How I wear a black tailored jacket
December 30th 2022This is the first piece of black tailoring that’s been featured on Permanent Style, I think, outside of evening wear. Over the past three years we’ve been exploring how black’s role in the wardrobe can be expanded, beyond tuxedos a...
How I wear a black tailored jacket
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It depends a bit on the texture of the camelhair or cashmere - some cashmeres are more brushed, less smooth and luxurious - but in general yes, it can help...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
December 21st 2022Continuing our recent discussion of jacket replacements - chores, Tebas, safaris and the like - I've shot two of my favourite overshirts in order to talk about different types, and how they can fit into a wardrobe. The buffalo-check shirt above is ...
Overshirts: Two types, ways to wear, where to buy
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In general I think a good guide is that they should fall between halfway down your seat (the largest part) and the bottom of your seat. Between those two points is largely a question of style...
Luxury chore coats compared
December 16th 2022By Manish Puri Not all chores are made equal. Some take longer, some require more exertion, and some involve going out into the cold. On a typical weekend you’ll find me frantically searching for loopholes in the chivalric code so I can cherry...
Luxury chore coats compared
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Hey BC, Yes the Lazyman would work, though I found them a little short. This is an area we covered quite a lot last year - we did a piece here on all the options, and then covered Tebas, chores etc separately. There are ...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
December 9th 2022This is the Mk.1 Games Blazer from Drake’s in russet corduroy. To be honest, I’ve lost track of the numbers and which style each is, but the important thing is that this one's a fairly regular jacket with notched lapels - not the version...
Drake’s corduroy Mk.I Games Blazer: Review
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Sounds nice Nicholas, love to see that some time...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
November 30th 2022I don't think I've ever written about this jacket before, which is odd as I've had it a few years and wear it fairly often. It's the City Hunter 2 from The Armoury - their take on the traditional Spanish Teba jacket. It has the distinctive lapel s...
The Teba as substitute for a tailored jacket
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Collar turned up and it looks like a Nehru jacket or one of those Bavarian/ Alpine jackets that often have either silver or stag horn buttons. In any event, this one you wear here is very nice....
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
November 23rd 2022In recent years, casual alternatives to the tailored jacket have become increasingly popular, and we've talked about a lot of them on PS. However, it's not always clear what's meant by different terms and types, or what their differences in style a...
Overshirt, chore, teba: Defining the new casual j...
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Thanks Nezar, that is interesting and useful...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
November 11th 2022By Tony Sylvester Earlier this year, some readers may remember, I joined Simon and photographer Alex Natt on a jaunt to Paris . I spent the day investigating and chasing ghosts of the cult Parisian brand Arnys, visiting with their old designer Domin...
The Bores jacket from Chato Lufsen: Review
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Yes and yes, cheers Ant...
Reader profile: Shun
October 17th 2022With the PS reader profiles, we’re always looking to add something different - a different style, a different age, hopefully at some point a different location. Although Shun’s love of classic menswear will be shared by many, he is a li...
Reader profile: Shun
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They're good quality and good value, but most of the styles are too chunky for me personally...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
October 5th 2022This Anderson & Sheppard jacket is part of a suit I had made over 10 years ago. When I wrote back in January about my ‘ favourite clothes ever ’, I named it my favourite ever piece of bespoke. It is therefore a good ca...
My Anderson & Sheppard cord suit: How great ...
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Perhaps, yes, for a slightly smarter/sharper look...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
October 3rd 2022Gerardo Cavaliere is someone whose style I've admired for a while, but rarely had a chance to talk to for more than a few moments at an event. While Milad and I were in Rome recently, therefore, I spent some time with Gerardo and his partner Margar...
Sartoria Giuliva and Giuliva Heritage: Inspiratio...
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Yes, absolutely...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
August 29th 2022In our recent articles on menswear destinations in Rome, a couple of readers asked about the outfit I was wearing for beating around the hot city. The individual pieces should be pretty familiar: cotton double-breasted jacket from Ferdinando Carac...
Tailoring for travelling: tough, comfortable, plain
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Probably a size up, you don't want them to be too tight...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
August 22nd 2022By Tony Sylvester From the kilo stores to the more specialised outlets, Paris is a city with an enviable array of vintage menswear options. This spring, Simon filed reports on two of the best. Le Vif in the 16th, with its highly curated focus on Ame...
Chato Lufsen: French vintage and modern recreations
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The Japanese brand Workers is currently doing a Forestiere in brown corduroy. I tried one on and was tempted but decided I'd been buying too many things in brown and corduroy recently....
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
August 3rd 2022Rome doesn’t have the menswear reputation of Milan, Florence or Naples. But there are some unusual little gems nestled in different parts of the city. One of the most interesting is Atelier Bomba. Started by Cristina Bomba in 1980, it has a r...
Atelier Bomba, Rome: Chic handmade tailoring
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No it didn't, it keeps on dropping down the list! if you search for Rome you'll find most of the places, but we do need to do a proper shopping list at some point...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
July 29th 2022How do I feel about orange? This linen looked more like a terracotta red when it was a swatch, but let’s face it, it’s orange. Fortunately I rather like it. Strong colour isn’t normally my thing, but when I do wear it, I prefer the...
Coloured summer jackets: Final Anderson & Sh...
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It's the two-ply high-twist wool from Drapers, in the Ascot bunch. They are the trousers from this suit...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
July 11th 2022The various parts of the front of a bespoke jacket are normally sewn together by hand. This hand 'padding’ attaches the canvas that give the chest its structure, and hand sewing shapes the lapel too. It's often used as a sign of ‘real&r...
Hand padding a bespoke jacket: How it’s done and why
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Thank you for the education....
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
June 27th 2022By André Larnyoh When I first got this Barbour jacket, I remember wondering if it was really me. I was around 19, taking all my inspiration from Pinterest boards and The Ivy Handbook. A waxed motorcycle jacket seemed off the beaten track. But...
My battered Barbour: A rewaxing service to recommend
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Gods, you're making me feel old! I bought the Barbour International 27 years ago in Black before all the awful logos on the outside. It has a leather collar.The advert was very cool, it had a glamorous women wearing one ...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
June 22nd 2022This brown wool/silk/linen jacket was made in a lightweight model that Savile Row tailor Dege & Skinner introduced last year. It has a thin shoulder pad and no chest canvas, unlike their normal tailoring. I can directly compare the differen...
Dege & Skinner lightweight summer jacket: Re...
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I don't think I'd worry on the coolness point, as it is so lightweight, but yes I think you'll find the trousers too flimsy to get long-term wear out of. Sorry, it otherwise sounded like a great plan!...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
June 20th 2022By Tony Sylvester Roughly three years ago I wrote a piece for the Drake’s in-house magazine Common Thread. Given a free rein on any subject I wanted to talk about, I’d started ruminating on the similarities between French and English sty...
Dominique Lelys and Artumes: Taking on the spirit...
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Good morning and a great article...
Reader profile: Cedric
June 17th 2022Cedric works in the art world, and as such is rarely formal. But he retains an interest in tailoring, has childhood memories of going to Huntsman, and is even talking to Fred Nieddu about his first bespoke. He also has a depth of interest in Americ...
Reader profile: Cedric
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I know what you mean Leif. I would say that, at least in my context, it's more swinging towards the seventies when done well, as basically no one does. If the fit and cut are done well, and perhaps there's a little extra...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
June 1st 2022The first fitting is where the craft of bespoke tailoring most reveals itself. Imagine lifting up the point of one shoulder. That shortens that side of the jacket, so it will have to be lengthened. It changes the angle relative to the other shoulde...
Fitting a bespoke jacket – in de Le Cuona s...
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No worries John, nothing is ever too late. The fabric has held up well, but it's never going to be something I wear intensely, so it's not necessarily a fair test. It has given me enough confidence to commission somethin...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
May 18th 2022This jacket from Sartoria Pirozzi doesn’t really need a normal review. The point of it was to cover the tailor again because they are now coming to London frequently, having taken a share of a space in Shepherd Market. And it was to check th...
Pirozzi dupioni-silk jacket: Review
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Hmm, ok, sorry about that. I will ask them about it next time I see them...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
May 16th 2022Morning dress is an area I’ve always found fascinating, but never have occasion to wear myself. I do want to have some guidance on Permanent Style, however - so when Aleks Cvetkovic told me he was having morning dress made for the first time, ...
The guide to morning dress: Part one, style
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I can see I might go to someone with more experience, yes, though I believe Steven would have that. I would certainly ask. I wouldn't necessarily go to a more traditional tailor though, no. I would certainly trust Davide...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
May 11th 2022When I first had a bespoke suit made at Anderson & Sheppard, 12 years ago, the head cutter John Hitchcock made a paper pattern for me. This pattern is one of the fundamentals of what makes bespoke, bespoke. Or rather, it’s the fact th...
The pattern in bespoke tailoring: A new jacket at...
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Interesting, yes they are still put on the bias as far as I know...
This feels like me
May 2nd 2022I get a lot of joy out of wearing this outfit, though I’m not quite sure why. It might be that it’s clearly dressed up – tailored jacket, tailored trousers – but not that stuffy. No tie, and not even a proper shirt, just a po...
This feels like me
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Ecru as a colour would - navy is harder, as we covered here. Chinos as a whole with jackets is a tricky one though. Better with a Drake's style (very unstructured and casual), harder with a more tailored one...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
April 29th 2022A reader commented recently (or rather, berated me) for not keeping my jacket buttoned. I understand the feeling behind this, but I also want to emphasise that just because it usually looks better, it doesn’t mean you have to follow...
The rules and how to break them #11: Always butto...
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I thought it was a "hump"....
