This summer suit from Sartoria Cornacchia was made for me last year, and I would like to apologise for the delay in covering it.
I didn’t get around to shooting the suit until the end of the Summer; events and the pop-up then got in the way; and by the time that was all done, it was cold and wet and the article no longer seemed appropriate.
Of course, few readers would have realised this (other than the occasional eagle-eyed commenter on the fitting post), but I do apologise to Nicola Cornacchia and his team.
Cornacchia is a small, regional tailor in Altamura, in the Puglia region of Italy. It’s not the most popular area for English tourists, but is for other Europeans, and Italians in general often holiday here.
Altamura is a little way back from the coast, a beautiful walled town up on a hill, and makes a nice day trip. It’s also famous for its bread (see my first post).
Nicola is the father and the cutter, Maria runs the business, and their daughters both do some aspects of the making.
The construction is lightweight, without being full-on Naples. So only a thin pad in the shoulder and a lightweight canvas, but no spalla camicia, shirring or anything particularly short or tight. It is a smart suit, for a hot climate.
The quality of the work is good - full bespoke - without being the best in the world. You can see on the post showing our one fitting (in Florence) for example, that the collar is padded by machine, not by hand.
This isn't the worst thing, and even some Savile Row tailors do it occasionally, but it's not the purist’s idea of top-end bespoke.
In fact, I’d say overall that this suit is a great example of a good-quality, local tailor. The kind of thing there used to be far more of around Europe.
The fit is solid, the finishing good, and the product excellent value (suits start at €2200).
The problem for tailors like this over the past 40 years has been that people increasingly value design over quality - and so for someone that doesn’t understand bespoke, €2200 seems like lot of money for someone they've never heard of.
If Permanent Style could achieve anything, I’d love it if it could encourage men to seek out local tailors such as this, realise the great value they get, and understand enough about design to make informed decisions about the suit’s style.
Because the only obvious thing that tailors sometimes lack is an understanding of style, in order to keep their tailoring relevant.
Cornacchia does quite well in this regard. They naturally cut a slim trouser and a relatively high buttoning point, both of which make it look contemporary.
The buttoning point is actually one thing I’d change if I made a second commission, perhaps lowering in 2cm. But it’s pretty much the only thing.
The lapel also has a tiny amount of belly, which is a little unusual for southern Italian tailors, but again makes it look more like a ready-made style.
The fit is good, particularly for a first suit and with only one fitting.
The collar could do with being a little closer on the neck, and the shoulders lifted up slightly (visible on the back, not the front). The right side at the front could also do with being picked up a touch, and the armhole cleared.
But these are all small issues, which more expensive tailors have also had with my body shape.
And, it’s worth emphasising that this fit is hugely better than any ready-to-wear suit. (I am planning some comparison pieces on that subject.)
Plus of course, the advantage with bespoke is that the second suit would fit better every time, while the RTW version would always be the same.
In fact, this is something that doesn’t get enough attention on Permanent Style.
A problem with covering lots of tailors - in order to give readers an informed view on all of them - is that there is less coverage of repeated commissions, and how this develops a practically perfect pattern. I think this underplays the benefits of bespoke, and is also something I will try to cover more.
The finishing on this suit is good, as I say. Not at the level of the top Savile Row tailors, let alone the Parisians or someone like Michael Browne, but certainly as good as the best Neapolitan.
The buttonholes are neat, there is nice pick stitching around the edges and seams, and the lining inside is top stitched.
Personally I don’t like the way they’ve included the selvedge of the cloth as an extra line between the lining and the inbreast pocket, but a customer could easily ask not to have that.
The cloth, by the way, is the 2-ply high-twist woven by Vitale Barberis Canonico that you find in the Drapers Ascot bunch.
It's light grey but with a brown cast, which is something you often see from Italian mills - an effect brought out here by the accompanying brown tie and brown shoes.
I like the effect because it’s warmer than English greys, and makes the suit look less formal. It would still look elegant with black oxfords and a silk tie for a wedding, but could equally be worn casually with an open-necked white shirt and loafers.
Having said that, of the VBC high twists I probably prefer the 4-ply (see my Ciardi suit) for a hot-weather suit, even though it’s heavier.
Weight isn’t everything when it comes to cool cloth.
As Mark Cho of The Armoury commented on our recent Instagram Live interview, a heavier linen can often feel cooler because it clings less, and lets air circulate more easily. Heavier high-twists are the same: more body makes for a fresh, free-flowing material.
The Cornacchia cloth is 280g, while the Ciardi is 390g, yet the latter almost feels cooler.
Photography: Alex Natt @adnatt
Suit worn with:
- Cotton/linen bespoke shirt from 100 Hands
- Knitted silk tie from Drake’s
- Silk handkerchief from Rubinacci
- ‘Belgravia’ tassel loafers from Edward Green
Unfortunately Cornacchia are not currently planning to travel outside of Italy, though they were planning to when this suit was first commissioned.
Thank you Simon!
Coudl you recommend a source for reliable regional tailors throughout Italy? My wife’s family is from Rome / Tuscany and so I spend a lot of time in the two. Would love to find a tailor around this quality and price point but don’t know where to start looking!
Perhaps try Fabio Attanasio’s site, The Bespoke Dudes? He’s covered more of the smaller bespoke tailors in Italy
Sartoria Capobianco in Rome
In Rome Sartoria Ripense is supposed to be good.
As a follow up thought – if your dream is for more men to engage with such local / accessible bespoke – can you cover more of it! Or at least help create a resource that we can refer to so we can find a local tailor where the standard is vaguely acceptable (Whether we be in Portsmouth or Perugia!)
Sure, will do. The only problem is that means covering something like 10 times the number of tailors, and so not with the same level of quality or consistency. But I’m working on it.
Yes, I think there must be a way to harness your network, reputation and the internet to create a database more reliable / curated than ask Andy
I like the suit a lot.Slim fitting style but not tight.In a way it reminds me of my English suits.I know what you mean about heavier cloths.They also have the added advantage of draping better.
Thanks Simon.
How does the suit compare to Vergallo in terms of fit and quality?
Very similar I would say. But a more southern Italian style
Nice suit and lovely chosen colour. I though that Cornacchia use to cut straight lapels instead of bellied as default, though, which I would prefer.
Thanks very much Simon. You raise a really interesting point about local tailors. As someone who is beginning to enter this world – and unable to justify commissions from the premier tailors – it would be really useful to get your thoughts on London tailors who operate at a similar price point.
Prices in London will often be higher – it’s outside that you’ll often pay a lot less.
But I would try someone like Graham Browne, or Whitcomb & Shaftesbury (for different reasons – have a read of all the articles on them for background). Also Prologue, when they can visit again.
What are your thoughts about Anglo Italian’s MTM suits? I am a pupil barrister and would like to purchase 3/4 MTM suits by the end of the year, alongside perhaps 1 or 2 bespoke pieces. Any other tailors/brands I should be aware of?
Lots. But don’t buy that volume that quickly. Do one or two, unless you really need them for work, and learn from your experiences.
I’ll be covering Anglo MTM soon.
Also look at Saman Amel in this price range, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the Anthology and Prologue. All reviewed on this site
Thanks Simon, looking forward to the Anglo MTM review. Typically (pre-COVID), I spend most of my week in court and in a suit. As a young member of the Bar, it still feels entirely inappropriate to wear a suit that attracts attention (obvious pinstripes, checks etc). Therefore, I was hoping to develop my work wardrobe with subtle but well-made options that will endure weekly wear, for the first part of my junior practice.
Seperately, I’ve been an avid reader for well over a year. I appreciate PS is primarily targeted at those with little to no limit on their resources, I echo others who have asked for your coverage on more affordable alternatives. You are an authority on all things mens style and it would be great to get your views on options at the other end of the spectrum!
Thanks.
It sounds like you will be needing a good number of suits then. I would still encourage you to go as slow as you can in new commissions though.
We certainly don’t cover things that are just for people with unlimited budgets – Prologue is semi-bespoke that starts at £1000 for example. And is great. That’s still a lot for a suit of course, but many spend that amount on big-brand suits of worse fit and quality.
In the end, we are focused on great quality, and as a result things will always be expensive. But it’s always worth bearing in mind how much people historically used to spend on clothing like this, and look after it. Even those that wore a suit six days a week, would have no more than three or four (such as my grandfather). And they bought no more than one a year.
Thanks Simon. I will certainly go slower with the commissions than I initially planned. I’m hoping to commission something with Saman Amel and Anglo Italian relatively soon, and hope to round the year off with a Whitcomb commission. I’ll keep my eye out for Prologue & Anthology shows too.
Oh good. If you can, I’d wait until you’ve completed one of those (eg from Anglo) before you try the next
Sage advice. I’ll do that and keep you posted. Thanks Simon.
Hi Simon,
Whilst on the topic of some MTM options in the market such as Anglo Italian, have you considered trying Spier & Mackay? They offer a MTM ‘neapolitan’ style but at SuitSupply prices that I’m very interested in but being based in the UK, it would be pricey to order and potentially have to return items from Canada.
I haven’t to be honest Tom, no. From what I’ve seen it’s not at the level of what we’d normally cover here
Echo excitement on Anglo MTM. Quite want a tweed jacket from them in one of their proprietary cloths
I hear good things about Sims and MacDonald, and their prices are very affordable (you can even pay by installments). At least you’d be getting proper bespoke. There’s also a Greek tailor in Gray’s Inn Road where quite a few barristers go.
Thanks K K, I’ll have a look once I can get back to Chambers.
“The Greek tailor” in the Grays Inn Road is C. Antoniou.
Good point, more of this please Simon.
Thanks for the article Simon, I very much enjoyed the sentiment. In light of what you say here about encouraging us all to make use of good local tailors, there is surely an argument for visiting some in England. You have seemed very resistant to this in the past, but it would surely interest and benefit many of your readers!
Cheers Somalad.
Yes, it’s just for the points made above. Each tailor would be relevant to only a very small number of readers, and in the UK there is the added issue that the styles don’t really vary.
Haha, I think I am one of the ‘eagle-eyed’ commenters on the previous post! Thanks for publishing this, nice result! The cut seems very work-appropriate and I imagine some of the softness would also allow it to transition into more casual territory? Also, why did you go for two buttons as opposed to three or 3-roll-2? Do you know if Nicola has any plans to travel?
I also wholeheartedly support the idea of some sort of reference material on a wider selection of tailors. I understand the potential pitfalls but I think t could be very useful. Also, any plans to cover any Roman tailors?
Yes, the softness would make it easier to wear more casually – eg with an open-necked shirt and loafers perhaps. I wouldn’t wear the high-twist material as a separate jacket though, it’s too sharp for that.
On the buttons, it was just because I liked the 2-button I had seen, and though I would wear it most as a smart summer suit.
As mentioned on travel, Nicola was planning to but I don’t believe he is now. (Aside from the Coronavirus issues)
Nick – good to see another person pushing for some Roman reviews…
Sorry, on Roman tailors, only Gaetano Aloisio, via Bruce
I always wondered whether these bespoke tailors gave a breakup of the cloth and the making
Of the two costs you mean? Generally no, as most don’t like to use cloths that others bring in. But sometimes smaller ones are OK with it. I didn’t actually ask in the case of Cornacchia
Hi Simon
I can’t agree that heavier high twist cloth may cooler than light weight cloth. Refer to spring ram, it is about 480g weight, compare to crispaire, it is much warmer (you can’t wear it in HK weather)
But at the end it is just my personal feeling
Thanks Stanley.
It’s certainly personal, though Spring Ram is particularly heavy.
Perhaps we can say that a lighter-weight cloth isn’t always, or necessarily, cooler. Which is what a lot of people would assume I think.
“The Cornacchia cloth is 280g, while the Ciardi is 390g, yet the former almost feels cooler.”
I think you meant the latter almost feels cooler.
Ah yes. Thank you, I’ll correct that
Lovely looking suit. Just wondering, were you in the area or on vacation? And if on vacation, did you have your initial measurements and first fitting done all ok that trip or did you return for the fitting?
Puglia is a lovely part of the country. My grandmother was born in Trepuzzi (near Lecce), so I occasionally go there for vacation. It’s a relaxing spot with wonderful food and interesting history. A “trulli wonderful” experience, one might say! Given the value I’d be tempted to try out this tailor next time I’m over there.
I went there for work actually, to visit them and other tailors. But we did take a couple of days off.
The fitting was done in Florence. Worth asking them whether they can put together at least one fitting while you’re there on holiday. Small outfits often can.
Puglia (and the South of Italy in general) moves at a much slower pace than the big cities in the US and England. Which makes for a nice place to “get away from it all” – as long as you avoid the hottest months of the year. I’ve always found the people friendly, the food delicious, the scenery beautiful (if a bit on the wild side). The local dialects are also interesting (I’m fluent in Italian but have a hard time making any of it out…)
Are this and similar light greys suitable for more casual fridays at work?
Yes I would say so, though depends on your office rather. Also, nicest in the summer
I have a Neapolitan suit in the VBC/drapers Ascot 4 ply (quarter lined) and have to say I feel quite warm in it even at this time (May/June) in the UK. Even with a linen shirt I find it hard to keep the jacket on especially in the sun. I was really hoping to move to crispaire for feeling cooler but your comment is making me doubt that decision. Ultimately, I guess in very hot weather, no suit can really keep you cool. I also don’t find 13oz linen any cooler than the 13 oz VBC 4ply, if anything I feel cooler when there’s a gust of wind with the VBC. The only thing that can really save you is the shade and not being outside for too long.
True.
I also find an open neck, bare ankles and a covered head make a big difference – as discussed here. Not all those are office appropriate though…
I’ve experimented with most, if not all, of the “summer” cloths over the years, but keep coming back to Smith Finmeresco 4 ply.
For me, it is the optimal balance between breathability and drape.
I might be wrong, but there’s part of that book that’s the same as the Drapers I think, all woven by VBC
That’s interesting Simon. Are you saying you think some (or all) of Finmeresco is made outside the UK?
No, I was just told that part of the bunch was woven by VBC and is the same as the Drapers selection. But again, I might be wrong and I’m checking now.
It’s not unusual for VBC to make for English merchants. A good few English flannels are made by them.
Super combination that.
To nitpick a tad, it looks slightly off at the trouser end to me; I’d have wanted the leg about ½” longer and its cuff about ½” shorter. But that’s really just personal preference in the end (ha!).
I assume the tie is not grenadine, otherwise you’d have mentioned it. It looks like an equally interesting texture if not. And the colour (of the tie) is spot on with the shirt and jacket.
Bravo.
Cheers. And no, it’s a knitted silk – the square-ended kind
simon, a few points:
– “If Permanent Style could achieve anything, I’d love it if it could encourage men to seek out local tailors such as this, realise the great value they get, and understand enough about design to make informed decisions about the suit’s style”. brace yourself for readers claiming more (any) local english tailors reviews
– design wise i think is one of your best. you look really well balanced and proportioned. it would be good to see how they manage to make a casual jacket.
– you could make a post focusing on one tailor (e.g. caliendo) and detailing what has been improved throughout the different commissions
Thanks. Yes I know – I was rather hoping they’d do a little of it on their own! And then report back I guess
Nice idea on the commissioning progress
What about UK regional?
See comments above…
This is a fantastic article! Learning about small, but high quality tailors outside of large cities is wonderful. That brown knit tie is a very nice touch.
Your followers are often asking you to try more and varied tailors, and to your point this limits the ability to develop a meaningful and productive relationship with tailor(s) that you can achieve over time. I very much enjoy your posts, but as someone with a very different stature than yours, it might be helpful if you involved other colleagues in your bespoke journey. It could result in showcasing more tailors and allow those of a us shorter in size a more relevant perspective. Just a thought, love your work.
Thanks Robert, and that is a good point.
Perhaps interviews with others of different statures – the cuts they like and the tailors they like, would be interesting?
Similar in some respects to the questions in this piece with Ethan.
I find it unusual you mention wearing a high twist suit without a tie. Not that I’m nitpicking, but I believe you have mentioned being against wearing suits without ties, perhaps except linens. Have you changed your opinion on that? If this is the case, could you elaborate on that topic?
Hi Karol,
No you’re right, a high-twist is a relatively smart summer fabric, and I would wear a tie with it the vast majority of the time. A summer suit in cotton or linen would also be more casual, and more suited to being tieless.
But that doesn’t mean I’d never wear one without a tie. I’d just have those factors in my mind. So for example, I’d be more likely to with a high-twist that was more casual in colour (eg not a dark grey). And probably with a smarter shirt – like a plain white.
As with most things, it’s a general piece of advice, rather than a hard rule. The key thing is always just to understand why that advice, tradition, convention etc might exist. Then do what you want with it.
Thanks
Hey Simon, lovely suit for summer. What is the cloth ref code? Isn’t it 250g rather than 280g?
From VBC it’s 595 in the Rustic range. I don’t have the code for the Drapers equivalent
What about the weight? Isn’t it 250g rather than 280g?
I thought it was 280, but I’m checking
Is it this one?
https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com/fabrics/595-401-2/
https://drapersitaly.it/us-en/collection/4223/
No I don’t think so. It’s paler and more browned than that. I’ll confirm with VBC
I’m wrong, sorry Stanford. It is that cloth. I think the images I have are better on showing the colour though
Very nice suit, Simon, and quite elegant. The three-quarter profile view shows it best. It drapes nicely, and even the creases on the trousers are perfect. And I like the brown in the grey cloth very much.
I also admire and appreciate how keen you are about finding small tailoring establishments and patronizing them. Often, one finds skilled workers in places that are not brand names. It’s always a pleasure to have a garment made by someone like that.
Not your best piece but better than some costing a few multiples of its price. I’d much rather develop a relationship with a local tailor of solid skill than a top-of-the line house overseas that travels to me twice a year. I’d even more rather just live in Italy…
Just a personal anecdote about provincial tailors – it was your coverage of Sartoria Vergallo that allowed me to find them and I’m on my second commission with them now. I really doubt I’d have heard of them without this website, and I don’t think I have the internet sleuthing skills to find small tailors worth visiting. The most you’ll find are Yelp reviews, an odd forum post here or there, and perhaps a website put up by the tailor themselves, but I need more reliable information than that before I spend 2000 Euros. I’m currently living in a rural part of Germany, so I would have to travel no matter what to find a tailor, and going to Vergallo is actually easier than going to London or Naples. I would be happy to visit a German / Belgian / Dutch tailor if they came with a recommendation that I could trust. I’m sure there are decent tailors in Cologne or Brussels, for example.
Since cost is always a factor – I’m not sure if I would have gone through with a bespoke purchase through the more expensive tailors you typically cover. The combination of your seal of approval and price point makes Cornacchia a tailor I would actually consider using if I want another bespoke piece. All of this is to say that if your aim is to get more people into bespoke who would otherwise think that they couldn’t access it from a cost or location perspective, then more posts like this would help people like me.
This is just speaking for myself of course – I’m not sure how many other readers are in a similar position, and of course, I’m in no position to say which geographic area would yield the best results in terms of coverage.
In Cologne I can personally recommend Sebastian Hoofs, though his prices are higher and his style is definitely not Italian.
Hi Adam,
may I ask where you are from in Germany? Do you regularly travel to Varese or is Vergallo coming to Germany? Is 2.000 € the actual price? I live in the northern part of Bavaria and have the same problem – not having local tailors around adds a substantial amount to the total bill: extra cost for travelling easily sum up to 1.000 € per suit (assuming you don’t order multiple suits for the first and second comission) -beside the fact you have to convince your wife and children that visiting this particular lovely Italian town for the fifth and sixth time is a must.
As far as I know Sartoria Togni from Verona travels to Munich as well as Prologue from Hong Kong, but haven’t tried them personally.
Hi Philipp. I live in North-Rhine Westphalia. Vergallo doesn’t come to Germany, but I can catch a direct flight to Milan and then a train from the airport straight to Varese, so, it’s about as convenient as I’m going to find. Flights here are much cheaper than I’m used to (I’m Canadian) so if you’re careful about when you travel, and if you make it into a weekend trip to Lake Como or somewhere else, then it’s not so bad. I don’t have children, but my girlfriend approves of these trips.
At my last visit, prices started at EUR 1800 for a sports coat and EUR 2200 for an overcoat. Not sure about suit prices. I think they’ve paused their operations as they were in an area very hard hit by COVID, and I’m not sure if they’ve reopened yet.
The suit looks lovely except for the area around the shoulder blades, but then again, getting the shoulders just right would be my main reason to go bespoke, so if I had commissioned this suit, I would be slightly disappointed.
Simon, if even wearing a navy jacket looks too formal and out of place in one’s city, what are some alternative jackets? Tweed?
Do you mainly wear an overcoat in the rain Simon or a raincoat?
Other colours of jacket – browns, greens – and in other wools, but not necessarily tweed.
I wear an overcoat if it’s cold enough. And a hat
Thanks! What kinds of wool are you referring to?
I assume you don’t mean the kind of wool – like merino, lambswool, shetland etc. You mean what will the cloth be called, like tweed? It won’t have a name. It will just be a wool jacketing. There is no easy naming here.
Have a look at our Guide to Cloth (under ‘Guides’ in the menu) and jacketings to get a sense of what you are looking for when you look at those wools
@Simon – two questions, the first more general. I notice in these shots something I’ve observed in some of your other posts- namely that the sleeve cuff appears to be cut on an angle, i.e. not perpendicular to the shirt cuff. If this is the case, is it particular to a certain type of tailoring, a style choice or other? Second, and more specific to this commission you mentioned that a customer could requested the selvedge not be present but were you made aware they were going to do this ahead of time? If not, doesn’t that mean the customer only discovers it when it’s essentially “too late”?
Hey
The sleeve cuff isn’t cut on an angle, no, and neither is the shirt cuff. It’s just the way the two hang together. Also exaggerated a little by the photos – it’s not something you would notice in person.
You’re right on the selvedge though, yes. It is something the tailor does by default, so most of the time the customer wouldn’t realise until it was too late. They would have to see a suit made, and request not to have that aspect of it.
Another terrific article, Thankyou!
This would have to be one of my favourite suits I’ve seen you cover, the high twist wool appeals to a hot climate such as my homeland Australia and the style has both a smart casual element w the patch pockets and Neapolitan style (maybe could be used as a separate?!) but also could be perfect for a summer wedding. I could see this as a very comfortable work style in a darker shade/colour..if only they were local!
Yes, I agree it would be really nice for those occasions. Though I wouldn’t use it as a separate, no
Sorry if I’ve missed this but is the suit only partially lined and if so does this make an appreciable difference in hot weather?
Yes it is, and yes it makes a small difference.
Reading about this Italian tailor brought to mind a recent discussion I had about the current financial situation; it is said that in ancient Rome one ounce of gold would get you a pretty decent toga and pair pair of shoes. Gold today is around €1500 an ounce so – what is the historic gold/suit ratio? How was it fifty or a hundred years ago? Gold still looks pretty cheap to me.
Thanks a lot for all the informative articles and comments, including this one! I noticed your comment about the jacket (and trousers?) being too sharp/formal for separate wear. I am having the fitting for my first bespoke suit one of these days (at The Anthology/Taipei), and that piece of observation was highly relevant. You see, my current top choice for fabric is dark navy high-twist (probably Smith’s 310g 3-ply). However, I would very much like to be able to wear the pieces of the suit separately. I guess I’m the kind of person who wants to achieve everything with only one all-round suit (for personal-economic and environmental reasons). I have realized after some research that this is impossible, but I would still like to cover as many applications as I possible. Being able to wear the two pieces separately is thus obviously an important consideration. Actually, I think it would be even if I weren’t this obsessed with squeezing the most I can out of one suit, since a suit is a somewhat archaic attire, and I will probably end up using the jacket mostly separately in any case.
What fabric and secondarily colour would you recommend? With cotton I’m thinking odour (or too frequent cleaning) will be an issue, whereas with silk/linen/wool blend I’m afraid the trousers will perform poorly. Heavy wool will be too hot.
Btw, I first wrote a draft for this comment that turned waaay too long, so tell me if you need any additional information.
Thanks Gunnar. I completely understand that desire. But I would say, if you feel you’re compromising your choices in any way to try and achieve that, don’t. It’s a much bigger waste to create some kind of hybrid that is good in no situation.
The only things that I think are easy here are cottons, linens, some tweeds/wools and heavier hopsacks. The Anthology guys will be able to give good advice there.
But as I said, if in doubt at all, just get a great navy suit. You will get a lot of wear out of it, for a long time.
One of my most versatile suits is a navy 3 piece in heavy hopsack. The waistcoat only gets used a couple of times a year, but comes in handy for weddings and similar events. And the jacket has enough texture to work well as a separate (works very well with grey high twist; not so much with jeans). That said, I’ve never used either the trousers or the waistcoat as separates.
Thanks.
I’d be interested in how the trousers work – that would be the piece I’d worry about on its own. In terms of look, keeping a crease, and longevity
The hopsack jacket has enough texture to fit well over high twist or flannel trousers. I’ve also worn it a couple of times over chinos (mainly cream or olive colored), although it looks better over wool. But wearing the trousers by themselves doesn’t really work; it’s hard to avoid making them look like an orphaned part of a suit.
In order to have a genuine three-way navy suit, I think you would have to get it in cotton. But hopsack is ultimately more versatile because it better bridges the gap between business and non-business wear. E..g., if I’m on a trip, I can wear it as a suit to a client meeting and then pair the jacket with grey trousers for dinner. And unlike cotton, hopsack wool is very wrinkle resistant. A cotton suit is nice, but doesn’t look professional. At least not in the legal profession in the city I live in.
Yes, I can see that.
Thanks. I guess the trousers would be OK at a push with a shirt and knitwear, if you’re not meeting people etc
Hi Simon. I like this warm light-grey colour of the suit. And nice combination with the brown knit tie. You mentioned to me before in a previous question about tie widths and lapel widths, that sometimes the general rule of somewhat matching widths between the two can be disregarded. The contrast can look nice. I think this outfit is a good example of that point. I am guessing the knit tie is 6 or 6.5 cm in width and the lapels are 9 cm?
My question is, in what specific instances do you disregard that general rule? Is it mainly when wearing square-end silk knit ties, since they are the same width from top to bottom?
Hi. Thanks, pleased you like it.
I wouldn’t say the rule should be disregarded necessarily, more that it is something to understand and be aware of, rather than follow all the time.
As long as you’re aware that the two can look odd if they are very different, that’s all that matters. Then make your own decisions every day on what you like, with all this information and experience in mind.
It doesn’t bother me at all here, for example, that the slim knitted tie is different to the lapel widths (8.5cm). Partly because that’s the width knitted silks come in. Partly because the lapels aren’t that big. And partly because the other aspects of the suit aren’t huge either – eg the shoulders.
The point to be most aware of it, and worry, is when there are extremes. Like wearing a very narrow, small-knotted tie with a big Sexton or Michael Browne jacket. Then it becomes much more of a look – which isn’t necessarily bad, but is something you should be aware of and think about.
Cheers
Please could you provide information about your shirt cloth? I have a difficult time finding linen cotton mixes that are not transparent.
This is no longer available I dont think, but was from Thomas Mason.
However, I’ve found cotton/linens to be pretty similar to each other – this is no less transparent than others. It’s fine for me (unlike some fine linens)
Simon,
Excellent article, and a great point about how most towns/cities had a number of good local tailors, now sadly mostly gone. (and these days with many suit wearers being home, and the decline of major retailers/fashion houses, even RTW is suffering).
Your point about a 2nd, 3rd fitting becoming even better, how many examples of same have you personally experienced, and could perhaps write an article about them. It would be great to learn what you did, regarding what improved the 2nd, or 3rd time, how you changed what you asked of them, etc.
Nice idea, thanks.
Simon,
While I enjoy your posts about Italian tailoring, I am not fond of the short trouser lengths I’ve seen, preferring instead the British drape across the shoes.
Can you say if most Italian houses would happily honor such a request or consider it to be in bad taste?
It depends a little how long we’re talking Dennis, but most of the time I think it would be fine
Are there any good Dutch tailors?
Hi Simon, the 2ply looks great. I may just have a suit made with that one day.
And going off topic: do you think a 2-piece suit with bellied peak lapels (more like Pini Parma than Nutter / Sexton) and a 3 roll 2 would go well together? A friend of mine says the buttonhole may obstruct the design but I’m not sure…
Hi John,
Thanks, it is a great cloth.
On your proposed suit, I think I would be with your friend, but more just from a style point of view. A peak lapel like that is quite sharp and smart, while a 3-roll-2 is the opposite. I’d be more likely to go with a two button there.
Although, the risk of the two clashing is far less with a Neapolitan maker than an English one, as I think you see already.
Cheers
The background makes such a difference in how I perceive the fabric’s color, specifically the warmth of the color!
Hi Simon,
I wanted to re-watch your interview with Mark Cho, but it doesn’t appear in your Instagram Live archive. Your others—with Alan Flusser, the Saman Amel lads, Scott Schuman et al do—but not that one, I’m afraid.
Hi,
Most of them don’t unfortunately. Until recently, Instagram wasn’t allowing Live chats to be posted on IGTV, so it wasn’t possible to see them after 24 hours. That rule only changed a couple of months ago.
You mention the the suit being a warmer grey, and that is readily apparent in the pictures. In one then it almost look like a light tan. I have noticed that many greys either have a warm cast or a cool cast. How is that effect achieved? Do they weave browns or creams in the grey for a warm effect? Blues for a cooler effect? Most navy suits are just that, navy. Greys almost always seem to have multiple colors of grey woven in, and occasionally other colors as well…
Yes, it’s a good point. Greys are nearly always achieved with a melange of colours. Usually the cast of the grey comes from the greys and whites that are used in the yarn though – creamier whites, warmer greys – rather than adding in extra colours.
I have a suit in the 4 ply version of this cloth and think of it as “greige.” In some light it looks more grey and in other light almost beige or sand coloured. I find though that it really needs a bright, sunny day to look at its best, on cloudy or overcast days it can get a bit lost because the colour is quite subtle.
I know what you mean. I find a white shirt helps quite a lot in that regard – you need a bit of contrast with it
I’ll try that. I find light blue doesn’t work well with this suit because there isn’t enough contrast unless there is very bright sun.
Yes exactly
Hi Simon ,
Could you please explain me how could anyone recognise a hand padded collar in a jacket ? Thanks
Turn up the collar, and look on its reverse. You should see pinpricks of cloth coming through the melton on the underside there. They will be scattered and irregular.
Simon , thank you for yoyr reply . I usually ask for self fabric uder the collar . I undesrtand about the pinpricks that you said and it is noticable in the lightweigts jackets , but what about the heavyweight fabrics such as Harris Tweed’s ? Is there any way to recognise if the collar is hand padded ? Thank you.
Only that way really – you should probably still be able to see the pricks, but yes Harris Tweed won’t be easy if there’s lots of colours in the yarn
Hi,very nice suit.Would it be possible for you to do a post on wearing a suit without a tie in summer?Like you I was very reluctant to adopt this style but recently wore a tan cotton suit with your light blue button down shirt.It felt fine and I did’nt feel bereft with the loss of a tie.I also have a light grey POW check suit that looks equally well with the same shirt without a tie.Even though the suit is wool the pattern and light colour complement casual tieless look.
As for shoes the Sagan loafer in Lusitania
dark brown looks good with the suit or another cemented soled loafer would proberbly look equally as good.Would you wear a Goodyear welted loafer with this outfit?Would be good to hear your opinion.Thanks Paul.
Yes I would Paul.
For me, the key is that the suit looks casual – usually both colour and material. It also helps if it’s hot, as there’s a more obvious, practical reason for going without a tie.
How long is the jacket? Do you like the length or find it a little short?
I do find it a little short, yes. I would have it a little longer if I did it again
“If Permanent Style could achieve anything ….it could encourage men to seek out local tailors…”
Simon, I have spent countless hours reading your archived reviews. I have learned a great deal. But this statement is as important as any. I am 60, live in the states and have used the same tailor shop since 1995. My current tailor is the apprentice of the original Neapolitan tailor who recently retired. Is he as good as Frank Shattuck? Unlikely. Does he have the style of a SR shop? Suspect not. The flare of The Anthology or Prologue? Doubtful. The fine top stitching of Cifonelli? Nope. But over the years I have helped his house style move away from that of a Brooks Brothers sack suit. As importantly I have helped a local business stay relevant in a struggling industry. He told me with Covid he is struggling to keep his staff and cover the rent. So last week I dug deep and asked him to whip up a couple jackets for me using W Bill fabric inspired by your WW Chan tweed commission. Turn around time? About 3 weeks. No trunk shows. No remote fittings. And if there is an issue, his shop is 10 minutes away. Not all the commissions have been perfect. Especially early on. But a recent linen jacket had a beautiful Milanese button hole. And a stylish split yoke half lining.
As I read these posts describing flights from major European cities to Naples and London for fittings I think “why aren’t these guys trying to cultivate a local relationship?”. Are there no tailors on the continent outside of Naples who might benefit from a little “modernization”? How is this even possible?
For 2021 I hope you will now and again re-iterate the point you have made in this review. All the best. Keep up the good work. We’re out here.
Thanks a lot Robert.
To be honest, the answer in my experience is that no, there aren’t many decent ones, even around Europe. I’ve visited five in Portugal and Spain for example, and covered all of them. But I’d only really recommend one (Calvo de Mora).
I assume you also saw this post on local UK tailors. It was a shame that very few readers recommended local places, as you can see.
Can I suggest, request even, that you say here who your tailor is in the same way – their prices, style etc, so others can benefit? No one ever seems to do that.
Thanks
Hey Simon-
Thank you for asking. The shop is Flors Tailor in Atlanta (www.florstailor.com). Teo Flor is the tailor and cutter. He does all the measuring and all the cutting. Previously he worked with now retired Mario Bosco. Teo renamed and relocated the shop. Everything by hand (paper patterns, lining, armholes, chest, floating canvas, hand padded lapels, collar, buttonholes, etc). Only darts and side seams done by machine. Nothing outsourced. From start to finish your garment never leaves the shop.
Few clients get a house style since as Teo says “…95% know what they want so I tailor what they request…” For example, recently I requested spalla camicia shoulders (which I learned of on this site).
I remember a house style from an original suit 20 years ago which had a 3.5 ” low gorge lapel, 3 roll 2, moderate shoulder padding without roping, no pleats and (unfortunately) quite capacious sleeves and pant legs. Decidedly unmodern. Pretty middle of the road. But for some guys this may be all they’re looking for. Probably not your audience however.
Prices in line with London or Europe. A jacket is $2200. A suit is $2800. For a vest add $750. Obviously fabric dependent.
He is easy to work with. His shop isn’t glamorous. No bourbon or whiskey bar. I have taken him a couple P Zileri MTM suits (which I know you have covered) and asked him to copy some of the detailing for bespoke commissions which he reproduced perfectly. Over the years either with Bosco or Teo I have commissioned 4 topcoats, 5 suits and probably 5 jacket/vest combinations. He is best if you have a clear idea of a style or even an “inspirational” garment which he can draw upon or outright copy in a higher end fabric. In this way he says he is “true bespoke” because he tailors exactly what the client asks for.
Hope this is helpful. Keep up the great work. Really love what you do here.
Thanks Robert, that is very helpful indeed
Hey Simon-
On another note, above you refer to the belly of the lapel as making the suit “…look more like a ready made style…”.
Can you elaborate? Doesn’t sound like a belly on a lapel is a positive.
Stylistically does a belly suggest off the rack rather than bespoke? If so, I might need to re-think the lapel ( I have typically requested a slight belly on my bespoke commissions thinking it added a custom look) .
Sorry, that’s not quite what I meant. I meant that the little belly on it makes the suit look more like RTW Italian brands – just in terms of the style. It’s within the context of the points above, where I say tailors need to look contemporary as well as make well, and Cornacchia does this. So it’s good thing in that way.
Having belly or not doesn’t universally make a suit look off the rack, at all. Also, I’d say it’s not the most important reason to select style points. Just go for a style you like instead. Down that road lies things like coloured buttonholes or bright linings, to try and show off that something is personalised.
Now we’re coming out of lockdown I really want to cheer myself up with a suit for the summer months. Preferably a two piece for days at Lords, Wimbledon and the odd summer wedding. I’ve always played it pretty safe and prefer to wear quality with modesty. However, I do want to have a bit of fun with this one and therein lies the problem. I don’t really know where to turn on cut, material, colour or even tailor.
Based on your experience could you recommend a tailor who might be well suited to providing me with a lightweight summer suit. I thought your suit from Sartoria Cornacchia looked really smart. Quite close to what I might be after. Given that getting to Italy will be a bit tricky this year, is there a London based tailor who might be able to provide a similar cut or who you would recommend?
Hi Harry,
It’s hard to give advice on tailor without a clear idea of the style you’re after. But if Cornacchia looks good to you, you want an Italian make, which is very hard in London at the moment with no Italians travelling here. The closest you might get is MTM from Anglo-Italian.
In terms of suit ideas, most things lighter and paler would be quite fun and great in warm weather. Here are some suggestions from mine that you can click through to and see:
– Cream linen (and cream jacket on its own)
– Biscuit-coloured linen
– Biscuit/taupe cotton
– Yellow cotton
“The collar could do with being a little closer on the neck, and the shoulders lifted up slightly (visible on the back, not the front). The right side at the front could also do with being picked up a touch, and the armhole cleared. ” Could this be altered on the current (finished) suit or only when making a second one?
The collar potentially could be squared a little, but the shoulders can’t really be lifted up at this stage.
Hey Simon what type of pick stitching is this jacket? I’m planning on a high twist summer grey suit and I’m wondering if I should do more casual 1/4 inch stitching.
Hey Joel. By what type, do you mean how far away from the edge? It’s just under a quarter inch.
I’m not sure pick stitching will make much of a difference to how casual your suit is, but it could be a nice touch of handwork, if you like that.
Simon, what about a high buttoning point do you think makes a jacket look more contemporary? Thanks.
It’s more the trend you see in mainstream suits, on the high street and so on.
Simon,
I just came across this post and I am pleased to report that PS has in fact led me to try a small local tailor for my first ever commission. The other options were fairly expensive MTM outfits and bigger name bespoke tailors which were out of my price range. So I went to a small shop, run by a tailor nearly 80 years old. Three fittings later I have a gorgeous tweed jacket for the same price as some of the more expensive MTM you have covered. It was still a big investment, but I felt much more secure in making it with someone who has decades of experience.
Discussions around style were interesting. The jacket was initially short, as the tailor figured I, being younger, would prefer it and I think he was relieved I asked to lengthen it during the basted fitting. The lapel is quite wide (just over 4 inches), which we both agreed it should be. The only point of discussion was the number of buttons. I had initially wanted a 3-roll-2. He initially agreed, but then cut only two buttenholes, something which I actually agree looks much better in the end. I just think it suits the style of the jacket more. I cannot quite say why.
Anyway, small digression to say that PS does achieve this goal of yours!
Fantastic, that’s great to hear. Sounds like the only thing that could be improved is communication between you and the tailor – which I’m sure would be easier if there were a second time.
Lovely suit
I happen to have just placed an order for a suit with the same colour of cloth in 4-ply from the Ascot bunch with Ring Jacket in Japan when I stumbled across this article!
Have you ever styled the coat or trousers separately with other pieces of clothing and have you had any difficulty in doing so?
Any recommendations or articles on the site that give tips with styling this colour are highly welcome!
I wouldn’t wear the jacket separately myself, as it’s not really designed as a jacket. But if you were going to, you’d need trousers that were equally as smart/sharp.
The trousers work wonderfully though. Particularly nice with a white shirt and brown shoes in summer
what do you mean by the armhole can be cleared?
Fabric at that point in the chest, near the bottom of the armhole, often folds and wrinkles when the armhole is a little too high
Hello Simon, you wouldn’t happen to know the cloth reference for this fabric, would you? I really like the warm brown colour. Many thanks in advance
This specific one is no longer available Peter (there is a link to it in the comments above) but it is the 2-ply from Drapers in the Ascot bunch. I’d suggest trying to see that bunch, that ply, and pick a grey you like
Good morning Simon….because of how you looked in your light gray summer suit it became a must for me..i thank you..i planning to wear it probably this Sunday in church…enjoy your week..peace
Wonderful, thank you Kenneth. Enjoy!
I was also inspired by this post to have a similar suit made, in a 220g high twist by Sartoria Vestrucci. They do like to cut a slim trouser, and I do wonder if it would cling to my calves less had I chosen a heavier cloth, as you advise here.
Could you widen them a bit?
I am. I think it’s simply that their house style of trouser doesn’t suit the shape of my legs.
In your post about Japanese trouser makers, one of them discusses how the typical East Asian body shape differs from the typical European body shape, and that he cuts his patterns to reflect that. Jerry from Prologue told me much the same thing, and that it even extends to shoe lasts.
Thanks. Yes I can certainly see that, though I would have thought it would be a relatively small point with trousers. Perhaps not though – it’s not something obviously I’ve experienced myself
My personal experience has been that, after one or two fittings, a jacket is 80–90% of the way there, whereas trousers require more fittings to get to the point where I’m happy with both appearance and comfort.
Thanks, interesting to hear
Thanks for this article, it’s been really helpful for me in my attempt at getting my own light grey summer suit to look better.
I was wondering why you chose to wear brown socks in this outfit, is there something off about wearing light grey socks?
Pale colours of sock can often be a little showy and stand out. I’d want a shade of grey that was clearly a little darker than the suit if I could, and these socks are kind of nice, being a grey/brown
I’m astonished to actually get a reply, thank you so much, that’s really amazing, I’m quite impressed and will spend the rest of my time off looking for those exact socks ? thanks again I really appreciate all the work you put in.
Not at all Maarten, always happy to reply – ask anything else when it comes up
Do you know if Cornacchia can cut a more typical southern Italian straight lapel with 3 roll 2 buttoning? I know from many of your articles not to ask a tailor to change their house style but I was not sure whether the two button style he made for you is his house style or just one of several styles he can cut.
I ask because Cornacchia is very conveniently located for me, as I visit Bari twice a year to see family there, and out of the tailors you cover he is one of the more affordable ones for me. There’s also something appealing to me about using a small provincial Italian tailor.
I think they can, yes, but if you’re close I would try and go and see them and say you’d be interested in trying to see that style
Thanks Simon, I will try to combine a visit with a trip to Altamura. I think a 3 roll 2 while otherwise keeping the cut as they made it for you would make a smart, versatile suit. Distinctly southern Italian but without going full Neapolitan.
I agree. Hope it goes well Alan
Hi Simon
Could you perhaps tell me how much bespoke 100 Hands shirts cost? A range would be nice!
Thanks
I haven’t had something for a while I’m afraid Rejath, you’d have to check with them
Hi Simon,
Really nice suit. I will have something very very similar at my wedding this summer (Vitale Barberis Canonico – light brown, which is a light brown to grey kind of). What shoe type/color do you suggest? hard to decide between black/dark brown (like in your pictures)/burgundy loafers. The event will start 17:30, so kind of a daytime wedding/more informal. Would black (loafers) be a bit too formal/office? I also like the warmth effect which your brown shoes give to the suit.
Also, do you suggest socks with loafers or without? tie or only pocket square? 😀 any color suggestions to match with the shoes?
I aim towards something at the limit between informal and formal. A bit daring but not too much :).
Many thanks in advance,
George
Hey George,
Sounds nice. My instinct would be black loafers, or very dark brown if not. I would definitely wear socks (sockless is far too casual) and I would wear a tie (it is meant to be an important occasion after all). You can always take that off later if you wish