Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
The first time I saw a tailor use an iron to shape cloth, I was genuinely surprised. You wouldn’t think material would be able to be manipulated that much, using steam and pressure to turn a straight piece of canvas into the shape of a collar...
Pressing: An unsung art of bespoke tailoring (video)
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Nice to hear Tamaki. We'll be doing more like it soon. I also like the deliberate misspelling - 'impressing'!...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
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I don't think I'd worry on the coolness point, as it is so lightweight, but yes I think you'll find the trousers too flimsy to get long-term wear out of. Sorry, it otherwise sounded like a great plan!...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
**This article is an extract from our book ‘Bespoke Style’, which sold out in less than a month last year. A new print is ready and will be on sale soon. If you would like early access, or are interested in stocking the book, plea...
Dege & Skinner tobacco-linen suit: Style bre...
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I would go for something darker, not as strong a colour today. It was a little too orange. I haven't looked for specifics in a while though...
Italian aristocracy: Black and white
Last summer, a reader responded to a post by reminding me that in Slim Aarons's photography of Italian aristocracy, most wore cream or tobacco-linen suits, a white shirt, white hank and black knitted-silk tie. The post had been on 'Dressing pale c...
Italian aristocracy: Black and white
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That’s great - thanks Simon. I’ve just received some linen shirts from Simone Abbarchi. The cream is Canclini Topolino linen fabric. It’s a lovely shade of cream, not too yellowy but distinctly not an ivory either....
Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit
I wore this linen suit from Dege & Skinner for the first time while in Florence. The weather was hot, and airless, and for the past two days I had been wearing unstructured Neapolitan tailoring. The contrast was immediately noticeable. As s...
Dege & Skinner finished tobacco-linen suit
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I wouldn't worry about that clash, no. The cream might be a little bright, but on a sunny day with a white shirt I'd imagine it could look great...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
Following our tour around Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner a few weeks ago, I decided to commission a suit from cutter Nicholas De’ath - a tobacco number in W Bill’s 11-ounce linen. This is the second fitting. Regular readers wil...
Dege & Skinner tobacco linen suit
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Ah, I see. No, don't worry about that Michael...
The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner
Dege & Skinner have never been ones to blow their own trumpet. But in the past couple of years there have been small signs of the 150-year-old, family-run tailor stepping out. In 2012 they took over the workrooms under the shop on Savile Row...
The style and tradition of Dege & Skinner
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Yeah, I understand that but with most of the houses that are absorbed by other houses, they don't take on anything other than the patterns and the client book....
BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie
One of the nicest aspects of the Bespoke Tailors Benevolent Association dinner every year is the evening wear. Although most cutters and tailors aren’t actually into clothes and style, they are all wearing something bespoke – s...
BTBA dinner: The best-dressed men in black tie
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Only somebody who doesn’t understand would think of wearing a smoking jacket at a black tie evening....
Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley
Bespoke driving jackets designed by Dege & Skinner, Henry Poole, Gieves & Hawkes and Huntsman. Which is your favourite? ( Worth expanding to full screen)
Savile Row’s driving jackets for Bentley
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Methinks you cats are being a little harsh toward the fine folks at Huntsman. That is one gorgeously cut jacket and waistcoat. All the others feel a bit fiddly, like something Tom Cruise would wear in a Mission: Impossib...
Dege & Skinner celebrate 150 years
This year Savile Row tailors Dege & Skinner are 150 years old – pretty impressive for any business, but particularly one that is still family owned. In fact, the house has done rather well in the last couple because of that herita...
Dege & Skinner celebrate 150 years
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Nick, glad our bespoke tailoring has stood the test of time for your father...
Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival
This past weekend saw the Coronation Festival in the gardens of Buckingham Palace, at which holders of royal warrants exhibited. The royal warrant is not exactly the mark of quality that some might assume, given that it includes Austin Reed and Daks...
Royal warrant holders at the Coronation Festival
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The latter is more accurate. But K&H are also not really saying they can do anything at all. All adaptation has its limits....
How high should my trousers be? – Reader qu...
Hi Simon: Just wanted to say a big thank you for the wonderful work that you have been doing, it’s really pointed the rest us in the right direction. One thing that I have been rather confused on is how pants should fit for someone with my phys...
How high should my trousers be? – Reader qu...
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Yes, that is definitely a problem with high-rise trousers - see post here on why I tend to wear more of a mid-rise as a result. A mid-rise has less of this problem because the waist isn't so small....
The BTBA summer party
Friday was the Bespoke Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA, new version of MTBA) summer ball. As per usual there was an eclectic range of outfits, from sober business dress to top hats, cream linen to sequins. Three Anderson & Shep...
The BTBA summer party
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No, I'm afraid not. It looks very similar to my W Bill linen though: http://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/07/spanish-tailors.html...
The Dege & Skinner Phitwell jacket, and more ...
Regular readers of The Rake will be pleased to know that I am once again contributing regularly to the website, TheRakeOnline.com. Recent articles include a look at Dege & Skinner’s trademarked Phitwell jacket, which incorporates l...
The Dege & Skinner Phitwell jacket, and more ...
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congratulations Simon on your new appointment and thanks for support of Dege & Skinner, one of the last bespoke tailors on the Row to remain in British ownership, and family-owned...
Lunch with Michael Skinner, Dege & Skinner
Last Friday Michael Skinner, the wonderfully warm master cutter and chairman of Dege & Skinner, was kind enough to invite me and a handful of others to lunch at the Merchant Taylors. The occasion was the launch of Michael’s book, The...
Lunch with Michael Skinner, Dege & Skinner
Last Friday Michael Skinner, the wonderfully warm master cutter and chairman of Dege & Skinner, was kind enough to invite me and a handful of others to lunch at the Merchant Taylors. The occasion was the launch of Michae...
