This is a personal article about the journey I’ve been on to counter clothes moths, and the regimen I’ve found that works. For anyone that would like a quick summary, it comprises:
- Fumigating at least once a year, using something like Pest Expert.
- Cleaning clothes regularly, and storing them clean.
- Cleaning wardrobes, shelves and drawers.
- Then using repellents, only to reduce future infestations.
One of the things I’ve managed to do while stuck at home recently is a proper Spring clean.
I’ve moved all the furniture and hoovered behind it. I’ve taken all my clothes out of the closet and cleaned the shelves.
I got into this habit a few years ago, less because I like to keep a tidy home in general, and more because I wanted to counter clothes moths.
Clothes moths like dirty, natural materials. Not necessarily filthy or muddy, but a little sweaty and dusty - covered in the normal accumulations of daily wear.
The easiest way to deal with them, therefore, is to clean clothes regularly: wash knitwear occasionally and dry clean tailoring.
And importantly, store things clean. If you put clothes away for a period of months, like summer suits, then make sure you clean them first. Moths need clothes that are undisturbed. They need to lay their eggs in the materials, have them sit there, hatch, and then the larva start eating at the wool, all without being disturbed.
Part and parcel of this is keeping the places where the clothes are stored, clean too. Hence my Spring clean.
I’ve tried many different methods for dealing with moths over the years.
I love my clothes: they have often represented significant investments, and it kills me when they get eaten. There haven’t been many, but I’d say a half dozen pieces of knitwear have been destroyed in the past.*
Those methods have included:
- Sticky strips. Quite effective but only attract the male moths, so prevent breeding but nothing else.
- Cedar wood. Often sold (perhaps by hanger manufacturers) as anti-moth, but only seems to have a limited effect, even when regularly ‘topped up’ with a spray.
- Conkers. Apparently a natural repellent, but no more effective than cedar.
- Lavender, mothballs and in fact any other scent. I once read that actually any strong smell would put off moths, and so I sprayed cedar balls with various perfumes. Same effect as above.
- Freezing. Definitely works, but means you have to put all your clothes in the freezer once or twice a year (in a plastic bag). Impractical, even if you have a chest freezer.
- Heat. Apparently just as effective as cold, but our attic is boiling in the summer, yet didn’t kill them.
- Cleaning carpets and upholstery. Definitely an issue. Moths can live in both, and what you’re trying to destroy in your clothes may actually be in other materials. But still, only a partial solution.
- Cleaning anything pre-owned or vintage. Always a good idea - or at least, checking with the shop whether the clothes have already been thoroughly cleaned. Freezing is also good here.
- Storing in plastic. Always a good idea with clothes that are in storage (though ideally they should have some breathable areas too). But impractical with any knitwear you wear regularly.
- Moth sprays. I’ve tried two different brands of sprays (Zeroin and Acana), both of which resulted in a reduction of moths, but still some issues.
The turning point for me came last year, when I started regularly fumigating my cupboards and the attic.
I decided to ask a tailor what they do - something that I probably should’ve done earlier. They said they, in turn, used something recommended by the mills - who of course have more fabric to protect than anyone.
That treatment was a fumigation product called Formula P Super Fumer, from Pest Expert.
This is a small plastic container (above), with a paper wick under the lid. You put the container on a plate or tile, light the wick, and it burns briefly before turning into smoke, which issues into the room for 10-20 seconds.
You then close the doors and windows, and leave for 2-3 hours. The tailor I spoke to said they left it over the weekend. I usually leave it from morning til evening. The smoke kills the larvae and moths, and leaves no residue or smell on the clothes.
I usually open all my wardrobe and drawers, and put the fumer a foot or so away from them. In the attic, though, I have freestanding rails with clothes, and put the fumer underneath the clothes there.
I have to say, the products themselves haven’t always been that reliable.
Some fumers haven’t lit easily, and the larger Formula P+ Fogger (centre in the picture above, white cap) is hard to use. It has the advantage of not having to be lit, but you have to press the top and then turn to secure it, which is not easy to do while smoke is escaping all around you.
Generally though, the smaller Super Fumers have been OK, and effective. I haven’t had any significant moth issues since.
The company advises the use of their repellents and sticky strips after this kind of treatment, but I haven’t found them necessary.
One thing that is perhaps important to emphasise is the difference between preventing, and killing.
Most treatments, such as moth balls and strips etc, are only useful to prevent moths. They stop them breeding, or repel them. But if you already have moths in your clothes, they’re useless.
For that you need a product that kills, like fumigation (or freezing). I operate on the assumption that every year I have probably failed to prevent at least some moths. So I do both fumigation and repelling.
I guess you could call it a belt and braces approach.
*The only silver lining is that the pieces that get destroyed are the ones you wear least - because of the point above that moths need to be undisturbed. Which is also a reason to be particularly careful with protection of occasion wear, such as black tie.
Feature on how I store clothes more generally coming next week
Photography: Jamie Ferguson or Pest Expert
Thank you for this report. Very interesting.
Till now I keep each of my suits in a (closed) garment-bag. Does this resolve the problem with moths?
Thanks.
Hi JDV,
Well it depends. If you already have moth eggs anywhere in any of those suits, then keeping them in garment bags is not going to help – it’s preventative rather than a cure, as I mention at the bottom of the article.
However, it is good as a preventative measure, if a little annoying as you can’t see the suits that easily.
I would probably carry on with your method until you see any kind of risk, such as moths flying about, or the tiniest hole in something (a small hole can often be fixed with invisible mending) and only then consider something more serious.
Hi Simon,
Can moths attack leather shoes as well? If do, what can you do given the impossibility of dry cleaning them ?
No, not really. Although it’s animal too, it’s too thick to be bothered by moths.
Hi Simon, one thing you can do, for knitwear at least, is to seal every (dry, non-sweaty) item in a plastic bag. It won’t, on its own, stop a moth which is already there doing its worst, but at least it will stop is spreading to other knitwear stored in the same place.
Thanks Triskel.
Yes absolutely – that’s great for prevention.
Do you not find that too annoying with knitwear you’re actually using and wearing sometimes, rather than keeping in storage though?
You could then give each item a time in the freezer, just to be sure you haven’t sealed eggs in with the knitwear.
Hello Simon, I’ve suffered from moths eating knitwear in the past, and I’m now really scrupulous with my storage methods, together with cleaning both clothes, wardrobes and drawers. You mentioned heat in the article, and I’m not quite clear what form that would take, but I’ve read that steam cleaners are really good at killing moths; I don’t know if you have any knowledge of them, but I was thinking of investing in one to try it. Regards, Ian
Hi Ian,
Very good point, that is a good way of applying extremes of heat to clothes, and it’s particularly good on wool tailoring, which of course benefits from steam anyway – in removing wrinkles, and a basic form of cleaning (together with brushing).
I do have a steam cleaner, which I use (see post here) but mostly just for removing wrinkles from something – when it’s been a little squashed in storage for example. It would be good to try using that more often as a moth repellent.
Simon is the Fridja considered the best hand steamer you’d buy? Have you found anything better? I have been looking for a hand steamer… thanks!
No, I think there are better ones out there. I’d say this is good value, but you can certainly get higher grade ones
From which brand? I’m looking for a regular hand steamer and travel one. Thanks
I don’t know any others to recommend, sorry. I just know when I was looking at this one it wasn’t the high-end option
I have a Tefal upright steamer, and it goes pretty well. You do have to watch out if you’re steaming king things that hand down near the floor because you get hot condensation running out, but that’s pretty manageable.
I have used cheaper ones in the past, but they tend to clog up because of the residue from boiling.
I have found Arcana products very effective, especially for knitwear when combined with specialist plastic knitwear bags. You can also get ‘hanging products’ for clothes hangers. Personally I don’t find it a nuisance to have to repack the knitwear as it really only takes a few seconds. Touch wood, so far I have suffered no attacks in 5 years using this method whereas previously I had a significant problem.
Why not brush and shake your suits once every 2 weeks? That’s what I do, summer and winter. It has become a habit. Also, it makes you remember what you have in your wardrobe 🙂
I put pieces of soap in between my stack of jumpers.
Thanks Burt – yes I do brush them down, though perhaps not every two weeks. That combined with steaming would be a good (if slightly more labour intensive) method
Good article Simon especially the emphasis on dry cleaning and washing.
Let’s not forget the moth only like materials that have food,grease,body oils,drink on them. They will not attack clean clothes. The moth itself does not eat away at the fabric contray to public belief. It’s the eggs it lays that hatch to larvae which is the actual Culprit.
It’s the keratin they like, I don’t know about them not eating clean clothes but they definitely love clean carpets-! I didn’t even know moths ate carpeting, ’till I found out the hard way – the little beasts have chomped thru’ the [less disturbed] carpet around skirting boards, which is also the uber cleanest part; it’s the keratin in the part-wool carpet 🙁
Hi Simon,
Two points please:
1) As touched on above by Michael, I had understood that moths are only interested in fabric that has some dirt, grease or food on them. For that reason I hand wash all my knitwear prior to storing it away for the summer. So far no real problem.
But if this were true, then the mills would not have to fumigate to protect the fabric would they ? For this reason I am wondering if cleanliness alone is not sufficient.
2) Freezing is interesting, I hadn’t thought of it but like the idea.
So I just put a cashmere sweater inside a plastic shopping bag, how long do I leave it in the freezer for this to be effective ?
Is there any material that I risk damaging this way and really shouldn’t freeze ?
Thanks for this timely article.
Best regards.
Hey Lewis,
1) The fumigation is largely about tailoring rather than knitwear, but even with knitwear I guess it is a nice way to be extra sure.
The example of fumigation came from a tailor, who of course is dealing with tailoring not knitwear, so can’t hand wash it.
Less obviously, by mills, we’re talking about cloth mills, who are creating huge rolls of cloth. Also hard to hand wash!
2) Yes. Ideally you put it in a zip-lock bag before you put it in. A couple of hours should be sufficient, but most people I know who do this leave it overnight. And when you take it out, just leave it for an hour or so, in case there’s any moisture in the clothes, which has frozen. That can lead to yarns cracking, if moved before defrosted. A small risk, but worth avoiding give you’re clearly trying to look after these items well.
Reply to Lewis, the reason mills sprayed fumigated they factories was while every precaution was taken to keep them clean the workers working with the fabrics could have contaminated with natural oil on there hands
They’ve eaten my [clean] carpets; the moths prefer around the edges where it’s less disturbed – & where there definitely isn’t any spilt food, grease ect – It’s anything with keratin, the protein in natural fibre; it doesn’t have to be dirty / greasy, that’s just an added bonus / garnish for them, Ew..
Simon
Very informative. I’m informed by a member of staff at Loro Piana that it’s also advisable if storing clothes ,in the hanging bags ( cotton), that you tape over the gap at the top of the bag where the coat hanger pokes through as moths can get in.
Regards Anon.
Thanks, nice suggestion.
I guess that makes it harder to get the hanger out, but you can just keep the hanger in and take the clothes off around it
Very sensible advice Simon. Hasn’t heard if fumers, might give it a try next time I see adult moths on my sticky strips.
Regarding sprays, you’ve said you had some reduction but still some issues ? What sort of issues? Are you spraying the garment directly ? I’ve been doing so with the arcana spray. I always wondered if it was less damaging to the cloth than dry cleaning.
Thanks.
Still issues as in still moths, and the occasional hole.
When I have used sprays I do spray the garment directly, yes, but not close up. Which I think is what the product directed.
Hi. Very useful article. To build on the point from Darryl. In the UK, Lakeland sell packs of sealable (zip) plastic bags. For summer storage I usually put in three (less if chunky) clean sweaters in a bag. I leave about one inch unzipped, press down on the bag then close the zip, which whilst not exactly a vacuum seal , it does make longer term storage easier. I do the same in winter with cotton polo shirts etc.
Thanks also Simon for pricking my conscience. My wardrobe is past due a clear out and clean – today’s job!
Stay safe.
Are the products you mention toxic to humans at all? Does it cause any smoke damage to paint?
It’s Just the process sounds quite harsh.
Also , if you hang clothes in a breathable or non breathable suit cover is there any risk of damage ?
No, they’re non-toxic to humans or animals. And no damage to paint either – it’s not a heavy smoke at all, you wouldn’t notice it after a minute or two, were it not for the smell.
On the second question, do you mean does the smoke damage the bag or suit if it’s in one when you use the product?
Sorry, I mean leaving a suit in a suit bag .
Does just storing a suit in a suit bag in your wardrobe cause any damage ?
No, unless it’s in there for a very long time, in which case it make start to get a little stale/smell etc. Nicer to have some part of the bag breathable
Many thanks for this article, Simon, particularly for discussing the difference between preventing and killing moths/larvae. Regarding knitwear, washing is clearly an important preventative step. But will washing knitwear also kill moths/larvae that might already be on the garment? I apologize if you already addressed this. Thanks again.
No worries Patrick.
And yes, washing should kill anything on the garment
Would it really kill the larvae if washing at 40C or less ?
It doesn’t kill them through heat, but the agitation dislodges them and washes them off, usually
Thanks for your reply above, Simon. Another quick question. Given that knitwear can typically go several wearings between washing, is it worth storing worn sweaters away from those that haven’t yet been worn? Looking forward to the post on storage next week. All the best.
Hey Patrick,
No I wouldn’t say that would make a significant difference. I would store seasonal knits separately – those in for longer term storage, like chunky cashmeres in the summer, or cottons in the winter, but that’s all.
Hi Simon, I don’t know what other people use for storage of their clothes, but after trying out a few products I’ve settled on two in particular; the first, for suits and coats, is the Hanger Project garment bag. It’s not cheap, but well made from high quality materials, so it’s a once in a lifetime investment. The hole for the hanger is also small and shouldn’t allow moths in (something referred to earlier in the comments). I use one bag per item – maybe a bit over the top, but I think it’s worth it. The second product is a zip up knitwear storage bag from Total Wardrobe; they do two types, and the pricier one, made from cotton, is much better. I keep all my ties in individual zip lock plastic bags, which works well.
Thanks Ian, nice recommendations
Hi Simon, belated reply. Yes, the bags are a nuisance, but having lost some lovely items to moth I am determined not to let that happen again.
Cheers Triskel
The rule of thumb is simple
If you store anything regardless if it’s in plastic or cotton breathable storage bags the moth will attack if the garments are not cleaned. Also reading some comments Dry cleaning does not damage fabric in anyway shape or form. It’s more of the operation or establishment than anything else.
My Butler uses smoke bombs in the attic.
He keeps the place clean and places cedar wood (that he sprays thrice a year) in all closets and draws.
We’ve never had a problem!
I think I’ve read somewhere or heard someone say that juniper wood is good for repelling moths. So I put a piece or two in drawers and closets, though I have no idea if it is any good. Do you now? Either way; I think it smells good.
I think the number of different woods and scents that are recommended probably supports the point that most smells would put them off – other than the sweat they’re drawn too
Try peppermint oil. It repels moths, and has the advantage of repelling crawling insects too.
All my clothes come from goodwill (charity shops) so I have to deal continually with possible new moths with each purchase. My information is that freezing requires about a week. I haven’t found it either practical or effective.
I have constructed a heat treatment box the size of a small closet with some halogen floodlights for heat, a blower for air circulation, and a thermostat. 30 minutes at 125F (52C) is supposed to be sufficient but I find 3 hours at 145F (63C) necessary. It takes quite a while for the clothes to warm up, so I measure in a breast pocket.
Dusting with diatomaceous earth seems to prevent moths, eggs, and larvae from hiding in carpets and cracks.
I store clothes in giant ziplock plastic vacuum bags, but not under vacuum. My experience is that moths can get out of just about anything that isn’t airtight and can eat holes in thin plastic.
Great article – certainly one to remember and apply all the advice, including the comments.
Thank you!
Simon,
Do you know a way we can get these products here in the US?
No, sorry, I didn’t even realise they didn’t ship to the US.
Would storing knitwear in plastic containers in my unheated garage through the Canadian winter be a good idea?
I’m wondering if long term freezing would damage it?
I’m not sure about the long-term implications of freezing I’m afraid Peter – though others might know
I used Meister boxing glove deodorisers – they have a very strong cedar smell which lasts a long time, and the design means that you can hang them over rails. I use a few of them in my storage cupboard and have never had any problems with moths. Available from amazon.
Good advice Simon, thanks.
Aside from those already in tapestry and carpets, how do moths enter your place?
Are they so quick they fly in when you exit or enter? Do you have screens over your windows?
Through an open window Peter. No, no one in the UK has screens over their windows
Hello Simon, have you tried hatching wasps?
Dear Simon
Off topic, I know, but could you tell me more about the blue gilet you are wearing in one of your photos? Which outfits do you tend to wear it with?
Thanks
It’s the tweed Mallory vest from Nigel Cabourn. To be honest, I’ve sold it since I took these photos (originally for the Plaza Uomo cover story on me a few years ago). I loved the material, but the lack of bespoke-level fit annoyed me after a while.
For more thoughts on wearing that kind of thing though, see the tweed one Richard James made me.
One recommendation you make is to store clothes clean. My question is: what is “clean”? Say that you’ve worn a suit twice over the winter, and haven’t knowingly had any accidents while wearing it. Can you still consider it “clean” or should you send it to the dry cleaners before storing? Perhaps one should, just to be careful. But on the other hand dry cleaning suits too often is bad for the fabric. So where do you strike the balance?
Hey Josh,
Good point. Generally, dry cleaning a suit once a year is pretty good, so if you only do it that time, before putting it away for storage, then there won’t be much long term damage in the long term from the cleaning.
I’d generally do that to be on the safe side. But if that seems like overkill, perhaps at least just give it a brush down and some steam before putting it away (though wait a day or so after steaming, to make sure no moisture is kept in the suit before you store it).
Lastly, if you have somewhere (like a tailor) that can just do a sponge and press on it, without the need for dry cleaning, that’s even better.
I’ve got two questions. Do moths only eat wool, or do they devour pretty much anything that isn’t polyester? Besides, what precisely do you mean by “undisturbed”? If moths lay their eggs in a piece of clothing, but then I start wearing it every other day, will this damage the eggs? It seems like having a small compact wardrobe would solve the problem instantly, because there would be nothing laying undisturbed for more than a week.
Hi Karol,
They like anything with keratin in it, which basically means any animal fibre. So they like wool, cashmere, silk, fur etc. But not linen or cotton, or synthetics. So a wardrobe with more cotton and linen in it would also be safer.
And yes, if you’re wearing something that often then it probably won’t get moths, and a smaller wardrobe does help. Though most people have something that is not worn often, such as a wool overcoat during the summer.
In your experience, are there any tell-tale signs that a moth has laid eggs in clothing? Other than seeing a moth itself or, obviously, the damage? I have noticed little clumps of debris that I believe signal that a moth has been tucked up there for a while.
Moths are bad, but I’ve had some things chewed my mice when I lived in an old house. They can do very serious damage before you’ve realised that they’re there and dealt with them.
You generally can’t see the individual eggs, but if there are a lot of them them you do get little traces of white slime, almost like mucus, where a lot of eggs are all together.
Does fumigation leave a residual smell? How long before the smell goes away?
For me with this product, no there was no residual smell at all. After a couple of hours of airing the room (one window and a door open) there was no noticeable odour
Hi there,
I made good experiences with moth paper. Easy to change and seems to keep moths away.
Cheers
J
Thanks J. As mentioned above, they can be an effective repellent, but I think you might find that if you ever did get moths in clothes, they wouldn’t help deal with the problem – that was the point I was trying to make about prevention and cure.
I hope that makes sense
Personally, I’m terrified of taking my bespoke garments to a dry cleaner. Do you think a good brushing and maybe some sponging is sufficient to clean my winter items before I pack them in plastic for the summer?
I suppose I could use some moth balls as well but I’m quite put off by the carcinogenic nature of most products I’ve seen and have also found that they impart significant odor to the clothing as well.
A good brushing and some steaming will help a lot.
The other thing to remember with dry cleaning, is that the biggest damage is done not by the cleaning itself, but by the pressing afterwards – it crushes it flat, removing any roll or 3D shape, and is bad for the cloth.
So if you can find a tailor, or someone who has tailoring experience, that could press your suits, then you just need to ask the dry cleaner not to press it – tell them to just leave it to hang, and someone else will press it.
On moth balls, as I mention above, I’ve found most smells have a similar effect, so just use a little cologne. Or lots of the other natural smells people use, like cedar, lavendar and so on. And there are repellents that don’t smell at all.
Then also add a couple of sticky strips for good measure.
Very helpful Simon. Will definitely fumigate. In hot and humid climates, we have to also deal with mold. I have fans for each one of my closets. Cheers.
Wow, I didn’t think about that Ned. That must be tough
Hi! Very helpful report – thank you! Just wondered what constitutes a moth infestation? I had 6 last year and so far have found 3 this year, over 3 months. Two of them were stuck to a moth trap and I think they fit the description of the gold clothes moth. Could they be accidentals? When is it time to panic?
That doesn’t sound like much, I wouldn’t worry. Yet
The ominous ‘yet’! I know what you mean … thank you – will keep a close eye!
It’s not the moth that will eat the clothes. Each moth can lay 100 eggs which take between 6-10 days to hatch. It’s the actual Larvae the eat the cloth normally where food/oil/grease/drink is on the fabric. Only making sure clothes are seasonally cleaned are you guaranteed no damage to your investment pieces
Ah yes, I realise it’s not the moths that do the damage but they are responsible for laying the eggs and are also the product of the eggs … so I just wondered what sort of numbers might signify a problem. But thank you – will certainly carry on cleaning, freezing, brushing, laying traps etc. Little pests!
Very helpful information – Until now, I have been using Orphea strips and spray with reasonable success. It’s only a repellent but it seems to help. The adhesive pheromone moth traps are a good way of monitoring activity, rather than eliminating population – they cost little and are a useful warning beacon.
I’ve also invested in some cotton gusseted garment bags with some particularly close-fitting hanger hook holes (I suspect gaping ones would defeat the object). so far so good.
Great story on moths and trying to keep your closet clean! Attempted to order pest expert but found they could not ship to the United States. Would you have any suggestions? Would love to hear your comments on this.
No I don’t, sorry Joseph. I’ve just used and tried this one. Interested if you or anyone else tries a different supplier though
Any recommendations for a comparable product for those of us in the U.S.?
I haven’t tried anything, no sorry.
If you wear suits in regular rotation, does that prevent moths from taking hold of garments?
Never had a moth problem, but I now do not wear suits due to the coronavirus pandemic.
Is taking them out and wearing once every month of two sufficient?
Thank you.
It would certainly help, but I’d say if you only wore them that often, you should still be wary of moths.
Still, brushing them down, using steam, and storing them clean – as discussed in this article and the comments – will make a big difference too.
Any recommendations for a smoke bomb product available in the US?
See comments above J
Vacuum garment bags. They are basically huge ziplock bags with an air valve. A home vacuum cleaner provided enough air evacuation to kill the larvae and months from lack of oxygen alone, in less than a day. Also, the crush of atmosphere against the bag is intense enough to crush the pests. I tested these both. A good bag will hold vacuum indefinitely. I’m not a fan of chemicals and odors. The drawbacks are clear: creases, wrinkles, smashing shoulder pads and lapels flat. The suits get sweaters stuffed inside to reduce this.
Thanks Noah.
Yes, I think the drawbacks would be too great for me on that, with tailoring. It would be in a pretty terrible state when it came out.
Perhaps for knitwear though.
Hi Simon,
You mention moth eggs need clothes that are undisturbed to propagate and hatch. Presumably one could just periodically shake out garments to destroy delicate eggs?
Yes, that is worth doing, though I’ve never found it completely gets rid of the problem – merely reduces it
This is a comment solely in regards to moth prevention. I have been using ACANA moth hanger devices that are advertised as moth killing devices and that they also work on moth eggs. Do you have any experience?
No, sorry Daniel
Hi Simon,
Great article. I am about to embark on Operation Moth Annihilation. My package of pest expert smoke bombs (plus box of sprays, hangers, and sachets!) has just been delivered.
What is your experience of smoke bombs vs smoke detectors? My detectors are hardwired and I have a sneaky suspicion its not as simple as flicking off the fuse to disarm them and switching off the electricity completely would be inconvenient as I will have to tackle rooms on separate days due to things such as pets, NHS shift ‘patterns’, etc. It would be disappointing to set off a smoke bomb only to have to fan the chemical ‘goodness’ out of the window to quiet a wailing alarm.
I want to ensure my campaign is as thorough as possible from the outset! ?
Thanks
I didn’t have any problems, because you close the doors to keep all the smoke in. And then when you’re done, most of the smoke has dissipated anyway.
Hi Simon –
I’ve commented on your wonderful blog for years, and I’ve read (pretty faithfully) your work. I’ve also seen your readers get more soulful and philosophical (the current beard piece is Exhibit A – those comments are metacognative delight in action) through osmosis.
Problem (sort of) – I have a walk in closet that has a medium sized window. The shade is always down to minimize light (and the shade is UV coated), but there is a small gap on either side of the shade allowing a thin beam of light to caress the shoulders and left arms of my suit jackets, shirts, and the fabric edges of trousers.
Is this inevitably going to cause discoloration and unevenness?
Would you do anything to mitigate this, or is it probably not a source of worry?
Thank you, in advance, for weighing in.
Hi Wes,
Yes I know, that reaction was really interesting, wasn’t it? I do like it when the primary concerns of dressing well and interest in doing so broaden out into deeper questions of self.
To be honest on your light issue, I’m not sure. It’s not something I know much about, but I’d be very interested if you found out more. I’d assume direct sunlight will always have some discolouring effect, on natural fabrics at least. But I don’t know anything about the role of UV, or how long that sunlight has to be on the clothes to make any difference.
Thanks for trying, Simon, and I will let you know what I discover.
Just one question about bag care:
I bought a used leather weekend bag that’s in very good shape, but it has a bit of an internal smell. Any experience getting odors out of bags? Should I pull out the lining and give it a gentle soap scrub? Other ideas? The lining, of course, is not leather, but a standard material.
No I don’t I’m afraid. A scrub of the lining I’m sure won’t hurt, and perhaps a light clean of the leather before putting some leather cream in it. Though the latter is more risky, and depends a lot on the leather. A cheaper one with any kind of coating won’t take cream at all
Simon. Have you considered or assessed the new steam closet options that are appearing now (e.g. LG styler and Samsung air dryer). Fairly expensive items, but not if they extend the life and ‘ or reduce dry cleaning on expensive bespoke items, safely and effectively.
No I haven’t Malcolm, sorry. I’m not sure I’d have room for one even if they worked to be honest
Thanks. They do seem a bit over the top, but when you have space and very valuable, delicate clothing you want to look after, maybe worth considering. I’ll stick to a steam generation iron and a couple of brushes . :). But it will be interesting to see if they remain a very niche item or become more standard over time.
Hello!
I’m in the middle of a big anti-moth cleaning session having seen a few flying about recently. Historically I’ve noticed damage in both clothing and carpets. My question is – all my hanging clothes are on an open rail in a well lit room so I’m wondering if the hanging type of repellent cassettes would be any use if not in an enclosed space? In theory clothes hanging well spread out in daylight shouldn’t be bothered but I’m afraid that not only have holes appeared on hung items I’ve actually seen a moth leaving the crime scene. If the repellent cassettes aren’t effective outside of a small enclosed space do you have any other suggestions for open rails? Many thanks for your time and skill Simon 🙂
You’re right, they will have less of an effect. But the recommendations in the post will still be effective: fumigate to kill what’s already there, and then spray surfaces around where the clothes are hanging
Hi Simon,
Thanks for a very informative blog. Would I need to vacate the room I am using a Formula P Super Fumer? I don’t have any doors on any of my rooms apart from the bathroom. Why do you recommend Formula P in particular?
You would have to, yes. And for a few hours.
I just recommend it because I’ve used it and it works. I have’t tried any other fumigation products
I am sorry to say that they do eat cotton. They absolutely do. My favourite 100% cotton trousers from M&S have holes all through them. It is a myth that they don’t eat cotton. They do. They have. Even after freezing they continue to. It’s dreadful.
Really? I wonder if that could be another bug. It seems pretty unanimous that the clothes moth only eats animal products like wool or cashmere.
Yes unfortunately they do eat cotton and I have the pictures and first hand experience to confirm it. Have seen a few other people on other forums also confirm that they do eat cotton. I rented an apartment last year that was ridden with carpet moths. I thought they didn’t get into my clothes but when moving house recently I found lots and lots of eggs under/attached to my wicker laundry basket. They had been eating all the clothes I threw into the laundry basket – lots of cotton under garments. Basically if they can’t find their desirable fabric they will go onto more undesirable fabrics like cotton and linen. These cotton trousers I wore every single day too had them on constantly and they still ate through it. They are nasty little buggers and are horrifyingly capable of doing even what we think they won’t.
Thanks Erin
Hi, I have a question. When you use the smaller super fumer, is there risk of it setting off your smoke alarm?
Only if the alarm is in the same room or just outside. If you close the door to the room, as you should do for a few hours, then it’s fine.
When you open the door later, the smoke will have dissipated.
Hi Simon – apologies for commenting on this old article but I have got moth issues at the moment and I remembered that you had already written about it. I have got a question regarding the use of the pesticide: have you only used it in your attic? I store my clothes in my bedroom and I am a bit concerned about breathing toxic fumes.
No, I’ve used it in my bedroom as well Diego, twice, and it’s fine. Just follow the instructions about time you leave it in there, and opening windows afterwards.
And don’t worry about old posts – I’ll always answer questions on any one
Useful article, Simon, thanks! Would this treatment work on other clothes- and cardboard-eating insects, such as silver fish? Or are there other products?
I don’t know about other insects in that regard, sorry Stephan
Hi Simon- I’m sorry if I’m asking you to repeat yourself, but I understand you to say you have your tailoring cleaned each season. Does that mean actually getting your suits, sport coats, and trousers dry cleaned by a professional cleaner? I have always heard that dry cleaning damages or breaks down quality tailoring. Maybe once a year as you rotate between seasons is ok?
Thank you for your kind attention.
Best,
Bill
Hey Bill,
Yes, cleaning once a year is fine. Some would say never do it, but I think once a year is OK if they are suits and jackets you wear a fair bit. Otherwise a steam can be enough.
Reply to William,
Dry cleaning does not damage or break down materials or fabrics. When something gets damaged in dry cleaning it’s the person/operator that has caused it not the actual process itself. Moths are attracted to fabrics that have oil/food/drink/etc on them and lay the eggs in those areas the larvae then hatch and eat away. Moth deterrents and putting away clean clothes will only future proof your investment. The misconception that dry cleaning is bad for your clothes needs to be dispelled
Hey Simon – super helpful! Quick question: one of my suits got pretty badly damaged by moths 🙁
Can you recommend a good suit repair person for these types of issues in London? Cheers, and happy new year
Hi – yes, you want an invisible mender. Expensive, but great work.
There’s a page for these resources here.
Hello Mr. Crompton- A friend of mine turned me onto your blog, and the two of us have been denied delivery of the Pest Expert kit to the United States- I’ve tried ordering through the company’s website and through Amazon without success.
Can you offer a solution for delivery, or a comparable/alternative product that would be available to us in the US?
Thank you,
Bryan
Hi Bryan, great to have you.
I’m afraid I don’t know of a US equivalent no, sorry, nor any other delivery options. If you find one do let us know on this thread though, as people have asked in the past.
Hi Simon, thank you for the reply. Will do!
Hi Simon,
What would you recommend when using the fumigation is not an option. As my wardrobe is in my bedroom and there’s a smoke alarm directly over the wardrobe I fear the smoke will trigger this.
I have tried to used mothballs but the smell which is emitting out from the wardrobe is really strong and I’m worried if there’s any ill effects from sleeping and breathing the fumes.
The joys of living in a small Sydney apartment.
Thanks
Yang
I haven’t looked in depth at other options Yang, but my impression is that most scents work pretty much as well as moth balls, so you could switch to something you prefer. Also, brush and clean your clothes more – dirty clothes are wha they prize
Should you reuse a smoke bomb after a certain interval to then kill emergent moths, eggs that have hatched? If so is there an ideal period after the initial discharge of a smoke bomb? Say two weeks or a month later.
No, the smoke bomb should kill the eggs as well. The key is to use the spray afterwards as well, to stop any news one arriving. And repeat once a year at the least
Im actually getting turned off wool/cashmere… last year i bought uniqlo rollneck, wore it 2-3 times a month. By the end of season it developed a hole and i found couple moths. Dry cleaned every wool piece i had. Didnt see a single moth during rest of year. In spring bought 2 more pieces, but didnt get around wearing any. Today pulled one out… again couple holes. Pulled out my cashmere pwc rolneck, a bunch of eggs, couple larvae, and a bunch of almost holes.. (stored 3 weeks in freezer, and washed before putting for storage). Now im afraid for my bridge coat and one tweed jacket (stored in suit bags).. kind of put me off looking at your donegal and cardigan for the future…
I think my biggest problem is,
1. I have less than 5 pieces, so preventative fumigating seemed like a waste.
2. Im expecting to see moths at the start so by the time i realised i have a problem its too late.
3. Good wool stuff is like my occasion wear so worn 4-5 times a year, so dry cleaning before it gets dirty seems like a waste.
Well… at least i like corduroy,cotton and linen!
Just to clarify one thing Martins, which I talk about in the piece – fumigation kills the eggs and moths that already exist, it is not preventative. It’s the spray here and other things (mothballs etc) that are preventative
Actually on the webpage they say “fumigates room to kill adult moths”… no mention of eggs…
Also interestingly, the only not clean wool thing i had over summer was wax walker liner, but moths ate unworn and washed knitwear.
How do you deal with your occasion wear? Its not like you have to dry clean it after every event? Brush it, fumigate, use repellents and hope for the best?
About knitwear i think ill send my pieces to dry clean, asess damage on pwc one, try to darn holes on another one, get ziplock bags and store them there after fumigating room. But what to do about jackets and bridge coat? I do store them in suit covers but its not like they are waterproof…
Yes on occasion wear.
On jackets and bridge coat, just clean once a year. And the bags don’t have to be waterproof, just have holes smaller than a moth
thank you! now all I can say is if you’ll decide to bring back charcoal Donegal, please make it 2024 or 2025! 🙂 until I figure out on cheaper stuff if I’m able to deal with moths!
Hi Simon,
Can you recommend any makers of bags, not necessarily vacuum bags, for storing knitwear on indeed for storing suits,jackets etc, that are reliable. N.Peal apparently do good storage bags for their cashmere knitwear. What about the breathable suit carriers apparently stocked by Richard Anderson,if I’m correct here?
Any suggestions please?
Hey Lindsay,
I don’t have any specific recommendations, I just use plastic storage boxes for my knits, and regular suit bags for my tailoring. They both work fine, I’ve never had any issues – the important thing is just to make sure they’re fairly clean before you store them.
Have you had any issues? You might not need anything that specialist
Thankfully, not yet Simon.
I have the little Pest Expert paper sheets in the drawers, a bit flimsy…and a bit silly imo , and the blue boxes impregnated with the moth killer hanging in the wardrobe….probably expired now!!
If you don’t have a problem (no holes, no moths) then I wouldn’t worry about it too much, and especially not specialist storage containers. But if you do develop an issue, I’d recommend the spray/bombs here, and just storing in normal bags/boxes
Just a brief correction.
I mentioned Richard Anderson for a suit carrier. It’s the green Luxury Suit Carrier stocked at Henry Poole.
Sorry,
Lindsay
Aha, OK thanks Lindsay
Hi simon i notice alot of guys in menswear smoke. Why is that so?
It depends if you mean cigars or cigarettes.
With cigarettes, most of the people I know who smoke have always smoked. Although they might be more likely to smoke in a photograph because it often looks good – smoke is atmospheric, it gives you something natural to do with your hands. There’s an ethical question there as to whether it glamourises smoking, but that’s a big topic.
On cigars, I think it’s mostly something guys get into because they want to explore every ‘higher’ pleasure like food, wine, cocktails etc. However, there is a certainly a chunk of reason there that’s also to do with how it looks (and also why that often then appears in photos).
Personally, I’ve never smoked and haven’t really taken to cigars when I’ve tried them over the years.
Thanks simon actually it was something myself and my wife noticed these few years when visiting menswear stores. My wife remarked how almost all stores have lots of alcohol in them and many cigarette buds outside them
Interesting. Yes, alcohol goes in the same bracket, though of course more universal. I think happens particularly in Asian and American stores, is my impression, which feel they have to give more of a luxury ‘feel’ or menswear feel. (Cliched menswear, sports cars and jazz and cocktails and blah blah blah)
This post gave me some great ideas in figuring out a plan to deal with clothes moths. I decided to take a slightly different approach, and since I found Simon’s post so valuable, I wanted to share why.
First, I’m not convinced that the Formula P Fumer is safe. Its active ingredient is a pesticide called permethrin. Permethrin sticks around and continues to repel bugs for a while, which is partly why it’s so effective. But the research around it suggests that it might be toxic, even to humans at low doses (check the “Safety Considerations” section in the Consumer Reports link below for a brief summary). It’s not a slam dunk, and some sources think its relatively safe. I’d rather err on the side of caution given that permethrin remains on clothing for so long and I’d be exposed to it all day everyday.
There’s a similar pesticide named pyrethrin. While it doesn’t stick around like permethrin, it still kills moths on contact, and it’s far safer for humans (and pets). It’s available in aerosol spray form. I know Simon has had limited success with sprays, and this product isn’t labeled for use on clothing. But the reviews suggest that others have used it like a fumigator against clothes moths with good results. I plan on wearing a respirator when spraying, and essentially swapping it out with the Formula P fumer in Simon’s post. It’s available outside the UK too: https://www.amazon.com/CB-80-Contact-Aerosol-17-Can/dp/B00474SOVC/
Sources:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/clothes-moths
“Pyrethrin insecticides provide quick knockdown of clothes moths, and most can be sprayed directly on fabrics if needed (in situations where fabrics cannot be laundered or dry cleaned). Pyrethrin insecticides do not leave persistent toxic residues, which makes them more suitable for clothes moth control in many cases than products containing permethrin.”
https://www.consumerreports.org/health/insect-repellent/is-permethrin-treated-clothing-safe-and-effective-a7181708753/
Thank you Tim, that’s really helpful.
I haven’t had any issues with the Fumer after use, but you definitely don’t want to inhale it while it’s in the room. And of course that’s only one experience and fairly short term