Last week was the official launch of the Permanent Style book, with an event in Milan hosted by Vitale Barberis Canonico and A Caraceni.
I was interviewed by the fashion editor of La Repubblica, Simone Marchetti, about my history and views on contemporary luxury, in front of a small audience. There will be some video coverage at a later date.
Grey shirts have been an interest of mine in recent weeks – they have a similar effect to denim or chambray, in adding an unexpected, less formal element to an otherwise conservative outfit. I have two: a pale-grey poplin from Luca Avitabile, and a mid-grey brushed cotton from Simone Abbarchi.
The evening in Milan turned out to be an all-grey affair: that pale-grey shirt, a grey herringbone suit from John Kent, a grey/silver woven-silk tie and a brown/grey handkerchief (both Tom Ford). Alligator oxfords from Gaziano & Girling on the feet.
Such monochromatic outfits are usually more formal than those with more colour. Hence a white shirt and dark tie for smart evening events. However, removing the contrast from the outfit (grey shirt and hank instead of white) makes the overall effect softer and more subtle.
With such combinations, the important thing is to retain a little contrast through texture. So a woven silk tie helps: the silk is shinier than the matte of shirt and suit, and the weave adds texture that catches and reflects the light irregularly. A silk hank, equally, creates contrast of texture to the suit, rather than the contrast of colour that would come from white linen.
China launch in Beijing this Friday, at Brio. Looking forward to seeing everyone there.
Hi Simon
I have long been a fan of the grey shirt. I prefer mine in a very pale grey as a more modern feeling alternative to Ivory (or other off white shirts,) and in a blue tinted grey as a more casual version of a blue shirt.
I couldn’t pull off an all grey outfit though. That takes an eye for style which is rather beyond me!
Another great post l, I really do enjoy the how to wear it series. Glad the book is selling so well.
Rob
Now that is a very good look indeed! I haven’t worn a grey shirt since I was at school, but you’ve got me thinking…………
Not a fan of the all-monochrome look. Though, i like the ‘grey shirt’. Very under-utilised shirt colour in classic menswear.
Count me as another fan of gray shirts… The trick though is adding either textural or contrast based interest. I find that poplin gray shirts are a little too flat. A nice birds-eye (light gray) or fil-à-fil (medium gray) does the trick admirable well.
-S
That can be nice Sandeep, yes. Often good to up the texture on the tie in that case – eg club stripe
Just got home to find my Permanent Style 2015 sitting waiting for me. First impressions – superb. Love the design and presentation. Absolutely first rate. Congratulations Simon. Very well done indeed. Looks the dog’s proverbials to me 🙂 Doubt there’re any left but if there are gents, I’d grab one whilst you can.
Cheers Rob, lovely to hear
I’ve considered getting a grey shirt, but I’ve had a hard time breaking away from the classic blue and cream. I’ve ventured into lilac with two shirts, but I’m thinking about getting a grey end-on-end. Like semi-solid grey suits, I’d imagine a semi-solid grey shirt will help it not look too dull.
Hi Simon,
Just an observation that you are actually wearing oxfords in the photo (the 6th one), not monk straps?
Good spot! I completely misremembered. Those are in fact my alligator Oxfords from Gaziano & Girling. My mind must be going.
Post now changed.
Simon
For cycling do you recommend De Marchi or Rapha?
Danke
Tom
Rapha, always. I’ve worked with them for a while and I wouldn’t recommend anyone else. Expensive, but the best.
Hi Simon,
Thanks for sharing! I’ve read the depiction of your outfit on both occasions as a wink at me! I’m used to seeing monochromatic outfits that – to be honnest – I really don’t like. But yours is conspicously more sophisticate ! I think this way of using various shades of .. a single colour for an outfit is definely British! Every time I see someone, who has successfully done that, is either British or has lived in the UK for quite some time. As first sight, it seems to be a simple matter. But it’s not easy at all!
John
Hi Simon
I would like to know what do you think of these loafers.
Are they versatile enough to be worn casually with chinos and a polo but also with an odd jacket ( hopsack with patch pockets),a tie and fresco or linen trousers?
http://www.loake.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/522×380/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/e/t/eton.jpg
Yes, a suede brown loafer like that would work well
Congratulations on the book, it’s been great to watch the blog and your career develop over the years. What I can’t square though is why you’d opt to publish something at a standard so much lower than those you hold clothes, shoes, and accessories to here. Sure it’s for widespread distribution, so you aren’t going to be hand setting the type into vellum, gilt, and calfskin, but at least stitch the pages into a real binding and boards so it will last more than a few years before the spine cracks and the whole thing comes apart. From the pictures it looks like a straight, so-called ‘perfect binding,’ which any bibliophile or publisher would tell you is anything but. I’d suspect most of the people who’d consider springing for a coffee table sized book on bespoke would appreciate the higher production value. Books aside, carry on, yours is still one of the best reads on the web.
Thanks Ivan. We would have loved to stitch the book and have a hard cover but costs and small print runs made it impossible I’m afraid. That said, we have used a nice paper stock and paid a fair bit for that, and the look and feel has gone down very well with everyone. We also folded back the covers which gives them a nice heft.
Dear Simon,
Your John Kent suit arm appears to be incredibly wrinkled and it distracts enormously from the suit form.
Is it a photographic illusion or is there something amiss with the cut?
Regards,
David
Just a combination of photography, lightweight cloth and travel
On the topic of grey shirts, I have seen you use one of your greys in a few settings, but wonder about the versatility. What colours of trouser would greys go with? And would it not be a wise investment for those with predominantly grey trousers in fresco and flannel as is the sartorial staple? Thanks for the time!
They go with a lot of things, but not grey – so you’re right, if you have a lot of grey trousers they’re not going to be that useful. Super with navy jacket and tan trousers though
Simon,
Was this the suit that was both cut and fitted by John Kent (as opposed to the cream linen suit which was fitted by Terry Haste)?
It seems to be to fit better in the neck area than the linen suit.
S
Yes it was, although the pattern was the same so I wouldn’t read too much into the differences
Grey shirts are useful when you want to wear Jeans and a black jacket but don’t want to look like a Tom Ford clone by wearing the white shirt you always used to wear with the jeans and jacket until Tom Ford popularised it. Likewise the black silk rollnecks you always wore – if you put a jacket over them you don’t look like someone trying to pass themselves off as a Silicon Valley tech “founder”. HTH. Grey shirts look very good with dark navy suits, less so with grey suits.
I still quite like them with grey suits Philip, but it’s certainly more of a fashion look