The new Lightweight Friday Polo
![](https://www.permanentstyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/navy-on-navy-tailoring-509x770.jpg)
This is the lovely - and reader-driven - new version of the Lightweight Friday Polo.
The version we did last summer, in white piqué, was popular and sold out, but several readers commented that it was a little too transparent for them.
So this year we’ve done it in a navy version of the same material. This has the benefits of being very breathable, but indicating nothing of the body or chest hair beneath.
Other than the cloth, it is exactly the same as the classic Friday Polo.
Proper shirt collar to stand up under a tailored jacket; long body to wear tucked in; reinforced placket (as per last year’s upgrade).
It also has all the handwork of the Friday Polo, which is one of the key things that separates it from the vast majority of polo shirts. Hand-attached collar, hand-attached sleeve, and then hand-sewn buttonholes and buttons.
A piece of Neapolitan craftsmanship, made specifically to wear under light elegant tailoring - such as my hopsack jacket here.
I find navy is particularly good with dark-coloured jackets, such as navy, charcoal and brown, but also works very well on its own.
It's the most useful colour of polo I wear on holiday, for example, because it goes with every colour of trouser or short. White is second.
In the pictures it is worn with a smart combination of jacket, light-grey Crispaire trousers and Sagan loafers.
The handkerchief in the jacket is cream silk, and the Sagans black - though dark brown would work equally well.
Personally, my favourite way to wear it is shown below, without the jacket and with only invisible socks under the Sagans. It feels very relaxed, yet still elegant.
One of the things I don’t say enough, by the way, is how thankful I am to those that support Permanent Style by shopping on the site.
While advertising is the bedrock of our income, it is the little design projects like the Friday Polo that make PS what it is today. It is this funding that enables continuous publishing of in-depth editorial, for free.
Konrad Olsson, founder of Scandinavian Man magazine, recently wrote a great editorial in it about media and fashion. One of things he said was that he believed in the future, retail would fund editorial.
I agree. The PS Shop will never be big - indeed, the current size is just fine - but it is probably the most reliable way of funding a site like this in the long term. And it enables me to plug little gaps in menswear, which is enjoyable.
So thank you. And I hope you can forgive the occasional interruption to our scheduled broadcasting.
The Lightweight Friday Polo is available to buy on the PS Shop site here. All details on fit, materials and care are also there.
If you have any questions you can't see the answer to, please do add a comment below and I’ll add the information to the shop page as well.
The Lightweight Polo is slightly more expensive than the regular version, reflecting an increase in cost of materials. I like to be transparent on pricing points like this as much as possible, rather than sneaking them in.
Thank you, once more. Here’s hoping you find plenty of opportunities to wear the new polo during a long and warm summer.
Simon
The PS Shop page for the polo is here
Photography: James Holborow
Hi Simon,
I’m always excited about your collaboration projects and just about always get in on them (XS size needed for shorts) whenever possible. They do fill in certain gaps in menswear as you mentioned, and you do a wonderful job in closing that gap.
Also, I appreciate the communication and transparency on your pricing, which help both your reader and customer on the PS Shop understand better what they are paying for or the need for price increases from a previous edition or batch.
I look forward to your upcoming projects and reading your latest sartorial guide.
Cheers!
Oh good, nice to hear Neil.
I try to do the same on things like shipping too. We prefer to spell out shipping costs, rather than include them in the price and then heavily promote the fact that shipping is free.
Though we do cover return shipping costs, so that is worked in.
Hi Simon, looks great and certainly fills a gap in my wardrobe.
However, is there a short sleeve version in the works? Any update on this?
No, sorry. It’s hard to offer too many variables, and we decided to prioritise this given how many other short-sleeve polos there are out there
Hi Simon,
I received this polo today and it’s great! The cloth wears cooler (much better for a tropical weather country) and the deep navy cloth has a beautiful, soft and luxurious handle to it.
The polo is well-made, elegant and comfortable to wear. I have tried other long-sleeve by other makers where the cloth is a more rigid and as such does not feel as comfortable.
I own other Friday Polos from previous editions and have to say this is by far the best and most satisfying iteration of its kind.
I wonder if you might consider doing a short-sleeve with a shorter length (tuck-in/tuck-out) in navy and white (if there’s a way to make it less translucent).
Great job, Simon!
Thank you Neil, it’s so nice to hear your experience of the Friday Polo has been so good.
For the moment I’ve decided not to do short-sleeved polos, just because there is so much out there that’s similar
I don’t think the retail-funding-journalism idea should become the norm. I think for you it works, since you develop your own products. But The Rake sells products from existing brands, the same brands they write their always-glowing articles about. I don’t doubt their sincere appreciation of those quality products, but if the majority of the magazine consists of articles praising these products, should this really be called journalism? At the risk of being unfair, much of it strikes me as self-initiated copywriting.
As a reader, I’d be happy to pay a subscription fee for articles that warrant rereading, i.e. articles that really go into art/philosophy/sociology/history rather than just celebrate products.
Yes, I think magazines have to find the right balance, and some go too far towards the retail side. And no you’re right, that isn’t journalism – that’s talking about the products, like today’s post here.
The subscription model is an interesting one. I’d like to try it in a small way sometime, but it is very risky I think for magazines these days.
I read PS 3 times a week, and have done for at least 5 years now. I would not, however, use a paywall… I am not that inelastic a consumer!
Great to see this. One comment I’ll make, in case it helps inform future designs, is that I find the sleeves on the Friday polo shirts a little too short for me. Interestingly the sleeve was better on the Dartmoor polo.
Hmm, ok good feedback on the Friday Polo fit, thank you
Chancellor, I find a gentle pull on the sleeves straight out of the washer help a great deal with this.
Simon, if I could say one thing maybe increase the cuff size a bit? On the polos bought through your shop in the largest size, I find I can barely get the cuff closed. I usually wear them unbuttoned as a result. Not a huge deal but perhaps something to consider. Might be I’m a minority.
Simon, all measurements of this light Friday polo looks perfect for me – except that the chest of my other bespoke shirts are measured to be 104cm. Your size S is 102cm while your M is 106 cm. What’s your suggestion?
I wouldn’t worry too much about 2cm here or there – the pique has stretch in it, unlike a normal shirting cotton, so you’re unlikely to notice. I would buy whichever of the S or M fits the perfect measurements elsewhere you mention
Thank you so much Simon. I ordered a S anyway!
If I were to order, the sleeves would doubtless have to be shortened (it’s a curse). Who would you recommend in London for this?
Good question, I haven’t had shirts altered in London before. It’s fairly simple and hard to mess up, so perhaps a local dry cleaner place. Otherwise perhaps Pinnas & Needles as readers have consistently recommended them
Thanks for this, Simon. I love my Sagans (in the PS bark grey) but have yet to find a pair of invisible socks that doesn’t show. What brand do you use? I’ve tried high street things like Uniqlo, which are great for trainers, and far more expensive variations and none of them work. So I’m wearing my Sagans sparingly but barefoot. Would love to preserve them better…
I use Falke or Tabio. The brands are annoyingly inconsistent though, and the heights of them change between seasons.
If you can’t find anything, consider women’s invisible ones if they aren’t too small for you. They’re always cut very low
I recently asked Guillaume Bo about invisible socks and he suggested Bresciani or Cnyttan, Being unable to find either, I mentioned that Mes chaussettes rouges carried Mazarin which he also approved of saying they were also very good value for money.
I’ve found some from H&M that are cut quite low.
I haven’t tried these from skolyx myself, but they seem low enough https://www.skolyx.se/en/home/241-socks-for-loafers.html
Try these ones from Falke – they are cut very low and do not slip off your feet.
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00NBW1GBQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yUIhDb1HWX26B
Simon,
What an absolutely brilliant outfit.
Shows the benefit of pure classism and unlike many ‘summer ensembles’ looks perfect for Northern European cities.
Who made the hopsack jacket ?
Jason
Ettore de Cesare. There’s a full review of it and a coat he made me, if you have a search. Shot in New York
You changed the buttons – makes all the difference.
If you were commissioning a single breasted Hopsack now, who would you choose between Ettore de Ceasare and Elia Caliendo ?
It would depend on style mostly. Ettore cuts a little closer, a little shorter, is particularly good with no padding in the shoulders, and does touches with leather or suede if that’s something you like.
This looks very interesting. I’d say my navy one is the one most used too.
Would you agree this will arguably be a bit more dressy too, as the fabric at least from the shots looks a bit finer?
Will this navy one fade in a similar way to the standard?
Oh and one last question, are all the polos in the shop now with the reinforced placket?
Yes you’re right, this navy polo will be a tiny bit dressier. No, it won’t fade much. And yes, they all have that in the placket
Thanks Simon. A less fading option I think is a nice addition regardless of temperature. Also exited to try the new placket.
My friday polos have become my go to when travelling for work as well as for off time. I recently had back to back travels for three weeks and while I had some dress shirts in my bag, I found my polos took me through the plane to the office to dinners quite well.
That’s interesting, thanks. Great to hear the Friday Polos work so well for you in that travel situation
Hey Simon,
Looks lovely – how would you say your polo’s including this one compare to Luca Faloni?
Hi Chris,
Different in pretty much every way you can think of I think. Perhaps worth reading more old Friday Polo articles to get full detail, but in essence these are (and Luca Faloni’s are not):
– Made with a high collar to sit well under a tailored jacket
– Made with a long body to wear with tailored trousers, and only wear tucked in
– Handmade in several places, both functional and aesthetic, as mentioned in the piece
– Made with other tailored details, such as the front placket, that a normal polo would not have
– Made in slightly unusual pique cottons, not like a normal polo. Here, that means one that is rather more fine and light; with the regular Friday Polo, it means one that is heavier and softer, suitable for wear through colder weather too.
S
I do own two Faloni Polos and wearing today the new Friday “Summer Polo”, which fits very well, by the way.
To compare both:
The hight and shape of the collars are indistinguishable the same as well as the fitting under a jacket.
Same applies to the body length – the Faloni might be even a bit longer.
I can not judge on the degree of handmade effort on both, however I do see the biggest difference in the cotton used. The new cotton pique especially supports the appearance of the collar in a very positive way, as the “winter cotton” of the Faloni, the collar comes out a little bit more bulky around the neck. Hope I could make me understood!
Small question about design: as you’ve taken the design on from the original (collar etc.) why not go the full hog and turn it into a pique shirt (a la Ralph Lauren). Polo shirts are never quite at home with a blazer as the bottom half looks like a t-shirt (even in quality cloth). The jacket may be buttoned as closed but, ordinarily, as polos are usually worn in warm weather, the jacket is usually left open. As such I never wear a polo with a well cut jacket; a soft unlined cotton one perhaps, a bomber, Harrington or other blouson, definitely. Hence my question which looks to address the best of both worlds.
Good point. We did experiment with full button-through shirts in the pique cottons at the start, but I found that rather limited their use to only under tailoring, and the material never seemed to sit quite right in the bottom half of the shirt. Personally I also like the look of that unexpected polo-shirt placket under a jacket, but you’re right it is more of a look.
Beautiful. What fabric is that ?
The Friday Polo cloth? It’s not available by the cut length for bespoke I’m afraid (like most used for ready to wear)
I note that a lot of photographers seem to have their male models to fiddle around with their sleeves to look elegant. It’s fairly trite, and makes the model seem sort of contrived and fidgety in appearance due to the overuse of the sleeve-adjustment pose.
It’s seen on male models attempting elegance all the time no matter where.
Have you ever done a Friday polo with a button down collar? If so, how was your experience compared with the collar shown here on this model polo?
We tried one years ago when we first introduced these, but I might do so again. It’s a nice style for a polo, and the Luca buttondown collar works very well for a lot of people
I wonder, if there will be in the near future a restocking of the white lightweight polo?
Hi Axel. We probably won’t restock the white lightweight, no, as so many found it too transparent
Maybe in green or grey?
This lightweight pique ist just great!
Nice idea, I’ll look into the other Lightweight colours. Some are a bit too shiny…
I understand that your short-sleeved Friday Polos were made available on your website last year on June 18 (2018). I have been anxiously awaiting the release of these garments for this year. Have you any idea when they will be up for sale?
I’m afraid we’re not doing the short-sleeved polos again this year Karl. We decided to do the lightweight instead. We have limited capacity in the items we can do, and I felt the short-sleeved was more like other polos on the market.
FWIW, I would buy a short sleeve polo if you ever do another run.
Good to know. Thanks
I reference to the comments made by DKP and CHANCELLOR, I was quite surprised to find that each of the (4) Long Sleeved Friday polo shirts fit me virtually perfectly, without the need to have the sleeves shortened. This was a pleasant surprise, since in approximately 75% of the time I must have the sleeves shortened. From my perspective, PLEASE keep the sleeve length as is.
Simon – who made the lovely Crispaire trousers you’re wearing here?
Solito made these
Hi Simon,
I’ve bought and stuck with smedley for both cotton and wool polo’s over the last 10 or 15 years. Your offerings are slightly more expensive. Can you please briefly summarise the benefits of your offerings against smedley?
Thanks
Sure Patrick, but it isn’t really a good comparison between Smedley as it’s knitwear, and this which is cut-and-sewn like any regular polo shirt.
Unless you mean comparing this with the Dartmoor sweater we offer?
Simon-
Just received one of these. Beautiful shirt and very good fit. One quick question- the shirt is a touch shinier than other lightweight polos. Presuming this is typical of finer pique weaves but I was curious if you found it becomes more matte with washing. Not a problem, just makes the shirt seem a bit more formal, at least prior to wash. Thanks!
Yes Justin you’re right, it does has a touch more sheen, which is often the case with finer piques. It will become a tiny bit more matte with time, but not much
Hi Simon
I recently bought one of the Friday polos and was pleased with what I saw when it arrived and decided to have a fitting with Luca Avitabile when he was in London a few weeks ago, at which I ordered some bespoke shirts in cotton.
Having now worn the polo (with an English tailored jacket) I found the collar a bit too high at the back, which I felt looked a bit ‘showy’.
Do you think this polo is a garment that works better with a Neapolitan style jacket, which as I understand it would typically have a collar that sits higher at the back and therefore show less of the shirt collar?
If so, and I decide to have a sports jacket made by a Neapolitan tailor, who would you recommend?
Many thanks
Ron
Hi Ron. Pleased you’ve largely enjoyed the Polo so far. It is a little higher in the collar than others, largely because I find this helps it sit above a jacket collar, but I know what you mean about it being a tiny bit showier as a result, particularly compared to most modern polos.
Have you had bespoke jackets from an English tailor? I wouldn’t say that all Neapolitans sit higher on the neck than all English. It’s more a variation with the tailors, and even something you can request to be slightly different during a fitting.
S
Hi Simon
Thanks for your response and yes, it was a bespoke English tailored jacket I wore the polo with; I’ve been having clothes made in and around Saville Row for a good few years although I do also like the Neapolitan bespoke look and might try that in the future.
Best regards
Ron
I love the color scheme blend as well as the loafers style & pose/side bend capture! Look forward to seeing more!
Would you mind commenting on how these trousers from Solito compare to trousers from Cerrato, any particular pros or cons?
Cerrato is better quality in general. The Solito had some issues with loose stitches, and Cerrato put far more into the finishing, tack stitches etc – as they do for all trousers under their own name, but not generally those they make for tailors (most Neapolitan tailors use someone else – such as Cerrato, Ambrosi etc – to make their trousers.
Simon,
Do you plan on releasing more Larges in the coming weeks?
No, sorry Joel. We wouldn’t do another run of the lightweight polo until next Spring.
You can get on the waiting list for it though if you want, to make sure you don’t miss out next time – email [email protected] to do that
Hi Simon,
Please could you advise who made the light grey trousers and the fabric details in the images with the Friday polo?
Thanks
Rupesh
It’s Crispaire, made by Solito
I don’t suppose you could advise which fabric code and colour description this is from in the Crispaire selection by Holland and Sherry. As they have two light grey shades;
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/337053-crispaire-light-grey-solid
https://apparel.hollandandsherry.com/en/fabric/use/suits/337054-crispaire-silver-grey-solid
I’m afraid I can’t Rupesh, no. Bear in mind that after 2-3 years, most colours are changed or at least the cloth is a new woven piece, which can be slightly different in colour. I’m afraid it’s the problem with buying cloth based on any piece of clothing more than a little old
Hello Simon. Very interested to hear your take on Colhay’s new cahsmere silk short sleeve polos (https://colhays.com/collections/ss21-collection-vintage-british-sportswear/products/cashmere-silk-tennis-polo-in-cream?variant=39823516303520), even if only from what’s available online in case you havent seen them.
How do these compare to the fine merino ones you plan to release? Usually I prefer your designs but would be good to know. Thanks.
I have seen and tried them, and there will be some brief coverage on them soon.
In brief, the Colhay’s ones are very nice, but different in some significant respects:
– The material is heavier and warmer. Still great for a lot of the time in the UK, but it feels more like knitwear and not so much a hot-weather piece.
– The collar is lower than the PS ones, more like a regular collar.
Got it, thanks. I’ll definitely wait for yours. By the way, any idea as to when will you release them?
It should be next month hopefully
Sorry to be such a nuisance, but, roughly, will it be the first or second half of May?
It’s really hard to say, I’m sorry, as we just don’t know when they’ll leave the factory. I’d hope for end of the first half, but I don’t want to overpromise
Hi Simon,
Congrats on the 15 years! Any thoughts to offering these again in spring/summer 2023? I’m headed to Rome and Florence in June for a family vacation and am trying to pull together the right clothes for the trip. This would would probably fit in perfectly with what I’m looking for. I have a tailored pair of oatmeal linen trousers, the PS polo in navy, and am looking to add a pair of the anthology drawstring trousers. Your articles on vacation and Italy have been perfectly timed and very helpful. Appreciate any additional advice on what to get/bring and/or any suggested stops!
Nice, thanks John. No plans to bring this back specifically, but we are working on a different lighter-weight polo
This product was great. It is a pity that it is no longer offered. I found it to be superior to other editions of the friday polo. In particular, it retained its color and white usage marks on the hedges did not appear (as fast). That problem is typical of navy cotton polos. You should bring it back! The weight was also better in my view since the polo was thinner and fit better under a mid-weight jacket, in case of colder weather it is easy to pair with a heavier jacket (and it would not look mismatched).
Thank you, yes good points. I rather liked the fading on the navy, but it suited a more casual polo, less the fine cotton of this one.