The guide to jacket pockets

July 27th 2020

  As ever in the lovely, international, interactive community that is Permanent Style, this article was spurred by a reader. He asked about the appropriate configuration of jacket pockets on a suit he was ordering, and I realised we hadn&rsq...

The guide to jacket pockets

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Absolutely....

Jackets - SuitsJuly 27th 2020

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

June 3rd 2020

  This post was originally written in 2012: a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried personally (rather than just written about), split into different countries. It was updated in 2016, and I have updated it again now in 2020, adding a fu...

The (55) bespoke tailors I have known

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Hey Joel - I don't know much about her I'm afraid, certainly nothing first-hand...

June 3rd 2020

New York bespoke tailors – Updated

January 29th 2019

This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misinf...

New York bespoke tailors – Updated

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Thanks Simon, very much appreciated!...

January 29th 2019

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

August 3rd 2018

“The therapy I never knew I needed.” That was how one reader described our reader dinner at Huntsman last year, and this year’s was no different. Ten winning readers came to the event, with four flying in specially from Spain, Ital...

Summer outfits at the Huntsman dinner 2018

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Very nice to see so many people who had travelled to the event and yet managed to look so elegant; a great deal of the effort to achieve this is not always immediately obvious....

Style - WeddingsAugust 3rd 2018

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

July 27th 2018

When people talk about an English military cut – the kind of thing that will make you feel like a soldier, stand up straight and give you an air of authority – this is what they mean. Although other Savile Row houses, such as Dege...

Huntsman tweed jacket: Style breakdown

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I think that can certainly be nice, yes. Not something to take too far, but if subtle it can be very nice. Cleaner than a draped chest, as you say, though not as soft or flexible...

JacketsJuly 27th 2018

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

June 18th 2018

Last year we held a wonderful dinner for readers at Huntsman - celebrating different types of evening wear, with attendees the winners of a competition for evening outfits. This summer we have decided to do the same again, but celebrating all that i...

Come to (Summer) dinner at Huntsman

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Hi Simon, A great initiative yet again! For folks like my myself, who just couldn't participate in it, it would be of great interest in also seeing afterwards pics taken when the attendees are arriving at Huntsman's. Jus...

June 18th 2018

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

September 20th 2017

Thank you everyone that responded to my ‘You are the interviewer’ post a couple of weeks ago. The number of variety of questions was staggering, and I will try to answer as many as I can over the coming weeks. It may take time, but I wou...

Bespoke commissions – What I should and sho...

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I don't know the exact history, but I think it came from English tweed jackets which themselves were derived from those made for riding...

Black tie - CoatsSeptember 20th 2017

Video: Evening wear at the Huntsman dinner

January 31st 2017

As requested by readers, here is the video coverage we took on the night at our Huntsman dinner a couple of weeks ago. The sound quality isn't perfect (our fault) but you can certainly hear the short explanation I gave at the beginning of the dinner...

Video: Evening wear at the Huntsman dinner

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Well done ... lovely thoughts and great fellowship. Cheers to my confrères...

Black tie - VideoJanuary 31st 2017

Huntsman dinner: The evolution of formal wear

January 25th 2017

Meekal Hashmi Last week’s readers dinner was, perhaps surprisingly, one of the more enjoyable evenings I’ve had in a long time. I say surprisingly because, as lovely as all the readers were certainly going to be, it is always hard to pre...

Huntsman dinner: The evolution of formal wear

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Kudos to you Simon for organising and, more importantly, involving readers and admirers of the site....

Black tieJanuary 25th 2017

Come to dinner at Huntsman

December 13th 2016

So, Huntsman invited me to host a dinner in their Savile Row shop in January. And rather than invite people from the industry (as we did last time in our Gathering dinner) I thought it would be nice to have readers along. As a nice celebration...

Come to dinner at Huntsman

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Hi Arne, Unfortunately, I would advise against using it in any other way. It will pretty much always look contrived. Just have to find (or organise) other black tie events I guess. Simon...

Black tieDecember 13th 2016

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

March 21st 2016

A reader asked this a few weeks ago now, and I thought I’d illustrate my answer by showing the widths that five tailors have cut for my body and proportions. As you can see from the images below, some lapels are wider than others, but t...

How wide should my jacket lapels be?

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Thanks TJ. I think 11cm might be ok then - you'll have more room to play with than me. But do look at it yourself when you're doing the fitting and consider it as a proportion rather than an absolute number....

JacketsMarch 21st 2016

Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley

May 18th 2015

  Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman. Which is your favourite? ( Worth expanding to full screen)

Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley

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Methinks you cats are being a little harsh toward the fine folks at Huntsman. That is one gorgeously cut jacket and waistcoat. All the others feel a bit fiddly, like something Tom Cruise would wear in a Mission: Impossib...

JacketsMay 18th 2015

Huntsman hires Campbell Carey and Robert Bailey

April 3rd 2015

It was announced today that Huntsman has hired Campbell Carey as the new head cutter, to try and fill the hole left by Pat Murphy, who officially leaves this month for Davies & Son. Pat worked for many years at Davies before joining Huntsma...

Huntsman hires Campbell Carey and Robert Bailey

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Robert Bailey is on his own now. I’ve contacted him and his pricing seems competitive. Has a nice gallery on his website....

April 3rd 2015

Savile Row, parties and branding

July 21st 2014

Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different atmospheres. While they showed very different ideas ...

Savile Row, parties and branding

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Is there a particular reason? This leads me on to my question about why you choose to or choose not to use a tailor, shirtmaker, shoemaker?...

July 21st 2014

Five tips on bespoke suits

June 23rd 2014

The process of commissioning a bespoke suit is a nerve-wracking and, of course, expensive one. Permanent Style has provided extensive advice on this process over the years, particularly in posts covering suits from more than 20 tailors. But a reade...

Five tips on bespoke suits

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Good idea, yes...

SuitsJune 23rd 2014

The BTBA summer party

July 8th 2013

Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. Three Anderson & Shep...

The BTBA summer party

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No, I'm afraid not. It looks very similar to my W Bill linen though: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/07/spanish-tailors.html...

July 8th 2013

How to pick buttons for a suit

June 14th 2013

Simon,

 I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style. Question: my tailor is making a navy three-piece suit, single breasted...

How to pick buttons for a suit

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In my experience it's not normal, no, but I can also see some tailors thinking the customer might not have a particular preference. It's an easy thing to change if you ask them to...

SuitsJune 14th 2013

Huntsman rehires cutter Gordon Alsleben

June 6th 2013

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Huntsman rehires cutter Gordon Alsleben

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Noted, thanks Steven...

June 6th 2013

Interview: Roubi L’Roubi, Huntsman

February 15th 2013

Last month Roubi L’Roubi and his partner Pierre Lagrange bought Huntsman. Roubi is a couturier who cuts and makes clothes for men and women. Perhaps understandably, there were fears that he intended to turn Huntsman towards womenswear, read...

Interview: Roubi L’Roubi, Huntsman

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About four times that, but of course that's just general inflation. Many other things, especially rents in London, have risen much faster than that...

February 15th 2013

How to buy a quality suit

February 12th 2013

  Men are not interested in the clothing of celebrities. At the most, the endorsement of a film star, a magazine or a fashion brand is an endorsement, a shortcut. A man’s number one priority is not looking stupid, and popular culture i...

How to buy a quality suit

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I haven't looked at them in quite a while - but the point of guides like this is to help in a small way to assess quality from any brand...

SuitsFebruary 12th 2013

Latest piece on How to Spend It

February 11th 2013

We have decided to give greater structure to my How to Spend It column, making it a practical analysis of how to buy various items in a men’s wardrobe. The first one, on suits, is now live. Read it here.

Latest piece on How to Spend It

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Just started following your blog, you have some really interesting and informative articles on here. I'm trying to start up my own British men's lifestyle blog, needless to say there's lots of inspiration here! Thanks, C...

February 11th 2013

The first BTBA annual Dinner

February 9th 2013

Thursday was the first Festival Dinner for the new Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association. The new incarnation of the MTBA dinner, it was notable for two things: the brevity of the speeches, much to everyone’s relief, and the guest speaker Adri...

The first BTBA annual Dinner

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I agree; AA Gill is well worth interviewing. Clothes as culture is a topic too rarely mentioned. Great add, AP!...

February 9th 2013

Huntsman sold to Roubi L’Roubi

January 8th 2013

Interesting news, that Huntsman has been sold to women’s couturier Roubi L’Roubi (pictured above with Huntsman general manager Peter Smith and head cutter Pat Murphy, left and right). Roubi will be the new creative director and ha...

Huntsman sold to Roubi L’Roubi

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Based on what? I find it ridiculous how quickly everyone dismisses anyone who invests money on the Row. They said the same about Budd - someone saves the last handcutting bespoke shirtmaking premises in London and what's...

January 8th 2013

Hamilton & Hare boxer shorts

October 31st 2012

Normal.dotm 0 0 1 294 1678 Euromoney PLC 13 3 2060 12.0 0 false 18 pt 18 pt 0 0 false false false One of the pleasures of writing this blog is meeting entrepreneurs. I’m not sure I’d ever have the courage to strike out on my own and found...

Hamilton & Hare boxer shorts

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The proof (in terms of price) is how comfortable the boxer is to wear and these are by far the most comfortable boxer short i have worn. I also think the packaging with the wash bag is novel and means you are less likely...

Socks and underwearOctober 31st 2012

Three truths, universally acknowledged

March 19th 2012

There are certain tendencies among stylish men that never make it into the lists of rules. They are not as intuitive or easily explained, perhaps, as covering your waist when wearing black tie or matching your socks to your trousers. But they are alm...

Three truths, universally acknowledged

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I can see how it could be considered a little dandy, but again I think it's a very small point to be honest. I wouldn't think it would ever be inappropriate...

March 19th 2012