Mohair cardigans and Rubato chinos
![](https://www.permanentstyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/real-mccoys-mohair-cardigan-513x770.jpg)
These chinos are the Rubato ones I’ve asked them to reissue, which will be available exclusively in the PS pop-up shop on Savile Row next week.
They’re not exactly the same as the originals, which were a single pleat where this is a flat front - the Officer’s Chino model I’ve reviewed previously.
But it’s the same in every other respect, and the colour is the important thing - a surprisingly dark brown, rather smart, and particularly nice with neutrals like white, cream and black, as well as menswear standards like navy and grey.
It’s a colour I wear a lot already with the charbrown flannel from Fox (eg here) so I already knew I'd get a lot of wear out of them.
When Rubato and I started talking about doing something for the pop-up, I was keen to do these chinos because I wear my other ones so much, but missed out on the brown.
They agreed to reissue them, albeit with some compromises. Their chinos are all made with a button front now and I prefer a zip; but I can live with that. And as mentioned in the past, I slim mine down to a 20cm bottom when I get them, from the 22.5cm they come with (in a size 48). But I know others prefer the wider leg.
And it’s worth it to get my favourite smart chino in such a unique colour. They’re fairly limited - around 25 pairs - so if you’re interested, worth getting to Savile Row next week to have a look.
The pop-up runs from Wednesday, April 20 to Saturday, April 23, at The Service on Savile Row - featuring Rubato, Ludovic Lunetier, Jake’s Shirts, Bentley’s Antiques and of course PS. All details here.
There will be welcome drinks on the Wednesday evening from 5pm, so do come along then if you fancy a glass of something.
Returning to the chinos, the hard right-hand twill does feel a bit stiff to start with. The dyed colours like khaki and brown in particular.
But I’ve found they soften after three or four washes, and that extra, dense weave is worth it for a great feel in the long run.
The khaki colour also has a bit of a sheen at first, which softens over those first few washes. I don’t know the technical reason for this (any fabric nerds, please let me know) but it’s the case with many dense cottons, including the more workwear-inspired ones.
In fact I got a pair of Freewheelers ones from Son of a Stag last year, and lovely as they are, the sheen is only starting to go after about 10 washes.
I’ve pictured the chinos here with two cardigans - a style I find I wear a lot these days, given I’m still working from home a lot and not wearing a jacket as much.
The oatmeal-coloured one above is from Connolly, but I'll talk about that in our regular ‘Spring Top 10’ piece next week, so I won’t go into details now.
The other cardigan, however, is worth exploring.
It’s a mohair knit from The Real McCoy’s, which I was rather unsure about when I first got it: I was sold on the material, but the style was a little unusual.
The material grabbed me as soon as I picked it up.
The long, raised fibres - the fluffiness - probably comes across in these images. What won’t show is how dense and heavy it is. It feels soft, spongey, with an amazing substance and warmth.
Mohair cardigans (old and new) usually use a yarn comprising a nylon or polyester core, with mohair spun around it. The McCoy’s version uses a wool core instead, with the knit then hand-rolled to lift the hairs and create that fluffy surface.
The result has real heft in the hand, but isn’t heavy when worn - it feels more like it’s hugging around the body.
The mohair, though soft, is a bit scratchy. It’s fine over a shirt, but I wouldn’t wear it over just a T-shirt (as most of the modern ones are styled).
I know there will be some that’ll question buying an expensive cardigan that’s ‘a bit scratchy’. But to be looking at clothes like this at all, you’ve really got to be in love with materials - what they can be, how they are made, how the resulting clothes can feel and drape. I certainly am, and this one is beautiful.
Now the style. Mohair cardigans have a fairly long history, with their first spike of popularity in the 1960s. But that was largely among women, and most today will know them from Kurt Cobain in the 1990s - or, if you’re younger, from the recent trend created by Marni, Needles and others.
The heritage is Ivy; they feel naturally more casual and grungy; but the current vogue is to dress them up, albeit in stronger colours.
Over the time I've been wearing this one, I’ve found that it's too casual for shirts and tailored trousers. The cut is a factor - the low neck and straight body are very different from sartorial-type cardigans.
It’s also too stark a colour for my casual default of mid-blue jeans. The other stronger colours of mohair, like Jelado’s mustard, would be better there.
Instead, it’s best with dark denim and flannel/chambray shirts, or with chinos and an oxford shirt as pictured here.
And no, there’s no sensible reason to have both this cardigan and this alpaca one. Other than to try both and write about them.
The loafers are full straps from Alden in Color 8 cordovan. The belt is alligator, also from Rubato.
The shirt is a white PS Oxford, while the socks are (short) charcoal wool from Trunk.
All details on the pop-up here. Looking forward to seeing everyone next week.
Photography: Jamie Ferguson
I think releasing these chinos only for a pop-up is borderline cruelty! While flying to London to pick up a pair of chinos WOULD be a story, it’s a bit too wasteful even for me. Maybe if they sell out really fast Rubato will re-release them for the public…
Speaking of Rubato, any chance of writing something of their new denim? I figure They would be eager to show them off during the event. The ecru ones look like they could be a hit for the summer.
I’m sure I will, yes. Haven’t seen them myself in person yet
Very nice cardigan, reminds me of J. Press Shaggy Dog sweaters. The texture of both can add a very interesting depth to casual outfits.
Of course! How could I have forgotten to reference Shaggy Dogs? Those and similar brushed shetlands have a similar appeal, albeit a different feel to mohair
Hey Simon,
Yes, how could you forget Shaggy Dogs!
I have been wearing cardigans since forever not following fashion as always.
Have you ever done a comprehensive feature on them?
They are so versatile.
Now Rubato Ecru Denim got me salivating … any preview photos of what they look like? Thanks
No I haven’t. But I’ll be doing a bit more gradually.
I haven’t seen the denim in person myself I’m afraid. I will when the shop opens, and I’ll try to cover them on Thursday while the shop is still running
Hi Simon, do you know if our Rubato friends intend to propose this model for sale online eventually?
There are no current plans except with any left over from this batch, no. But always worth letting them know you’d be interested, in case
Simon,
Perhaps … one day …
PS Interiors? The clothes are sublime too.
Cheers. Not sure about PS Interiors, but obviously been doing a bit more in that area recently – the Navajo weaving, rugs at Liberty, de le Cuona etc. Just in case you missed any of those
Can I please buy a pair of the chinos and have them shipped to me in the US?
Only after the pop-up shop has closed Steve, if there are any left.
Also intersted in a pair, please let us know in case they will be available to order.
Thanks. If a size 36 remains, I’m in.
Do you think these Anglo-Italian trousers fit the same bill as the Rubato ones in this article? Cold, dark brown chinos:
https://angloitalian.com/products/garment-washed-flat-front-cotton-trouser-tobacco
They do in respect of the colour. But the material itself is quite different otherwise – a softer cotton, more akin to a tailored cotton, and garment washed too. Still great, but different priorities, the Rubato ones being closer to what someone would want out of a tougher, old pair of chinos – like an officer’s pair
How do you get your cordovan shoes almost black? Do you use black cordovan cream when you polish them?
No, I don’t use any colour on them at all. They just happened to start quite a dark colour, Alden’s Colour 8 is usually a darker colour than others’ (the dye them themselves after getting from Horween) and I think just wear over time
My Alden colour 8 cordovan tassel loafers from 2014 aren’t nearly as dark as these – here is a very clear purple / red coming through, which I like. I guess not every batch is the same
Very nice. Do you know if they’ll also be selling the Officer Chino in ivory and/or khaki?
I don’t actually, let me check
Simon, For those of us at the moment not living in the UK or London, will there be another method of purchase or to even see if the fit works? Thank you.
Only if some remain after the pop-up shop has ended
Who can we email to let us know if there are leftovers after the pop-up has ended?
Contact Rubato – I don’t know if they operate a waiting list but they’ll be able to let you know
Hi Simon,
The colour looks delicious!
Any idea on the pricing of these at the pop up?
Thanks.
Same as the other colours of the chinos
I join the chorus of those urging Rubato to produce a full run of their dark brown chinos!
The mohair cardigan reminds me of the alpaca cardigans that were popular in the sixties (but without the shaggy effect). They were lightweight, warm, and didn’t wrinkle.
About the dark color of the Horween cordovan, on a visit to his shop when he remarked on my loafers, Charlie Davidson told me that he used to put black polish on cordovan shoes so they wouldn’t fade.
can anyone recommend a pair of off white slim fit tapered chinos that aren’t slightly see through?
Hi, what colour shoes would you recommend with a dark brown trouser like this? Dark brown suede too similar perhaps?
Blimey, I get asked this so much! It has to be a separate post now. I’ll try and do one next week
Why do I have a feeling ill finally order brown corduroy trousers after reading this?
Please include suggestions for shoes for brown suits too!
Will do
Black suede, dark cordovan and sand / biscuit coloured suede if you go light on the top, are my go to options with this..
Hi Simon,
Hope everything is well. Great content to digest as per usual.
Could you recommend me a manufacturer of a good chino for someone quite small 5 ft 9 and pretty skinny?
I seldom wear chinos due to the fact that I find them either too skinny (I loathe skinny trousers) or too boxy which makes them look as if I’m wearing a big rice bag.
I’ve exhausted lots of options and perhaps there just isn’t any left to try on.
I’m also looking for them to be pleated as I appreciate the volume they add for my small frame.
Best,
A
I’m afraid I don’t have anything to recommend immediately, but have you tried the likes of Anglo-Italian, Drake’s, Trunk and other brands we cover on PS? I’d imagine they would fall between skinny and big, though they are slightly smarter chinos, not more casual workwear ones
I was in the market for more smarter ones. Drake’s do not do chinos, at least the last time I popped in there around four months ago. I do believe the salesman did say they were looking to bring some out, so I will check again. I am quite familiar with a lot of makers and stockists and those you mentioned have all been tried.
By the way, I don’t have a budget on this so I am open to pay pretty much anything, if there was a bespoke option I would take it on.
Still, never mind – I shall keep hunting.
Chinos are a hard thing to make bespoke or even MTM, largely because people expect that kind of garment wash. If you haven’t seen it, it’s worth looking at this piece on how bespoke trousers are different from chinos, but how one tailor is trying to make a proper bespoke version
Yet another chino question — should inquiries about potential leftovers go directly through Rubato? Quite interested in size 46 but am US-based.
Yes, to Rubato please
The color combination of oatmeal vest, white shirt and brown trousers is just great.
Thank you
I love a v neck cardigan. It’s deeply personal of course, but while I like shawl collars too, they’re so luxurious and relaxed that I don’t feel as smart in one; whereas I don’t feel the same way about a v neck.
I’d have to draw the comparison with brushed Shetland as well – the texture of the mohair is lovely. There aren’t enough options for cardigans in this style that are substantial enough to wear as a top layer, IME.
Hello Simon, would you say brown chinos can be a versatile colour? Other than black, cream or white, which different colours would you suggest?
Many thanks,
Jack
They’re fairly versatile, but not as much as a beige\khaki, off-white/bone and perhaps navy.
Brown is also nice with navy, with yellow, and with olive
Thanks, Simon, I thought brown doesn’t match well with navy after reading ‘What are the best knitwear colours under tailoring’. Maybe was that only for knitwear and tailored jacket?
It was, yes
The lasting sheen on the chinos would be from the mercerised cotton. I’ve had chinos in Japanese mercerised cotton before and it gives a much more pronounced and long-lasting effect in both look and feel than starched finishes on regular cottons.
Thanks James
Love the black cardigan/white OCBD/brown chinos. Couldn’t afford the mohair cardigan but picked this up, very nice with grosgrain backing on each side of the buttons and buttonholes; nice MOP smoke buttons.
https://oconnellsclothing.com/oconnells-scottish-lambswool-cardigan-black-ch01654-1.html
Hope the Rubato brown chinos become available soon. In the meantime, my older charbrown odd flannels are making due.
Looks nice, thanks Steve
Hi Simon, have you slimmed down the thighs like the other pair of ivory chinos you own?
Many thanks,
Jack
Yes I have Jack – I mention that in the piece, reducing it to 20cm bottoms
Yes, but in your previous article, ‘RUBATO OFFICER’S CHINOS: REVIEW’, you mentioned that you narrowed the thighs from 33.5cm to 32cm. I was wondering if you did the same for this pair of trousers as they are flat fronted.
Yes I did Jack, it was the same alteration. Both are flat fronted by the way
Sorry, I misunderstood.Could I ask what type of alteration you have done for the hems? e.g. original bottom
No problem. I have them turned up inside and then machined through the cloth, like a normal chino.
Thanks, Simon.
Hi Simon,
Would the brown chinos work with sports jackets or would you say a tailored pair would be more ideal?
A tailored pair would be better for jackets in my opinion
Hi Simon,
Very nice cardigan and would like to get one on-line. I have checked both Japan and global website, but the size measurement are quite different. May I know the size you pick and what size you normally wear for suit jacket? Thank you very much.
Hey Ming,
Sure – it was a medium, and I’d normally wear a size 40 chest jacket
Hi Simon, when you iron the rubato chinos, do you make crease lines? Although, from the photos above, I don’t think they don’t seem very prominent.
Many thanks,
Jack
No I don’t. I wouldn’t really do that with anything other than tailored trousers
Hi Simon, I would like to ask if your brown Rubato chinos also faded after wash. This is the fourth time I washed the trousers with the cotton setting, 30degree water, minimal detergent and low spin cycle, but there are some fadings, especially around the hips. I have attached a photo for your reference.
Many thanks,
Jack
This is another photo of the trousers.
I would expect a little fading, yes. Make sure you shake them out and hang them when they’re finished washing, rather than leaving them in the machine
Okay, thanks, Simon. Do they look fine to you, though? I was just a bit surprised as I thought I had ruined them.
I think so, but it’s very hard to tell from the photos. Also, how many times are you wearing them before you wash them? I’ve only washed mine twice, and had them a lot longer
I usually wash them after 6-8times of wear. Does it sound too often?
The fading only happened around the hip and none around the legs.
Probably not – I’d wait more, but it depends what you’re getting on them
I notice that The Real McCoy’s now has the mohair cardigan in three other colours aside from the black: mint, mustard, and purple. Noting that you found the black too stark to work with a casual wardrobe, I’m wondering what you think of the other colours? I imagine mustard will appeal to you, though I’m wary of it working with my wardrobe. I’m leaning to getting the purple as it is a colour I wear a fair bit, though I worry it might be too bright of a purple.
Yes, they’re pretty strong colours. I would go with the mint myself, to wear with jeans or denim shirts. But then, I’ll always have Kurt Cobain on MTV at the back of my mind…
Sorry, Simon, the Alden cordovan loafers are in D or E widht? Thanks
D. Please tell me I haven’t said they are E anywhere?
No problem. And sure, a wider last does make an aesthetic difference too
Hey simon can i ask how useful you find this dark brown rubato chinos here especially without any jackets or outer layer up top.
I work in a casual office and intend to wear this wiith just a shirt up top.
Im not entirely sold on a chinos this dark though. It looks pretty unusual amd wearing brown shoes below makes the outfit too brown?
I really like them Shem. Great with a range of knits – navy, cream, beige, black, even pale green or pale pink – and shirts.
As to shoes, have you seen the article on shoes to wear with brown trousers? Have a search if not
Hi simons i know the brown rubato chinos do white tops well. Do you feel they do stripe tops well? Eg blue bengal stripes and solid blues like chambray shirts?
Yes, although better with the more muted colours, so not a bright blue stripe for example.
Hi simon i like wearing blue chambray shirts.i know the dark brown rubato chinos goes well with white shirts. Do you think it can go well with chambray shirts? Im thinking no as i cant seem to fit them together in my minds eye
I think they do work well together actually, yes
Hi Simon,
Would you recommend turn ups/cuffs on this style of Chino? I just received a pair and could go either way on them.
M
I generally prefer without, but they can look good with them too. I think it’s a question of style – no cuffs will feel a little bit smarter perhaps, but also depends on the shoes, eg if you wear them with a chunky trainer it could be nice to have some clearance from the shoe
These brown chinos look sensational, the shade is spot on ; but what are other options, particularly for versions that are already slimmed down to 20cm-ish? I think at 22 they’re just too wide, and it looks like Rubato are out of stock..
Thank you.
I don’t know any in that colour I’m afraid John, that’s why I like them so much!
Hi simon im on the wait list for the dark brown rubato chino but to be honest im on the fence for it due to the colour.
I mostly never wear a jacket to work, mostly shirt and pants and i previously had a daek brown bespoke chino made by a tailor that i found hard to wear for some reason (ie wearing brown shoe and belt made the bottom half too brown for eg and i found khaki chinos found more versatile).
Should i give it another go? I know wearing a jacket makes it much easier and i can see how dark brown chinos can look nice with a navy jacket for eg but on its own it seems much more difficult than i thought
To be honest Shem, I think it might be easier without a jacket, but it depends how much you like wearing black or Color8 shoes with trosuers like that. If you’re only going to wear brown then it’s harder
Hi Simon, and Happy New Year to you.
I’ve admired these dark brown chinos from Rubato for a while and see they’re recently back in stock. Can I ask: would you only really wear a black belt with them? I’ve Alden Colour 8 full straps like yours (an eBay find, my first foray into loafers, and I couldn’t love them more) so am sorted on that front, but lack a black belt. Rubato’s own woven one is great, obviously, but does that colour belt go with much else, compared to a brown one?
Thanks so much,
Joe
I’d wear any colour of belt that was close to the shoes I think. But a black belt really only goes with black unfortunately, unless than Color 8 is a very dark version
Thanks, Simon. Had also been looking at Rubato’s brown woven leather one; don’t think my Aldens are quite as dark as yours so perhaps that would be better.
Is switching the button fly to a zipper a feasible alteration?
I don’t actually no, TM, I’ve never asked. I think it would be tricky (and therefore not cheap) if it were possible though
You mention somewhere that you now own a pair of the Rubato chinos in the original cut, not altered in the leg. Do you wear that pair in the same way as the slimmer one pictured here, or find it too wide for jackets and narrower shoes? And do you know if the brown they offer now is the same as in these pictures?
I’m not sure on the brown, you’d have to check with them. I do have a pair in a wider fit, but they are very much an exception, I wear the others mostly. I also don’t wear them much with jackets
Hello Simon
Big fan of your alligator belt. It seems Rubato no longer carries them anymore. Is there any other establishment you would recommend for something simiar?
If you also ever do another popup with Rubato, it would be great if you could bring it back like you did with the Brown Army Chino!
Thanks Daniel, I can certainly ask.
I haven’t seen another. Berg & Berg do one in a printed calf, not real alligator, but I haven’t found their belts to be that great to be honest
Hi Simon, I hope you don’t mind me asking some questions about how your Rubato chinos in dark brown are ageing. I’ve a pair of the light khaki, with the leg width unaltered, which I absolutely love: without doubt my favourite chinos; go wonderfully with what I like to wear, and my work is the kind where they actually fall at the smarter end of the spectrum in terms of what people wear.
Have had my eye on the dark brown since you first wrote about them and am wondering how versatile you find them? I’ve the same full-strap Aldens as you, so have the complimentary footwear, which is a bonus. But I suppose I mainly wanted to ask whether the sheen they have at the start has now worn off for you, and also whether yours have developed any pale crease marks from washing?
Thanks so much.
Hey Joe,
I love mine, but I think it particularly suits how I like to dress these days, with shoes like those full straps and black loafers or boots as well.
They have faded a little bit, and the sheen has gone, and I managed to not get any crease marks. That latter requires a little bit of care, like jeans – not using the highest spin maybe, and most importantly not letting them sit in the water crumpled up, but shake them out and smooth them to hang as soon as they’re finished.
Thanks Simon, that’s super helpful. I’m confident they’d fit with my wardrobe style-wise – I’ve a pair of brown tailored cotton trousers, from Berg & Berg, which I wear regularly because of the colour, and often wish fit more akin to chinos.
I’m fairly meticulous about clothes care and washing, where I need to be, and tbh could see myself simply handwashing them flat in the bath, not spinning them, and laying them out flat to dry – which sounds like it would be a decent approach?
The latter would work, but I don’t think you need to really, just do that flattering when you get them out. And you won’t need to wash them that much of course
Hey Simon,
Do you find much shrinkage with the chinos after washing in the machine? I bought a pair recently and just took them in to get tapered/shortened and realised i probably should have washed them first…
A little bit, but not a lot. I can’t remember exactly how much I’m afraid
Ok no worries.
Do you know how much you have them turned up for the hem?
I think it’s 5cm
Thank you! I usually go for 5cm with classic turn ups on flannels etc but might go a little shorter for the hem stitching on these.
Yes, that is more normal