How design works: Classic menswear and fashion co...
The main reason I wanted to bring designer Luke Walker onto our series of talks was his experience working at both fashion brands (Lanvin, McQueen) and classic menswear (Dunhill, Drake’s). I love what he does at his own brand, LEJ, and we tal...
How design works: Classic menswear and fashion co...
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What a breath of fresh air Luke is ... so many gems, anecdotes and wisdom (Oh ... and a dusting of luxuriant chest hair). Loved it all....
Reader profile: Cedric
Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
Five bags might seem like a lot – certainly compared to shirts or ties, as featured previously in this series . But given you’ll need some kind of suitcase, plus a day bag, and probably a backpack for cycling, walking or s...
If you only had five bags: A capsule collection
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Great points. I'm also a big fan of the design I think it's rather elegant but also understated and casual. And of course there's no question of quality when we're dealing with Frank Clegg. The office really is a mish-ma...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
The PS Shorts go on sale again today, in the same colours as the past two years: khaki, olive and navy. Thank you to all readers for their patience waiting for the restock. There is only one major change, which is that the shorts are 1.5 inches sho...
PS (shorter) shorts are back
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Hey, I do wear them and I'm still a 43, though you're right, the sizing is a bit unpredictable. I think QC like that is one of the things that people often don't appreciate from getting from a tiny operation rather than ...
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
This is a fully updated version of our post from January on the bespoke tailors in and around New York. The contributions of readers were extremely helpful, particularly those that had used tailors personally, as this is an area with a lot of misinf...
New York bespoke tailors – Updated
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Thanks Simon, very much appreciated!...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
Charcoal is a surprisingly useful colour in an odd jacket. Great with muted tones of tan, green or brown, it's also dark enough to go with lighter grey flannels. And charcoal is my favourite colour to wear with cream trousers. It tends to tone down ...
Charcoal donegal-tweed jacket – from Steven...
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I don't have any experience of it Lindsay. They recently hired a new cutter who is good, but that's all I know...
Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fa...
I’ve always had a particular fondness for Dunhill, ever since I visited the leather workshops in Walthamstow years ago for my book ‘Best of British’. They’ve also made several of my most lovely things, such as my vintage box,...
Dunhill leather and knitwear: Taste, style and fa...
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Yes George, some do offer bespoke or MTM bombers. Sartoria Melina for example in Naples - that's pretty much all they do https://www.permanentstyle.com/brand/melina...
Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt
When I first had this cotton jacket made, I noted that it was a tricky one to work into an outfit. The vintage cotton cloth ( more details here) is rather rough and casual, yet the cut and style are quite smart. Having it as a double-breasted jacket...
Double-breasted cotton jacket and striped shirt
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Good question. I think probably because that colour doesn't really look like part of a suit. Also helps that it's a DB, and the more texture the cotton has, the easier it is too...
My desk
Many readers said they liked the personal, behind-the-scenes approach of Plaza Uomo's cover story on me last year. Here, then, is another angle. My desk, where I write most of these posts, and therefore probably the most important Permanent Style-r...
My desk
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Hey Bolaji, Yes, I've written comprehensively about moths here. This desk also opens up into a flat surface - you couldn't work on that angle...
Trunk shows coming up, around the world…
Since we introduced the Trunk Show Calendar last year, it has become an increasingly popular part of the website. For those that missed the announcement (and the link in the site navigation, above), the Calendar was a way to bring together all the ...
Trunk shows coming up, around the world…
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Hello, I am Aj and would like to knowknow more about it. The show I mean...
The Dunhill archive
As 'heritage' has become more popular in recent years, brands have increasingly emphasised their longevity, their history and their traditions. This has several issues. Most obviously, the brands that push this hardest often have the least to shout...
The Dunhill archive
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Over the years I've bought a number of pieces from Dunhill and enjoyed them. That said, my experience of them since their acquisition by the Richemont Group has been at best, variable. There seems to be a lack of consist...
Best of British: Buy your personalised copy
My third book this year, published by Prestel and in bookstores worldwide, is now available. It is called Best of British: The Stories Behind Britain’s Iconic Brands. The book covers 14 British manufacturers that are over 100 years’ ol...
Best of British: Buy your personalised copy
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Their top end is still a good level - which is what we feature in the book. But generally the focus of this book is on history and stories of England's oldest manufacturers, so quality was less of a concern (eg Barbour.....
The Finest Menswear in the World
Finally, wonderfully, the book on luxury craft I began writing three years ago is coming out: The Finest Menswear in the World. – You can buy your own personalised copy of The Finest Menswear in the World in the Permanent Style shop &...
The Finest Menswear in the World
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Thank you, Simon. Yes, I think makers, especially with own brand, like Zilli and Seraphin schould be in prioritet position. That's why I would add Hettabretz to your selection. I read what Hattabretz small maker with own...
Ten bags over ten years
One of the advantages of a long-running blog, perhaps, is the ability to look back and see how purchases have performed over time. It’s particularly useful when we emphasise – as we do, day after day – the value of inv...
Ten bags over ten years
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No worries Eoghan, it's normally fine, I just happen not to have that bag anymore...
Dunhill bespoke
Martin Nicholls, the cutter at Dunhill in London, has had a fascinating career. Trained at Huntsman under Hammick and Hall, he worked at Gieves and Norton’s, headed up the bespoke department at Harrod’s, and launched Hackett&...
Dunhill bespoke
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Hello, Can anyone give me an update on Dunhill bespoke and MTM in 2020 ? Is bespoke still onsite at Bourdon House ? Who is the cutter ? Also, is their MTM of good quality ? Is it outsourced, if so to where ? I’m a fan ...
Postcard from Paris
I was in Paris last week for a couple of articles, as well as visiting the usual suspects. Here in a green raincoat from Hermes with brown leather collar detail. Because green is the third colour. Traveller trilby from Lock & Co; Alfred Dun...
Postcard from Paris
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It's beautiful, but as with most designer brands, only available for that season I'm afraid......
Animation – in Anderson & Sheppard, Du...
I’ve received a few odd communications over the years, but this is the first time anyone has drawn a cartoon of me. As a big fan of graphic novels myself, particularly Chris Ware, this was a lovely thing to receive, although I must say the ...
Animation – in Anderson & Sheppard, Du...
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Wonderful and very recognisable rendition! You should incorporate that into the site....
The growth of men’s bags – FT article
The growth of men’s bags as a sector is quite incredible. Menswear as a whole has outstripped women’s clothing for a few years now, as we’ve accepted the idea of buying better clothes and wearing them better. But while it grew 15% w...
The growth of men’s bags – FT article
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I think you clearly need a bag Ronnie, yes. If you want it quite casual, go for a tote bag. A leather one for work/town, and you can always get a nice canvas one if you want something more casual. Perhaps a backpack for ...
Buying a modern man bag
Dear Simon, I have been wearing a messenger bag for some time for commuting as it’s a very handy way of containing all the bulk and occasional papers that I have to cart around with me. However, I have worried for some time about the potent...
Buying a modern man bag
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A bit late to the party, sorry you felt our bag doesn't look like the highest quality. If I may make a distinction between "luxury" and "high quality" - luxury being features that will go beyond high quality, where high ...
Drake’s buys Rayner & Sturges
I recently had my first opportunity to chat to Michael Hill about his takeover last month, with Mark Cho, of the Rayner & Sturges shirt factory. Rayner & Sturges is the last independent factory in the UK making quality shirts. Other...
Drake’s buys Rayner & Sturges
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van dang contact me charles caine shirts on face book...
How to buy a leather bag on a budget
Hi Simon, I’ve been following Permanent Style for a while now, as well as investing significantly more of my time trying to learn more about menswear. As my style has evolved and I find myself wearing a blazer or sportcoat more often, I&...
How to buy a leather bag on a budget
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Thank you. That is a nice design from Dunhill. I don't know whether it's all hand sewn though it may well be. Two things I think worth noting: - This looks like a heavier leather, like bridle, which is what English maker...
How to buy a quality leather bag
Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, will look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an individual patina from t...
How to buy a quality leather bag
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I need help here! I’m looking for a very specific type of tan leather military wet pack. It is also known as a roll pack and has a strap and buckle. There are various compartments inside. Usually coloured green. The be...
And another
One more photo from Pitti Uomo this week. Trying to use a shawl (Loro Piana) and hat (Lock) to keep off the rain. Above from Tommy Ton, below from JCR
And another
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The hat is quite interesting. I'm a bit of a fur felt hat fan. Especially with substantial overcoats. Bit of a shame they're not more accepted as daily wear when the weather is appropriate for it....
Pitti Uomo 2012
It’s Pitti time again, and there’s the usual mix of the well-dressed and the overdressed. I’ll leave it up to you to decide which camp I fall into. One thing’s for certain, there are more photographers than eve...
Pitti Uomo 2012
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2nd pic. Cargo pants with an odd jacket? Um... wow....
Brent Black panama hats
I completely understand that the amount of money spent on handmade accessories can seem extravagant. Several people made comments along those lines regarding my Alfred Dunhill glasses case a few months ago. But if you have pursued a policy of investi...
Brent Black panama hats
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No problem - it's great to add to old posts. Brent is hugely superior in terms of quality and probably value. But I do find I don't wear his hats much just because the shape doesn't suit my head that well. It's the downs...
