Finding the right material for odd trousers - those worn with sports jackets rather than suits - is not easy.
The kind of smooth, worsted cloths you're used to wearing as part of a suit are too sleek and formal. Many cottons, particularly garment-washed chinos, are too casual.
The most popular alternative is flannel. In grey, it is a menswear classic and very versatile in its formality.
But it has disadvantages - specifically, that it is too thick to wear for much of the year and is terrible at holding its shape: it bags quickly and is awful when wet.
I have a lot of grey flannels - in fact, five pairs in various shades and weights. (And in the warmer months I wear a lot of high-twist trousers like Fresco and Crispaire.)
But I am increasingly turning towards cavalry twill, as a very versatile and functional alternative.
And I would certainly put it above the various other wool twills, like gabardine, serge, covert etc.
Among wool trousers, twills (those with a diagonal stripe running across the material) are particularly good for holding their shape and draping well.
But usually the first twill a tailor will offer is a gabardine.
This is the more traditional choice for an odd trouser, being more formal. But its formality and sheen make it less useful in a modern environment, when you might want to wear it with everything from a button-down popeline to a cowboy shirt (as pictured here).
Cavalry twill is less shiny, largely because of the double-twill weave that defines it - if you look closely at the surface, you can see two lines running down in parallel, rather than the single twill found on gabardine, serge, covert etc.
This also makes it more robust. (It was originally created for military riding trousers and breeches, hence the name.)
Part of cavalry twill's strength and durability is also reflected in the angle of that diagonal line.
To make a twill line run more steeply - more vertically down the cloth, rather than across it - you put more warp ends in relative to the weft. Of the wool twills, serge usually has an equal balance of warp and weft, gabardine has more warp ends, and cavalry twill has the most of all.
(They do all vary, however, and are usually best defined by other things - such as the tightness of weave with gabardine and the double twill with cavalry twill. More detail on weaves in general can be found on our 'Weaves and Designs' post, part of the Guide to Cloth.)
The trousers, by the way, were made by Richard James as part of a three-part commission last year that also included a mid-brown cashmere jacket (yet to be covered) and Harris tweed waistcoat (which I covered here).
Both the fit and the make of the trousers was superb. Beautiful straight line, snug fit at the waist, and lovely pick stitching - around the fly, for instance.
Savile Row tailors are not highlighted enough for the quality of their trouser work, largely because they will often be more expensive than Neapolitan specialists like Cerrato or Ambrosi.
But the work is just as good, just often focused more on things like a precisely fitted lining to the band, rather than dozens of tack stitches.
The cloth of the trousers is the Holland & Sherry cav twill I highlighted on my favourite cloths from them, last year.
The jacket is my Escorial-cloth piece from Solito, seen in review here.
The shoes are my old Edward Green Oundles.
The cowboy denim shirt is from Niche via No Man Walks Alone.
And the red-donegal beanie - which provides a nice pop of colour - is from Cappellificio Biellese (or CB1935 for short).
Photography: Jamie Ferguson @jkf_man
Speaking of no man walks alone – just ordered some campshita brown herringbone trousers on sale. Received a nice handwritten note and lovely packaging. Great balance between formal and trendy rtw
No Man Walks Alone is fantastic and they carry some really high quality companies and the service is excellent.
Would you really advocate a trouser made from covert cloth? At around 550 gr., they would be very heavy indeed.
I have heavier…
I’d recommend cav twill first, but covert could work as well, yes.
Great piece, Simon. When I look in my closet, it’s grey worsted, grey worsted, grey(er) worsted, grey flannel, grey flannel, blue chino, tan chino. Now I’ll be on the hunt for some twill.
On the subject of trousers what are the colours that should form a staple in any gentlemans wardrobe ?
Navy , beige, green …..?
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/03/trouser-colours-to-wear-with-odd-jackets.html
Great article – Cavalry Twill is definitely due a renaissance.
One thing; I have a CT waistcoat that is (quite literally) over 100 years old. It wears well under a tweed jacket but I wonder how you think CT would work as a jacket fabric?
Best
Stuart
In a dark colour, eg green or brown, it could be nice. I would go with covert perhaps though – I have a green-covert suit from Vergallo I am yet to right about that I think works very well in that regard.
Thanks. Look foward to that piece. How does whipcord differ from CT? Is it a matter of angle of the weave?
Whipcord is a single twill, and characterised by a vertical line.
Hi,
In addition, whipcord is a bit shiny.
Hello Simon,
from my own experiences I can only confirm what you write about cavalry twill. I wasn’t familiar with this material but ordered a pair from New and Lingwood in sand. When I saw the material on photos I was a bit concerned it could look kind of synthetic. But then, I was really surprised about how versatile and comfortable to wear they are. Even when worn frequently, they hold their shape pretty well. Due to this and the plain front cut it’s easy to combine them with sports coats or even short length leather jackets. That said, they become one of my most worn trousers during the last time (besides grey flannels, of course).
Karsten
Beautiful trousers, Simon. I wonder if you could give us some tips on how you care and clean them. My trousers never seem to be the same after the first wash!
Dry clean only, as i would with all wools and most tailored cottons too
Thanks Simon. I misunderstood and thought these trousers were cotton
Hi Simon,
Could you recommend any other makers that offer good cavalry twill trousers, rtw or other?
No, sorry, but I’ll have a look around. Traditional shops like Cordings would be a good pace to start
Cordings are considered the home of the covert coat, and they do make a good cavalry twill trouser.
Interesting. I like satinated cotton (smooth and a little bit shiny but not formal) for summer trousers and jackets but I am struggling to identify fabric merchants offering such them for tailors. I believe most are made in Italy. Do you know of any by any chance?
I’m afraid not, no
I purchased a pair of rtw, CT trousers from Paul Stuart last fall, Nov. ’16. Trousers are a dark olive. PS also sold them in navy which were very nice. I chose the olive because I though it more versatile and find it so. I do also think that the navy would be versatile as well. I’m surprised, Simon, that I do not see olive listed in your cited posted on Trouser Colors?
I do find olive very useful, yes, just not quite in the top five. Their use is also highly dependent on the shade of olive – often darker and more muted is better
I just looked at PS´s website (nice initials by the way). They offer cotton cavalry twill trousers. You only mention the wool version, so I wonder what you think of the cotton one.
Another reader recommends New & Lingwood. Are you familiar with their trousers?
I wouldn’t recommend cotton so highly, and no I’ve never tried the New & Lingwood ones. They are generally good though, so worth checking out
Hi Simon
I believe you class cavalry twill as quite a formal cloth. What’s the reasoning behind this? To me, it appears more casual as the twill pattern is not smooth.
It’s all relative.
It’s more casual than flannel, gabardine, high twists and other worsteds, which as i say is one reason i like it.
But it’s more formal than most cottons, chinos, cords, denim etc
Thanks for clarifying. Do you think, if the cut was slim, they could be worn without a sports jacket? Say, a field jacket or something similar.
Yes, potentially, as can flannels. Be aware they are slightly more formal than the normal trousers you might wear with such an outfit though
Any summer woollen fabrics you can recommend that would work in a casual outfit? Much like flannel in winter.
Nope. Linen or linen/cotton is your friend here
Would you recommend turnups for these?
Yes, turn ups could work very nicely. I have cuffs on the pale grey cav twills I’m wearing in my piece on the Finest Knitwear
There is no rule, and therefore no rule to be broken, but I think PTUs on a cavalry twill trouser is wrong. Given the heritage of the cloth, the correct finish is a military hem.
Hi Simon,
Do you have details of the grey cavalry twill cloth? They don’t look to have a completely uniform colour. Is this correct? Almost like a marled effect.
No, it’s pretty uniform.
I’ll get the details.
Hi Simon,
Eventually, we have the first post on CT. A few lines on weight might have been helpful.
John
This is 13oz – probably the minimum I’d recommend
Amazing trousers, as always!
Just out of curiosity, do you think a pair of worsted trousers of a versatile colour (like charcoal/mid grey) can work as odd trouser? There are many examples where people do this, but the result often varies very much. Some look very nice but some not so nice. Are there any times that you would try that? Also, what do you thinks of the idea of combining worsted odd jackets and trousers? Perhaps in a little more formal setting than normal sports jackets + trousers in less formal fabrics like flannel?
We come up against definitions here, as the wool in a pair of cav twills is worsted, as it is in high-twist Fresco.
Really, what you’re struggling against is worsted with too hard a press, or fine a yarn, that then produces too shiny a finish.
I’d recommend avoiding those and sticking to the materials we mention here.
And I would definitely avoid odd jackets that have this worsted, suit look. Much worse and harder to pull off.
Cavalry twill trousers. That brings back memories. The trouser of choice for members of the Young Conservatives in the 1960s. Preferably teamed with a tattersall shirt, a cravat, string back gloves and a Sunbeam Alpine.
If only one could purchase the same quality clothes today at an affordable price.
Simon
What’s the weight of your trousers you are wearing in the pic and cavalry twill does come in various other colors,i guess?
13 ounce. And yes, lots of others, though often rather more casual, country colours
Another characteristic is that cavalry twill wears cool for its weight. Apart from that it drapes and holds its crease well. Dugdale produce a very good, sturdy one .
As nice as the trousers are, you’ve said hardly anything about the most striking part of the outfit- the cowboy shirt! I’d love to know your reasoning behind choosing this over a regular denim shirt- i have to say it’s not something I’d ever wear in an outfit like this (or at all of Im honest), but I’ve also never considered wearing one with tailored clothes
Good point Hugh, another post perhaps
Hi Simon
Regarding the cowboy shirt, are you wearing that off the peg or did you get it altered for fit?
Overall, really nice combo.
Off the peg
Another great outfit here, Simon… So this is 13oz from the Dakota bunch, would you recommend this for Summer or is it too heavy and more suitable for Spring? There are some nice 14 to 14.5 oz also in that H&S Dakota bunch — but wondering if they’re more for the winter…
Those weights should all be good for anything but summer, yes
Hi Simon
Following a meeting at your shop I ordered a bespoke pair of trousers from one of the tailors there. We had quite a discussion about pleats which seem very much in vogue in Naples. I notice you opted for a flat front here. Can I ask why. Also you say the cloth holds its shape well does this include its crease. I wonder that more people don’t opt for perhaps treated cloth that keeps its crease /shape better
Thanks
Paul
Hi Paul,
I tend to prefer flat fronts both because they look more contemporary and because pleats don’t deal well with my shape – a prominent seat that tends to force those pleats open and keep them open.
Yes, cav twill holds a crease well. Generally people avoid treating cloth to maintain that crease because it detracts from the natural behaviour of the cloth. In the long term some artificial creases can cause the cloth to crack along the pleat as well.
Pleats on cavalry twill? Good grief.
Hi Simon,
First of all thank you for your invaluable work here, it means a lot.
I wanted to know what’s your take on trouser linings as I’m going to have one made and wanted to know your opinion. Do you prefer half, full or no lining at all?. I’m including casual pants to (except jeans of course).
Thankfully,
Fernando.
Generally a half lining. Sometimes no lining on summer trousers
Carrying your hat around all day must be annoying. I recommend wearing it on your head. Failing that, can I suggest a rucksack
I actually like stuffing it in my top pocket. Gives a lovely accent of colour
Yes – cavalry twill is very fitting in the modern world where suits are less common. I have some trousers coming soon in moleskin – another of the cotton fabrics that is very comfortable for casual wear. Given it’s work-wear history and somewhat floppy shape, it’s further down the casual spectrum, I think, than cavalry twill, but can still look nice with a casual jacket – maybe unstructured rather than structured. Would you agree?
Yes i would, in terms of formality.
Hello Simon,
I like the way the fly on these trousers is created to be flat and even and the lapp sits nice and tight against the waistband, with no corners popping up. I’m curious how this fly and lapped waistband are created? Such as – is it a zipper fly or button fly, 2 side-by-side hook and bar closures appear to hold the end of the lapp in place but I can’t be sure, and so on. I know this is a little detailed but if you could explain each attachment piece of the fly, that would be great for my own trousers to match this similar look.
Thanks for the help and a quick side note here – I voiced some concerns before about where things were headed for you and PM with the changes in the recent past, such as the revamped website, and your assurance that the important elements I’ve enjoyed since the beginning would remain unchanged. It’s nice to see those assurances are holding strong. Nice going!
Hi Tim,
Thanks. It is a zip fly, there is a button in the centre above the fly and one hook and bar closure at the end.
In my experience, however, these details are not what make the front lie clean – it is more caused by the construction of the lining to the waistband, the attention to detail and finishing there, and of course the fit to make sure nothing is pulling.
anyone wanting something really exciting in cavalry twill should check out the red
Simon,
Is there a prominent difference between cavalry twill and whipcord?
It’s not huge, but whipcord has a different direction of twill and will a little bit more casual
Do you still feel that whipcord is more casual than cavalry twill? If so, any particular reason?
Usually, yes, but bear in mind whipcord usually just means a single prominent twill rather than double. So you can still get lots of different colours, melanges, yarns etc that will affect how casual or not it looks
Simon, your casual trousers always look spot on. If you don’t mind, could you offer up some advice in terms of rise and hem measurements? At 5’7 I’m finding it difficult to find options that I find both comfortable and aesthetically pleasing. My natural waist is above my navel and I have a rather long torso.
Hi Simon, I notice you say you wear your pants at the waist but what height is this? I ask because my waist is about 3 inches above my belly button but you don´t seem to wear such high waisted trousers. Do you wear them at your belly button or above it?
Thanks in advance
Sorry, I wear them on my hips, not my natural waist. There are really only two places you can wear them unless you use braces – hips or waist
Hi Simon,
Thanks for this article. I will try cavalry twill for trouser next time.
I wound like to ask if the cavalry twill trouser is suitable for hot climate?
And which kind of flannel is better for trousers? worsted or woolen?
Cav twill is OK for warm environments, but like many trouser cloths it is best when heavy, which won’t suit heat.
And definitely woollen flannel. Again, the heavier the better unfortunately. Otherwise you’re losing a lot of what is attractive about the cloth
I have ordered pair of trousers in the same cavalry twill as in this post so I’m curious how they will turn out. However when I went through H&S Dakota bunch I found very little choices for cavalry twill.
Can you recommend some other mills and bunches for cavalry twill with more colors? Colors like navy, cream, light fawn, chocolate and so on?
Simon,
You mention that CT trousers are relatively durable. Do you have any experience in cycling in them? What I mean here are very short (2-3 km) commutes on a city bike. I would not do it in flannels but for CT it may be possible. What do you think?
It would certainly be among the most durable dress trousers for it. But on the other hand, they’re never going to last that long if you do it a lot
Simon, you use so many trouser makers it’s difficult not to lose track! If you had to use only one, which one would you keep out of Pomella, Cerrato, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Richard James…?
It’s not an easy question… W&S is great for value, Pommella/Cerrato for finishing and details. Can I at least have two?
Okay, two!
Finishing aside, any difference in style?
Yes, but slight ones. Pommella cuts a little narrow in the thigh, Cerrato a little straighter, but both things you can have differently if you want
I was particularly interested in the differences between English and Italian, especially W&S.
Is this Cavalry cloth thick enough for autum and winter trousers? I am still looking for a cold season alternative to chinos.
Just about, it is a bit light. You ideally want something a bit heavier, like the cav twill Fox rewove for me
Sounds tempting. Where would I get this exclusive rewove cav twill?
From the Merchant Fox website
Hello Simon, a question (or two): What do you mean when you say Flannel ‘bags’? And what do you mean it doesn’t work in the wet? You mean it holds onto water too long?
Also, I have two pairs of trousers in a cavalry twill, but heavy cotton, not wool. Do you think they can achieve the same level of formality?
It can lose its shape, particularly around the knees. In the wet this happens more, and it is more likely to rip when wet too.
Cotton cavalry twill can be quite formal, but is unlikely to be as much as wool
When you say “…but is unlikely to be as much as wool.” Do you mean in price or that Cotton CT is not as formal as Wool CT?
Thanks for responding! Follow up: how do I treat the bagging of flannel trousers? Hang them in the shower with me, iron under a towel, just fold them well?
You have to re-press them, so yes iron under a towel.
Greetings, Simon.
I don’t quite know where to put this, but here we go…
I, and I believe many of your other readers, would love to see a segment by you called, “What I am Wearing Today”. The title is self-explanatory. It can be as random as you have time for and shouldn’t take much writing work as you would merely just give us some short description of the items you’re wearing on that particular day and maybe where you are headed and why you picked what you are wearing; quick and dirty bullet points – with pictures/ or a picture even- of course. Think of it as a more detailed sequel to the piece you did a while ago telling us how you decide what to wear every morning.
I did give you the idea of the Lookbook, so maybe you’ll entertain my crazy thoughts once again. Thank you, Simon
Thanks
Jackson
Hi Jackson,
The thoughts are appreciated, thank you. I do like publishing images like this, and descriptions, and I know readers like them.
However, I do also like to get use decent photography, and put some thought into what I’m writing about the pieces. As a result it’s hard to commit to doing quite so much extra coverage.
I will carry on doing these pieces, but I would also suggest browsing through the Lookbook (which has worked well – thanks) and following on Instagram, where I do sometimes do Stories about little things I’m wearing each day.
Thanks again
Hi Simon
Would this colour cavalry twill complement your brown Harris tweed jacket?
Also, I’ve seen heavy Jacketing flannel (540g) on the Fox Website, is this still OK for trousers?
Hi Simon
Would this colour cavalry twill complement your brown Harris tweed jacket?
Also, I’ve seen heavy Jacketing flannel (540g) on the Fox Website, is this still OK for trousers?
Yes it would I think.
I’d ask Fox just to check how loose it is woven, but it should be OK I’d imagine
Simon,
Would you recommend forward pleats on cavalry twill trousers?
And are Dugdale’s or HE Box’s cavalry twill good for trousers?
Thanks,
S
No more or less than on other materials really. They will look a little more dressy/sartorial, but they should hold a nice sharp line given the structure of cavalry twill.
Yes, those are good options
Thanks. The Dakota cloth from H&S seems a bit light being 13oz. If you re-ordered these trousers, would you choose a heavier cloth?
Thanks,
S
No, I think 13oz would be fine
Thanks. So the 16-21 oz from Dugdales (and 990g from HE Box) would be too heavy?
And do you think “Light Fawn” or “Mid Fawn” is closest to your trousers in Dugdales? http://www.dugdalebros.com/the-white-rose-caldonaire/#!/the-white-rose-caldonaire/sort/az/rows/20/page/2/
Thanks,
S
Certainly anything more than 16oz would feel very heavy.
Light fawn I think
Thanks! The Dugdale “Light Fawn” is 21oz, so that does sound a bit too heavy then..
Talking to Russell at GB it looks like a lot of the classic Cavalry Twill is around the 20-21 oz mark. I understand that this is also the “classic” weight for trousers in this type of cloth. Would I end up with something unwearably warm at that weight and what is your view that such heavy weight is the classic/traditional weight?
Thanks,
S
It’s the traditional weight just because it’s been used most for really rugged clothing, even outerwear.
I don’t think it would be unbearably hot at 20-21. It would be wearable. It’s just that you’d end up not wearing it for large parts of the year.
Trousers made of 20-21oz CT are warm, but less than those made of flannel. I am using mines until late spring, more or less until the moment when I am moving to lightweight wool / linen.
The big advantage is that they need very little pressing. Great for travelling.
Thanks Daniel, that’s helpful to know.
Simon, do you btw know what weight Cording’s Cavalry Twill trousers are?
Thanks,
S
No, sorry
Simon, whats your opinion on cotton drill trousers? Regards Henry
Can be very nice, mostly in a.more casual texture for wear with more casual jackets
Hi Simon, I just ordered myself bespoke cavalry twill trousers from the same fabric from Holland & Sherry. What would be the best navy fabric type to match with the trousers? Hopsack or? Thank you
Any navy should work really. The weave wont make much difference. Just make sure the navy is dark, not a mid-blue, and ideally have a little texture in it, like herringbone or a subtle check
Thank you. I trust double breasted navy will also do? regards,
Yes, DB navy would be nice
Hi Simon,
Any experience with the Summer Variety cavalry twills from H&S? I’m looking to add more texture to my multi-season trouser lineup, but afraid the Dakota line would be too warm into the warmer months. Do you think the 8oz is just a bit too light to drape well?
Thanks,
JC
I don’t I’m afraid JC – do let me know how the cav twills work out though
I am ordering a pair of cavalry twill trousers in the exact same color. Would you also be able to use them with a navy blazer or would the comtrast be too high?
No, that would work well
Is cavalry twill a type of serge Simon? the description sounds similar. are you able to recommend any cloth books which have a serge in them?
No – both are twills but neither is a sub-set of the other. Cavalry twill always has a distinctive double twill line.
Did you look at the piece on trouser cloths for more general info in this area? See here.
ok makes sense. I found that cavalry twill is usually woven densely as well. I want to find a serge for a blazer but Im not sure where to look as there is no book of just ’twills’ if that makes sense)
Brilliant post on Cavalry Twill Trousers.
I had a look at the excellent Holland & Sherry Dakota Bunch and it carries Whipcords & Bedford Cords in various weights and colours, including oatmeal.
Which of these weights of cloth is best for wearing most of the year? I had considered 12oz, allowing for a Central heated environment.
12 oz would be perfect Lindsay. Something around 11-13 is the most useful, at least in a temperate climate
Simon, Do you think it would make sense to use twill « Dakota collection from H&S » for a blazer
No, they’re best for trousers, and perhaps for a suit
Simon, would you prefer H&S to Dugdale when it comes to cavalry twill? Thanks.
I wouldn’t say there’s much difference except in the shade and weight you want.
Hi Simon,
I am collecting style ideas for some trousers to be made. The waistband of your cav twills here looks great. Seems wider than the standard 3.5 cms, is it 5 cms?
And,
Would you say that trousers that sit on the hips, with side adjusters sewn on the seam and 5 cms waistband is a good compromise between a mid and a high rise?
Thanks,
Hey Nico. Those are 4cm I believe.
In terms of the rise, it depends what you mean by ‘on the hips’. There’s a good two inches of variation there, which are basically the difference between low and mid-rise. Although the adjustors on the seam might help you a little.
There’s actually a post coming soon on this, which might help
Thanks awfully, will be on the lookout
Hey Simon,
Would you consider the Dugdale’s navy cav. twill to be a reasonable contender for a jacket? Or is it better applied to suits?
Much better for suits. Too dense for a jacket – see here for more on why
Thank you Simon!
Hi Simon,
a styling question. What do you think of paring these pale tan trousers (I have one made of exactly the same cloth and color) with black shoes (if other parts of an outfit are dark grey or navy rather than brown)? Preferably loafers, penny or tassel. Would you consider this paring garish or elegant? What socks would you choose? Navy, to make the transition more seamless, or the same light color as that of trousers to rather “punctuate” at the bottom of an outfit?
Thanks!
John
I think these might work John, yes. The colour of the tan is just about cold enough. I’d try a white shirt and charcoal knitwear with it.
On socks, I’m not sure I understand the question – surely matching the trousers (which is what I would do instinctively) is more seamless? Navy socks, on the other hand, would be neither the same as the trousers nor the shoes, so contrasting with both?
Simon, I apologize for the unclear question. I meant that with navy socks, the contrast between the tan trousers and the black shoes would not be so obvious. And on the other hand, with tan socks, the black shoes would be more striking. So, with the black shoes, you would prefer the tan for socks?
Yes I would. If possible, a tan that’s a shade or two darker than the trousers would help
Hi Simon, at what temperature do you find wearing your cavalry twill trousers too hot?
It depends on various other factors as well of course, but perhaps around 16-18 degrees?
Great pants! I am seeing the Calvary Twill comes in both wool or cotton. Are they interchangeable regarding what they can be worn with (can cotton calvary twill trousers be worn with Tweed for example)? Also, does cotton hold up as well as wool re: draping effect and wrinkling?
Usually it’s a wool Bruno, and that’s what we’re talking about here. I don’t have any in a cotton, but they would be similar in terms of what they could be worn with, but would certainly not drape as well or last as long
Thank you Simon!
Hi Simon, I’ve started to turn to cavalry twill recently and have acquired my first pair in a deep dark brown colour…
Will dark brown cavalry twill work with a navy cashmere sportscoat or a charcoal herringbone sportscoat?
Yes, it should look nice with either. You can see mine here with a navy jacket. It’s strictly whipcord I think, but I assume it’s similar?
Simon,
Is cavalry twill informal enough to pair comfortably with an OCBD?
They’re not really in the same area of formality, but it wouldn’t look odd. Depends what you’re wearing elsehwere
What would you say are the best colors for cavalry twill besides the light beige ones you’re wearing?
The same as any other trousers really – mid and dark grey, navy, dark greens and browns.
Hi Simon – any tips on how to avoid cav twill looking too “fuddy” and old-mannish? For example going for dark green or dark grey colours to be more urban?
Yes, I’d say key is going for very dark colours, and avoiding rural ones.
Eg the brown here, or the green here
So helpful! Is the green link a typo? Despite years of devotedly reading this I don’t think I had seen the brown link, which is excellent
Sorry, yes, it should be the Everyday Denim article here
Hi Simon,
Have you any experience of the trousers at Cordings on Piccadilly? Are they a good starter for someone looking to try cavalry twill for the first time?
Yes they are, a decent make. Just be careful of the fits – the design can be a little old-fashioned, so it’s something you have to bring your own style to, or perhaps alter
Definitely. I was intent on getting them but after trying on had to pull back.
Somewhat odd how Cordings refuses to make some slight adjustments to their cuts / fits that would easily make them much more contemporary.
Thanks so much. Looks like a trip to the local alterations tailor might help!
Simon,
Does cavalry twill pair with OCBD? If not, other than flannel or denim, what trouser cloth would you wear with an OCBD?
If it’s a smarter oxford, and perhaps in white, yes, but it’s not an obvious pairing. I would also wear one with cottons or chinos
I suppose a Royal Oxford or pinpoint (smarter than OCBD, per se) would be more appropriate? Thanks!
Yes, or something wintry like a brushed cotton perhaps
Why the cavalry twill can’t go well with the OBCD? When it is more casual than the flannels and OBCD goes well with the flannels, no?
Cavalry twill is more casual in some ways, less.so in others. The colours are normally more casual, but the material itself is actually quite sharp – if both trousers were in dark grey, the cav twill might look smarter
What do you think of these denim-type fabrics as a more modern alternative to cavalry twill? Given how much more casual things are these days https://stoffa.co/products/ecru-upcycled-cotton-plain-front-washable-trouser-22-05
I think they’re really nice – they’ll look closer to jeans than a cavalry twill, but definitely more casual yet still tailored
Hi Simon,
I’d like to ask about some technicalities of this pair of trousers pictured in this article/bespoke trousers in general.
Is the waistband made of only one layer of the trousers’s cloth? It seems to me so from the pictures, because the edges don’t seem to be folded on the end piece (the part where the hooks are). Or is there really any lining beneath? (On these trousers the hooks are sewn through the top cloth. I usually have my trousers made with these stitches not visible, i. e. there’s the second layer of the primary cloth on the front and after the second hook some cotton lining starts and is used all around the waist.)
What lining bespoke makers generally use on the inside of waistband/zip area? I mean on thigh it’s basically cupro/ermazine – is it the same on the waist? Or rather some striped cotton as a kind of trademark?
And the last question: Is the inside of the seat (from the back waistband to the bottom end of the zip on the front) usually covered by any lining? On my trousers, expect for the pocketing cloth on the back, I have none.
Thank you very much! John
Hi John,
No, there are two pieces of cloth, one on the inside and one on the outside, then canvas in between.
It’s the same material on the waist, but sometimes with a pattern yes.
No, that is usually not lined.
Would cavalry twill trousers pair well with cowboys boots of a fairly dressy variety?
I’m not sure I can speak to that too much, as I don’t wear them anywhere near that smart, only with denim. But I would think they would look a little too smart
Hi Simon, would these cavalry twill trousers work with a safari jacket(e.g. A&S’s Travel jacket) and the white Common Project sneakers? I have never seen cavalry twill trousers in person, so I am unsure whether they would look less smart than I think, as they look like pretty formal trousers.
Many thanks,
Jack
No they wouldn’t work with Common Projects Jack – have a look at where they sit in that sliding scale piece on trousers I did
Thanks, Simon.
So is the H&S Dakota book the best for finding cav twill fabrics? What other books you would recommend?
A few other English mills do do them, but I’ve never used any of the others I’m afraid – and haven’t had a need to generally, Dakota has had what I’ve needed
Hi Simon,
Do CTs and Whipcords like these catch on OTC socks? I often struggle with trousers getting caught on my knees when walking or getting up from a chair.
No more than other trousers such as flannels. I’d suggest having a slightly wider leg perhaps
Hi Simon,
Do you think light or midgrey Cavarly Twill is as versatile as beige/fawn? Just in my opinion, Beige or Fawn Cavalry twill trouser looks almost no different to dressy twill chino at first sight. Or should i go to beige/fawn Whipcord because of its intereing texture and melange?
I have had a grey, but found it a little cold and dull. I’d go for an ecru or something with just a little brown/beige in it, like this
Hi Simon, do you think you would have preferred belt loops as in your trousers in flannel if you had commissioned one in cavalry twill these days?
Many thanks,
Jack
I think I could still have gone either way Jack, depending how smart I wanted them to be
Can I ask you why you don’t wear Cavalry Twill regularly? Was considering a pair of pants, but feel it has too much look of a more casual alternative (e.g. cotton) but it doesn’t match the functionality.
I find mine a bit too smart in the sharpness of the material, but a little casual/rural in the colour.
I have ones in charcoal and dark brown that I wear more now
What do you think of using CAVALRY TWILL to make a suit.
I m living in a tropical country and quite formal working environment, i m planning to get a light weight dark navy cav twill cloth
Do you think would it be a good idea?and why?
Thank you so much!
In that colour I think it would be great, very sharp and a little unusual (not your standard business suit) but still professional. In other colours I wouldn’t really recommend it – eg I have one here but don’t wear it much
Do you have a particular bunch or brand you might be recommending
Not especially, but I’d stay with the English ones and there isn’t much of a difference between them. Look for colour, weight you want. Dakota bunch from H&S used to be good but that’s been split up among different bunches I think
It’s Holland and Sherry Seasonal Classics. It’s a tweaked version of Dakota. No Bedford cord and a few extreme colours edited out, some light weight cloth added in. A very nice bunch indeed.
Hope that helps.
Thanks, yes it does
Happy New Year, Simon. Thanks for all you do.
Quick one — what do you think about a navy English cavalry twill cloth blazer with grey flannels? I am looking to upgrade a navy hopsack jacket that I wear as a separate with grey trousers. I’d ideally get another navy hopsack blazer, but I’ve seen a very nice cavalry twill version on sale.
I associate cavalry twill with trousers and I’m unsure whether a blazer made of this fabric would work well as a separate — as if I’ve got it the wrong way round.
As always, your opinion would be much appreciated.
I think it could work but it would be quite sharp, perhaps a little smart. If I was commissioning one I’d prefer less of a sharp wool, but it’s worth trying and seeing what you think
Hello Simon, Do you still wear your CT trouser often? One day I saw a gentleman wearing it and the surface of CT seems too sleek or shiny more than I thought. I would like to have a beige or fawn trouser with a slight brushed look, is there any other stuff? I think chino is kinda casual for a jacket.
Now and again, but I wouldn’t say often. Yes, cavalry twill can have a bit of a sheen to it.
Have you tried just cotton trousers – not chinos, but tailored cottons? They can have a bit of a texture and not be as casual as chinos. Otherwise something like moleskin or cord
Hi Simon
Do you know the manufacturer of the fabric of your trousers?
I am looking for that color and I can’t find it for the moment.
Kind regards
Carlos
Hi Carlos – yes, it’s detailed at the end of the article?
Oops! Sorry about that and thank you so much, Simon
No worries
I love the trousers they look very sharp. Are they also a good match with navy and gray jackets?
Yes – a little smart, but they work well