The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
Solaro has always been one of those materials I’ve found intriguing but never took the leap on, simply because I was too unsure how much I’d like such an unusual, and in some ways showy material. For those that don’t know, Solaro ...
The appeal of Solaro: Suit from Cristina Dalcuore
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Personally I did what you're thinking, Kristian--I ordered a reddish/brown half lining for my new solaro suit. But I live in Italy and am a bit more at ease with (relatively) showy tailored clothing. I would not however ...
Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer rest...
This is the new colour of the PS Linen Overshirt - a pale olive green. I love it, but it is a touch unusual so I thought it was worth shooting with different colours, just to illustrate how I think it can work particularly nicely. The overshirt is ...
Introducing: The olive overshirt (and Summer rest...
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I don't think so, no, and the rest of the clothes will be just as important - eg a tan belt and tan shoes, or a white T-shirt rather than grey, will help create good contrast...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
This is a new installment in the series ‘ The rules and how to break them ’, which has been a little neglected in recent years. It’s a great little guide, exposing myths of menswear and calmly explaining the rationale be...
The rules and how to break them #10: Suits withou...
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I cannot believe its acceptable for the mayor of london to wear a suit without a tie, I work on a building site and have to wear hard hat ,boots and a hi vi's,xthats the dress code, if I worked in a office I would Don a ...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
This knitted polo we’re launching on the PS Shop today is in some ways just a short-sleeved version of the Dartmoor. It has the same finest-in-the-world make (hence the name), the same reinforced collar, and the same top-end merino. It is also...
Introducing: The Finest Polo
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Hey Hans, Nice to hear from you. I suspect the reason it's doing that is that those pieces use a fairly open weave in order to make them cooler - the air can move through it. Something in wool that was not an open-weave ...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
One point that was particularly popular in a recent video chat – ‘ How can I dress up without a suit?’ – was the idea of an unstructured or shirt jacket, to wear at home. Something that you can throw on for...
The best cloth for unstructured jackets
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Hi Biswajit, I think you may find that a suit in a light construction, such as from a Neapolitan tailor, in a lightweight material, may make as much difference as regards the weather. The biggest difference an unstructur...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
As soft Neapolitan jackets have become popular in the past 10 years or so, the phrase 'spalla camicia' has been more and more frequently used. However if it means anything consistently, this Italian phrase for 'shirt sleeve' refers to a pretty narro...
Video: What ‘spalla camicia’ really m...
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They aren't necessarily different. Camicia just says something about the way the shoulder material and the sleeve connect. Mappina is about how much material is gathered at the top - the shirring. You can have one, both,...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
Having run through the major types of tailoring style in Naples, we’re now onto the smaller variants. For those that might have them, those previous Neapolitan posts were Solito (the modern Neapolitan cut), Ciardi (the traditional cut) an...
Dalcuore brown suit: Style Breakdown
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Ah nice...
How I filter fashions
Fashions sweep through the world of classic menswear on a fairly regular basis – no matter how permanent we think our tastes and styles are. I find it pays to consider each carefully, and then over time decide which of three camps it falls int...
How I filter fashions
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Not sure you could quite, but you're right they're very expensive. A lot of it reflects the work that's gone into them, which is why you don't see anything quite like them anywhere else....
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
If there’s one thing I have a (very relative) lack of, it’s summer sports jackets - casual pieces for warm days, using the linen/wool/silk mixes the Italians are so good at. So it was nice to have this jacket from Dalcuore made up in tim...
Summer checked jacket – at the Dalcuore Rak...
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I'd say cream to pale beige. Not a bright or strong colour. I don't know on that bunch I'm afraid...
The fashions of classic menswear
Although we sartorial enthusiasts aspire to style that lasts decades, not seasons, I think it's important to recognise the fashions we still follow. While we shun band T-shirts or 'ugly' trainers, we are still strongly influenced by our peers and th...
The fashions of classic menswear
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Nothing is really timeless - they go up and down over the decades just as lapel widths increase and decrease. But I like a slightly higher gorge, as it flatters the shoulders rather than the chest. And the absolute key i...
Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors
Gigi doesn’t normally talk much. The master cutter at Neapolitan tailors Dalcuore, he normally stands back, silently, as Damiano and Cristina do the talking. This is both his character and a result of speaking little English. It was nice to ha...
Dalcuore: Gigi on expansion, craft and young tailors
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Now that Gigi has died from COVID, do you know what is going to happen with Dalcuore? I see they are still doing trunk shows, but is the quality, fit, and cut going to be the same?...
How to dress for very hot weather
As mentioned on my ‘What I pack’ post, I’ve been travelling a lot in high heat recently. There was Pitti in Florence, where the temperature topped out at 37 degrees. Naples in July was very similar. And Puglia at the end ...
How to dress for very hot weather
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They do make a good one, nice shout...
What I pack when I travel
As I return from two summer trips – one for a week in Florence, the other a week in Naples – it seems a fitting time to run through what I pack for trips such as these. I know readers have asked about it in the past. Of course, an...
What I pack when I travel
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I highly recommend the unlined Duke from EG. Supremely comfortable and stylish, if you like a more classic / robust shape than B&L and something more substantial than the Polperro. I have a lovely biscuit coloured pa...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
Naples has the biggest concentration of high-end handmade menswear in the world. Although not so much for shoes, for tailoring and shirtmaking this is the motherlode, with hundreds of tailors in the city and surrounding region, and thousands working ...
Naples: A sartorial shopping guide
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Probably not, but worth asking the maker if they can perhaps prepare a fitting for you in that time, so you can be fitted and have the finished shirt sent to you...
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
The outfit I wore to present our Retailers Symposium last week was a donegal suit made by Dalcuore. I've liked the idea of a tweed suit for while - taking something so rural (as my mother would say, so 'Farmer Giles') and subverting its connotations...
Brown in town: Donegal-tweed suit, Dalcuore
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Yes, those are the main points - one you like the feel of but is also dense enough to hold a crease as a pair of trousers. One of those ones where it's a lot easier if you've seen it made up somewhere already. Perhaps ev...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
In recent months a few readers have asked for a breakdown of how I built my wardrobe - my plans, my process and my lessons learned. Doing so across all types of garment and even styles would produce a very long, unwieldy piece, so I thought I would ...
Building a wardrobe: Neapolitan tailoring
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My quintessential piece of advice for anyone considering going to a Neapolitan tailor is: make sure you are going to a Neapolitan tailor because you like the style and not because it is cheaper than Savile Row. If you go...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
I was quite intrigued to see Ethan Newton’s Bryceland's store in Tokyo when we visited a few weeks ago. In particular, how he is presenting his view on tailoring and how that mixes with the more casual americana side. The tailoring is essentia...
Ethan Newton’s Tokyo store – Brycelan...
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A vintage backpack, and a collaboration Brycelands did years ago with Frank Clegg, using some vintage cloth....
How to dress pale colours for summer
A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together – rather than commissioning them. I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the...
How to dress pale colours for summer
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If durability is a concern at all then maybe go with half lined on the front, yes. It's not that hard to take out later, as well...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
I was pleasantly surprised by the fit of this bespoke suit from Dalcuore in Naples, given I was a new customer and they were happy with just a single fitting. The jacket was a great fit straight off - clean through the chest, perfect on the shoulde...
Dalcuore bespoke brown Crispaire suit
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I wouldn't think that would be a good idea, no. You want some difference in texture or pattern - applies to pretty much all identical materials...
Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit
*London trunk show details: February 18-20 [email protected] +393458404232 32 Royal Crescent, London W11, UK* It’s been interesting to watch in recent years how more and more small tailors have come to prominence, getting coverage an...
Sartoria Dalcuore bespoke, brown high-twist suit
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When your arms are hanging naturally at your sides, the cloth of the sleeve should be smooth. And not look smoother and less wrinkled if you move your arm forward or back...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
Last month we had a book launch at the Brio menswear store in Beijing. It’s worth running through a few more details of the shop – because the stock is interesting, and because it is part of a pleasing trend in more s...
Brio menswear store – Beijing, China
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I haven't tried Inglese enough (one shirt a long time ago) to really comment on other areas like fit...
