It was effing freezing in Paris two weeks ago: officially minus five, felt like minus ten. I know that’s not extreme if you live in Sweden or North Dakota, but it’s not the kind of weather you’re used to in London, I can tell you. It was bitter.
I was there for a couple of days, and didn’t really want to take multiple outfits. One coat, one pair of boots. But layering was key for the weather - the ability to shed layers between the streets and the metro and the shop, or at least unbutton them.
The outfit shown here was my solution:
- PS Donegal coat on the outside, but with the fur liner I had made at Yves Salomon a couple of years ago, which of course was removable
- Shawl cardigan underneath that, of the kind of thickness that fits under a coat
- Brown tweed jacket as a more formal alternative
- PS white T-shirt under the shawl, very comfortable and a good thickness
- White PS Oxford as a more formal alternative
- A white vest under the T-shirt, as an optional layer for warmth
- A big cashmere shawl over the top, which could be wrapped closely around the face and neck, left to hang, or folded and slip into a bag. Three options
So there were six layers on the upper body at most (shawl/coat/fur/cardigan/tee/vest), three at the least (coat/cardigan/tee). On the second day it was warmer than expected, so the shawl and the vest went in the bag.
The nice thing about these layers is that they could be unbuttoned as well as taken off. So when you get on public transport you can unwind the shawl, undo the coat, unbutton the cardigan, and just be left with the T-shirt layer. It avoids that situation of being too hot inside but too cold outside.
Of course I also had a black PS Watch Cap with me, as being a baldy I’d freeze with nothing on the head. And the black jeans were backed up with some over-the-calf wool socks.
It worked pretty well (which of course is why I’m writing about it) and the style combination was satisfying too.
There’s nothing I like better at the moment than dark, muted colours that still have personality, and the neutral set of black boots, grey jeans and white T-shirt was given that by the taupe cardigan, speckly brown donegal, and toffee colour of the shawl.
It makes me happy.
Changing the cardigan for a tweed jacket and the tee for a shirt changed the formality quite a bit, which was helpful. And if I wanted to I could have brought a pair of charcoal flannels to smarten up the lower half.
Of course, it also feels wonderful having that fur under the coat, wrapping that massive piece of cashmere around your neck. We talk a lot on PS about premium materials and it’s often the thing that cheaper brands sacrifice, prioritising design. So it’s nice to really appreciate them, and you do when they’re practical as well as pleasurable.
I can do something separately on shawls and wearing them if people are interested - it’s not the easiest for a neatness-obsessed menswear guy, but it can be satisfying.
It’s also something I’ve been wearing for a while. If I look back at old images like this one at Pitti eleven years ago, I wouldn’t wear the hat, the glasses or probably the suit (in that setting), but I’d still wear the shawl.
Some people get to delete the pictures of how they used to dress. Mine remain frighteningly public. I guess at least it shows there’s a positive journey you can go on.
Clothes shown, with links where still available:
- PS Brown Donegal coat (no longer available in brown)
- Fur lining from Yves Salomon (only using old fur scraps)
- Taupe merino shawl-collar cardigan from Anderson & Sheppard
- Shawl scarf from Begg & Co (about eight years old, not currently available)
- PS white Tapered T-shirt
- PS black Watch Cap
- Rubato crocodile belt (not currently available in crocodile)
- Nineties black Levi’s
- Edward Green Galway boots (currently available in cordovan rather than calf)
- Clan sunglasses from Connolly (available only in store)
Not shown:
Hi Simon, who took the photos? Were they taken on film? Cheers
Hey – Alex Natt did, and yes they were. Any specific photography-related questions you had?
A cardigan with only a T shirt beneath is way too common of a sight these days.
You’re better than this!
Besides, this particular hefty cardigan overpowers the T shirt.
I say, if you’re traveling and it’s not bitterly cold, and you’re opting for less formal, and it’s in and out of hot, stuffy busses and stores, etc., then opt for a mid-weight sweater and mid-weight, short wool jacket
(pardon all my grumbling)
Not at all Leif, always welcome.
Personally, while a collar also works under a shawl cardigan, I like a T-shirt or at least some kind of crewneck underneath – it’s the perfect combination of relaxed elegance for me
A photography comment. The film–good. The crooked horizons–really bad.
Thanks for the comment Bryan, though more even than with clothes, I don’t think simply saying good or bad is that helpful or interesting
It could be that I come from a nature photography background, including landscape and traditional architecture, but I have just always found crooked horizons in photographs very disturbing. Even in portrait and fashion photography, I find them to be bad practice.
Thank you Bryan, that’s a more interesting comment.
It’s certainly the case in those disciplines, and I think Alex would refer to his studies in photography, which included a focus on built environments. In fashion though sometimes those angles can help to give some energy to the image, in my view. It can be taken too far, and become too common, but I feel it has its place.
Appreciate the article. Clothing for travel is a topic dear to my heart. I have gravitated to always using wool t-shirts instead of a cotton version. It transport moist/heat excellent, which means it’s always dry and war. I also find the wool version always drapes nicely under a jacket or looks good on its own.
I know what you mean Morten, wool performs great in that way.
Personally I don’t like them so much on their own, so it’s a little restrictive for me. I would probably wear a fine knit in that scenario
I’d be interested to know what kind of wool t-shirts you’re talking about. I do have a long sleeve cashmere RL polo but wouldn’t really classify it as a t-shirt. I do wear tight fitting fine mock turtle necks which kind of act like a long sleeve tee. Can wear a thicker woolen or over-shirt on over it when it’s chilly but not enough for a heavier coat or jacket.
Do you have a link for one?
If you are referring to the discussion below on how to dress in the arctic – try the outdoor stores or ski-wear. The base layer t-shirt is underwear and should be close fitting. I can vouch for Swedish brands such as Woolpower and Fjällräven but norwegian Devold is also very good. These are really good technical thermal clothes.
I use the ones from https://www.loow.com/collections/mens-o-necks .
Good quality, no logo, etc. The O-neck keeps its form (mine are +2y by now, use them all year round)
Thank-you both.
How do you wash the wool t shirt? Does it not require a hand-wash? All these luxury shirt, knitwear makers say, its easy, just do x, y, z and hang dry .. but lets face it, who on earth has the time to do that for multiple items? I end up taking to the dry cleaner, who occasionally messes it up, & I end up paying a lot just for cleaning.
Hey Rups,
A lot of wool tees and underwear can be washed in a machine on a delicate/wool wash, but can I also push back a little on cleaning them? It’s really not very much work to wash a knit, you’re basically just soaking it in the water, and it is a skill, more reliable, enables you to have better clothes, not use chemicals, and saves you money. I think that’s worth a little time, at least on a knit.
Yes but Simon, you are a luxury menswear writer, & I imagine you float through life wearing nice suits, & sipping cappuccinos like I see you doing in all these photos taken in Pitti etc 😉 I on the other hand, am furiously banging away on my computer, spilling tea on my shirt, & paddling fast under water just to stay afloat)
Can I ask what you wash these items in? The bath tub? … I have a bucket which I usually use to save on wasting a lot of water. Not sure if thats what everyone does?
I have a funny / horrifying depending on your point of view hand washing story) I went to Belgrade last year for a while, & the city has literally NO proper dry cleaners apart from the type who put your washing in a big spinner. I know as I walked around the best part of a day looking for one. I needed to wash my polos and shirts (all expensive menswear ones) as it was furiously hot and humid. I took a look at the washing machine in my rented apartment and it looked semi safe so I put my stuff in there on the delicate setting. I noticed after some time that the machine was violently rocking back and forth which I had heard can cause problems. I suspended the cycle & checked my stuff and some had developed in the course of 5-6 mins tiny little holes in a few of them) … The next day I decided to look for a bucket, & spent the whole morning walking to a market eventually finding a baby washing tub which I washed my clothes in every few days by hand. I can tell you, I would rather have been sitting at a Belgrade cafe chatting pleasantries with some of the Serbian beauties, but I was scrubbing my laundry instead! This was the dark side of menswear. When I look at menswear photos, I see guys laughing, eating ice cream, riding bikes, but they never show a guy scrubbing his shirt in his apartment!
Rups, no I am not! I am a father who spends more time with his kids than doing any of those things. I’m on my knees next to the bathtub, cleaning dirty clothes, dealing with bloody noses. I have tried to write about this side of life a fair bit.
We have a wash basin, a plastic thing, used for washing babies in the early days (like your one) and now useful for soaking clothes generally – which you will do when children are sick down things.
You don’t need to scrub at anything like this either – please have a look again at our videos with Ronnie and with Audie about this. If you literally ran some warm water in a basin like that, soaked your knit in it for half an hour, and then took it out to dry it, you’d do most of the job. Stains float out. Knitwear (good knitwear) is amazing like that.
i do 2 pieces at a time, drying them on a stackable drying rack. I use a detergent called Soak-which is great since it doesn’t require any rinsing. I pop each piece in a bucket, let it sit for an hour or so, giving it a little agitation, then rolling it in a towel then onto the rack. Really easy. Hope this helps
Cheers Kurt
For me the difficult part is the “drying out flat” part. I have followed Ronnie’s video, it does take little time and it does work great, but if I do it with four pieces then I don’t have a place where I can lay them flat for two days without them being a bother.
Perhaps just do two at a time then? I presume you don’t have to wash your knitwear that often? I probably only do it once a year unless it gets a particular stain or something
I wash my wool t-shirts now and then in machine on the cold setting. Still looks good.
A very interesting post as I have found out to my cost. Layering is great for transitioning from the outside cold into a sometimes blistering hot subway or even some shops.
I’d have liked to see what could be substituted for some of the garments or accessories which are no longer available, although again it’s each to their own style anyway.
For instance, I’m in London probably wearing grey & navy garments, and I’m pretty formal in my dress code of smart navy jacket and grey trousers, smart shoes, a smart coat that I still don’t have!!!.
You get my idea…..
I do Lindsay, and that’s a change in formality as well as colour scheme, but I think you could still do it well with white, grey and navy – just substitute a navy jacket and shawl for what I’ve got here. The only thing that combination might struggle with is the jeans, which might be a little casual for a navy jacket and white shirt, even if they were in more casual materials
Thanks again.
Hi Simon. First of all dry January has been anything but dry! Have enjoyed the articles.
It’s interesting seeing your personal style compared to 11 years ago. You look effortlessly stylish now.
The only thing I’m not sure about is the shawl in the first picture. It looks so elaborately tied (even if it’s dead easy to do) that it would have looked better if you had just chucked it on. Just my 2 cents worth’s anyway.
Have a great week!
Thanks Alex.
The shawl is just thrown on pretty much, and not tied at all, but perhaps I’ve become so practised at it that it ends up neater than I even want it to!
Hello Simon!
Lovely article. Thank you.
As I have been looking for a similarly large cashmere scarf for a while: Could you share the dimensions of the shawl? Most ones found online are only around 30cm in width, which usually doesnt have the desired look/effect. Maybe you can share some insights here.
Thanks!
Johannes
Sure Johannes. I don’t have it with me but I’ll check at home.
I’d say key is length, in that you want it to be able to go round your neck twice and not be too short on either end afterwards
I was taken by the shawl as well and just realised that I need a shawl not a scarf !
On that note what dimensions constitutes a shawl rather then a scarf ?
I’m not sure there’s any clear definition, but usually the difference is quite stark. A shawl will drop to an area between your waist and knees when undone, whereas a scarf is normally waist height or above, right? And they are usually twice as wide
Uniqlo had some great ones (their Cashmere Stole) the last years, but not this season anymore. Another issue to consider here is volume.
Most super fine cashmeres or even silk blends won’t do, because the material is not really thick enough to give that comforting wrapping feel.
Rubato had some great cashmere scarves in the past, but those weren’t really big enough.
Maybe that could be something for a PS Product the upcoming fall.
A nice copper/rust, olive or an air force blue/navy might be great.
Uniqlo tends to “revive” (i.e. pull from storage) stuff from older collections from time to time. I bought an overcoat in 2020 or 2021 (can’t really remember), it was gone for a few years and it popped up for this winter again, the exact same. They also rotate the colours of the knitwear in the same fashion. I would not be surprised if they did the same with the stoles.
I checked Johannes – it’s 183 X 73cm. Begg still sell shawls in that size
I like the cardigan but wondered whether their is big difference in weight over cashmere? is it noticeably heavier/is a cashmere cardigan noticeably warmer? for £150 more their is a 100% cashmere shawl
I wouldn’t say there is, no. Mostly I like the colour here and the fit, more than the material
Joshua Ellis has a good range of stoles. Glen Isla is their outlet store (IIRC, go to their full list of products, not their stoles page). Good quality stuff. Some weird colors and patterns but a lot of classic stuff too.
One thing I love about winter is that you can almost be a walking capsule!In really cold weather, not snow, I find the toughest choice is footwear. I usually default to workboots, but they are not always smart.
I agree about black in winter. Black levis and a watch cap are a good combination.
Thanks Simon for the intersting article about layering and all.
I second Peter’s comment here. I struggle with cold feet in winter even with boots. I wonder whether the key is thick wool socks.
If you can, please share your thoughts regarding winter socks.
Personally my feet get too hot rather than too cold, and it’s rare I need extra warmth in winter. But wool socks are great if you do have that problem, and they don’t have to be that thick to make a big difference. Here I was wearing them mostly for the warmth on the legs
For warm feet you need thick soles as in proper boots. Brands like Myrqvist have stylish models. Also size up so that you can fit double or thick woolen socks.
But this is for lengthy walks along the Seine or similar, if you plan to stay an hour or longer outdoors.
Can i recomend the Cambridge Sock Company’s alpaca socks – i have them perfect for cold winter feet
I have found that for relatively smart outfits, shoes with slightly chunkier rubber (dainite or crepe) soles are best for me during the colder and wetter months – much warmer than the leather soles of most of my nicer shoes. I’ve been wearing the Chiltern from C&J in black suede quite a lot this winter, for example. And the Anglo-Italian dessert boots in brown suede. Smart enough for work on most of my days (and evening activities) but much more comfortable than the classic oxford, loafers, derbies etc
Agree with Jan on dainite soles. I don’t *love* dainite generally because I find it doesn’t allow enough flex in the leather elsewhere in the shoe to make for comfortable extended walking. Nevertheless, my dainite soled loake chukka boots are invaluable for dressing formally in snowy, slushy, and very cold eastern European winters.
My personal cold weather travel packing advice would also be 2 pairs of gloves – both formal and casual for dressing up or down your coat. One pair in black leather (matches the boots when formal), one pair of fingerless navy knitted mittens (suitable for keeping your hands warm during casual activities below zero – e.g. buying a metro ticket, holding a glass at a bar, fiddling around with your bag etc)
I find wool felt insoles in boots are good.
The boots keep the ankles warm aswell where blood-flow is nearer the skin surface.
Darn tough heavy weight are great
I live in Canada where it gets very cold in winter. I have a pair of yak felt insoles for my boots that help keep my feet warm.
Have you tried shearling lined boots if you get cold feet? Cheaney do a few pairs, as does Herring shoes (which i think one of the Northampton big boys make for them). For more informal, Goral (Sheffield) do a pair they call Muggs which is a leather trainer boot cross that is shearling lined. The boots I mention are all fully lined so your foot is encased by the shearling as opposed to just the insole, I bought a pair of the original Cheaney tigermoths years ago as I was going to Poland regularly for work, and now use them for going to the football in the winter, they keep my feet nice and warm and have been hard wearing.
Also Uniqlo’s heat tech socks are a good cheap alternative to wool/natural fibres for warm socks.
Longer socks keep your feet warmer. Think of it as insulating the pipes – part of what keeps your feet warm is good blood flow from your core. The long socks insulate the blood vessels delivering blood to your feet. The other things you can look at in a similar vein (sorry, couldn’t resist) are compression socks – improving the blood flow to your feet and keeping them warm.
Very elegant! And layers of wool are great!
The only thing I (as a Swede) would change is to use merino wool instead of cotton as the layer closest to your body. No cotton t-shirt. They trap moisture. Also consider a base layer of merino underwear on your legs, that makes an incredible difference.
And if it is windy, add an outer wind proof layer, but then you’d be wearing a winter parka or similar.
Greetings from Stockholm
Greetings to you Eric! Yes a really good wool base layer under the T-shirt instead of the vest would have worked well, as would the long underwear. The only issue I always find with those is that I’m then too hot when I get indoors, and it’s a faff to take off my trousers and shoes in order to remove the underwear.
What do you guys do?
Yeah, I wouldn’t bother with that in the city much unless for outdoor sports/activities. I’ve started using a double layer of wool over-the-calf socks if it’s really cold for everyday life, going to work etc. Gives you more use out of older more worn down socks as the inner layer as well.
Yes, that is a problem. You’d keep indoors temperatures lower but not everybody does.
I usually try to err on the side of not being too warm.
Another Swede here, I was just about to add the same thought about a base layer beneath the jeans. To me, the trick is to not be top heavy, so losing one layer on the torso would do the trick. Covering your thighs adds a lot of warmth. And from my experience, when it is cold in Paris, it really chills your bones! Probably because of the Seine adding humidity, and the fact that it is a walkable city, so you’re outside a lot. Also, it is a stylish city so I wouldn’t bring the arctic down jackets which are more common up north.
Also, flannel shirts of the slightly dressier kind (i.e. Drake’s or Berg & Berg) insulate well with a t-shirt below and one more layer on top, without lumberjack cosplay.
Nice point on flannel shirts, absolutely.
And you’re right about Paris. We sat for a while outside Le Progres in the Marais watching the fashion people stride and congregate and it got very cold!
A but if along post, but I’ll share some of my experiences living in the Arctic.
First, I think it is important to remember that those living places where the weather is cold is used to it, and would dress a little different because of it. When there is 7 months of winter as it is where I live that is what I am used to, something you would not be able to do when on a travel. My issue would be to go to London in April or May when used to -5 and suddenly have to cope with temperature in the 20’s.
We are probably also more used to the temperature changes from outside to inside, so that may partly answer your question Simon. As such, my experiences may not translate that well to those that live other places, but hopefully it will be if some use.
There are two important principles for dressing in the cold:
1. Layering, but not the type talked about in regards to menswear where the layers are visible to add interest to the attire, instead it is about the function of the layers; having a moisture wicking layer next to the skin (where wool is best, and cotton can be bad as it gets cold when wet), an insulating layer, and a weather protection layer.
2. The other principle is the chimney effect, that heat escape in the top. Menswear with coats and jackets with a flattering V- shape is not great at trapping the heat inside, so a scarf is importantIt is also possible to easily open up when needed. Pretty self-explanatory, but still useful to think of it as a principle.
Personally I often break the first principle and do not use a wool layer next to the skin, but then it is not that cold where I live, -5 to -10 most of the winter. If colder I would certainly add a long-john in wool, and perhaps a wool layer up top as well. I find that the important part when having cotton next to the skin is to make sure excess heat can escape. If you overheat, you sweat, and then you will freeze.
Often I use an oxford shirt or something that is not dense and will allow heat to escape, then a wool or cashmere jacket or sweater. Wool and cashmere are great at regulating temperature and letting excess heat escape, but I find it to be useless at that if the heat is trapped inside a densely woven shirt, or underneath a jacket that does not breathe. Then you will
most likely overheat.
A melton wool coat should probably suffice on top unless it is really cold. The important part is something dense enough that it will protect against the elements, but breathable such as wool. My new favourite jacket is a Filson Mackinaw double cruiser which is warm, breathes very well and protects both against rain and wind. In addition, to avoid the heat from escaping in the neck area, I wear a scarf and of course a beanie. It must be mentioned that I walk to work, so having a moderate activity level, and not going in and out of subways, busses etc.
Thank you Kristian, very interesting
Thanks, Kristian!
Sounds as if you’re on Spitsbergen 🙂
I see you are wearing a short sleeve tee. I need a long-sleeved nowadays as soon as Winter arrives and I’m looking into getting some mock neck tees if I can find them.
I know you are wearing jeans here but if you were wearing wool trousers, lined either half or further down and some high socks, would that do enough to keep the leg area warm or wind-proof so that thermal leggings wouldn’t need to be considered at all?
They can be uncomfortable especially in jeans when going back inside if it’s quite warm and as you say, not really practical to be stripping down to take them off.
I guess it depends a lot on the temperature and other weather conditions. I was fine like this so I would certainly have been OK with wool trousers and the long wool socks, yes. I hadn’t thought about the lining – that would have been helpful in wool trousers too
I made the mistake of going out in Munich in jeans one Christmas for a bit of outdoor socialising to get in the festive spirit.
It was about -10 and another 10 degrees colder with the wind chill. After some time propping up an outdoor bar my knees were so cold they were no longer cold, they were in severe pain!
Lesson learned.
As for long underwear I sometimes use one that is zipped along the legs, that way it can be removed without removing the shoes and pants. Very practical if needed for the cold outside, but then spend times in warmer indoor settings. I usually prefer 3/4 longs, give enough warmth, but not too much 😀 The zip is thin, so not a big issue for the pants, unless they are very thight 😀 (only issue could be at the ancle if wearing boots and full length, which is another reason to go for 3/4 length. Also 3/4 length without zip is usually warm enough outside, but lesser problem inside.
For footwear (in Oslo, Norway) I have found that normal boot (with commando sole) sized up to fit an extra wool insole, is enough to keep me warm (even with normal thin Falke wool socks) if not spending extended time outside, standing still. In fact, I believe (when you are in snowy condition) the isolation towards the ground is the key, hence the extra insole.
I was in Paris about the same time. I agree with Erik. When it’s really cold I use a merino t-shirt, and I used merino long underwear when it got really cold. I run colder than you, Simon, so I don’t get too hot inside. Jeans would never work for me in that leaden cold we had. I relied on flannel and cavalry twill wool trousers (great in the rain and snow), a Shetland jacket, a loden coat, a Barbour jacket for a sodden day when it rained and rained. The loden coat is something I always take on my winter Paris trips because it’s relatively light for an overcoat, takes any kind of weather, and looks proper and stylish there. I had a newsboy cap, but my cashmere beanie never came off my head.
Do you regularly wear Galways with jeans? Aren’t they a little bit to smart?
It depends on the jeans, and what is being worn on top, but yes I often do. My brown suede ones with blue jeans, these black ones with black jeans.
I wouldn’t wear them if I were dressing in a different style, eg with a T-shirt and/or sweatshirt
The right moment for my question, you think a pair of dark brown suede chukkas would cover both occasions? Blue but also dark-grey jeans.
Yes I do
Has there been a change in your personal style where you have gravitated away from polos and shirts to T shirts or is it just for a versatile wardrobe while travelling?
No, as mentioned I had both a T-shirt and a shirt with me on the trip, to have both options. But for the casual option I’d usually prefer a T-shirt with a shawl like this
Hi Simon, any clue about when the PS Donegal coat in light grey will be back in stock? I have already sign in for the waiting list but there’s no reference to when it could be again available. Many thanks for your help.
Hey Miguel – it will be in the autumn, as last year. We will publish an update on all restocks and products in February, but this won’t include winter items like the coats.
Hey Simon,
Have you made the decision yet if you are going to bring back the opportunity to be able to buy the different colours of the donegal fabrics?
Thanks
Not yet, sorry Pete. It should be in the Februrary update on the Shop though
Noted. Unfortunately I missed last restock and was hoping for an additional one before the winter ended. I will be prepared next time. Thank you
Ah, sorry Miguel
When it comes to black jeans you seem to prefer the vintage levi’s pair to the ones from bryceland’s. Is there any reason for this? Or is this my wrong impression?
I like both, but you’re right in general I prefer the Levi’s as they are right now as the fade is better. Over time the Bryceland’s will get there. The Bryceland’s certainly fit me better
What a timely article! I was just visiting the PS Shop to check on the shawl cardigans. Although I live in the Southern USA, the temps dipped to 9F, which was freezing! My go to is the navy donegal with dark wash jeans, chuckkas, and a ribbed wool sweater over a Henley. But I think I’d prefer the shawl cardigan for a more casual elegant option.
Well done article.
Love the hat in the old picture. Maybe not with a blue suit these days, but I think it would work with other colours.
I love layering and combining items – it’s my favourite part of winter/cold weather clothing.
I do think the ‘right’ approach to layering should be to always make sure that when some of the upper layers are removed those underneath still work as a standalone outfit, not one that is weak and only in service of an overall outfit. Plus then you have about three looks in one!
Very true Tom – that can be the headache (or, depending on your point of view, the joy!) of that kind of dressing
The double-edged sword of layering! I think it is both Simon – a headache and a joy.
A headache to make sure it’s all working, a joy when it does
Morning Simon,
I am now on the hunt for a cardigan in the same vein as Pendleton’s Westerley cardigan or something with a similar pattern style in a navy or taupe (I’ve read its called “Cowichan”?). The problem I find with some of these is that they are quite long so whilst the rest of the garment fits well, the length drenches me.
If you have any suggestions for ones with a shorter body length, I’d be most grateful.
Cheers
They do vary quite a lot – I have a great one from RRL that it is shorter, though not sure if there’s anything like that now.
an edit to my cardigan comment – it’s a shawl/collared cardigan I’m after
Thanks Tom, yes understood
Hi Simon,
Thanks for the RRL suggestion – I’ll keep an eye out for them.
If I can pick this up again, do you recommend any particular brands for shawl collar cardigans (similar to your A&S one in above article) that have a slighty deeper V/lower top button? I love the curved shawl shape but I find that some shawl models have the button too high up the body and makes the garment look a bit stuffy and constrictive.
How do you find your A&S one?
I like it, but then I wouldn’t do up the top two buttons probably, and it just rolls outward nicely if you don’t
Great to see you reiterate the importance of material, not as a substitute for cut and design.
Wool is such a superior product to wear for warmth and wicking. By wool, I mean all animal fibres that are made into a fabric. Animal fibres simply replace the hair we lost in the deep distant past and regulate temperature better than any man-made or plant material.
I do not purchase coats, jackets which have any content of artificial fibre, even in small amounts it seems to deplete the near perfect characteristics of pure wool.
This is all pretty much common knowledge to those living in cold climate but as others mention regulating humidity and heat is one of the most important factors when you spend a long day going from outside to inside to outside to inside. If you heat up inside and start to sweat then you will freeze when going out and risk illness. Another important thing is being well rested and having a good warm meal before. If you are already cold when going outside you aren’t going to get much better there.
One thing that is important to me is to always keep the back of my head and neck covered, if you just wear a collar up and cold gets in back there it will start to get uncomfortable quickly. Another thing is to avoid standing still for too long in one place, I try to keep moving, even if it means just walking back and forth.
While I personally don’t feel the cold in the feet as easily, I do have dedicated shearling lined winter boots and coupled with right socks it keeps me warm enough. Again if you stand still for extended periods of time in really cold weather, it doesn’t matter what shoes you have on, you will get cold. I learned that back when I worked part time job as land surveyor during school. So keep the blood pumping.
This seems like a temperature and level of formality that the PS “English Tweed” coat would have been ideal for. Could you talk us through your decision to go for the Donegal instead?
It would have worked well, you’re right, and been suitably easy to undo, as well as warm. The only functional difference was I couldn’t remove the fur liner, and honestly that was probably the main reason – that I wanted to use that lovely liner
Thanks!
Hi Simon,
Really appreciate the Dry January posts as they have helped me get more creative with my own outfits. I think the second photo is a great summation of the Colour Theory article from earlier this month. Tones, texture, and layering, its all there. Very well done.
Cheers
Nice to hear, thanks Andrew
This looks great! What size do you take the shawl cardigan in? Thanks!
Medium
Hi Simon,
This outfit is very nice!
John
Please remember to wear proper collared shirt. The undershirt is in bad taste.
Thanks Picco, but I think we must just have different styles
Any plans to re-stock the t shirts in the PS shop?
As mentioned above, there will be our usual shop update in February listing everything
No gloves Simon?
I had some with me, but my hands were in the nice cashmere-lined pockets most of the time. I only really put the gloves on when I was carrying my bag (not the morning pictured)
Simon, I do think your missing the boat by not wearing wool or cashmere knitted ties in cold weather. I realize it’s not “cool”, but it’s the most efficient choice. I would also encourage you to grow your head hair out, or try a different form of hat like a Tweed bucket cap. Acute Style on instagram wears them well. There’s a lot of hats out there that you could also try, good fodder for the website
Are you really suggesting a wool or cashmere knitted tie is warmer Ivan?
A wool or cashmere knitted tie usually requires a shirt. A heavyweight shirt is almost always warmer then a heavyweight T-shirt since it has a collar. If you like rounded shapes and forms then have your shirts made with rounded points on the collar, cuffs and pockets etc. rather then wearing a T-shirt with it’s rounded crew neckline.
Ivan, I was wearing a huge cashmere shawl. A shirt collar or a tie wasn’t going to make any difference
Haha what an odd comment! How can you ‘encourage’ a bald man (sorry, Simon, but it’s a trait I share too) to ‘grow his head hair out’?! Isn’t that like encouraging a short man to grow a few inches, or to encourage a woman to grow out her beard a little?
Jackson, I think it’s a perfectly sensible comment. Head hair refers to the crown, heel of the head and also the wings at the side and the tail at the back.
It’s a choice to round the corners of ones head. With head hair, more is more, and less is less. Head hair that’s intricately styled adds depth, complexity and visual interest. The world rewards men with more head hair, the same is not true of men with less head hair. Work with what you have.
No because height is fixed for adults asides from posture.
Not really the same because women’s levels of testosterone are not the same as mens, and the accompanying alopecia and facial hair grown is not the same.
I would also recommend Finasteride and oral minoxidil to save and try to re-grow whatever hair you have remaining. Perhaps even a hair system for the crown area.
Wow. As a bald man who resembles Simon….just wow.
I think that with the beard Simon is sporting in these pictures he is doing a pretty good job of growing the head hair out! In terms of hats, I do struggle with my watch cap; it is too small for my liking (and/or head), messes with my hair too much (I do still have quite a bit of hair on the top of my head) and it’s just to casual for many occasions. So I have ventured into tweed flat cap territory recently and it took me a bit of time to get used to this (it is a bit of a ‘look’) but a neutral coloured cap with a bit of texture (like a grey / brown herringbone) is a really good alternative in the smart casual category for me.
Hi simon, over the recent years i notice a decline in the number of menswear bloggers to the point where yours and maybe ethan wong are the only 2 left. Even sites i used to frequent such as put this on, and die workwear post maybe 3 to 4 articles a year which i suppose is in line with broader decline of text based websites. What are your views on this decline and will you ever see yourself transitioning to more video based content including tik tok etc to reach out to more audience.
Hey Shem,
Yes, I think you’re probably right, it’s a shame.
We have expanded slightly and will probably continue to do so, but I don’t see us ever leaving the text-based, long-form article. It’s so much better for many reasons, including searchability, the big and easy-to-use archive, and so on. I think the growth of Substack accounts is a sign of the enduring power of this.
Also, my philosophy has generally been to follow our reader’s preferences, rather than the market as a whole. We’ll do another reader survey soon and see what that says, but my impression from last time, and speaking to readers since, is that while all of them use social media, they don’t value the recommendations and information there anywhere near as much as that on a long-form content website.
S
Very well put. Instagram and co. can never replace the background information and arguments and above all the technical articles on types of clothes or weaving, or the historical background of casual chic or Ivy etc.
Oh, one PS. The Genleman’s Gazette has solid background information and honest quality reviews, I believe. I just have to ignore the style (and style advice) of the runners of this webpage, which is very much what I do not intend to wear.
Hi Simon. I think the “Dry January” pieces have shown long-form writing at its best . A super way to start the year. Long may you and this format flourish.
Thank you Daniel, that’s lovely to hear
Been looking for a place to comment this and finally found the spot: if you’re running a survey, please include a question on a grey version of the ps undershirt. I will buy two!
Thanks Calvin. I think it’s unlikely we will, as the minimums are in the hundreds, but noted anyway!
This is very cool Simon. Something about how the colours interact that is very satisfying. And I dont mind the t-shirt, as some suggested herein. Since you are wearing jeans, t-shirt is the right choice for sure.
Paris in winter is a tricky vacation wardrobe. It’s freezing outside for the long walks, then the indoor destinations (mall, cafe, restaurant, museum, etc) you’re instantly sweaty and encumbered with heavy outer garments over the crook of your arm. First world problem…
Harris Tweed sportcoat with scarf and watch cap are great during the outside walks and (scarf/hat) relatively small to tuck away while indoors.
Like you note, as a swede it seems exessive to have so many layers in those temperatures – but that’s down to personal preference for sure.
While perhaps not as stylish, I find the very thin down vests sold at uniqlo a marvelous thing to pack for trips like this. Weighs nothing, hides under the coat and adds a lot of warmth. I have one that’s extra thin and can convert between a deeper v and a crew neck, so no tall collar, which is extra suitable for this kind of layering.
On ocassion I also wear a big cashmere/silk shawl from stoffa wrapped around my torso, similar to your pitti flashback. Adds a lot more warmth than one would expect, but it’s definitely a look that will turn some heads.
Yes I can see that!
I can definitely see the practicality of the Uniqlo ones, I just wish there were some better looking versions, eg in a cotton/nylon mix like Eddie Bauer and related brands used to do. The shine of the nylon seems so out of keeping with classic menswear textures to me. Sorry JB!
That’s why I like the particular model mentioned, it’s a lot more matte than the standard ones, but I hear you. But I also have to admit I don’t mind the odd shine every now and again.
men in shawls? i don’t see it.
I like the cardigan and how it’s styled here. The taupe warms and softens the black.
Simon, could this color of cardigan work with indigo jeans or is a grey more appropriate?
Exactly.
You could wear it with indigo jeans, yes.
Hi Simon, any plans to restock the brown Donegal coat? I understood that this particular version was not to be restocked but another brown version perhaps?
The brown donegal will not be restocked, no, though we may make the cloth available again.
There are no plans to make another brown coat in that style I’m afraid.
I don’t know where to post this, so please ignore me if I am in the wrong internet venue
I would like some guidance on where to buy:
1. Grenadine ties;
2. Guayaberas
3. Solid color bow ties (any material)..
I LOVE Permanent Style
Cordially,
Keith
Hi Keith,
– Grenadines, look at HN White or Shibumi I think
– Guayaberas, I don’t know any in the UK but there’s a good piece here with some ideas
– Bow ties I have no idea as I’ve never bought them, but perhaps the older haberdashers in Mayfair like Budd, New & Lingwood, Ede & Ravenscroft
Hi Simon,
How does the thickness of this shawl cardigan compare to that of the PS Indulgent shawl cardigan?
And yes, a piece on shawls would be very nice!
Thanks and keep up the great work!
Cheers Luis.
It’s not as thick, I’d say maybe 2/3 or so
Yes, please Simon, do write about shawls. Rarely worn with Western clothing but I have seen a couple of men pull that look off with aplomb.
OK, thanks Cheong, will do
Never really entertained cardigans much in the past. Not too sure if any will be acquired going forward, but this blog has somewhat removed that former irksome disposition towards them due to their once perhaps incorrect association with bent over old men in comfy slippers..
Yes they can be worn in very different ways – unlike some things, it’s something you have to give style to often though
That’s a beautiful cardigan. Could you please comment on the comfort of the wool, particularly when worn with something like a tee-shirt. Merino can be a bit hit or miss for me in terms of scratchiness. Thank you!
I don’t find it scratchy at all. You don’t have the softness of cashmere, but it’s smooth and I’d be surprised if anyone found it scratchy.
From a purist knitter’s point of view, the only downside to the style is there is a seam on the back on the collar. But that doesn’t bother me
Hi Simon, have you made up your mind re EG Utah leather? I think I remember you had mixed feelings about it. I am currently considering the Cranleigh in black Utah. It should not develop a patina like regular calf but for a such casual boot, I do think it could work well. Do you concur?
Yes I do. I like it in a more casual piece like that
Hi Simon – I’m wondering how the liner went, given you had it made for another coat?
Did you add buttons to this coat, too, or just wear it as a floating layer of its own?
I added buttons to this coat, yes
Hello, Simon. What’s your favorite last for the EG Galway? 202 or 82? What’s your opinion of EG Connemara boots? Thanks so much!
Hey,
I like both, but probably prefer the 202 these days. Both are subtle though – depends whether you like a slightly rounder or slightly longer last.
I like the Connemara, but personally prefer the Cranleigh for that kind of more rugged-looking boot
Hi Simon,
Where would you place EG 64 last in terms of formality and versatility? What outfits would you prefer to pair with them? Which color Rosewood or Walnut would you consider more versatile for more workwear wardrobe?
For refresher:
I appreciate your thought.
The 64 is pretty round, so more towards the casual end of the spectrum, though of course it depends on other factors too, like the welt, sole etc.
I would wear it quite casually, like the boots you link to, and would think both could be versatile for a workwear wardrobe – but walnut much more so for a slightly smarter one
Hi Simon,
Are the sunglasses black as well? If so, this seems to be a really nice alternative to dark browns and tortoiseshell patterns. There’s no denying the versatility of dark brown, but arguably, black is nearly as versatile, but certainly adds a different element of personality.
They’re a very dark brown, but yes look pretty much black. Perhaps a very dark brown is nicer in that it has a little depth. Plain black can look a little cheap or plasticky