Back in 2017, Jamie Ferguson and I visited fabric mills in Japan - like Hosoo, in Kyoto (pictured below), which produces the most extraordinary silks.
It was really interesting to see the weaving side of Japanese heritage, and the typically innovative and detail-oriented approach.
Although Japan does have mills that produce a full range of tailoring and shirting cloth, it's fair to say it's not generally a world leader in either. It's still catching up with Italy in that regard.
It is, however, the best place in the world to find silk, denim and chambray.
I've been looking to find a nice, narrow-loom chambray cloth for a while.
I thought it would be a nice complement to the other PS oxfords and denims; but I also wanted something more casual and open weave than the European mills typically offer to shirtmakers.
I was excited, therefore, when 100 Hands said last year that they had sourced a similar chambray, as part of a new denims collection.
The cloth was everything I had wanted in terms of texture and weave. And it was enhanced further by being treated in 100 Hands' washing facility - a new operation that is allowing them to garment wash bespoke shirts.
The result is an incredibly soft, narrow-woven material that wears in beautifully, getting better with every wear and wash.
Most Japanese chambrays are closely woven and a little compact. The open weave of this one makes it softer and more breathable, producing a lovely handfeel.
The vintage shuttle looms also help with that softness, giving the cloth an easy movement and stretch.
The issue with narrow-loom Japanese fabrics is normally shrinkage, but this is where the 100 Hands washing process is helpful. Their enzyme wash removes the shrinkage, stabilising the fabric as well as removing any excess indigo.
The cloth is a little heavier than some summer chambrays, at 143g/m. But its open weave makes it wearable pretty much all year round.
In terms of colour, it has the typical indigo-and-white weave of chambray, which gives it that denim-like style but flatter and subtly textured.
And it has the nice detail of a selvedge, which you can choose to include on part of the shirt if you wish.
I've seen shirts where it is used on the front edge, next to the buttons - so it shows where the shirt is undone. I went for the subtler option of putting it on the inside of the cuff placket.
While indigo chambray is not as versatile a white or blue oxford, I do find it goes with a range of other colours.
It's great with navy, denim, and darker shades of brown and green.
I also particularly like it with cream, as shown above, and it works with other pale colours like beige. Good for chinos and jeans.
It's definitely a casual fabric, but like denim, makes a nice contrast with softly cut tailoring as well.
I was expecting to like the chambray with cream and navy, but the more casual options were a pleasant surprise.
It shouldn’t have been, given chambray is such a mainstay of workwear wardrobes, but still it was nice to see how good the cloth looked with denim, with olive or khaki chinos, and with brown leather.
In the image above, this is shown well with it under a suede shirt-jacket from RRL. And it’s lovely with a Valstarino or similar blouson jacket as well.
A regular denim combination for me now is this chambray, my darker MTM Levi’s, and cordovan loafers.
At the moment, we're only offering the chambray cloth, not completed shirts. The cloth is available on the PS Shop as per normal, here.
The fact that it is woven on traditional, narrow looms means it is far slower to produce, and we need to sell longer lengths - 2.5m rather than the normal 2m. That plus the washing and importing make the chambray rather more expensive than the other PS cloths, but we've reduced the margin to keep it to £79 each.
As ever, if you want to send a length straight to a shirtmaker, please put them as the shipping address; include your name as a reference in that address; and let them know it is coming.
And 100 Hands have the cloth already in stock, so if you want a shirt made by them, just contact them directly - don't bother ordering from the PS Shop. They are doing MTO and MTM remotely, as well as remote bespoke orders for existing customers.
Technical details:
- Cloth is 100% cotton, 143 gram / Mtl (GSM 130)
- Yarn count 40/1 x 20/1
- Width is 1.1m (being a vintage loom) and is therefore sold in lengths of 2.5m, unlike the 2m of other PS cloths
- Woven by Maruwa, Japan
- Narrow, vintage looms with selvedge
- Shrinkage should be the same as any modern, compact cloth, 1-2%
Clothes pictured:
- Suede shirt-jacket from RRL
- Made-to-measure jeans from Levi's
- Cashmere crewneck from Colhay's
- Cream corduroy trousers from Pommella
Photography: Milad Abedi
Note: We normally try to keep new product launches, and so corresponding articles, to one every three weeks or so. There will be more than that in the coming months, just because nothing was manufactured for three months during lockdown, so now those delayed products are arriving at the same time as scheduled ones. Apologies in advance, and hopefully readers will find the articles and photography interesting, even if they're not buying. Simon.
Hi Simon. Very interesting. Could you please clarify if the cloth offered in the shop
has been processed in washing by 100 Hands or not. From the article it seems yes
Thanks
L.
Yes it has – all pieces have, that’s part of the point. Sorry if that wasn’t clear.
Hi Simon,
Very interesting and versatile fabric, as usual. I have noticed that you have worked in these shirt fabrics and I’m interested if you are going to release some collaboration for jackets cloth again soon (not counting the Escorial Tweed since, while stunning, are the same as the previous year). Particularly interested in some summer jacketing cloth (since I tend to overheat easily).
On that note, if you could, what kind of summer jacketing cloth would you go for? I find that pure linen usually look too much as an orfan jacket and most summer jacket bunches have too strong patters on them and doesn’t have that lovely simplicity of Harris/Donegal Tweed
Hey Tamaki,
Thanks. No, we don’t have any other current plans for cloth collaborations.
If you want tips on summer jackets and their cloths though, it’s best starting with the article here. Also worth looking at the comments, and if you have any questions that aren’t answered, add a comment yourself so I can reply there.
Cheers
Is this the same cloth Drake´s used for a shirt last year?
No. It has been developed exclusively by us and 100 Hands, and is only available through PS
I imagine style wise you would recommend having this made into a button-down shirt?
Would love an article on Japanese mills (particularly silk) or tips on where we can get our hands on some.
Yes, given it’s a casual cloth, that’s probably best. Though it would look nice as a spread or a point too.
I presume you’ve read the little we did on Hosoo and their silk?
Very nice looking cloth.
Certainly worth consideration.
I note that PS has done shirt fabric and jacket cloth on the basis that you’re filling specification /need not available.
So is there a gap in trouser cloth for PS to fulfill ?
Good point. There are some, though mostly summer linens. Namely a very dark olive, and a pale cream like the one I made by Jean-Manuel Moreau suit out of. Most other creams are too yellow, or it’s just white.
Simon
Do you know if 100 Hands will work with customers in the United States? I have tried to contact them in the past and have not received a response. Thanks.
They certainly will, and do. I’m afraid I don’t know why they haven’t responded to inquiries.
Hello John, Apologies if we missed responding in the past. We are normally quite swift and take good care of it. Happy to assist you in the best manner. My direct email id is [email protected]
Hi Simon,
Congratulations on this latest chambray cloth with 100hands.
Is the shirt made by 100hands? How do you find their button-down collar style in comparison to your usual LA button-down collar?
Yes, this shirt is by 100 Hands. It is lovely, but I do prefer the collar style I have from Luca
Could you please tell us some differences compared to the L.A.-button down-collar?
It’s not easy to describe in words I’m afraid Alexander, as it’s mostly the geometry of the collar curves and angles. But the LA has a curve around a jacket collar that I find more pleasing and natural – hence why it’s used in the RTW ones
Do you think this could work as an over shirt? Or is it a little too light?
Probably not. Less because of its weight, and more its softness and open weave. You usually want something that has more body and drape in an overshirt, so denser
How does one order from 100hands? From their website even the shop online button does not work (at least not for me); so for MtM,…?
There’s no online system for it, as they don’t normally do it remotely – you need to email them
Looking forward to checking this out in the future.
As a passing comment, I actually prefer it when there’s a slew of product launches in a short period. I then decide what I want and order several items at once, saving on shipping costs, and lessening the hassle of dealing with customs multiple times. So on my end, no need to apologize for having several launches coming up quickly. 🙂
Thanks, and good to know. I will try and let everyone know what’s coming up when we do these kinds of posts. Quite a few people said that would be helpful when we did the readers survey, so they could plan their spending.
I second Chancellor’s comment.
Why would an enzyme wash be needed to remove shrinkage? Wouldn’t normal washing do the same?
Conventionally, people used to soak or ‘shrink’ cotton fabrics meant for shirts/ similar attire for a few hours in water before handing them to the tailor so it doesn’t shrink further once made
Yes, many shirtmakers will still do that.
An enzyme wash is a slightly more reliable way to control the washing process. It also helps with the softening.
I have been looking for a shirting fabric like this for 5 years or so, and thus purchase almost didn’t require any thought. Will have to store it away for post-covid times though.
Hi Simon,
Just to clarify, does the washing process get out all the shrinkage (by all, I mean what would occur in 3 or 4 x 40 degree wash cycles)? And would that also apply to the PS Denim shirting?
Yes it does. As mentioned in the bullet points towards the end, shrinkage is reduced to a tiny amount, usually around 1%. That’s the minimum amount possible you get on all shirtings, in any weave, from any mill.
PS Everyday Denim also has virtually no shrinkage, but that’s not a result of the washing, just the way the nature of the cloth, its yarn and weave.
The PS Oxford, however, will have some shrinkage. Oxford cloths are notorious in this regard. With ours it’s usually around 1-2cm on the sleeve length and 2-3cm on the body length. The Oxford shirts are made that little bit larger to accommodate this.
Looks lovely! Are you planning on releasing a rtw shirt ? If so any idea when / costings?
We don’t have details yet I’m afraid, but we should do, yes. Price will be similar to the other shirts – maybe a touch higher just reflecting the cost of the cloth.
Hi Simon- Beautiful fabric, this may be the next shirt I order from 100 hands. Are those the EG Greenwich in cordovan you are wearing in the last photo? The slim last looks fantastic in that burgundy cordovan. Very elegant look with jeans.
Cheers. No it’s just my Belgravia in dark oak.
Simon — This looks like a great addition to the line-up.
I had two related questions — (1) Does the shirt shown here have a placket? It looks like no, but it does include a line of stitching where the placket would be. (2) In general, is there a pattern to when you decide to have your shirts made with a placket?
1) No it doesn’t have a placket, there is just a line of hand stitching on the underside that keeps that piece of folded-under cloth in place.
2) Generally I have more casual ones made with a placket, more formal ones without. But I don’t mind too much if casual ones don’t have a placket; personally it matters more to me that formal ones don’t have one, if that makes sense.
Thanks, Simon. That makes sense. On the casual side, it seems to me that a shirt without a placket will sometimes come open a bit more at the neck when worn with the collar unbuttoned. For me, that seems to suit a lighter-weight, more summery shirt — less so with something like an oxford.
Hi Simon,
I’m sure you’ll get to this when cover the shirt. But there seems to be a beautiful line of stitching where a placket would be. Is there a name for this kind of stitch? And do you think it exists somewhere between a placket and no-placket in formality? (Or are my eyes deceiving me entirely!)
Thank you and best,
Miles
Nice spot Miles. That’s hand stitching on the shirt, fixing the folded down element on the underside.
It doesn’t really have a name, and I think is more subtle in reality – the light is just catching it here. It is a nice outward sign of handwork though.
Love chambray shirtings, Simon, so very keen on this. However, I’ve only ever bought the PS shirts readymade; I’ve never had a shirt made bespoke or MTM, and don’t have a relationship or experience with any shirtmakers – certainly not ones in Naples. Any advice for a first timer in that regard (or old posts to point me to, to save you time)? Cheers.
Thanks Joe.
I haven’t done a huge amount on advice on going to a shirtmaker, but we did do this video on the fitting process.
Or did you mean which maker should you use?
Yes, more makers. And – though I know you’ve said Italians are better at casual shirts – probably English ones, realistically. Thanks.
Ok, sure. Well of the English ones I’d certainly recommend Budd for the full English bespoke side. Or perhaps Drake’s for something for casual and machine made?
Nice shine on them then!
Yes, there is. Built up over a good while – there’s a piece on them here in case you’re interested.
I’d love to hear from Simon / broader community about US-based shirtmakers that will work with customer-supplied cloth. I’ve reached out to a couple and they were not open to working with customer-supplied fabrics. Any suggestions ?
That’s interesting. Did you tell them where the cloth was made? Particularly with the other cloths we sell, they’re from large mills (Albini and Canclini) that the shirtmakers will be using anyway.
I know some customers have used CEGO shirts in New York, and I believe some have used Proper Cloth – the former high-end bespoke, the latter more mass MTM
I didn’t tell them where the cloth was from, it was more of a general inquiry if customer-supplied cloth was “on the menu”. To my emailed inquiries, Mercer said “no”, Proper Cloth said “no” (so if there is a back-door approach please let me know!). Since posting my original comment I’ve reached out to Hamilton, who said “yes” with the condition that after inspection they may decline to make a shirt depending on the fabric. The common theme was the shirtmakers were hesitant to commit to a fabric they did not have experience using.
Yes, they will always be hesitant about that, because they are effectively taking on the risk of how it performs when they accept it from you.
But if you say it’s from one of those mills – and with some places, also say it’s from PS – it will often be OK
Simon,
Sorry, may be it was already addressed: Will you have Luca Avitabile to come up with a final shirt offered in your shop at a later date?
Thanks
Axel
It was above, yes. We haven’t confirmed it yet, but the plan is to offer shirts at some point, yes
Hi Simon,
Luca A has made shirts for me, so has my measurements. What’s the most pragmatic way of getting fabric to him? Order through PS website with him as ship to? Or are there any plans to “batch” deliver some of the fabric to him? (I’m not in any particular hurry)
Thanks,
Matt
Yes, buy through PS and put him down for delivery address (with your name in there too, as a reference)
We’re not batching cloth to makers at the moment, but we do hope too at some point
My length has just arrived – it’s rather wonderful, and I’m thinking a collarless shirt. I’m also thinking it would make a lovely dressing gown but I’ll need to ask my shirt-maker if he could do that from 2 lengths?
I think it might be a little too light and soft for a dressing gown. Pyjamas or a nighshirt maybe.
I agree with you Simon. We have made pajama shirts and long night shirts in this fabric but for a gown, pasting or lining might be required to give it some structure.
Regards
Akshat, 100Hands
What’s the distinction of the cloth being woven on a narrow loom vs. presumably a “wide” loom? Both in terms of the production process and differences in the finished product. Would the analogy be to a garment being handmade vs. machine made – subtly better in a je ne sais quoi kind of way? Thank you.
Generally, a narrow loom is operated slower and less mechanically. It generally means it produces a cloth that is softer, or more open, or less uniform. And it is often better at handling more delicate yarns. But it doesn’t have to, necessarily. It just gives you the ability to do that, where a modern, high-speed loom cannot. So it’s not a guarantee of any particular product, more a means.
I sat on this too long and missed the opportunity. Do you expect to make another run and, if so, when? Thank you.
Yes, and we’re just looking at availability now. Do email [email protected] if you want to be on the waiting list – that means you get an alert when they’re available, and ahead of everyone else, as the alert comes before the public announcement.
Hi Simon,
Great fabric, it’s amazing.
What other releases for fabric will you he having in the pipeline?
Nothing for a couple of months at least. Next will likely be an extension of the Oxford range
Can you post a picture of how you did the cuff placket?
Sure, I’ll try and take one
Simon — I see that this fabric is out of stock on your shop page. Congratulations on the positive reception. Do you expect that supplies will be re-stocked at some point in the future?
Hey. Yes, we are expecting more at the end of the year hopefully
already sold out…. any plans for a second bunch?
Yep, hopefully later in the year. Do email [email protected] if you’d like to be on the waiting list
Hi Simon,
You mentioned that this shirt can be used all year around, but the weight seems to be on the light side (at least compared to say the PS Oxford). Im wonder if it would be suitable in the autumn /winter if one is only wearing a shirt inside.
Yes I think it would be – it’s pretty similar to a lot of dress shirts. The Oxford is heavier than most.
Hi Simon,
Could you please comment on how and why selvedge chambray uniquely fades and changes color over time? It seems to age differently than denim and also appears to fade more than dyed cotton yarn used in a typical blue Oxford weave shirt.
Thanks
Hi Tim,
Without going into all the technical details here, the important thing isn’t the fact that it’s selvedge – that’s more an indicator that this might have more craft or attention paid to it – and more the way the yarn is dyed. As with denim, but different to oxford, the yarn is usually not dyed all the way through, meaning as the surface comes off it reveals some of the white core.
The effect is different on chambray as opposed to denim because chambray usually has both white and coloured yarns, while denim has just the coloured; and because chambray is a plain weave, and denim a twill.
Simon, do you have any updates as to offering RTW shirts in this cloth?
Not yet, sorry. It will be the end of the year though realistically, sorry.
Hello Simon,
Out of matter of interest how hard wearing would this cloth be?
Thanks!
Quite hard wearing, about the same as a regular dress shirt. It’s not as fine as a dress shirt, but more open. It’s not like a heavy denim or Western shirt that would be much more hard-wearing
Thank you for the answer!!
Simon, I see this is sold out on your on-line shop. Are there plans to make more available?
Hi Jonathan,
Yes, we’re hoping for more at the end of the year. There is a waiting list if you would like an alert when it’s ready – just email [email protected]
Cheers
I’ve sent an email for waiting list for this cloth when it’s available at the end of the-year. Pls inform me in due course.
great, thanks. you should get a confirmation from the support team
Do you think a normal dress shirt collar would work for this fabric. i.e. no button down. It could be interesting but am keen to hear your opinion. Thank you.
Yes it could. I wouldn’t wear it with a tie, and wouldn’t have a super-spread collar. But a normal spread or point would look fine. If you look at vintage denim and chambray shirts, a non-button down was more common.
Hello Simon – what colour buttons would work best with this? White?
I’d go for mother of pearl, ideally a cream or slightly yellowy white
Hi Simon,
I got my selvedge chambray shirt today and I was immediately surprised by how soft the fabric is! Truly incredible, I didn’t quite realise how much difference the garment washing process would make. It’s also quite stretchy as if it contained a small percentage of elastane or wool (I didn’t imagine it would be possible with just cotton).
I had passed on the first batch because I didn’t think it would be that different to other chambrays but in the end I went for it on the basis of how nice the PS Oxford fabric is. I’m happy I did, as much as I like the PS Oxfords (my most worn shirts) I think this selvedge might be more special in the long run. Perhaps a similar woven and washed fabric could be made in other colours ?
Hi Noel,
I’m so pleased to hear that. The stretch comes from the open weave created by the hand-loomed process, as does much of the softness.
I’m not sure whether other colours will be possible with this mill, but we’ll certainly look into it.
S
Any plans on restock?
On the chambray, yes there should be some in a couple of months – email [email protected] for updates and getting on the waiting list. Cheers
I received this shirt today and wanted to echo the comments of one of your readers that you quoted on the shop page. I already had a chambray shirt and passed on the first batch of this as i didn’t think i just justify another. I persuaded myself that there is room in a wardrobe for two chambray shirts, however, and i am delighted that i did. The cloth is amazing and substantially nicer than my Finamore chambray shirt. In particular, the PS chambray is richer in both color and texture. Great job, Simon!
Would bespoke or mtm chambray shirt have the same problem as suffered by cotton trousers?
Would it not be as casual as a ready to wear chambray offered by retail stores?
It wouldn’t necessarily be smarter no, but you could make it a little smarter through the collar and other design details you chose
Simon!
What is your opinion on olive and maroon chambray?
Olive can be nice. Not the most versatile but fairly easy to wear. Never even seen maroon!
Go for a 15 if you’re happy with every other aspect of the fit Jack – not just the body, but the shoulders for example.
I’m wearing a medium Jack.
The best way to get a sense of whether the small will fit you, is to compare the measurements to a shirt you already own. Have you tried that?
No, I don’t think it would
Hello Simon. I had this shirt listed as my future buys, but since I already bought the PS Everyday Denim – Shirt that is pretty much the same colour and similar styling options. Would you recommend or suggest having this shirt as well? Let me know what your thoughts and and your thought process in a similar situation as mine. Thank you Simon.
I think it depends how many shirts you have – it is different in feel, texture and slightly colour
Hi Simon. Would you say this shirt works with a tie? If so what material? Also, what formal trouser material and colours would it work with? Would it work with worsted trousers?
I’m considering wearing it to my office. Usually I would wear a poplin shirt, trousers either worsted wool or wool, occasionally a jacket, occasionally an Oxford shirt.
Thanks for your help.
It’s not the most obvious to wear with a tie, and so not every tie will work with it. But a dark navy knitted silk is nice.
Yes, it can look nice with worsted trousers – a little unexpected, but the style of the shirt makes it easier to wear with worsted (no pockets etc).
Thanks Simon. I wore it today, with a blue silk tie with a small pattern, navy trousers, dark brown oxford brogues. I think it looked good!
Nice. Try it with the knit tie too if you get a chance
Hello Simon. I was looking at these https://clutch-cafe.com/collections/anatomica/products/anatomica-x-big-yank-1935-chambray-work-shirt-natural. The sleeves hem are cut differently in this chambray shirt. The other colour I liked is this https://clutch-cafe.com/collections/anatomica/products/anatomica-x-big-yank-1935-chambray-work-shirt-indigo (pale blue). I want to know your thoughts on the style and makes of these two specific shirts from Anatomica.
I haven’t tried those specifically Amit so I can’t say I’m afraid
Hi Simon,
In a comment on another article you mentioned that this fabric will be restocked. It’s my favourite shirt by far, so I wondered if there are plans to produce this fabric in different colours ?
No sorry Noel, no plans for other colours
Hi, will there be a restock any time soon?
I’m working on an update article on all the shop things, that should be up next week. I’ll check on the progress of our re-order and put that in there if that’s ok
Do chambray shirt look good with jeans or would you advice for chinos with it?
It can look look, as it does here. Usually best if there’s contrast between the two of them – they’re not too similar a colour
Would a darker chambray like this match with olive jacket?
Yes that could look nice
Would tan round suede loafers as replacement to your loafers in the last look with denim look fine? You have advised for a lighter shirt with tan shoes and just wanted to be sure that whether a medium blue color like this look good or not
I’d go for a darker loafer in that situation
Does the same rule apply to white shoes as well or could a darker shirt work for white sneakers?
For more casual things like sneakers it matters a lot less
If I were to purchase this fabric,could Luca Avitabile make a good denim shirt from it?
Yes
That’s encouraging.
Lindsay
Would one length (2.5m) be enough to make a shirt out of? Same for the other oxfords, would one length of the green striped Oxford (2m) for a shirt?
Yes, that’s the idea Tony. Unless you’re very tall or very large in the chest, it’s enough for everyone