the occasional interjection from me.
However, he was keen to make me what he considered to be an ‘English’ suit, particularly given I had selected a grey-flannel cloth. So this meant a couple of style points he wouldn’t normally do, like forward-facing pleats and high-waisted trousers. And one point in the making: two darts in the front on either side, but no seam (so nothing running down below the hip pockets).
This last point is interesting, as it’s a variation rarely seen today. Florentine tailors like Liverano use just one dart; most English tailors use a dart and a seam, with the seam further back (creating a ‘side body’); and Neapolitans also use a dart and a seam, but usually the other way around, with the seam further forward.
It’s a small, technical point and hard to describe with comparative images. But perhaps worth a separate post some time.
I really like this suit and find its slightly wider shoulders (6¾ inches) combined with drape in the chest and back, rather flattering.
It’s a combination I’ve only really found at Anderson & Sheppard among other bespoke tailors.
However, I do find that the jacket also has a definite roundness to it – really only visible when standing stock still, as above (and not when moving, as in the top photo), but definitely there.
This impression is created partly by those wider shoulders with real no roping at the ends, and by the drape in the chest.
But it’s exaggerated by the shape of the lapels. These are fairly wide (3¾ inches) and cut straight from the waist button.
That straight line, when folding outwards from the button, gives the impression of the lapel being convex, running out towards the shoulder (as with most Neapolitan jackets).
The lapel is also a little short, as a result of the relatively high buttoning point (18¾ inches) and relatively low gorge (4¼ inches). Together, they mean the lapel starts higher up, and finishes lower down.
The gorge line (along the top of the lapel) is also rather flat, adding to the impression of that notch shape pointing outwards rather than upwards.
Other small things that make a difference are the fairly generous sleeve, and the slightly lower (and curved) breast pocket.
The opening of the fronts below the waist button helps too: the opening is not as big as with some Neapolitans (or indeed Anderson & Sheppard) but it starts early, from the waist button rather than the second button, and is rather curved.
Finally, the jacket is surprisingly short: only a quarter inch longer than the jacket we held out as the ‘typical’ younger Neapolitan cut, Solito.
If this ’roundness’ to the jacket is the most interesting aspect of the Panico cut, for me, then the most obvious point is its roominess.
As you can see in the image above, the back is very straight, with almost no suppression through the small of the back. This might be a little less flattering from that angle, but makes it extremely comfortable when combined with the drape above.
Also, it’s significant that the waist is far more shaped.
If you look at the jacket from the front, it is quite suppressed through the waist. It fits as close as any other jacket there, and looks even slimmer because of the big shoulders and chest.
Yet if you pulled at the waist button, you would feel like there was lots of room – it wouldn’t feel tight.
That’s because there’s room in the back instead, and it feels like a conscious decision to have the jacket cut like this, prioritising a flattering look from the front rather than the side.
I’ll be interested to hear what readers think about this suit, now they’ve seen it broken down and shot from all angles.
It was very popular in the original review post, but that was in a glossy magazine production and setting. (See image below.)
I also rather feel that the reason it was so popular was the fact it had high-waisted trousers, worn with braces. This makes the legs look a lot longer and is flattering under a jacket.
But I don’t normally wear trousers like this because I find them unflattering and rather antiquated without the jacket. More on that here.
The silk tie and handkerchief are from Anderson & Sheppard and the shoes from Edward Green, as throughout this series. The Edward Green model is the Berkeley in dark-oak antique.
Style breakdown
- Shoulder width: 6¾ inches
- Shoulder padding: Light, just two pieces of domette
- Sleevehead: Flat
- Sleeve: Standard to roomy upper arm, taper from elbow
- Cuff: 11¼ inches
- Lapel: 3¾ inches, straight
- Gorge height: 4¼ inches
- Drape: Moderate
- Outbreast pocket height: 10½ inches
- Buttoning point: High, 18¾ inches
- Waist suppression: Shaped
- Quarters: Open, curve from buttoning point
- Length: 30¾ inches
- Back seam: Straight
- Vent height: 9¾ inches
- Trouser width at knee: 18¾ inches
- Trouser width at cuff: 15¾ inches
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
The original review post, from which the image below is taken, is here.
What to know more about how Permanent Style is funded? Read here
Hi Simon, great breakdown as always. I’d probably have mistaken this suit for a Liverano’s, especially from the front view and given the material hiding that front dart. Are the neapolitan and florentine jackets share more similarities at older generation?
Hi David,
Good question, and I’m not sure. Certainly there are some things that are similar, but others like the shoulder line and padding that are different.
Just to be clear, this has two darts in the front, unlike the Florentine one. Did I explain that clearly enough?
Yes, the shoulder line is quite obvious now that you pointed it out. You explained the darts very clear in the article already. I was meant to say the fabric, not worsted or patterned, sort of hides it anyway.
The darts and seams are definitely more geeky stuff. Interesting to have a separate article cover that.
Aha, ok that makes sense.
And sure, I’ll plan something on darts etc
There are lots of lovely things about this suit – but I am biased as I’ve got a virtually identical one (not from Panico). There are points with which one might quibble (I think the coat is a bit short, but only by 1 or 2 centimetres, and I am not sure about the balance between front and back or the line along the bottom of the back, which looks a bit curved) but what interests me is your chosen trouser length. I have noticed this before, and note that you commented on this a day or two ago, but to my eye, and despite the break at the front, your trousers, which almost always seem to finish just at, or very close to, the level of the back of the shoe,
strike me as rather short; I was always told they should finish half way between the top of the shoe and the top of the heel, thus exposing much less sock, from the back, when walking. I should be interested in your further comments about trousers length if you wish to make any.
I think you have to keep in mind that these are cuffed. You can’t get much of a slope on the bottom of a trouser which is cuffed, and so if the back were further down the shoe, as you describe, there would be a heavy break in the front.
Sorry to disagree but you can get whatever slope you like on a cuffed trouser.
Make a cuff from a separate length of cloth to your desired depth. Cut the bottom of the trouser leg at an angle of your choice. Attach the “false” cuff to the trouser.
Et voila.
I meant you can’t make it with a standard construction of cuff. I’d rather not have a false one on all my trousers.
Also a cuff with that much slope can look rather odd – it’s more noticeable than with a plain-bottomed trouser, give the line a couple of inches up indicating it.
Sorry, I evidently misunderstood you when you said you cant get much of a slope on the bottom of a trouser which is cuffed, which is why I pointed out that you can.
You would only need between 0.5” and 0.75” to get the slope your reader was talking about, and this would not be very noticeable. It certainly wouldn’t look odd. Most tailors wont talk about this, though, as it involves quiet a lot of extra work.
Thanks, yes I have tried that in the past, though didn’t like the look of that slope.
I can certainly understand why tailors might shy away from it.
Oh yes, I should also add that if made properly it would be literally impossible to guess the cuff was actually attached separately, and indeed the cuff construction itself is exactly the same as it would be if made on the hem of a trouser.
Thanks!
I really like this cut. So stylish, but so easy and comfortable looking too. I can’t help feel that it’d be even more elegant with just a touch more length in the jacket? (This feeling especially stems from that profile picture, where the shortness does look a little…not quite ‘mean’, but not as generous and flowing as the rest of the garment.) What do you think Simon?
I think you’re probably right Grant, yes. I rarely notice that when wearing the suit, but nonetheless an extra couple of centimetres would probably have been good.
Dear Simon, I like it a lot. Your point on the back very interesting, as indeed sometimes I find Neapolitan suits too snug to stay buttoned up and be comfortable. The fit suits the material, looks like you could sleep in it , and that in a good way!
Like the backdrop of the club even more.
A minor question. Flap on the pockets, Neapolitan tailors seem not to do that as a rule. And without does make things simpler, somehow less fussy. Your thoughts?
Cheers Fred.
On pockets, I’d generally have patch pockets on a jacket from Naples.
On a suit, I tend to have flaps, but have had besom pockets as well. I usually go with flaps just because if I want to switch, I can tuck the flaps in and the impression is the same as on a flapless pocket.
Hi Simon
Will Caliendo be included in the book?
Yes they will Mac
Simon,
I think this is a stunning looking suit, all parts made to work in harmony, none too extreme but each distinctive in its own way (the length, the collar height, the lapel width etc).
My one thought though is that it does appear to be short in the back (balance?), I’m no tailor so it may just be my impression but when viewed from the side it does seem to need more length as its swallowed up by your shoulder blades and that may partially explain why the back is sitting away from you.
Is that a deliberate ploy to create that effect? I think only the cutter can say. Regardless, it is an excellent suit on of your best.
Thanks.
Yes, as mentioned I was surprised how short it was in the back. Could perhaps do with a little more there
Hi Simon, What weight of cloth is this?
The cloth is: Vitale Barberis Canonico 504.801/6, 340g/12oz from the Original Woollen Flannel bunch
Simon – I was curious about the fabric reference for this suit. I’ve seen VBC’s 504.801/6 described as a charcoal (rather than mid-grey), and the picture on VBC’s site seems a bit darker than your pictures (though I know that can sometimes be deceiving).
Is there any chance your suit is actually 504.801/4, which I think is the darker of two mid-grey options VBC has in this range?
I’m afraid I’m not sure I can help DB – that was the code I was told, and I haven’t seen a swatch of it since to compare to mine.
In retrospect, though, to be honest I’d go for an English flannel like Fox rather than this from VBC. It was a little too soft and didn’t hold its shape that well
Interesting.
So one is looking for a business suit – but as soft and casual as it can be – so opts for Naples. Would you go with Panico for such a project or Ciardi?
There wouldn’t be a big difference between them. Personally I’d go for Ciardi, but as I say the styles and finishing are quite similar
This is one of my favorite suits reviewed so far. So classic, understated and elegant! How does the fabric perform throughout the day? Does it keep a crease nicely? Do the trousers need to be repressed often?
Thank you!
It’s ok. Flannel is not the greatest at keeping a crease, and the VBC version is softer than the English.
A handsome suit, Simon, that is a pleasure to look at. Also, beautifully accessorized. And yes, I like the handkerchief. Is the tie a vicuña-colored grenadine on a light blue shirt? Zoomed in, but couldn’t quite determine. I thought the tie complemented the brown shoes very nicely. I suppose you chose the patterned socks rather than solid to add a bit of interest as everything else is basically solid? As an alternative, would you have chosen solid brown socks to match the shoes or would you have reverted to solid or patterned grey?
Cheers.
It’s a woven silk actually, in white and pale brown.
Yes, that was the reason for the socks. Otherwise I would have gone for grey – always matching the trousers by default
Hi Simon, I’m not sure why (and I accept your normal warning about making too much of the photos), but the cuffs on these trousers seem to upset the balance of the suit (the shortness of the jacket may contribute to this). Maybe we will soon see a post appearing on Permanent Style titled: ‘Why I rarely wear cuffs today’… ?
Ha! No signs of that yet.
Interesting though – I think it’s something about the way the cuffs fall over the shoes, rather than the cuffs themselves. I might be wrong
i always think that you would do better with a smaller leg opening, simon. have you ever analysed this possibility? i feel that it would give you a better overall balance
I have tried that, yes, but it’s not that flattering – the leg line is then too tapered, and the opening also looks rather odd in proportion to the shoe.
I do have narrower ones with some jeans and chinos, but I wouldn’t with tailoring.
This looks like a suit that I could spend all wearing. Re an earlier post, this proves that style and comfort do not have to be mutually exclusive. I’d like the coat and the trousers to be a bit longer. As Signore Barberi says ” I want to see your shoes, I do not want to see your socks.” Beautiful fabric and color. Well done.
As you mentioned, it’s interesting how Panico’s approach to creating a looser fitting back is in contrast to the other tailors, such as Huntsman and Chittleborough and Morgan. I guess they are both valid approaches, especially if you had the luxury to access both. Personally, I am an admirer of the silhouette of a more sculpted, cleaner back as I often get compliments from colleagues when wearing bespoke garments from the so-called Savile Row styled suits. The Panico approach may appeal more as I age, though. I wonder if the aesthetics and priorities of style and fit evolve as the cutter themselves age?
Interesting thought. I haven’t heard of that happening with anyone, but I haven’t asked either. I certainly will now Dan. Cheers
I like this – nice cut.
Jacket seems to have good proportions albeit, as stated could do with being a tad longer.
With regards to the strides, I certainly wouldn’t be going for suspenders and there does seem to be something bizarre going on with the cuffs. They do appear too short but maybe they are hitched a little high ?
A grey flannel should be a staple in any self respecting flaneurs wardrobe – they are so versatile.
This one would make for a louche look when paired with a roll-neck sweater or the right colour/weight denim shirt or, as shown here, dressed up it would work well for births, deaths and marriages.
With regard to the total look, I think this is one of the few colours that doesn’t go with brown leather shoes. Black (as in the original post) is best for dressing it up and a pair of dark brown tasseled loafers would look great for a more casual approach.
That said, another great post in the series but when are we going to see a style break down of your best suit – the DB A&S Corduroy?
There won’t be one Jason – the whole point of the series is to take one suit from each tailor and analyse their cuts. I would add more tailors before I did more than one from A&S.
It might be interesting to do a whole different series comparing DBs, but we already did a small comparison of those measurements here.
Yes !! I would be delighted to see a series comparing DBs… Do make that your next project please !!
Thanks Thomas. Did you see the comment above was linking to one we already did?
When comparing this to the original post it’s interesting to note how much difference context makes. Same suit, same wearer, same photographer but contrasting results. Shade, shape and style all seem altered by the move from a dynamic setting to one that is static and more forensic, a move that reinforces yet again how risky it is to judge tailoring from photographs. Even apparent fit is altered by a subtle change of viewpoint. In the original post there is a side view that seems to show suppression in the back but a similar shot here, where the camera position has shifted ever so slightly rearwards, clearly demonstrates what you say in the text about the back being almost straight. It would have been fascinating to see a re-shooting of the title photograph from the original post (with the same accessories) in the clinical setting of this post to be able to compare them with just the one variable of background.
Thanks Ian, I do think that’s interesting. Neither of them are really completely accurate – I never stand stock still in bare-white environments, for example.
Looking forward to the book when it comes out.
Cheers Lindsay. As ever with a book, it’s been a long haul, but very rewarding in the end.
Off point a little, but whilst on the subject of Italian flannel tailoring, do you yet have an opinion on the Kit Blake line in pleated trousers, quality of fabric and cut?
No, sorry Joseph, I haven’t tried Kit Blake yet.
Simon,
Thank you for your continued postings during the coronavirus pandemic.
I really like this suit. What strikes me is the difference between the shade of grey flannel in this suit and the charcoal Vesteucci suit reviewed in this series. While I like both charcoal and lighter grey worsteds, I vastly prefer a lighter (medium grey) in flannel.
Is this just a personal preference? Does it impact on versatility of the garment?
Also, can you comment on chalk stripes with flannel? Is this only for business? As a New York resident in the US, we seem far less averse to chalk and pinstripes compared to others. A matter of formality?
A mid-grey like this is a classic for a reason – it’s so useful and complements a huge range of colours, including lots of bright or strong colours.
But it’s not as smart as a charcoal, no. In a very conservative office, this might be too unusual.
The problem with chalk stripes today is less them being smart, or for business, and more the fact they can look antiquated, because they’re so rare. If you’re in an office where people do wear them, then go ahead. But always be aware it’s slightly risky, as it can look old-fashioned, or old banker-like etc
I think you have a blind spot when it comes to chalk stripes with flannel.
Some of the great flaneurs of recent times – Leonard Cohen and Serge Gainsborough to name but two – used that very thing to create magnificent louche looks but, it is an advanced art !
They did indeed Jason. But they were pop stars, they weren’t working in an office.
The flannel looks really luxurious. I like how it looks from the front but not so much from side or back. The lapel straight edge gives a more modern look than the typical British curved belly though does appear a bit short. The jacket also looks a bit short and too much drape in the back for me, it makes it look a tad sloppy and loose. The profile doesn’t look flattering, with no contoured back and for some reason, this jacket makes you look like you have a tummy…not sure if it’s because of the button positioning or what. I much prefer your Ciardi and, though not neapolitan but still soft tailoring, your Steven Hitchcock jacket. They look to look more tidy and tight, maybe because of the fabric choice vs flannel? Or it may just be my preference for a slightly more structured look…
Both of those have more shape in the back, which I think makes the biggest difference.
Hi – sorry for the question. I am a bit of a newbie. What’s the general position regarding getting a second pair of trousers with any commission. I suppose – due to finances -would only ever have two or three suits, but they would be quite heavily used.
No worries Rob.
It’s always a good idea if you’re going to wear the suits heavily. It will double their life.
Apologies for what may be a stupid question, but could you have the two sets of trousers made with a different rise? Say one with a mid-rise for days where you may be removing the jacket, and a higher rise pair (perhaps with braces) for days when you are sure you wouldn’t (or would be converting to a 3-piece by adding a waistcoat)?
Or would the choice of trouser rise affect jacket choices like buttoning point?
To expand the question slightly, I assume you could also choose to have one pair flat fronted and one pair pleated without it impacting the overall impression of the suit?
Some people might alter the buttoning point depending on the trouser rise, but I wouldn’t personally. Just worth bearing in mind that you don’t want too big a gap between buttoning point and the top of the trousers.
However, I would probably counsel against getting such different styles of trousers, just because you are likely to end up wearing one style rather more than the other one, which starts to undermine the economics of getting two in the first place. In my experience you think you’ll wear them both, but you really end up preferring style to the other, and therefore wearing that trouser three or four times as often.
That’s less of an issue with pleats, and that would have even less of an effect on the overall style of the suit. So safer ground there.
Hi Simon, thanks for replying, that’s very helpful advice.
Just wanted to say: amazing suit.
Dear Simon,
Good morning. I would like to ask you a question regarding drape especially in the back.
Is there a difference between the drape in the back between English vs Neapolitan coats?
Sometimes you call is “looseness” and sometimes drape, are these two the same?
Have a good week,
Alex N.
Hi Alex,
I’d say there’s more difference within each area, than there is between them. So some Neapolitans cut a very close back, and some a looser one, and English vary in the same way.
There is a technical difference between drape and looseness, in that drape is more often just placed at the side of the back, perhaps through the position of the shoulder or by using the side seam. Whereas looseness is a more general term just for how much room there is in the whole back. But it’s a small difference.
Cheers
Simon, overall, I like the cut as it looks both stylish and comfortable. Pictures can be misleading, but in the full-body buttoned photos, the suit looks great although I do find the extension of the shoulders a bit extreme. In the upper torso to your nose photo, the entire upper half of the jacket looks too big. To my eye, the drape in this photo and the first photo looks to be an inch or so too much. Maybe I’m just be unduly influenced by all the snug fitting fashion table photos of the last decade?
I think it’s very subjective Jim, you’re right. It doesn’t look big to me, but then so many things look too small and tight to me now.
I can completely see how someone else would think it looks big.
I second those opinions from before. I think it has to do with the fact that this style really suits you (given what you have said in the past), somewhere in between the formal and casual side of things. Looks very comfortable and would go great with dark knitwear as well.
Also, what a lovely and distinct contrast that copper silk tie has with the grey flannel. Amazing.
Hi Simon. All the questions about this wonderfully cut suit that I would have asked (and many more) have been already answered. However, I still have a few about the accessories. 1) Is the A&S necktie self-tipped? Is it made in Italy? Do you know if it comes from the Como area? 2) Would you mind sharing the name of the socks’ manufacturer or retailer? Thank you.
Hi Fabrizio,
On the tie, to be honest I can’t remember – it was one I borrowed from them, rather than being one of my own. I would imagine it was not self-tipped, and made in the UK, but you’d be best checking with them.
The socks are from Bresciani
Thank you, Simon. The ties sold online by A&S are all self-tipped and made in Italy. They may be offering different ties from U.K. manufacturers in their London clothing store… I’ll check on my next visit.
Thanks for checking Farbrizio
Really looking forward for a POST with the comparative images of darts/seams – English/Napolitan/Florentine styles.
Cheers, Simon!
I’m glad you got the idea to turn your tailor style breakdowns into a book. There are some garments I’m looking forward to seeing breakdowns of, like your green Solito jacket, your blue A&S linen suit, several of your Caliendo jackets…
Hi Stanford,
I’ve already done the A&S linen jacket, and there won’t be more than one piece per tailor – the idea is to compare cuts, so there’s not a lot of point doing several things in the same cut. There will be Caliendo in there, though, which hasn’t been on the site.
I understand that decision, given the limitations of physical publishing. But I remain curious about differences in jackets from the same tailor (assuming both were cut to house style). I’m referring to your green Solito wool jacket and your brown Solito wool/silk/linen jacket; the shoulder of the latter seems so much rounder than the shoulder of the former.
Ok, thanks Stanford. To be honest I’m not sure there is that difference – or if there is, it’s very small compared to the other differences.
Might also be me changing shape slightly over the years.
I’ll show you what I mean.
Your green Solito wool jacket
) and your Solito Escorial jacket 
) both feature a fairly clean drop from shoulder to sleeve.
The brown Solito wool/silk/linen
) looks very different. Your shoulder pushes into the sleeve more, creating a rounder silhouette; I would have thought that the shoulders were narrower on this jacket than on the other two, or otherwise constructed differently. On this jacket, the area where the arm meets the torso is less “clean” than on the other two; there appears to be an outward bulge in the chest, as if there were drape. If you hadn’t said so, I would never have thought that this jacket was cut to the same house style as the others.
I see the points you’re referring to, but to be honest I think you’re reading a little too much into them from one or two pictures.
You are far more familiar with the jackets than I am, so I’ll take your word for it.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.
Any time Stanford. Happy to help.
Nice Breakdown as always!! Question, how can I keep my dress shirt or t-shirt tucked in all day? It tends to give up on me and it makes the so called “muffin top” look on me. Got any advice? Again nice suit as always!
Cheers Joseph.
Have you had shirts made for you? The key is likely to be in an aspect of fit of the shirt, for example being long enough that it sits at least halfway down your bottom. Or isn’t either too slim (will ride up) or too big (too much material to fit in the trouser).
Well-fitted trousers will help too. A decent rise and tight enough on the waist.
How is the drape in comparison to Steven Hitchcock and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury? I assume A&S has the most drape of any tailor.
Not quite as much, though it can be adjusted by the customer.
And yes probably, though it’s not a big jump
Correct me if I am wrong, but it looks to me that you wear more of a mid rise trouser rather than these super high waist trousers most of the #menswear community has been wearing the last years? I don’t think it’s very flattering for most men to wear high waist trousers to be honest. My personal opinion is that most men are better looking with a mid rise waist trouser. What’s your opinion about this? Would be interesting to read an article about it, what you think is most flattering on men in general. Many thanks.
Hi Patrik,
Yes you’re right, and it’s something we’ve covered off and on over the years – see this post for a good discussion.
My view is that high-rise trousers can be very flattering with a jacket, and even with knitwear, but not with just a shirt. They make your rear very large, and look a little antiquated.
Mid-rise is a good point in between, if it works for you.
Simon,
Are you aware of any tailors in London who can do exact measurement replica/clones of suits/shirts you have, if the tailor who originally did them is no longer with us? I heard that Hong Kong used to specialise in this and would often remake replicas for Cary Grant who liked a particular shirt but couldn’t use the original tailor.Is this only a thing which is done mainly in Hong Kong?
Quite a lot of cheaper tailors will offer it, as they’re used to having to cater to as wide a clientele as possible. But I would only ever recommend it if it’s a style the tailor has made many times before. I wouldn’t ask an English-trained tailor to cut a Neapolitan jacket, for instance. Too many subtle points of cut and make will be different.
However, copying simple design things can work ok, such as the lapels and button position on an overcoat.
Also much easier to do with a shirt than a jacket
Simon – I have enjoyed your articles on this topic. I am 6’ tall and am an athletic 215. I’ve had a couple of suits made but, without going into detail about this or that house or city, have never been thrilled with the results. Is there a “style” you would recommend for someone my size?
Hey Jon,
I’d generally recommend a soft cut, that drapes well. Either something Neapolitan or a drape cut from the UK, such as Anderson & Sheppard or Steven Hitchcock.
There’s a little on this subject too, in our piece on suits that flatter body types.
Thanks, Simon. I will read that article. I have long enjoyed what you write. I don’t claim the levels of expertise you and many of your readers have. To me, clothes are critically important tools, albeit attractive ones, to send a subtle but clear message. Nothing else sends those messages in quite the way that clothes do – not watches (which I view as a different signal that is rarely consistent with my goal), jewelry, cars, or homes. Age, I suppose, has focused my interests rather narrowly.
Thanks Jon, and I wholeheartedly agree. Though you probably wouldn’t expect anything else from me
I love this suit! I’m looking for something exactly like this! Can you tell me a little more about the cloth? Why did you opt for a 2/3 roll lapel? Thanks in advance!
Is this a summer suit?
No, it’s flannel and flannel is not a summer material.
Im going to naples to try panico do they speak english to communicate?
The daughter does, yes, or they will bring someone in. Just make sure you ask in advance
Thanks simon i am having problems with choosing where to go panico or ciro zizolfi for jacket my taste is close to ciro because panico seems to make tight look jacket, and ciro i think it looks too formal to me,do you think ciro can be more casual if i ask them to shorten the length and more natural shoulders?
Yes, I think Ciro can. Although I also wouldn’t describe Panico as tight fitting at all, or at least mine wasn’t
I see! May i ask who’s your favourite or prefer neapoletan jacket tailor?
There are quite a few I like, but my favourite is probably Ciardi, followed by Caliendo, Pirozzi or Ettore de Cesare
Fewer than i think!you prefer british tailor more?
No, I like both, just for different styles.
I see i searched more and it seems solito is more my taste looks casual
Solito is more casual probably, yes, in that it’s shorter usually, with a very natural shoulder. They are cheaper though and that is reflected in some aspects of the work. You could get a similarly casual jacket from a Ciardi or Caliendo if you just had the jacket a little shorter I think.
I made my mind making casual jacket with ciro,trouser with pommella for neapoletan style
For florentine style do you think liverano is no compare to others?
If you’re only going to have one, then yes I would go with Liverano
I realu like ciro s jacket except its bottom line looks yoo square i want it more cirrcular do you think it can collapse the jacket balance if i ask them for more casual front cut?
It’s not that it collapse, it’s just that it’s risky, and potentially insulting, to ask them to change their cut like that. I would only spend good money like that on a cut I had already seen, rather than something you’re asking them to do for the first time.
See post here on that
I understood, and read the post
But its really hard to make decision
Becuase i cant find better neopoletan jacket better than ciro for my taste except little bit of front cut problem, in this situation i would just go and ask them not change the cut but shorten the jacket as not collapesing balance thanks for advice
No problem
Is Antonio Panico’s atelier still considered a top Neaploitan shop? How does his style compare to the current Rubinacci or Ciardi styles?
If he’s there and working, yes it is. For a comparison maybe look at this article compared to my ones on those two others?
Hi Simon, is this flannel darker than the grey of your Sexton flannel DB? I always find it difficult to judge colors on the screen. Many thanks. Andrew
No worries. No, I’d say it was a shade lighter
Simon would you ever wear this suit with a Friday polo or a rollneck like you’ve done with your charcoal flannel suit? In other words, is a charcoal flannel suit more, less or as versatile as this mid grey ?
I would wear this with a roll neck yes. In general I’d say a mid-grey is slightly more versatile, certainly in terms of colours in can go with
And with a Friday polo or Dorset knit? What colours would work ?
Pretty much all of them – black perhaps the least, but even then I can see it
Hi Simon,
You said that the sleeves are fairly generous. Could you tell us the width at the opening? How does it compare with other less generous sleeves you have ? Thanks !
The opening is not that different, it’s more in the bicep area. I’d say there’s an extra 2cm in the diameter perhaps
Ok, makes sense. What is your “standard” opening, out of curiosity?
I’m not sure to be honest Noel, it’s not something I ever measure – I more just assess by eye. I trust you the tailor to keep the sleeve in proportion, and only mention the opening if it looks rather too big or too small
Stewart, do you if Antonio Panico himself is still the primary hands-on talent in his sartoria, or has he stepped back to a more supervisory role? Thank you. Amazing suit!
The name’s Simon! But he has mostly retired now, yes, he’s not hands-on anymore
*Simon. My apologies. I just got off the phone with my brother Stewart and had his name on my mind.
Ha! No worries