The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
*UPDATE: Since this article was published, Brioni has also been tried and reviewed, as has J Mueser* Although I haven’t covered the same number of MTM tailors as bespoke ones, Permanent Style has steadily accumulated a good range - from Kiton ...
The (17) made-to-measure tailors I have known
Match in comments:
Not really I'm afraid - the more formal cut is a little underserved for MTM. It's much easier to get softer Italian stuff, largely because all the factories are there...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
Perhaps the most striking thing about Jean-Manuel Moreau’s operation in Paris is how long it’s been around. Most shops we cover track their origins back 10 or 12 years. It’s in this period that stores like Trunk, The Armoury, Ander...
Jean-Manuel Moreau, Paris
Match in comments:
The biggest difference with Cad is that the work is done in India, not Europe. And I don't know the details of the work, but I don't think that is a full bespoke offering....
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
[Correction: This piece originally stated that the jacket did not have a hand-padded lapel. It does, and this has now been added below.] This pink corduroy jacket was made for me by Orazio Luciano, over a period of six months. I was measured at Pit...
Orazio Luciano made-to-measure jacket: Review
Match in comments:
Extremely nice jacket. By the way, the full collar of the shirt beneath works well with the jacket's wider lapels....
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
Pitti is a long trade show: four full days, when most are usually three. As a result, by Friday everyone is exhausted, with selling, talking, and late dinners. Although it does depend on why you’re there. Most people fall into one of three gro...
A Pitti diary: The experience, the brands, the pa...
Match in comments:
Thanks. De Bonne Facture are lovely - not always my kind of style, but they make great pieces...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Given how much readers have liked the posts recently looking at Armoury trousers, and then the Bryceland’s range, I thought a post going through the Armoury’s tailoring would be interesting. If anything this is more needed than the trous...
The Armoury tailoring: Ring Jacket, Orazio, Liverano
Match in comments:
To be honest Darius, if you're going through that kind of change, I would hold off on buying anything that's a real investment. Sorry, I know it's not what you want to hear but it is much more sensible...
Wearing warm and cold colours
Taka from Liverano. Lots of colour and pattern, but overall quite cold Being able to judge the relative formality of an outfit is a key component of dressing well in modern, variable working environments. Many things contribute to this formality: Mo...
Wearing warm and cold colours
Match in comments:
I certainly would mix them together, yes, it can be an interesting combination....
Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...
This is the latest in my somewhat infrequent series on the style of my favourite people in the menswear industry. For those that want to catch up, the previous instalments have been: Personal style: How to dress like Bruce Boyer (and part ...
Combining colours and patterns: How to dress like...
Match in comments:
Excellent. He knows how to do a flow of tone from top to bottom -- for instance, light sport coat, while the dark tie leads the eye down to the dark pants. Perfect. Fullness of shirt collar/ tie width/ lapel width in har...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...
I know that one of the style areas people find most difficult is wearing sports jackets, or separate waistcoats, with everything else: shirt, tie, hank, trousers. I’ve always loved the way Alan at The Armoury wears these things together, ...
Wearing sports jackets and texture: How to dress ...
Match in comments:
How true. Think what you want about the clothes — for me they are more an exercise in fashion rather than style — that said, all is ruined by the phenomena of 'the dodgy barnett '. All of us that are lucky enough to ...
Orazio Luciano: expanding Neapolitan tailoring
Orazio Luciano has an opportunity. It is expanding into the North American market at a time when Neapolitan tailoring is becoming increasingly popular, and other brands (most notably Kiton) are a fair bit more expensive. Orazio Luciano does classic...
Orazio Luciano: expanding Neapolitan tailoring
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Does anybody know if it is cheaper when you get measuared by OL in naples?...
Green, shantung, club (tie)
Dark green is a subtle and versatile tie colour. You’re not surprised I think that, right? After all I sing the praises of green at every opportunity. But broad truths bear repeating. With an outfit like the one above, navy would be the s...
Green, shantung, club (tie)
Match in comments:
They're a little informal for a suit, but in a dark colour perhaps with a slightly more casual suit, like a flannel...
How Pitti is changing
In my report on Pitti Uomo for Essence magazine I examine the manufacturers – such as Begg, Merola and Bresciani – that are becoming brands in their own right. Read it here. Pictured: Pino Luciano of Neapolitan tailors Orazio Luci...
How Pitti is changing
Match in comments:
That's a good question Alfred. I'll use it as a post sometime soon if that's ok? Simon...
Simone Righi, Frasi
It was nice to meet Simone Righi in Florence. I’ve been into Frasi, and Tie Your Tie as it was before, but not when he has been in the shop. Simone rebranded his shop three years ago, leaving the Japanese group Tie Your Tie. The stock and servi...
Simone Righi, Frasi
Match in comments:
Thanks Ruben, that's very kind...
