Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
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They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
This groundwork for this video was laid two weeks ago, when we examined the various aspects of the cut of a jacket. It might be worth watching that first, if you haven't already. It showed the most important points of cut and structure, from the siz...
Video: English and Neapolitan jackets compared
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There's always one in there - just needs to be controlled now and again!...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
At the prompting of readers, I will be doing some more video pieces over the coming months, looking at different aspects of suit style. These new, slightly shorter films will be a nice accompaniment to the Style Breakdown series - where I measure an...
Video: The cut and parts of a bespoke jacket
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Thank you. I'm afraid that number of takes, audio and editing is a bit beyond our budget/time, but thank you for the suggestions - I'll bring them up with the team....
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
Kathryn Sargent, perhaps unexpectedly, is one of the most structured and square-shouldered of the suit styles in this series. The make is most similar to Huntsman, which we featured here as a hunting jacket in their house tweed, while Chittleboroug...
Kathryn Sargent chalk-stripe suit: Style Breakdown
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I think it can, yes, but it helps if it's not in business-type colours like grey or navy...
Kathryn Sargent: finished women’s jacket
This is the final jacket that my wife commissioned from Kathryn Sargent at the beginning of the year. It was actually ready a couple of months ago, but it seemed more relevant to organise the shoot when the weather actually suited a tweed jacket. My ...
Kathryn Sargent: finished women’s jacket
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I'm not really sure I can help there, sorry...
The BTBA summer party
Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. Three Anderson & Shep...
The BTBA summer party
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No, I'm afraid not. It looks very similar to my W Bill linen though: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/07/spanish-tailors.html...
Dandy pieces in RISD Museum exhibition
Beginning in April, the Museum of the Rhode Island School of Design in the US will be holding an exhibition of clothing drawn from its archives and borrowed from sources around the world – including our own, inimitable Guy Hills and customers ...
Dandy pieces in RISD Museum exhibition
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Yes, that what I say in the piece. The comment made above is incorrect....
Women’s tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
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Women’s tailoring at Kathryn Sargent
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Thank you...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4
The Gieves travel blazer is finished and has turned out wonderfully well. First the fit, for that is the most important thing after all. After three fittings everything on the jacket is perfect, from the shape through the waist, to the sleeve length,...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 4
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Hi Edward, Sure. On the front of the jacket, there were circular buttonholes sewn, which a button on a shank could be put through, and clipped on the other side. This is fairly easy with buttons that have a shank, like a...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 2
The most interesting aspect of watching the cutting for the Perfect Travel Blazer this week was, oddly, not the blazer but the trousers we are making to go with it. These are in a mid-grey, 9/10 ounce fresco from J&J Minnis. Fresco is such a...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 2
The most interesting aspect of watching the cutting for the Perfect Travel Blazer this week was, oddly, not the blazer but the trousers we are making to go with it. These are in a mid-grey, 9/10 ounce fresco from J&J Min...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 1
John Durnin of Gieves & Hawkes does a lot of travelling, as I do myself. It was while discussing recent trips, and standing in the new Gieves Blazer Room, that we conceived the idea of creating the perfect travel blazer. The plan is this. We...
Gieves & Hawkes: The perfect travel blazer 1
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What fabric would you recommend for mid weight hopsack...
The Gieves staff locked in Buckingham Palace
At 7:30am this morning Andrew Brett and the other staff of Gieve & Hawkes’s military department dressed 12 members of the Queen’s bodyguard at Buckingham Palace. The uniforms were carried over from No 1 Savile Row last ni...
The Gieves staff locked in Buckingham Palace
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Either way keep up the excellent quality writing, it's rare to see a nice blog like this one nowadays....
