A guide to piqué cotton polo shirts
By Manish Puri
Whilst the recent sun in London has brought a sugar rush of excitement for the warmer days that lie ahead, it also brings a more troubling, recurring question: how do I usually dress for summer?
It shouldn’t be difficult to answer. After all, this will be my forty-third summer of wearing clothes. Nevertheless, it evokes the same anti-Pavlovian, temporary amnesia I would suffer upon returning to school after summer holidays, where I would spend the first fortnight trying to recall how to hold a pencil.
Fortunately, I know that while I regain my summer- bearings, I can always turn to a piqué polo shirt.
Whether layered under a jumper while the weather makes its mind up (Toshiro Mifune, above), tucked into a pair of tailored trousers (Sidney Poitier, below) or spilling over a pair of shorts while making tennis racquets levitate (Paul Newman, further below), a piqué polo can be relied on to see you through the summer.
My hope is that this article serves to highlight some of the best options on the market.
But before we get into the brands, permit me a brief aside on what a piqué knit is and what ‘best’ looks like.
Piqué fabric is a double weave knit (two warp and two weft threads). It is this twin layer that gives piqué its signature waffle or quilt texture on one side, and a smooth finish on the other. And it is the space between those layers that encourages air flow, making it breathable.
Most other cotton polos are usually made of jersey (a smoother, single knit fabric), which is stretchier. But a piqué polo tends to be more durable, more absorbent of dye and better at concealing sweat.
So, what are we looking for in a piqué cotton polo? After all, there’s no shortage of options out there.
To answer that question (and with my apologies to the diamond trade) allow me to introduce you to my three Cs of piqué polo shopping.
Composition | - The cheapest polos may use a cotton-synthetic blend and plastic buttons. Nearly all the polos in this guide are 100% cotton (the one exception is noted).
- At higher price points they are likely to be made of extra-long staple cotton (such as Sea Island) with mother of pearl buttons. |
Construction | - High-quality construction points might include a set-on placket, reinforced vents, hand-sewn buttons, flat felled seams and ribbed hems.
- Most polos will be made using a cut-and-sew technique, but at a higher price point some polo are fully fashioned. This also makes them feel more like knitwear. - Where the polos are made will have a significant impact on cost (and possibly on quality). |
Collar | - The cheapest polos tend to come with simple ribbed collars that often curl up over time.
- At higher price points the collars may be constructed in the same manner as a shirt collar (with a collar band and even interlining) which makes them more suitable with tailoring. |
You’ll find reference (and more detail) to each of the three Cs throughout this guide, but it’s important to note that an expensive polo won’t automatically have all the higher-end features. For example, Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label polo (£300) comes with a simple ribbed collar.
What does usually happen at a higher price is that the polos tend to be finer, sleeker and dressier – which some might consider antithetical to the essence of a piqué polo.
As is so often the case, the choice will come down to personal style and usage; do you want your polo relaxed and sporty, or do you want something finer and smarter?
On the subject of collars and usage, whilst it is undeniably easier to wear a shirt-collar polo with tailoring (and let’s set aside any arguments over whether one should wear a jacket with short sleeves in the first place) it’s certainly not impossible to wear a softer smaller collar if you’re blessed with the mischievous charisma of Yasuto Kamoshita (above). No? Me neither.
With that we’re ready to take a look at the brands, which are presented in ascending price order. For context on sizing, I’m a pretty standard 38” chest and tried on a medium in most places.
I’ve focused on ten but have provided links to an alternative ten that have similarities to the featured ones. In addition, you can shop over 40 designers (including Altea, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Loro Piana, Rubinacci and Tom Ford) at Mr Porter with this customised search link.
As always with these guides, my research will only take us so far and therefore I’m grateful to anyone that can add their experience with these or any other piqué polo shirts below the line.
I hope you find something to piqué your interest (sorry, Simon, I held off on that joke as long as I could).
I really want you to read the whole guide. Right to the end. I’ve featured some great polos that I believe are definitely worth your time. With that said, it is with some reluctance that I inform you that the first shirt in this guide (the Moxon polo from Trunk) is also one of the best all-round options.
The details are on par with most of the other polos here: a crisp cotton, mother of pearl buttons, reinforced vents and a soft shirt collar with interlining that gives it a bit of pep. Sure, it doesn’t have the collar expanse of the Rubato, the airiness of the Sunspel or the dreamy texture of the Brioni but, for the price, it’s hard to find fault.
What appealed to me most (and this is entirely personal) was the fit. Trunk’s medium is 2-3 cm slimmer in the chest than most of the brands featured but still 2-3 cm bigger than Orlebar Brown (which is too slim for my tastes).
Of course, one might be able to achieve a similar fit by sizing down on other brands - and I successfully did this with Anderson & Sheppard - but often issues of comfort around the shoulders and armhole start to surface. For my body at least, the Moxon hit a sweet spot of shape without any compromise in comfort.
Other Options: At a similar price and style, William Crabtree stock a pair of classic piqué polo shirts in navy and white (£75) that are made from Californian Supima cotton
What I enjoy most about Rubato’s designs (and this isn’t limited to their tennis shirt) is that whilst they’re rooted in simple and easy elegance, when they choose to emphasise a detail, they’re happy to be bold.
The chest pocket on their tennis shirt is there to actually, you know, put stuff in and the two-piece collar is wider than a Florentine steak – measuring around 8cm in point length compared to 6cm on the Trunk model.
The fit is Rubato’s Ivy Fit, which is generous (compared to both their own Standard Fit and the other polos in this guide) and straight cut through the body. The shirt is finished with tennis tails, which is where the rear hem is longer than the front. This is a detail lifted from René Lacoste’s original polos and helps the shirt stay tucked in whilst sprinting, jumping and lunging for the ball (or, in my case, jogging in a vain attempt to catch the last night bus).
The buttons are plastic, but I think this underlines the functionality. Whilst it would undoubtedly look good with a pair of jeans, I suspect nothing would make the Rubato team happier than to hear you’d also played a few sets in it.
Other options: I can’t vouch for the quality but if you wanted to bring classic tennis style to your wardrobe there is a website called Golden Age of Tennis that makes reproductions of classic shirts, like the Fila pinstripe worn by Björn Bjorg when he won Wimbledon.
Acknowledging the instrumental role that the French tennis player René Lacoste had in developing the modern polo shirt, I wanted to take a look at what his eponymous brand had to offer today.
The Classic fit is made from a honeycombed petit-piqué cotton with mother of pearl buttons, and I found it to be comfortable and well fitting. The collar is the standard ribbed collar that was originally designed to flip up, stay up and bestow a tennis player’s neck with protection from the sun. Whilst it might not be the most sartorially refined choice, it does compliment the sporty nature of the piqué and there are far more expensive polos than this in the guide that still insist on a ribbed collar.
However, to my mind, the best reason for picking a Lacoste polo over any other featured here is the colour options – I counted 45 different colours online with 14 shades of blue alone! If you can’t find what you want here, you’re unlikely to find it in any other brand.
Lacoste also carry a Paris fit (£110) that intrigued me, billed, as it is, using words that I fancy would describe many a PS reader: “discrete” and “elegant”. You could argue that the tone-on-tone crocodile logo and hidden-button placket help to achieve the discrete part.
However, the 6% elastane that is woven with the cotton seldom confers elegance, given that its primary duty seems to be clinging onto contours of the body that should only be clung onto when a mate needs to gain some purchase. Oh, and the collar is pathetic.
Other options: If it’s another tennis-inspired heritage polo you desire then you should look no further than the M12 from Fred Perry (£85).
There wasn’t much I didn’t like about Luca Faloni’s Italian-made short sleeve piqué polo shirts. They fit well (although they are one of the straighter and roomier options in the body so you might prefer a size smaller), the colours were unexciting but versatile and the finishing was good with mother of pearl buttons, attached using the crow’s foot stitch that is used to indicate hand sewing.
The only thing I would say is the shirts didn’t feel very piqué-y, which you could argue is quite a significant drawback for an article on piqué shirts. The knit just wasn’t open or gauzy and so the finish of the shirts was relatively smooth and verging on jersey.
Given the styling and the price point I’d say the Luca Faloni option is ideal for someone that likes the Lacoste or Ralph Lauren options but wants something without a logo and a less sporty finish.
Other options: The Riviera from Kenneth Field is similarly priced (£130) and styled with a flat knitted collar. Available in navy and white on The Merchant Fox.
Forever known as the ‘James Bond polo’ after being featured in Casino Royale, the Riviera shirt is Sunspel’s best-selling polo. It’s not technically made from a piqué cotton (although they do sell those for £115 as well) but rather a soft cotton mesh called Quality 75 (Q75).
Developed by Sunspel in the 1950s, the loops of the Q75 mesh are knitted at an angle which gives them a unique diagonal shape and allows more room for air to circulate. That gauziness was immediately apparent when I held the Riviera to the light, and it helped the polo feel supremely comfortable – this was definitely one of my favourites on the body and shoulders.
As a hirsute fellow, I would caution that any chest hair is likely to navigate its way through the mesh as the day progresses so (if that bothers you) you might want to stick to darker colours or polos with a tighter knit.
The Riviera does have a soft tailored collar, but it is a little meagre – certainly when compared to The Armoury or Rubato models featured – which, in my view, makes it less elegant.
The Riviera was one of the few polos I found with a small chest pocket which should (just about) hold a pair of sunglasses depending on your activity levels; if you’re planning on chasing a MacGuffin through a crowded Moroccan souk then it would be wise to put them in a case; but if your only exertion is moving from hotel room to hotel pool then they should be secure.
Other options: An option that has lots of texture but isn’t technically a piqué is a collaboration between Warehouse & Co and the Japanese artist Yusuke Hanai. Their polo is knit using a traditional Japanese pattern called Kanoko and features a traditional Herashi collar (that almost looks like a long point). There aren’t many of these kicking around but Clutch Café and Son of a Stag currently have very limited stock (£149).
Orlebar Brown has a large range of polo shirts with names plucked from what I can only assume must be a register of superyacht owners: Horton, Fitzgerald and Gaston. However, it’s their Sebastian model that comes in a reassuringly robust piqué cotton which, whilst unlikely to win any awards for refinement and softness, feels like it could sit forgotten at the bottom of a suitcase for a fortnight and still come out ready to wear.
The shirts have had every millimetre of excess liposuctioned out of them and so they fit trimmer than any other polo in this guide. If you want a more relaxed style, I advise either sizing up or looking elsewhere. In keeping with the tapered fit, the sleeves are very short with little triangle cutaways in the cuff to reveal even more bicep – we get it Sebastian, you like to work out.
The buttons (including two that are placed oddly onto the sleeve cuffs above the cutaways) are made of nylon and the side of the shirt has a brand tag stitched into the seam. The latter isn’t an issue if you like to tuck your polos in as I do, although I think the Sebastian would work well untucked as its tapered waist and curved hems prevents it from looking too much like a nightdress.
Most notably the polos feature a two-piece collar of decent height and proportion that should hold its own under a light jacket. I also loved the deeper placket, which gives the wearer more scope for breeze and to tease.
Other options: Fellow swimwear brand Vilebrequin stock a range of piqué polos (£95 to £125) that come in bright, beach-ready colours and a similarly trim fit.
Let’s cut to the chase on this one: the Armoury’s polo shirts (made for them in a mid-weight piqué by Hong Kong tailors Ascot Chang) are the best in this guide for wearing with a tailored jacket because they have been expressly designed to do that.
The construction includes a full collar band and light interlining (as you would find in a good shirt) which offers support and height to the collar, ensuring it doesn’t get bullied into submission by a jacket over the course of a summer evening.
The shape of the collar is a wide spread, which is unique amongst the polos in this guide. If you’re not a fan of that shape, The Armoury does offer a short-sleeve button down version, but the compromise is that you only get to pick from two colours (navy and white) whereas the spread comes in sixteen colours (the forest green above looks particularly lush). Alternatively, you could buy a one piece collar model from Ascot Chang directly.
Given the formal nature of the collar you won’t be surprised to hear that The Armoury polo is not designed to be worn untucked, with a length that is several centimetres longer than most of the other polos in this guide. Although, as with most Armoury products, they can be made to order if you desire a shorter version.
Most of the polos in this guide have a three-button placket but The Armoury has opted for just two. Whilst this might be a shade more conservative, it does have a simplicity and neatness that might make Mies van der Rohe smile - having designed the venetian blinds of his Seagram building to only have three functioning positions: open, half drawn and fully drawn.
Other options: Kent Wang sells some excellent value polos ($75) with mother of pearl buttons and a spread collar with integrated collar band. The fit is very slim so size up.
Of the polo shirts at the top end of the price range (above £200) the Anderson & Sheppard model was the one I liked most, for the simple reason that it looked and felt like a good piqué polo and not an overtly ‘luxe’ facsimile.
The cotton was a little softer and finer in the hand than some of the dryer cotton polos from Trunk and Orlebar Brown, but still had a pleasing honeycomb texture. The knit is not as compact as other brands, so the polos had a little natural stretch when on the body which improved comfort.
I tried both the medium and small sizes and found the small had a sharper appearance all round. Smooth over the shoulders with a comfortable taper into the waist. The grip around the bicep with the smaller size was a little snug but not to the point of restriction. The collar is knitted with a soft collar band holding it up.
While this all sounds very nice, the question remains: what’s pushing the price that much higher than some of the other brands? The key factor is the A&S polo is fully-fashioned like a piece of knitwear – a process which takes substantially more time than standard cutting and sewing. The benefits of this more laborious (and expensive) process are neater, lighter and more comfortable seams (which don’t have to be over-locked to prevent fraying), a better fit and less wastage in the manufacturing process.
Other options: Fedeli stock two pique models: North (€175) and Wind (€200). The former is their classic piece-dyed model and the latter is a lighter-weight update with a ribbed collar and shallower vents in the hem.
I’d wager that most PS readers have at one time or another had a Ralph Lauren mesh polo shirt (or at least a ‘Rolph Lauren’ picked up on holiday at one of their 100% authorised back-alley market stalls). And whilst they remain incredibly popular – priced between £95 and £155, available in four fits (Original, Classic, Custom Slim and Slim) and 30-plus colours – I wanted to take a look at the luxury Purple Label version for the PS reader.
The first thing you’ll notice is the logo; it’s bigger and, shorn of the ball-thwacking dynamism of the classic, looks a little sad – like the polo player is trudging off the pitch with a French baguette lodged under his armpit.
As you’d expect it’s the detailing that separates the Purple Label version from the Polo. While the Polo versions are made in China, the Purple Label polos are made in Italy and finished with mother of pearl buttons. The vents are taped inside for extra strength. The fit (Custom Slim) is slimmer than the Classic mesh polo but not as tight as the Slim version.
The shirts are made from Pima cotton (which is an extra-long staple cotton) that has been double-mercerised. This gives it a smoother and shinier appearance, that is a bit of a double-edged sword – on the one hand the polos have a silkier, more dressy appeal than others on this list but, on the other, I found it lends a faint whiff of “football shirt” to them.
I also found that the fabric, whilst smooth to the hand, did itch very slightly on my shoulders, but perhaps this would be resolved with a wash (of the shirt not me).
Other options: You might want to take a look at Hugo Boss who have a decent selection (£89 to £189). Note that some of the designs are questionable – the polos with the word ‘BOSS’ taped onto the shoulders look like something David Brent would wear to the company picnic.
Whilst personally I wouldn’t be able to (or necessarily want to) spend £680 on a polo shirt, I was fascinated to see what one looked and felt like. For the sake of the readers of course. And, I have to say, being able to spend thirty minutes in the stunning Brioni store housed in a listed four-storey Georgian building in Mayfair was almost worth the price of the garment alone!
Beyond retail costs, there are two things that push the price of the Brioni up: composition and construction. The polo shirts are composed of 100% Sea Island cotton which is an extra-long, extra-fine and extra-rare cotton (estimated to make up only 0.0004% of the world’s cotton supplies) grown in the Caribbean. The polo is hand-made in Italy with mother of pearl buttons.
If the art of summer dressing is about preventing the simple from becoming the bland then pairing a richly textured polo like this (in a colour like the dusty pink above) with a pair of high-twist trousers and soft loafers would be an elegant way to step out on a hot summer’s night.
The polo fits large to size and has a generous shirt collar which, whilst not as reinforced as the Orlebar Brown or Armoury collars, would work ok with a tailored jacket with occasional readjustment. The only detail that didn’t appeal to me was the unnecessary inclusion of a fine, grey contrast stitch on the hem, sleeves and placket.
Other options: Another Sea Island polo with ribbed sleeve cuffs and hem is the Roth from John Smedley (£155) which is fully fashioned - essentially a piqué version of their Adrian model featured on PS previously.
The Index
The index is designed to collect the key information of each of the polo shirts. To aid comparison we’ve shown the chest and body length measurements for a size medium (or equivalent) - measurements taken from the brands. Prices are correct as of time of writing.
Brand | Model (size) | Price | Collar | Buttons | Chest (cm) | Length (cm) | Notable details |
Trunk Clothiers | Moxon (M) | £75 | Soft collar | Three | 50 | 71 | Trimmer fit than all models except Orlebar Brown |
Rubato | Tennis Shirt (M) | 1000 SEK | Two-piece collar | Two | 55 | 71 | Large chest pocket and tennis tails |
Lacoste
|
Classic fit (M) | £89 | Ribbed | Two | 52 | 72 | Array of colour options |
Luca Faloni | Short sleeve piqué polo (M) | £105 | Ribbed | Two | 53.5 | 70.5 | Subtle piqué texture |
Sunspel | Riviera (M) | £115 | Soft collar | Two | 51.5 | 72 | Chest pocket and gauzy style |
Orlebar Brown | Sebastian (M) | £125 | Two-piece collar | Three | 47 | 73 | Slim fit and deep placket |
The Armoury | Short sleeve polo (M) | $250 | Full collar band and interlining | Two | 53 | 75 | Structured collar and longer length |
Anderson & Sheppard | Soft cotton polo (M) | £245 | Soft collar | Three | 53 | 70 | Fully fashioned |
Ralph Lauren | Purple Label – Custom Slim fit (M) | £300 | Ribbed | Three | 53 | 73 | Double mercerised cotton |
Brioni | Sea Island cotton polo (40) | £680 | Shirt collar | Three | 54 | 72.5 | Sea Island cotton, plush texture and hand-tailored |
Manish is @the_daily_mirror on Instagram
Hi Simon, would have added The Anthology ones as an option. Good under a jacket, while keeping an tiny vintage feel (not tight and sleeves a bit longer for example, not stopping mid-biceps or even higher), as the Rubato ones do.
Hi Gab,
We deliberately didn’t include that one because it is more a piece of knitwear.
It’s fully fashioned, like a knit, and unlike say the A&S one, feels much more like a cotton knit as well – it’s not a cotton pique and doesn’t feel like one either, so we didn’t feel it belonged in this list.
It would probably be better in a separate article, alongside similar knits like those from Colhay’s, the non-pique Smedleys, and the PS ones.
Hope that makes sense
Cheers
It does. Thanks Simon.
Research shots incoming…
Trunk (M)
Hi Manish,
The research shots really add value to the already informative article.
The Trunk polo (nice collar) is a real find at this price point – thanks.
This is def my favorite shirt of the bunch. ID on chinos?
Hi Kyle
They’re 1950s Army chinos from Broadway and Sons.
Cheers,
Manish
Anderson & Sheppard (S)
Anderson & Sheppard (M)
Sunspel (M)
This one is by far my favourite ?
In my experience the Sunspel Riviera is vastly inferior to their standard pique. The Riviera loses shape with washing and blouses out like a skirt. It’s also too short (I’m 5’10” and take a large, i.e. I’m not terribly tall for my width), if you’re tall it will barely cover your belly button. The tiny chest pocket is a pointless affectation. Their standard pique holds its shape, which is longer and slimmer, IMHO far more flattering, and is much higher quality piece. I second the recommendation for Kent Wang’s polos though.
Orlebar Brown (M)
Ralph Lauren (M)
Brioni (S)
Brioni (M)
John Smedley (M)
Lacoste (M)
Luca Faloni (M)
Surprised you have not included Luca Avitabile’s fabulous shirts. Also Natalino whose polo from a few years back is easily the one I wear most, with it having a brilliant cut and fit. Personally I wouldnt wear a short sleeve version under a jacket given the avalibity of long sleeves, which to me seems both more versatile and smarter.
We’re only doing short sleeves, Darryl. Again, otherwise we would have included the PS Friday Polo.
These categories have to be kept pretty narrow, otherwise the guides balloon into something even more than the 4000 words they already are!
Manish’s exhaustive guides are a great addition to the PS stable; I’m particularly appreciative of his drawing attention to the Warehouse/Yusuke Hanai polos. Hope you don’t mind, but it appears there may be some text missing in the write-up for the Sunspel polo – see the line below:
“The Riviera does have a soft tailored collar, but it is a – certainly when compared to The Armoury or Rubato models featured – which, in my view, makes it less elegant.”
Should there be something after “but it is a” and before the em dash?
Thanks Alex – yes we just caught that and have corrected.
I’m surprised that you have not reviewed Sunspel’s classic pique polo shirt which is made from supima cotton. It has a roomier cut like FredPerry’s heavier M12. The fabric is now lighter than the previous version and you won’t have the hair mesh problem. Like other Sunspel products, the pique’s price has risen by around a third over the last 2-3 years to £115.
Really nice overview. I have an Orlebar Brown polo that I bought because I liked the terrycloth so much. I ended up rarely wearing it because of the very slim fit.
My sunspel James Bond ones are depressingly flimsy, and the colour on the navy one fades to a kind of brownish tinge.
I’ve enjoyed Fedeli from Trunk and Merchant Fox
Sunspel moved the production of its polo shirts from Turkey to Portugal a few years ago. It’s possible that the Riviera’s quality, like the piques, has improved since the move. You should certainly get a better product for £115. Have you bought one recently? If so, I’d welcome your comments.
My experience with the Sunspel Riviera was unfavorable too – after only a few cold washes it had shrunk in the length to the point that it was unwearable and was already losing a lot of colour. This was some time ago, so perhaps things have improved since then. I had a similar experience with a Fred Perry polo losing length. No problem with the Smedley Roth model.
Completely agree with this, Sunspel start well but wear terribly, seems a bit at odds with this websites ethos as they just don’t wash well
As I mentioned in a post above, Sunspel’s standard pique pole is streets ahead of their Riviera in terms of quality – strongly recommend you don’t write them off based upon experience with the Riviera. Their standard pique is my favourite polo while I’ve relegated my Rivieras to gardening and walking the dog.
+1 for “streets ahead.”
Hi all
I just wanted to come back on the Riviera v Pique points if that’s ok.
As Simon has mentioned above we try to keep the scope of each guide fairly narrow otherwise. However, within those confines, I do try to offer some variety for the reader when I can.
In the case of Sunspel, I wanted to focus on the Riviera because of the slightly unusual cloth. Interestingly, Q75 was developed by the grandson of Sunspel’s founder, Peter Hill, who found traditional pique cotton polos to be too hot and uncomfortable. He wanted something that was much more lightweight but (based on some of the comments below) perhaps that doesn’t hold up as well to repeated wears/washes.
Thanks to everyone for commenting on their experiences. It helps make these guides a great resource for future readers.
Cheers,
Manish
Hi,
i would definitely add GRP, Drumohr and Zanone to this list. All extremely high-quality and classy.
Cheers
Thanks Ola – if you have more information and opinions on them, that would be helpful to others. Such as price, fit, collar etc as included here. Or at least your opinions on which you liked most and why
Hi,
Absolutely – GRP is a Tuscan company that only makes knitwear in merino, alpaca, mako cotton. Established in 1973 they are usually a bit cheeky in their polo shirt design i.e sleeves (attached photo) and hem.
Drumohr have been around since 1770 originating in Scotland, now moved to Italy. They have everything in polo shirts from buttoned with “ordinary weaves” to non-buttoned in fine merino wool weaves.
Zanone is part of the Slowear group and makes their polo shirts in their own Ice Cotton yarn – very cool and crisp weave that is perfect on sunny days.
Thanks Ola, very useful. If you feel like it, most of us will be familiar with the companies and where they’re from, but it’s great to know things you will only know from wearing them, like how the fit works or how the material wears over time.
Cheers
Second Ola’s recommendation for the Zanone polo from Slowear. May I also add James Perse’s Supima polos to the list. The fabric works for me as I sweat quite a bit. Can a long-sleeve version of polos also qualify as a polo shirt?
It’s a pretty broad term, so I think so, though we’re deliberately not including them in this piece
Thanks so much, BB.
I did look into Janes Perse as I’d heard great things but it looked to me like all their polos were cotton jersey and not piqué. Please shout if they do piqués though.
Cheers!
“Ice Cotton”? A gimmick. $300+? No, just no!
Joel, would you mind not making such simplistic comments? We try to stay away from them on PS as they’re not really helpful or interesting.
Hi Manish. Thank you for the article. I like wearing my Lacoste Polo Shirts in summers with khaki colour chino trousers and I myself can vouch for the comfort, fit and quality of these Polo Shirts. I usually prefer wearing a size s in slim fit as the same size in a classic fit is a tad more boxy fit for me. These Polo Shirts are made in India and I’ve never owned or tried theirs made in France Polo Shirts, I assume it’s better make and quality. And you’re right on the array of colours they’re available in. I own some in blue/ light-blue/ navy, navy-stripes and white colours. I find them very useful in Indian summers where it gets hot and humid around 30-35 degrees celsius.
My Lacoste Polo Shirts in pique cotton in different colour options ( Beige, Blue, Light Blue, Navy, Navy/White stripes & Red/Navy stripes ).
https://youtube.com/shorts/GcSWWe5-XEk?feature=share
The best pique polo I ever owned was a vintage black Lacoste I picked up for £20 in Greenwich. I really regret (a) recycling it even though it ended up full of holes from regular wear and (b) not also buying the navy Lacoste the shop also had in stock. I’ve tried new Lacoste polos but they just aren’t the same.
I still wear a few Fred Perrys but more knitted polos from their Italian made Reissues connection. Used to be a big fan of the M12 but I’ll leave it to younger men these days! I also picked up a few Rivieras in Sunspel’s sale but waiting for warmer weather to break them in.
The newer Lacostes feel like a looser weave, less flattering fit and a much bigger placket btw.
The M12 is still fine or playing sports or wearing with jeans and chinos. It is very good value for a polo that is made in England. The brand’s association with Mods and street culture does not bother me. Cording’s offered a plain version of the M12 was available in a wide range colours. It was considerably cheaper (a great bargain the sales) and made in the same factory. They have not been been available for a couple of years now but could return in the future.
Yeah, I enjoy the mod & tennis association and wore out several M12s over the years, I just find plain polos without the contrast tipping a bit more versatile these days. I’ll keep an eye out for the Cordings ones!
Beautiful product but with complicated maintenance. To avoid to step up of three sizes after each wash they should dry horizontally. And this would be the case also for high quality polos. And once they are dty they should be ironed on the reverse side.
No tennis action shots Manish? The guide will save me a huge amount of frustration…
Sleeve length is really varied. The Rubato polo is just what I’m looking for.
Good morning…polos should be a part of every guy’s wardrobe for the coming summer months…how much you pay is up to you…..how many do you need??? Let’s go for 5 -7…you. can’t go wrong with that total….gentlemen it’s Monday enjoy your week…peace
Just adding my view here given I’m a very long-time reader that hardly ever comments, plus I live in a hot climate now (Singapore) so wear polo shirts almost every day.
The Orlebar Brown ones are great, but I run and cycle a lot so the slim fit doesn’t cause me any issues – although I do take an M whereas I would be an S in most other brands. As you note, they are a very robust cotton so they hold up very well to travel and general day to day wear. They also last forever – I have some that must be close to 6 years old, have been worn at least 25-30 times per year and are still just about holding up ok. One point you didn’t note is that they are quite long – I’m 6’1 and they are doing enough that they could be tucked in if you needed to throw a jacket over one in a hurry.
The Luca Faloni ones look nice initially although are quite roomy in my opinion but the biggest issue is that they wear out very quickly. Whilst the OB ones withstand constant washing and wearing, after about 10 uses my Luca Faloni ones looked quite ‘flat’ in colour (especially the navy) and had also had a lot of shrinkage (and I’m fairly sure my maid didn’t accidentally tumble dry).
Another great Manish guide.
Interesting to see that Trunk also offers a buy three and get the third half price deal.
Hi Manish,
This is the best guest article on PS by the proverbial ‘country mile’. Comprehensive, quite exhaustive and informative with just the right touch of humour. You have real talent for well observed similes! “…a faint whiff of ‘football shirt’” told me all I needed to know!
I found it both useful and a good read (you really should do it for a living!).
My personal favourite has long been Lacoste. I find the classic fit, but sized down provides a slightly shorter length that looks, in my opinion, good untucked – as I usually wear them. Also they match the button to the cloth colour which I prefer. But recommend staying away from the ‘special editions’ not sure who buys them as they usually end up in the sale, which I find often happens with other brands as well. Talking of sales outside of the standard, navy , black, white, a nice Lacoste alternative colours can be picked up at a reduction a couple of times a year
I think the addition of Tommy Hilfinger and / or Gant to the alternatives may have been useful, but you do have to stop somewhere.
Purely out of anecdotal experience- I once picked up a job lot of greatly reduced Gap polo shirts for gardening and the like. I have to say after many years of wear they have stood the test of time and have acquired a vintage look so much so I sometimes wear them for not working in the garden!!
Once again thanks for the articles (and all the work you put into them) and long may they continue- e.g. perhaps one on Rugby shirts at some point
All the best.
As a perennial rugby shirt wearer,I would certainly agree. They have, in my opinion, the best collar to wear under a crew neck.
Yes, rugby shirts are a great polo-alternative in the colder months and as you might expect, they’re virtually indestructible!
Photos for the polo shirts I recommended.
Zanone Ice Cotton
Drumohr without buttons.
Excellent article, I’d just comment that “you might want to stick to darker colours or polos with a tighter knit” should be reversed for hirsute gents of a certain age – I increasingly go for white and shades of grey to the same end…
Hi Andy,
You’re of course right here! To be fair, I probably need some kind of light/dark melange colourway to hide my greying chest!
Cheers,
Manish
Hi Manish,
Great write up. Any thoughts on how the Fedeli fit? I quite like their polos but would have to order online as no retailers carry them in Toronto.
Hi Dr Bruno
Thank you so much 🙂
I’m afraid I didn’t get a chance to try the Fedeli (but someone has noted below they’re quite slim).
There’s not much information on Fedeli’s website but the Merchant Fox still stock a few: https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/collections/fedeli-polo-shirts/products/fedeli-classic-short-sleeve-knitted-pique-polo-shirt-riviera-blue
And their sizing looks to be 52cm in the chest which is slim but not extraordinarily so compared to the polos in the index.
Thanks!
Fedeli has one in (organic) Giza 45 cotton
Pretty slim I would say, mainly in the body
Hi Tom
Thanks! I think the short sleeve Giza cotton polos are only available in Jersey not Pique. They do look nice though.
Cheers,
Manish
If I may throw in another contender: my favorite pique polo shirts by far come from Sid Mashburn. They have a very flattering three-button placket, a cut-and-sew collar, and a long tennis tail that can easily be tucked in (and stay in place). They’re made in South America, and priced below $100.
Great recommendation Eric – I just got one and am very happy with it, particularly the collar and the length.
Unfortunately it looks like Sid Mashburn don’t ship internationally (I’m in the U.K.) – I ordered through Mr Porter
Thanks Manish, one thing you could have added is the sleeve length on these. Personally I prefer polos with longer short sleeves as I find them more flattering. Also, no fit photo for Rubato?
Hi Zo,
No, I didn’t get a chance to try on the Rubato.
Cheers!
Also, if I may, I have polos from Cifonelli RTW, Rubinacci, Thom Sweeney and Massimo Alba.
The C and R ones both have tall, one-piece collars and sit beautifully under jackets. Mostly worn tucked in. R ones are always available on Mr Porter.
TS one is pique-ish, fully fashioned, regular fit, with ribbed sleeves and bottom, designed to be worn untucked. Flat, wide collar. I think this may have been a seasonal product.
MA ones are also regularly available on Mr Porter too. Slightly outside the scope here, they are 100% linen and relaxed fit with a deep placket, sturdy (not tall) collar and relaxed sleeves. They’re easily my favourite as the drapes makes them look good tailored trousers, slime jeans as well relaxed drawstring trousers.
Thanks Zo, this is really helpful!
For other readers, most of these can be found using the link in the Intro to the article
Excellent guide. I haven’t worn a polo in a few years now and I miss wearing them. When so many other fashion blogs that I consider reading are so heavily skewed to an American market having options available in Britain is great. The index is really good for comparing some details at a glance too.
I noticed you mentioned Kent Wang, I’ve heard some good things about them, although I typically wear size L and seeing my chest size as size XXL makes me wonder how the rest of it would fit!
I typically wear size L, Kent Wang’s XL fits me fairly snugly but not overly tight.
Excellent guide, you are really finding your form on writing these Manish. Got me interested in one of the Rubato polos, but they are sold out in my size. Probably better for my wallet…
Thoroughly enjoyable and informative articles, this. Although not so healthy for my wallet.
Did Drakes not make the cut? They always seem to have a good selection of polos.
Thank you so much, Darren.
I did check in on them but I don’t think they have any piqué polos out just yet. I suspect it’s just a matter of time and I’ve liked the ones I’ve seen in previous years.
Hi. Really great article Manish. Hilarious. Enjoyed it a lot. My question is on whether it’s is expected that a good stretch over a nice summer lunch should have your polo shirt riding up to show tummy hair, etc. I notice your versions are well secured in high rise trousers. Any views? Is this a sign of a badly made polo? Happens with most of mine and I think the tummy is under control (most of the time).
Hi Zeke
Thank you so much!
It sounds like they’ve just been designed to always be worn untucked and so are shorter than nearly all the polos here (i.e. less than 70cm in length).
My usual high rise trousers would help but, even if I was wearing mid rise trousers, I’d expect a polo to give sufficient belly coverage for all but the most extreme of stretches.
Sounds like a great lunch though 🙂
Cheers,
Manish
In the peak prep era I got a half dozen Lacoste vintage fit polos that wore beautifully. For the past five summers they’ve remained in deep storage because of how thoroughly uncool the style has become. Perhaps this article changes the tide.
For functional well made and designed short sleeve knitwear it’s hard to beat the Sunspel Riviera Polo. I own several colors and have been extremely pleased with how the garment fits and holds its shape and color.
Thank you for an informative article, Manish. I would like to share my experience with the Sunspel riviera polo. I use them while playing tennis, which I do 2-3 times per week, and find them supremely comfortable because of the airy weave. A perfect option for everybody who prefers to play in cottons rather than synthetics. I have several colours and the only fault I’ve found is fading of the navy coloured shirt, but this was not really unexpected as navy, in my experience, fades more (or at least worse) than other colours in general and especially for cottons.
During the hot, lockdown, summer of 2020 I tried several polo shirt options for zoom appropriate WFH wear. My observation was that some of those which looked great on first wear didn’t look so good after a few washes. Sunspel faded. John Smedley lost shape*. Luca Faloni was good but personally I found them to be too short. Trunk was excellent: great cut, great value and they washed well.
*Not pique and I didn’t religiously follow the washing instructions. But life is too short to not be able to put a polo shirt in with the regular wash.
Thanks Dominic, nice feedback.
It sounds like it’s worth you avoiding fashioned knits like the Smedley ones then
I like Yeossal’s polo as well. nice dry fabric, MOP buttons and crow stitch. The main appeal is the large one piece ‘swallow’ collar which is a shirt type collar in construction. Collaro makes mto polos in the other collar styles as well
Thanks Jason
Manish is good at this. Funny and clever without compromising thoroughness.
Another excellent article, thanks. I haven’t worn polos in earnest for some time – I think because I have struggled to find something sufficiently “pique-y” (rather than shiny), but well made without being overpriced designer nonsense. In the past I had a number of PRL ones and liked the custom fit as I am slim and hate baggy polos; but they end up a bit starchy after a while and the collars curl. Polos always used to fall into two categories for me – chuck on to go down to the pool, or smarter to sit at the bar; but both had to fit well and be decent quality. I always hoped that the Sunspel Riviera would bridge both functions, but I found the quality terrible – within two washes the colour had drained out of them, they’d gone all baggy and there had been some awful reaction between dye and deodorant leaving terrible marks. Literally in the bin after two washes. I’ve never bought anything from Sunspel again. I slowly moved towards shorter cotton/linen blend shirts, but now as summer approaches I’m intrigued by polos again – perhaps the Trunk for pool use and the Smedley Roth for smarter – I like their fit and quality.
Pity that.. I have had a few Riviera Polos for a good few years and they have proved excellent (that being said they are not at all my favourite style so I wont be buying more). I also have the Trunk and Smedleys which perform great but my ‘go to’ remain as always Lacoste.
As a budget option I have some polos from Spier and MacKay. They come in a spread or button down collar and are not flimsy. I wear the slim fit which is quite good. I haven’t found them getting baggy but then I don’t wear them as often as I wear T-shirts in the summer.
Very useful guide – thank you. Interesting reflections from readers too. I am fond of the Sunspel Riviera. The fit is great and the fabric distinctive and comfortable. I have found them to be resilient despite the light weight (I haven’t noticed much colour fading, but don’t have a navy version). But I agree with Manish about the fairly meagre collar. The collar on the Orlebar Brown Sebastian is indeed a fine specimen, but also concur that the rest of the Sebastian is too slim and the details bordering on the naff. Slightly off-pique-topic, but the John Smedley Adrian knitted version advocated previously also seems to suffer a little from a too-small, too-flimsy collar that lets down an otherwise terrific item. The perfect pique polo still seems to be a little elusive. Of the research photos, the outstanding one, I think, in terms of fit and overall look is the Trunk Moxon. Thanks again.
I personally do not understand the appeal of this specific kind of short-sleeved-polo shirt with its soft and low collar. My personal connotations are such that this polo looks very conservative and “un-cool” most of the time. Moreover I don’t think the collar is flattering. Personally I prefer a good t-shirt with casual clothing. And as soon as I am wearing a jacket I will always be longing for a solid collar that stands up proudly. Also in combination with a summery jacket (like pictured in the article) the weak collar just doesn’t work for me. (No criticism of the article at all, of course. Just my personal take on the style itself. By the way: I really enjoy that PS also covers a lot of casual items such as t-shirts, jeans etc. Doing casual clothing intelligently and with style has become a real joy for me lately. Thank you!)
Huge omission is the basic Hermès polo shirt. Tried them all and these are far the best
Interesting, thanks Hilary.
We can’t include everything, obviously, so great to have these other suggestions. If you have any more reflections to add (eg on value) they would be appreciated
Of course expensive but they have lasted more than 10 days so far
10 day usage: an incredibly low bar for both durability assessment and reviewer credibility.
Personally,I am a little sceptical about the quality,style,price and fit of well known branded polos which is why I would never buy them online but always in person.Several years ago I was in a cheap, out of town retail outlet and discovered some mid grey polos in a mid weight knit.They were only £5 each so I purchased several in a small size to give a slimmish fit.They are my favourite short sleeved polos.I love their colour and texture and look great hanging loose over a pair of ecru jeans or chinos.The collar does curl a little but I can live with it.
Thanks, Manish. Great and useful article. Simon, what is your preferred polo out of these?
My favourite is the Armoury ones. They’re under a knit or jacket, and yet in a larger size I’d happily play tennis in them as well.
I’ve also had some for almost 10 years and they’ve aged well. Not the cheapest here though.
And to be worn untucked, and not for tennis (for the summer days)?
No, I don’t wear pique polo shirts like that. I prefer knitted ones
Hi Manish,
Congrats on great article and well researched.
Just thought I’d add my experience with pique cotton polos having had some from several brands and styles, including Lacoste and Polo Ralph Lauren. Interesting to hear that Lacoste is favourite of some readers. Of all the ones I’ve tried, Lacoste has been the absolute worst for shrinkage having tried and tested several of their polos. I am quite meticulous with washing; observing the temperature, spin, drying etc but to my dismay I’ve found no difference in the outcome with Lacoste. I now avoid this brand, even though I do like their colours. I, like you, am also a 38 and Medium fit. One seasonal multi-coloured Lacoste polo must have shrunk so much it was at least two sizes smaller. My wife now wears it!
I’ve come to the conclusion that most pique cotton polo shirts will shrink a little – some more than others. I now always buy a little larger or a relaxed/classic fit knowing that some shrinkage will probably occur.
Great post Manfred, as always! A few additional options stateside that are comparable are from Kent Wang and Sid Mashburn…..I’d say they would be comparable to the Trunk option. Kent Wang ($75usd) features collar band and two layers of self fabric with mother of pearl buttons. The fit is SLIM, so sizing up is advised, for sure. All the same for the Sid Mashburn ($95usd) option, but with the addition of a tennis-tail which is nice to stay tucked. Fit is a bit roomier.
Sorry, Manish….my autocorrect got the better of me!
Hi Brad,
No worries at all! Manfred was actually my “German name” at school when I studied the language so it was nice to hear it again 🙂
Thanks for your comments on US polos too – it’s really helpful.
Cheers,
Manish
Great review, as usual. I’m also compelled to add another maker to the mix: Niccolo-p. At my age, it takes a lot to be impressed (and am skeptical when the founder’s lore suggests some sort of reinvention), but I’m now a loyal fan. The quality of cotton, fit, construction, and the unique way the collar won’t bacon under a tailored jacket are outstanding. (The cut is somewhat slim, so my preference is to order a size up.)
Hi Ignatius
Thank yo so much. I did come across them in my research (and they have a very helpful guide to their polos on their site) so it’s great to hear from someone that has worn them.
Cheers,
Manish
I am disappointed with Lacoste polos. I bought a bunch in my late teen years about 89/90 and they were all made in France. I wore them for 10 years and then played tennis in them for another 15 years every week. Washed 500 times but still didnt want to fall apart. While the bunch i both around 2008 are all long gone. After 3 years of wear they were not even good enough for playing tennis.
I was fascinated by this article. Some observations:
the Trunk polo I ordered few years back was far too short. And I am a short guy, so go figure. Have they lengthened it? If so they may be great value in their sale.
I have an Armoury polo but the material is not as soft as expected. At first some irritation but improved after washing. The construction and fit and look are superb. That collar construction really makes a difference to the whole look.
The softest polo – and also great fit – was Armani Collezione from years back.
Hi
I’m not sure about how the length stacks up against previous years but the Trunk polo isn’t especially short when compared to the other polos in the guide. And when I tried it on it felt like a decent length to me.
Hope that helps,
Manish
Excellent and helpful article. It’s mentioned briefly, but what are the thoughts about to tuck in, or not to tuck in? My children tell me tucked in just screams ‘Old Dad.’ Which I am, I guess. Simon’s photos look as if he doesn’t tuck in, but places the bottom of his polo so it almost looks as if it is. Less tall people can’t really do this though.
I think this deserves a full article Jamie, but just in regards to how I wear them, I think my you’re referring to my knitted ones, which are rather different to the pique ones listed here.
They have ribbing at the bottom, like a sweater, so they will sit on the waistband without being tucked in. You don’t really need to tuck those as they won’t hang loose if you don’t.
Hi Simon / Manish,
What are your thoughts on pique cotton shirts (rather than polo shirts) as part of a casual wardrobe and where to find them? I have seen some nice ones in Connolly but they feel pretty expensive for what they are.
Those Connolly ones are lovely, but yes expensive. I like the Fedeli ones too at Trunk, but with all of them, I only wear them casually (without a jacket). The collar’s pretty small to wear with one
Hi AG
I like Stoffa’s version a lot. High collar band and quite a large collar shape. They do shrink a little though.
Cheers,
Manish
I bought 6 white Kent Wang for work. They have been used daily over the last 5 years – washed with other whites, tumble dried occasionally. Never lost shape. Only slight dulling of the white in their 6th year. Proper stand up collar.
Son of a Tailor – made to measure at a reasonable price
Surprised not to see John Smedley listed – Sea Island cotton, UK made and a range of classic styles.
It is mentioned Andy, but most of their knits are not pique – they are fashioned jersey, like a sweater
Hi Simon
I have all my shirts, including polos, made remotely from propercloth.com in New York (they’re produced in Vietnam.)
This company got my measurements spot on first time (you don’t have to pay for the first shirt if there are mistakes – they will be corrected in the replacement).
They have a large range of fabrics and styles with prices starting under $A100.
I have used one of their many collar options – a soft Milano cutaway, which is usually found on a more formal shirt – on my polos and they look fantastic, unique in fact.
It’s not too aggressive in its spread, although you can select pretty much anything. It can be lined, unlined etc.
The collar seems to take the polo, with its usual floppy affair, to a new level of formality and looks especially good under a jacket.
While I’m here, might I menion DL1961 jeans (also from New York). These are as comfortable as sweatpants almost, soft, stretchy and with a number of styles, many in shades of navy, without contrasting jeans-style stitching, which makes them a lot more versatile.
Rob Grant
Thank you Rob, that is good to hear and adds to the discussion.
The jeans sound like they’re not my style, given I dislike any stretch in jeans and indeed tonal stitching. Neither are what a jean should be, for me. But I’m sure that too will be useful for a reader or two.
I’d have enjoyed the inclusion of a heavyweight pique within the selection.
They are a favourite of mine and have the benefit of being cool enough for a hot day whilst still holding their own when the sun goes in.
Sure, they are more at the casual end of the scale and the fabric is naturally less ‘refined’ that some of the polo shirts shown. But they have a role to play.
I’m currently struggling to find any well constructed examples of a heavy pique so would welcome any reader recommendations…
Thanks Nick. What heavyweight piques have you tried then, if you like how they wear?
Not sure if this is Manish’s first piece on PS after his interview, but I’m really happy to see him contributing. He just comes across as such a gem of a human.
And it was a great article as well 🙂
Thanks!!!
Manish has done a few actually Aaron – on shetland sweaters here and here, and on unstructured jackets here
Hi Aaron,
Thank you so much! That is such a kind thing to say and I really appreciate it 🙂
Delighted that you enjoyed the piece and I hope you find something you like in the other articles.
Have a great weekend!
Manish
Hi Simon, I’ve got a few from Spier and Mackay and the construction is great – especially at the price point being offered.
Hi Simon, Just a quick question re the buttons and whether you have any preference. Would you always choose a white/pearl button, even for say a Navy Polo, or would you go for a tonal button? (I have just had l/s polos with cutaway collars made to measure).
Appreciate your feedback
I’d usually have white, but tonal on something dark like navy is nice too
Let me add a postscript, having just bought a Trunk Moxon and a Smedley Roth, both in medium, prompted by this article. The Moxon is decent for the money – comparing it to the PRL that everyone will have I’d say the material was a little thinner and it is a lot more snug (at least a couple of inches) across the shoulders than the PRL medium custom fit, and nice and slim through the waist. The collar is nicer as it isn’t ribbed. Overall a good choice for padding down to the pool or breakfasting on the terrace, but the bulkier among us would be advised to size up. The Smedley Roth is a lovely piece – a nod to pique but something you would wear to lunch rather than dossing around the pool. Beautiful made and fitted. Beware though that the ‘indigo’ is a much lighter shade than the navy it appears to be on the website. Thanks again Manish.
No problem at all Dachshund. Thank you for your take as well. I hope you enjoy them!
Berg&Berg just introduced Polos as well. Cannot comment on their quality yet but the pictures look good.
https://bergbergstore.com/products/tage-short-sleeve-polo-shirt-grey
Do you have any information about fabric weights? I wouldn’t call myself fat, but I’m definitely not a model thin twig, and prefer a heavier weight cloth. My favourite polo is one from Musto bought a few years ago, because it’s noticeably heavier than standard RL offerings.
Excellent article, and it seems I’m a bit late to the comments section. I’ve shopped around quite a bit to find the “perfect” polo, and while I haven’t quite got that, my two favourites are Orlebar Brown’s “Sebastian” and Fedeli’s “North”.
OB’s fit is flattering but I can never decide if I think it’s too slim. It takes a certain amount of confidence to wear it, and some days I have that and some days I don’t. Fedeli’s fit, while somewhat slim, is much less so, and so doesn’t show off as much.
Fabric wise, Fedeli’s is fine and feels significantly more luxurious. OB’s is heavier and doesn’t feel noticeable nicer than any number of other far cheaper polos. That said, I find that OB’s drapes better because of the increase weight, and looks better after washing. Although the collars on both seem to be of similar construction, OB’s keeps its shape better, again probably due to the heavier fabric.
I find the detail’s on the Fedelis much nicer. The buttons are mother of pearl and the placket is very nicely done. OB uses plastic buttons which look and feel cheap to me and their placket is far more elegant – it has a giant “X” stitched at the bottom of it which I really quite dislike. OB also has gussets which seem poorly done relative to Fedeli’s, and they add superfluous buttons to the sleeves.
Despite all this, I find myself wearing OB more often as the fit – if you can pull it off – is extremely flattering. My ideal polo would take most of the elements of Fedeli, in a slightly heavier (but still luxurious) fabric, and in a slightly tapered fit, but not as slim as OB.
Another good piece from Manish – in-depth and pulling out the key details. I have a couple of much loved UK made Fred Perry polos, but I prefer to tuck in, and they’re not long enough. The Armoury one looks tempting…
Simon – it would be great to see a similar piece on RTW Oxford button-down shirts, putting Drakes, BB, Gitman, PS, Anglo Italian, etc, etc etc etc, side-by-side. I imagine it’d be relevant to many PS readers? Particularly those for whom not all of these options are as readily available as for others.
True, thanks Jim, we’re not short of suggestions for this column now!
Does anyone know of a resource for a rust polo like the one worn by Yasuto Kamoshita?
Hi Simon and Manish,
If either of you have any experience with the Sunspel Riviera Polo, how would you say it stands after some use and washes? Does it tend to lose shape or fade? I’ve heard some horror stories, particularly about navy, of it becoming discoloured quickly…
Thank you very much,
Alexander
I think readers above in the comments are useful on that Alexander
Any opinion on the Falconeri polo’s or the brand in general?
Hi Simon – I went to the Armoury NYC for the polo shirt (to fit under my blazers) and the collar was too high and the sales folks told me to go to Ascott Chang directly for a bespoke product. I’ve gone through a few back and forths with them and they seem unable to lower the collar in the front (I’ve got a fat face etc.) My dress shirts are almost exclusively done by Turnbull and Asser (which are marvelous by the way), but I was wondering if you knew if any brand makes bespoke polos with collars like this (for under tailoring wear)? Thanks!
Hey Philip,
Do you find polo shirts normally work for you, under a jacket? Just because one of the attractions of the Armoury ones is the height of that collar and most others are lower.
If you don’t, then yes most bespoke shirtmakers will be able to make you a polo shirt like that, certainly Italian ones. Try Simone Abbarchi or Luca Avitabile. It will help a lot if you can show them a design of one you like (so they get the sleeve length and width right etc)
Thanks Simon for the quick response – I had been hoping for the bespoke guys to get the band higher in the back and lower in the front (like my other dress shirts) but they just couldn’t execute. The regular Brooks Brothers type polo shirt collar just doesn’t hack it for many reasons (i.e., they are too low, bunch up, aren’t sized properly etc..). In the interim, I’ve reached out to Turnbull and Asser in NYC (where I get my shirts) and they’ve just put a short sleeve jersey style shirt, with my customized T&A collar, into production. It’s a start but it will cost considerably more that the Ascott Chang offering (at least $450 a pop as opposed to $200-$300). Simone is only in NYC in October and I’ve never worked with Luca. Thanks again and let me take the time to say that your website is engaging, fun and very helpful. Philip
Thanks Philip. If it’s helpful, I would suggest asking T&A to use a pique cotton
Thanks again! We are going to use the Thomas Mason Giro Inglese Mini (in pink) for the test shirt.
The Tennis Shirt seems to have been removed from the Rubato website. Do we know if they’ll return anytime soon?
I don’t know I’m afraid Duck, you’ll need to ask them.
Interesting article. My take is fairly straightforward….
Lacoste. I miss the OLD Lacoste polos. Long tails, excellent construction. I haven’t found them to produce that quality a shirt in a very long time. For a while, Lacoste broadened it’s distribution to include low end mass merchandise stores and the brand went down hill. I lived the ribbed sleeves, but haven’t found the original Lacoste in decades. Sad.
Sunspel. I do own the Rivera and do like it. The color fades and you should plan to replace it periodically, otherwise, it tends to look washed out. I enjoy throwing it on over shorts for a quick outing, but it is not elegant in any way once it has lost its shape.
Orlebar Brown Sebastian. I love this shirt … a great, slim fit polo. I do not tuck this shirt in, preferring to simply wear as is. Expensive but a very nice quality shirt.
I do like the ones from Battistoni, but those are more works of art and have comparable prices.
I second that on LaCoste. I owned a long tailed original in college. Who knew it would all go away. Sure sign of age is lamentation followed by “I remember when….”
Perhaps an interesting question is what we have now that might not be around in 20 years? Stock up or hold onto that…
I’m absolutely hoarding all my old British Wool Mark sweaters and 80s 501s and Fred Perry polos.
Nice
Is The Armoury apparel available in London, particularly those magnificent polo shirts that can be worn under a jacket?
No it isn’t
Luca Faloni also does the Sienna shirt combining the elegance of a shirt with the comfort of a polo.
What is your take on the Sienna shirt?
Looks very similar to a Fedeli, that kind of washed Italian look. Haven’t tried one myself though
Hello Manish,
What a coincidence meeting you in Roma at Sartoria Ripense while wearing a polo I had selected based on your write up.
I hope you enjoyed your stay. I look forward to the Ripense write up.
If ever in Toronto, drop me a note.
Bruno
Excellent article.
What brand polo shirt is Yasuto Kamoshita wearing. Thank you.
I believe it’s his own, Camoshita
Thank you.
What would be the most versatile short sleeve polo colors to have that would go with most outfits? Navy/white/black?
Probably navy and cream – see comments here
Sounds good. What do you think of Rubato’s nonpareil cream polo as far as versatility, color, and ability to look well under a jacket? Does it wear large like some of their knitwear?
Thanks!
https://www.atemporubato.com/en-us/products/nonpareil-polo-in-voile
The cream would be quite versatile yes, nice color and works well under a jacket as regards the collar, though the body is straight and loose, so you’d have to tuck it in under a jacket – in an ideal world you’d have the ribbing on the bottom like some of the knitted T-shirts.
It is a little large, particularly in that straight cut, but a medium was still good for me. It is meant to be quite a relaxed style
That’s in a knitted polo of course – in a more normal pique like this, yes probably white
First off…love the website
Secondly, what brands can you recommend for jersey cotton rather than pique polos? Preferably something in a standard to slimmer fit that is of a good quality and going to last.
Good question Steve, I’d maybe look at the Anderson & Sheppard ones, they’re good in that category
What’s your opinion of James Perse polos ?
I haven’t tried them I’m afraid Bryan
The best reason to wear a polo is to show off your biceps, so tight high sleeves are essential.
Hi Simon and Manish,
Any thoughts or recommendations on short sleeve polos with the S button down collar?
Thanks.
Hmm, no not especially, sorry
Is that collar style considered a bit unconventional on a polo shirt? Would you ever consider one?
Thanks.
It is a little, yes, but I wouldn’t say it’s a big thing: not that showy, just look a little more unusual and preppy. I’d probably always stick with a normal collar though
Hi Manish,
Any thoughts on short sleeve polos with the S button down collar? Would you ever consider one?
Thanks.
If something was particularly nice I’d consider it. But, in general, no – I just prefer something simpler for a mainly casual shirt. Even the PS Friday Polo that started with a button-down collar has done away with it.
Any thoughts on the Anglo-Italian knitted linen-cotton polos? I generally like the relaxed style; not sure how the quality measures up to Rubato or Brycelands knitted polos, however. Thanks in advance.
I don’t think they’re hand-framed, so wouldn’t be on a par with the Rubato ones, and I think the cut is rather different to the Brycelands – straighter and squarer (but also a longer length which is good)
Hi Simon,
If you were starting a collection of polo shirts, would you choose ribbed collars or a shirt-style collar construction?
D
It depends how I would wear them Duke – the difference is mostly that one is a little smarter, can work with tailoring etc.
Have you had any experience with cotton knitted polos and if yes then how did you like it?
Hi Ayush
I have and I liked it very much.
As with other items of clothing, IMO, respectfully I must add, that I seem to see way way too much said about sizing down, slimmer sizes etc….and not enough on sizing up.
There are big guys out there, broad shoulders, large chest , extra tall who cannot avail of these polo shirts…. Lacoste and maybe a mere handful of others being the exception.
Also, other types of apparel. It would be nice to show more inclusivity for larger individuals in these kind of reviews…or indeed any clothing reviews… excellent as they are. It’s rather unfair otherwise.
I am in the market for a polo shirt. Very helpful article. The pictures on the model wearing the two different A & S sizes reassured me of the correct size to buy.