Travelling to India on holiday this Easter gave me a reason to get the hot-weather clothing out early. It was unseasonably hot even for there, with the temperature pushing 40 degrees.
We took the opportunity to visit the 100 Hands factory in Amritsar, and that’s where I’m pictured above. (Full report coming on Monday.)
Cream trousers from Eidos in a slubby cotton/linen felt smart enough there for what was a working appointment – but also casual enough to wear on other occasions during the trip, such as dinner in the evening.
Here they’re worn with a nice Aspesi fully-fashioned polo shirt. Trunk has them at the moment, and they’ll feature in our regular Summer Top 10 piece in a week or two.
Nice slimmish fit, and the refined feel of a knit rather than normal cut-and-sew polo.
Over the top is my Drake’s linen overshirt, which did such good service last year.
As ever, I like the fact it has just the two, breast pockets and none on the waist.
Perhaps my favourite new purchase, however, was the canvas shoes above, by Japanese brand Doek (also stocked at Trunk).
I’ve wanted a cream canvas shoe like this for a while – something that will get battered like Chuck Taylors, and therefore look casual and much-loved. But ideally better made and unbranded.
These are perfect, with nice vintage touches like the overlapping layers of rubber at the toe.
The only downside of the vintage style is in the insole, which is a single layer of cork rather than the normal cotton over foam.
This provides less support and feels uncomfortable at first, but after a few wears I no longer noticed – and did a lot of walking in them. I also found that they were more comfortable than other canvas shoes without socks.
They got dirty quickly, as you’d expect, but were easy to wash with a sponge and soap and I’m told can be (delicately) machine washed.
The other polo shirt I took, naturally, was one of our short-sleeved Friday Polos. (New batch coming in a month or so.)
This navy one has worn in nicely, with some subtle fading around the collar and placket.
The shorts I’m wearing are also a collaboration, the last prototype (hopefully) of a model that first made appearance last year in Naples, and should be ready in a month or so.
So many shorts – to my eyes – are one extreme or the other. Very narrow or very wide; very short or very long.
These are a balance: straight, and finishing just above the knee. Sartorial touches are left to the small pleats and turn-ups.
There will be this washed green with belt loops, and a smarter navy with side adjustors.
The sunglasses don’t change: Starsky model from E&B Meyrowitz.
The other footwear I loved was one I bought out there: traditional Punjabi juttis, pictured above.
I posted a picture of these on Instagram and joked that they were hand-sewn and hand-patinated.
They are of course – just very roughly. A single thick, coarse thread binds the sole to the two overlapping pieces of the upper.
This is not very neat, refined, or strong, and of course is only one line of thread where bespoke shoes have two. But otherwise it’s similar. From the leather, it’s also clear that the dye has been painted on (cf. Saint Crispin’s).
There is no real comparison to make between them and bespoke dress shoes, but I make the point merely that any process can be done roughly – it’s execution that matters.
Juttis are made without a left or right, and are very stiff to start with; but over the holiday they became increasingly comfortable. They’re now a slightly eccentric slipper for home.
It’s a beautiful, warm day in London today and feels like summer is just around the corner.
I’m looking forward to getting my cotton knitwear, Sagans, and linen trousers out of the wardrobe to join these pieces that travelled.
Here’s hoping it’s sunny where you are.
The shorts look fantastic! Can/when do you provide us other info?
In a month probably…
I am from India, Mumbai city, to be precise. I have been reading PS since the past two years, and have learned a lot from it, which automatically makes me massive admirer. However, I always use to wonder, was there a possibility that you would come to a place like India where the climate’s exact opposite to, say, London ? and you did. Loved reading this blog. Hope people like me, get to read some more in-depth articles about layering up in situations like India. Thanks.
Interested to hear more about the Eidos trousers – and indeed jackets (to the extent you’ve commissioned any from Eidos). Any prospect of a specific review of them in future?
I haven’t commissioned jackets, no, and not planning a review. To be honest I don’t really like the direction Eidos is going under the new creative director
Simon, seeing that picture of you in the 100 Hands factory brings something to my mind.
I’m always having an inner debate on to what extent the country of production should be reflected in the products price.
On the one hand I try to fade-out where a product is made and keep telling myself that it’s the products quality , and it’s quality only (e.g cut/design, cloth, details) that defines its price. Every country can produce quality products, and I think we should never forget this, as we sometimes are prone to stereotype thinking.
On the other hand I think that it’s not to debate that making a e.g shirt in India is less expensive than having it made in the UK, and in my opinion this should also be reflected in the products price
As a products cost in the world of fine menswear is mainly driven by labour; how do you personaly balance these two sides? When do you consider a product being produced abroad too expensive?
To be honest, Felix, I don’t find that margins differ that hugely between the craft brands I cover – it’s something I’ve mentioned before on PS.
This is particularly the case if things are sold wholesale as well as retail. You just can’t charge a vastly different margin to the industry norm. As a result, the product price largely reflects the cost of the labour and production.
Seeing how much time goes into the 100 Hands shirts, and the fineness of the work, they would likely be triple the price if they were made in the UK. And twice if they were made in Naples.
(Bear in mind, also, that the world’s best embroidery is done in India – it’s very hard to generalise quality for a whole country across a whole range of crafts)
Your shorts are looking fine, but which sizes do they come in?
I do have the same problem – I am a runner/cyclist. if I buy according to my waist then they are often very narrow to me.
I am hoping for size 28″!!?
Nice looks Simon. It’s a crying shame the current Drake’s linen over shirts have hip pockets 🙁
I Like the look of your shorts to come too. very timely.
If you can make it into a Drakes store, you can have a MTO shirt that looks the same + minor adjustments for size. In fact, you can pick from a whole host of linens. Cheers.
TT
You can order them from Sweden without hip pockets. http://www.linnegatan2.com/drake-s-navy-linen-shacket-overshirt-3?showvariant=true&catid=79&blockid=10
Interested to see your shorts project – I too am struggling finding some decent shorts but cannot justify having them made bespoke. Unfortunately based on the apparant fit for yourself its likely they’ll be too long and too narrow for me but may give them a try if they go up to my size.
Jumping the gun a little but will it be just the two colours?
I can’t even confirm that I’m afraid, but good to hear the issues you have
Looking forward to hearing more about 100 hands. (And it’s great to see more stories on craft which aren’t exclusively English or Italian.)
The ‘sartorial’ touches to shorts feel out of place to me (a bit too boy scout?) but then I don’t wear shorts too often. (I’ve seen Neapolitan “suits” of jacket-and-shorts and to my eye it’s not a pleasing combination.) Happy to be convinced otherwise if you feel strongly.
Interesting. I like them but I know what you mean. Certainly not to be worn with a matching jacket!
See the shoes are on sale at the moment at one of their UK stockists (Open As Usual) and not bad at £55
Nice Canvas shoes however I would find it difficult to justify the cost of these over an almost identical Jack Purcell. Granted the JP has a blue “smile” and small branding at the back but minimal compared to a Chuck Taylor. Interestingly converse did a version last year with thinner laces and cork insole. In this climate what t-shirts do you generally wear. I know your a fan of the Riviera but would these be a tad too thick for the climate?
I know what you mean Adam – I do also find these a better fit and make, but don’t have room to go into all of that here I guess.
I wear white rivieras I’d anything, yes.
It snowed today where I am. Summer feels rather far away.
Hi Simon
Great post. Looks like a warm outfit for 40 degree temps though.
Slightly random question.
Have you deliberately chosen to lace each shoe differently?
Ha! Good spot, no that wasn’t deliberate at all. I only realised when I got home they’d been like that the whole time
I think those trainers are so lacking in style that they ruin the whole outfit.
A bit like a modern equivalent of sandals and socks.
Why choose those when there are so many better alternatives?
Thanks for your view Toby, but it’s a bit too general to be useful – either in terms of what you don’t like here or do like in others.
Some further details or thoughts would be good if you have any.
Versions of a Todd style driving shoe as a starter. In leather or suede.
A proper deck shoe. Navy would match pretty much anything you wear above.
Dark brown leather thongs.
Trainers are for playing sport.
Thanks Toby.
I have Tod’s gommino driving shoes but obviously they can’t be worn outside and walking long distances without drastically shortening their life.
Deck shoes would certainly be nice. Sandals I’d only wear for around a holiday house etc – they’re too informal and hairy-toe-exposing for me.
I’ve a few pairs of Tod’s City Gomminos. They have a full yet light sole on them so they are a bit more robust and much better generally walking around. Especially useful in the UK. Love them! N
Nice sneakers/plimsoles…have you considered Supergra (Italian est.1911)? Re. knitwear (happy to re-post if you reference the article) I was in Brighton the other day and found a great craft shop ‘Lana’ that specialises in made to measure knitwear (machine made not hand knitted) staffed by the delightful owner Claudia – she makes MTM knitwear (and makes in the shop). Style is more rustic/everyday than high fashion but she has curated a fine range of yarns including Australian merino, Scots virgin wool (including unwashed wool with natural lanolin and in the original ‘sheep’ colours) and cashmere. The range of colours is wide and contains colours and shades not seen in ordinary outlets(deep burgundys, sea blues, pinks etc.). Commissioned garments would be made to size (vs. generic) and would therefore be unique. Claudia can also repair woolen garments by knitting new sections and joining them in. To be clear I have no connection to the shop, nor do I know the owner but I was struck by her enthusiasm, entrepreneurial spirit and craft skill. Prices start around a quite reasonable £150, worthy of a commission Simon? Lana, 74 St George’s Rd, Brighton, lanaboutique.net
Thanks. Never been much of a fan of Superga, either for the general aesthetics and last shapes, or the branding, but that’s just me.
The knitwear sounds very interesting, thank you. Presumably she doesn’t make the knitwear itself in the shop if it’s knitted by machine on a loom? Do you mean she does repairs and some hand knitting in the shop?
Hello Simon,
I have recently purchased a pair of suede loafers by John Lobb, they are absolutely beautiful and with the sun finally here, I am itching to wear them out. However, I am hesitant to put them on as I am unsure if the suede should be given protection before being worn for the first time. Can you please advise on the best course of action.
Suede protection is largely against rain, so maybe don’t wear them when it’s forecast to rain at all, until you can get a spray and apply some protection
They will have had protector applied before leaving the factory.
Usually, yes, but I’d still recommend applying something of your own
Beautiful shorts!
I must say, they look remarkably similar to the Cucinelli shorts on PAUW that I emailed you about earlier this year, complete with the pleats and cuffs.. That one was out of stock in my size, so it’s fantastic to know you have something similar in the works!
Will the shorts also be available in cream or offwhites?
Great post. How do the Doeks compare to Common Projects for quality? (CP seem to get ever more expensive and I’m looking for a good alternative). Also – do you have a view on blue sneakers (vs white/cream)?
These aren’t really on the same level for quality as Common Projects. Try CQP perhaps if you want a well-made alternative.
I definitely prefer the cream, but the blue has a nice vintage feel to it, and it’s an indigo blue that ages and fades subtly
How about Sweyd? Any ideas on its quality?
No, sorry
Re. Lana, no it’s done in the shop on small knitting machines but the output is of good quality. All machines used (some quite old and unusual) have been rescued and refurbished. To be clear it’s not high fashion output but the offering is appealing and, these days, highly unusual (MTM, wide range of yarns, skill involved etc.).
Thanks
How do you personally wash the Aspesi Polo? I have the same one, and the laundry label says hand-wash, but that seems a little overkill for a cotton polo. Do you think the same “delicate” 30-degree wash that works for my Incotex chinos would be suitable on this?
Also worth noting the drastic difference in the shift in the shoulder seam between 46 and 48 for the Summer Top 10 write-up by the way – it moves about 4cm, whereas I think around 1cm would be usual. Could catch a few people off guard a little if they don’t notice straight away…
Good point, thanks
Yes, a delicate cold wash or 30 degrees was fine on mine
Which size polo are you wearing Simon if you don’t mind me asking? 48 or 50?
48
Hi Simon,
Why didn’t you go for this pair instead- https://www.trunkclothiers.com/doek-oxford-sneaker-ecru
I preferred the derby style because it was more similar to a Common Projects-type sneaker. I also have odd associations with that high oxford style of it being a child’s shoe style
1st comment. Stumbled on PS.
Enjoy the freedom of speech and courtesy here.
Shorts seem inch-perfect. Seems like you’ve finally solved that vexed width to length balance. Perhaps, waist too.
Dressing for Spring can be a nightmare in UK/London. It could be raining, suddenly warm up or temperatures drop like a stone in the evening. I’d appreciate a feature for tackling this conundrum, if you haven’t already done so.
Nice idea, and pleased you appreciate the tone. Do comment again!
S
Nice pictures!
How would you compare the Aspesi polo to the Friday Polo with short sleeves? I am thinking about ordering one or two new polo shirts and have been thinking about waiting for the Friday Polos. But Aspesi looks like a nice option as well.
Another question. I am also looking for some new shorts. My main problem with most brands are that they are too tight in the tighs. How is the fit of the ones that you are planning to release?
The shorts are cut straight and shouldn’t be tight in the thighs.
The polos are rather different, in cut and make. The Aspesi is like knitwear, and has a small collar that couldn’t be worn under a jacket. Ours are longer, to tuck in, with a higher structured collar to wear under tailoring, and made like a normal polo (with extra handwork)
Thanks Simon for the quick answer!
Should I take that the Aspesi is better to wear with shorts and maybe a overshirt and yours better with a sport coat and chinos?
Yes, I think that’s a good distinction
Hi Simon, do you use a shoe tree with your doek sneakers?
No, there’s no structure in their to support really, or leather to stop creasing
Hey Simon,
What size is your Drakes Linen Overshirt? And what is your collar size in inches if you don’t mind me asking?
Regards,
Joe
Medium, and 15
Hi Simon, would you say these trousers from Eidos are smarter than your P. Johnson ones?
I’d say they’re about the same. Both are slightly more casual versions of cream-linen trousers
Hi simon I’m thinking of getting my first ever pair of doeks Oxford (navy on top with white sole) to be worn with shorts. I haven worn sneakers like these in a while and I’m wondering how comfortable are they in your experience? My past experiences with cotton canvas sneakers like superga are largely negative. They don’t feel very comfortable at all especially when worn without socks. Also, does the navy necessecitate wearing something blue up top too?
I have found mine comfortable, though they don’t feel so at first – the cork insole takes a little time to mould.
They have none of the internal support and cushioning of other trainers, but are as comfortable or more so than any welted shoe.
No, the navy doesn’t really need any navy anywhere else. I find the cream colour much more versatile, but navy is good with shorts.
Hi simon, can I ask how comfortable are your doeks without socks? I’m thinking of buying a pair to be worn as such. Also, can I ask your advice on sizing? Did you take your usual size?
I had to size up because they’re very slim. Just about looks OK though.
They are comfortable, but I’d always wear invisible socks.
Hi Simon, your overshirt looks fantastic!
I have ordered a dark brown cotton overshirt for myself because it goes very well with my eye colour which is brown.
I want to ask a couple of questions regarding an overshirt and would highly appreciate your response.
1)I specifically have only two colours of trousers available with me. Two of them navy chinos and three being dark or charcoal grey wool. Do you think dark brown cotton overshirt go with them?
2) If i wear my cotton overshirt with a cotton shirt and cotton chinos then would there be a danger of the fabric being too matchy and should there be a change in fabric somewhere so as make it look more appropriate? (I am afraid it might be a very silly question but i just wanted to clear my doubt)
Thanks
1) They should be OK, yes. The only concern would that there might not be enough contrast between them. See when you wear them, whether you think they are clearly different from each other.
2) It should be OK. But have a look at it yourself when you’re wearing it, and consider whether you think they look too dissimilar or not.
In the end, it’s up to you to decide what you think looks good or not. All this guidance does is give you the things to consider as you assess something
Does it look odd if someone is layering his outfit not because because it is chilly outside but for the sole purpose of adding a touch of elegance to his outfit?
As you have been to India so you already know that it doesn’t get chilly in summer and spring months as it does in London and so i needed an advice that whether even a casual overshirt come across as odd.
It’s very hard to comment on social things like that. Although I have been a few times, I’m not a local and I’m sure my surroundings would have been different.
Simon – Would you be willing to compare your Doek shoe size to your Alden LHS (Van last) loafer size? Apologies that this is such a specific request. I’m interested in getting a pair of Doeks, but I can’t try them on in person. Thanks!
I can tell you which I take in both Paul, and that the Doek are fairly slim, while the LHS is fairly wide, but I’m not sure much written information beyond that would be helpful. The Doek is a size 28, which is a little large but works fine – the largeness required because of the slimness. And the LHS is a 9.5 D (US)
I’m quite torn between the Doek court shoes in navy versus the same model in ecru? Would you comment on their respective versatility? Or is this one of those cases in which you can’t really go wrong with either model?
Both are very good, but I’d say the ecru is a little more versatile. Also a little smarter, being cleaner and simpler, but again it’s a small difference
Hi Simon- Noted that you have added Oxford in your collection as well. As Oxford looks a bit less slim than Court, would you advice taking the same size for Oxford and Court? I have Court in 27cm which is slightly tight and short in length. I am planning to get a pair of Oxford but wondering whether I should go up to 28cm this time. Thanks so much.
Hey Derek,
I took the same size. I found the proportions worked out similarly, the difference really being just that you can’t alter the width of the shoe further down, as you can with a derby style. I did also size up on the derby originally anyway, as they were slim.
Simon,
What’s your thoughts on Doek sizing I like thier Oxford shoe but was unsure about sizing. I’m a 10-10.5 UK ideally but it depends on maker really
I found I was between sizes and had to size up to make sure there was enough width – they are quite slim
Thanks. Any thoughts on shoe trees with sneakers like a Doek?
You don’t really need them. There’s no leather upper there that’s going to dry out or curl up
Hello Simon. Just came across these from Moonstar shoes Japan https://www.hightidestoredtla.shop/products/copy-of-810s-caf-white-moonstar. I quite like the simple design with no visible branding and logos. Something that I could slip into and will look nice with Jeans. Could this be an canvas sneaker alternative or it’s tad quite unusual. Let me know your thoughts?
That’s more of a fashion shoe, I think Amit. Not something I would wear or would work into my kind of wardrobe
Hello Simon. These have just arrived in The Armoury’s https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=5740783125957013&id=149077521794296&set=a.1548929745142393&source=54&refid=13&__tn__=%2B%3D. They’re available in a natural, undyed colourway, a washed-out shade of olive and a classic beige. I know your thoughts on natural and classic beige, but I’m particularly liking the washed-out shade of olive? Let me know your thoughts? Will the washed-out olive serve as versatile options as well?
The washed-out olive would certainly be versatile, though I’d personally prefer the natural or beige myself
Hello Simon. I settled on Beige myself. It’s muted, simple, most versatile and will be easier to style than the Olive’s (That’s personal to me). What I wanted to ask is in your experience I’m a size US 8.5D in my Red Wing Iron Rangers and Moc Toe Boots. I’ve told The Armoury’s for a size US 9 in these Moonstar sneakers as only 1 last pair is available in US 9 in Beige. I hope I’ll be the right size in them with a little wiggle room for my toes? I also intend to wear them sockless? Thank you Simon.
I’m afraid I can’t help really Amit as I don’t own Moonstars nor the Red Wings
Hello Simon. The Armoury’s have introduced these sneakers from Moonstar https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02uwtgDqhLazcMqu1Nrnjwt9RVpsbrcefCVt5hsnZgx1yaUYgExAcxKKE3HLvBZLXol&id=149077521794296&m_entstream_source=timeline&__tn__=%2As%2As-R. They’re available in natural undyed colourway, a washed-out shade of olive and a classic beige. I’m quite liking the washed-out olive? It looks a versatile colour? Please let me know your thoughts on these sneakers and these colour options that they’re available in?
Hey Amit – I notice you often leave comments twice. Do you not realise that the first one is there, it’s just that it’s awaiting moderation?
Hello Simon. It’s never intended that way. Sometimes when I re-read my comments to ensure it’s posted, I don’t see it, but apologies there. Also sometimes I do see it’s awaiting moderation and sometimes i don’t see that also, hence I re-type it. Going forward will ensure this never happens ?
No worries. Just wanted to make sure you weren’t wasting effort. Sometimes (particularly overnight or at the weekend) a comment might not post for a little while
I got my first Doek shoes a year ago; I went for the ones pictured here. Probably my favourite design of all. They really look and feel great, and I shall definitely get another pair sooner or later. I just hoped I wouldn’t have to… After a year of extensive, yet careful use, there is now a tear on my right shoe, a hole big enough to fit a finger, right where the canvas meets the rubber, so I think it cannot be mended. I was wondering if this was to be expected… considering their price. Does it sound normal to you, after only a year of use? I really don’t have any experience with canvas shoes. Greetings from Athens!
Article coming on that tomorrow! Good timing…